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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
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http://www.archive.org/details/nicaraguapastpreOOstou 



NICARAGUA: 



Past, Present and Future; 



A DESCRIPTION OF 



Its Inhabitants, Customs, Mines, Minerals, Early 

History, Modern Fillibusterism, Proposed 

Inter-Oceanic Canal and 

Manifest Destiny. 



By peter F. ^TOUT, Esq^. 

LATE VICE CONSUL. 



Bella Nicaragua ! El Paraiso de las Indias. 






PHILADELPHIA ! 

John E. Potter, 617 Sansom Street. 
1859. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by '^ 

Peter F. Stout, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in 

and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 
> 

STEREOTYPED BY GEORGE CHARLES, ? < c c. » ■oi.-i a ^ u- 

PRINTED BY KING & BAIRD, [ ^°7 Sansom Street, Philadelphia. 







To THE 

HON. CHAELES F. MAYBE, 

Baltimore, 
My Dear Sir : — 

I discliarge an agreeable duty in dedicating 
this Yolume to yoii, for, believe me, your commenda- 
tions alone have drawn the Manuscript from seclusion. 

May I trust that the hopes now fanned into flame 
may prove other than ashes, and that the work may 
receive the distinction which you have so flatteringly 
, predicted for its future ? 

Yery sincerely, yours, 

PETEE F. STOUT. 

Philadelphia, February 5, 1859. 



PREFACE. 



-«♦»- 



I HAVE written a current History of Mcaragua, a 
Guide Book; and furnished in a succinct form, infor- 
matioU; Geographical, Topographical, and Statistical. 
My residence in the country afforded me great facilities 
for comparing and verifying the authorities consulted, 
and the results of my observations and deductions are 
comprised in the present volume. 

The Past of every Province of the Spanish Americas, 
abounds with interest to the student as well as the 
general reader; and "El Paraiso de Mahoma" has a 

(7) 



8 PREFACE. 

present Mstoric importance^ wliicli renders auglit ortho- 
dox npon tlie country desirable and attractive. 

I have penned my pages with a view solely to merit 
the respect of the Public, having neither varnished nor 
tarnished a subject, at present vital to my own country ; 
and I feel assured, that I have not been led astray by 
the garbled statements of those, whose interests may 
have suffered from causes, which have not exercised, in 
the remotest degree, an atom of influ.ence upon me. 

Petee F. Stout. 

Philadelphia, February, 1859. 



CONTENTS. 



-*♦»- 



CHAPTER I. 

PAOB 
Extent — Geographical Position — ^Volcanoes^Lakes — Managua and Nicaragua — 
Rivers — The Rio San Juan — Trailing "Vines — Alligators — Monkeys — Rapids — The 
Castillo and Machuca — Climate — Temperature — An Incident 17 



CHAPTER II. 

Districts — ^Population — Towns, Population — Granada, its Architecture, Churches, 
Streets, Carts, "Washing and Washer-women — San Carlos, the Commandante'a 
House, the Old Fort, the Castom House — Lake Nicaragua — Rio Frio — La Boqueta 
Islands — Virgin Bay and the adjacent Country — San Miguelito — San Jorge, its 
Parochial Church — Road to Rivas 26 



CHAPTER III. 

Eivas — The Plaza — Market — Senoritas — Early History — Gil Gonzales de Avila — The 
arrival of the Spaniards — Nicaragua — Rodrigo de Contreras — Hernandez — The 
Capture of the Country — Country ahout Rivas — Business — Samoza, the Rebel 
Chief — Hotel and Eating — Church of San Francisco — Bust of "Washington — Henry 
Clay — Price of Land — Stores and Trade — Living, Beef, etc. — Manner of Cooking 
—Stoves— Wood S3 



(9) 



10 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 

PAQB 

Old Statues— The Old Convent— The Parochial— The Body of the Virgin— The 
Padre and the Californian — A Wager — The Kesiilt — La Mercedes — San Juan de 
Dios — The Government House — Hotels and prices of Board — The Cuartel — The 
Troops — The Band — The Music — Funerals — Grave-Yard — Burning Bones — In- 
struments of Music — Dress — Prices of Clothing — Hats — Shoes — Eents of Houses 
—The Good Old Eule 41 

CHAPTER V. 

Eivas — The Homhre — Leoneze — Aztecs — Their Monuments — Between Eivas and 
Granada — Obraje — Gil Gonzales — A Luxury — Snakes — Hints for those going to 
Nicaragua — Boa Coustrictors — Tigres — Tigre Negro — Mountain Cats — Coyote — 
Bats — The Californian's Purchase — The Chamorro Estate — Troops — Muskets — 
Colt's Eevolvers — Enrolling Soldiers— Monopolies — Incident in Managua — A 
Flogging 43 

CHAPTER VI. 

Eio Ochomogo— Old Structure — Adobe Buildings : their Strength — Old Indigo Plan- 
tation — Nandyme — Horseflesh — Prices — Gaits — Horsemanship — Momobacho — Its 
Ascent — Gold Mine — Lake on the Summit — Pruits on the Eoad-Side — Diriomo — 
Old Statue — Landmarks — Corn Estates — Ancient Indigo Plantations — Fields of 
Volcanic Matter — Granada — The Alerte — Musical Analysis — Sympathy — The 
Salve Eegina — The Transparency — Strange Effect — Home and a Hammock 55 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Houses of Nicaragua — Size — Appearance — Adobes — Size — Form — Material — 
Cement — Wells — Water — Money, value of — Trade — Bongoes — National Vessels — 
The Orus and Director Steamers — Manners and Customs — Belfry of La Mercedes 
— The Sharpshooter — His Death — Sandoval's Estate — Indigo Plantation — The 
Lake — Oranges and Mangoes — Corn — Sacate — Pine-apples — Jocotes — A beautiful 
Estate — Cost — Intemperance — Virtues — Cloths — Socks — Sickness — Physic and 
Law 62 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Religious Festivals — St. James' Day — San Ignatius de Loyola — Transit of the Virgin 
— The Corpus — St. Peter and the Holy Keys — Images — Santa Theresa — Cochineal 
Plantations — Mode of Culture and Preparation of it for Market — Coffee — Its Cul- 
tivation — Sugar — Indigo — Amount of Harvest — Tobacco — Amount Eaised — Profits 
— Gunpowder and other Government Monopolies — Articles of Manufacture — 
Artificers in Gold and Silver — Opposite Granada — Cattle Estates — Catching 
Cattle- The Peta-Hiiija— Figs and Olives— A Hint.... 71 



CONTENTS. 11 

CHAPTER IX. 

PAGE 

The Malaccas — Cultivation of the Cacao — Desci-iption of a Cacao Estate — An Ugly- 
Fissure outside Granada — A Shock of an Earthquake — Speculations in case of 
Emergency — Lake Poyo — Delightful Jaunt — A Lake Como — A Cup of Tiste — Its 
Use — Productions of the Country — Cigars — Maize — Aguardiente — Effects of not 
to be mistaken — Wheat — Minerals — Gold, Silver, and Copper Mines of Depilta — 
The Chontales Mining Districts— JLatagalpa — Paynter — The Central States — Their 
Mines — Account of Honduras and San Salvador — Costa Kica — Coal — Want of 
Machinery, Means, and Enterprise 80 



CHAPTER X. 

Beyond Granada — A View — Indian Mother and her Load — The Conquerors— My 
Opinion — Masaya — The Plaza — The Church — Stores and Manufactures — Fine 
Hats, Prices — Hammocks — Provisions — Extent of the Town — Dogs and Buzzards 
— Country beyond the Town — Nindiri — Its Church — Cool Shade — its Oranges — 
Another Pine View — Mai Pais, a road of Lava — Eio Tipitapa and the Lakes — 
Something from Oviedo — An Oasis — A Drink, and a Swing in a Hammock — En- 
trance into Managua — Whom we met — City by Moonlight — Nihapa — Indian 
Temple — A Sell — Difference of Opinions about it — Other Lakes — ^Washer- women 
again — ^Ancient History — Senoritas 96 



CHAPTER XI. 

Managua — Its Inhabitants — Serviles and Liberals — Historical Interludes — Educa- 
tion — The Fathers of Eld — Bigotry — Ecclesiastics — An Ancient Carving — Padre 
Yigil — Keligious Ceremonies — The Indians — Squier's Assertions relative to the 
Mosquito Indians — History again — Ideas about Migration — Antique Stones 
(Piedras Antiguas) — The Confessors of the Conquest 106 



CHAPTER XII. 

Idols — Good Teeth — Cigaritas — Universal Use — A Primitive People — A Clean Breast 
of several Matters — A Visit with the Consul-General of the United States — An 
Interesting Domestic Group — Eecognition of a well-known Voice— rComforts not 
Expected — Country about the City— Fruits — Fields — Cooks — Society — Our Posada 
— Biographical Sketch of Chamorro — Also of Jose Trinidad Munoz — Outside of 
Managua — On our Tour Again — Scouts — New Eoad over the Mountain — Narrow 
Path — An Incident by the Way -side — Glimpses of the Country — Outposts Ahead, 
and our Preparation 116 



12 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

PAGE 

Mateares— Population— Appearance— The House of our Host— Our Exit— Our Pass 
— Lake Managua — A Hot Sun and an Infernal Eoad — A Hut at hand — A Friend 
in Need — A Stream— A Halt— A Bath— Nagarote— A Posada— The Land— Host and 
Hostess— Musquitoes — Attempt to Sleep— Fare — Frijoles, Tortillas, and Aguardi- 
ente— Pleasant Kide, and an Early Start— Beautiful Appearance of the Country — 
X)eer — Eoads — Fields of Maize — Sunrise — Cocoa-nuts — Palms and Calabashes — 
Cane Huts and Trim Gardens — Fine Cactus — Pueblo Nuevo, and a Posada — Our 
Meal— Beyond the Village— Features of the Country— Soil and Timber— The Plain 
of Leon — Ditches — Huts — Nine Volcanoes — Glimpse of the Cathedral — Gaudelupe 
— City in the distance — Evidences of an anticipated Sally on our Entrance — Our 
Posada — Cup of Cacao — Inhabitants — Legacies of the Conquerors — The Troops — 
Dragoons — Eainy Season — Our Host 126 



CHAPTER XIV, 

Historical Interlude— Location of Leon— Euined Houses— The Plain— Suburbs- 
Cane Huts— Pirates in 16S5—Eevolutions— The Cathedral— Its Size, Cost, Descrip- 
tion—The Interior— The Organ— The Great Altar— Portraits— Confessional Chairs 
— Gallery— View from the Eoof— College of St. Eamon— The Episcopal Palace — 
The Cuartel— The Government House— La Merced— Ca>lvario— Eecollection— 
Statues— Subtiaba— Plaza and Cathedral— Altars— Market of Leon— Fruits— Trade 
—Stores and Merchants— The Bishop's Baths— Paraiso de Mahoma— Climate— 
The Bishop — His Carriage — Mr. Squier — A View from the Eoof of San Pedro — 
Baptism of a Volcano— Plain of Leon— Earthquakes— A Visit to General Munoz— 
His Attendants— A Tete-k-tete— A Word or Two— His Eesidence and Family 137 



CHAPTER XV. 

City of Leon— History— Decree of Annexation to the United States— Constitutiou 
Adopted— Abolishment of Papal Bulls, Monasteries— Abridgment of certain Eccle- 
siastical Privileges— The National Flag— The Bishop, Archbishop, and his Holi- 
ness the Pope— Various Wars— General Morazan—Carrera—Malespin— Capture 
of San Juan by the English— Samoza— A Knight— His Eevolution— Capture and 
Death— Death of Muiioz— President Pineda's Summary Eemoval— Walker— A 
Change comes over Nicaragua— Thoughts and Speculations 147 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Leon— Subtiaba— Country— Quesalguaque— The Descent— Fruits— Posultega— Chi 
chigalpa— Population— Country and Fruits— A Pleasant Eide— A Choice Estate— 
Chinandega- Its Commerce and Inhabitants— Old Chinaudega— Bad Eoad to 
Realejo— Eealejo— Its Harbor— Custom House— Depth of Water— Docks and 
Warehouses— Cardon— San Juan del Sur— Location— Size— Harbor Improvements 
—The Papagayas—Brito— Country between San Juan and Virgin Bay— Eoads 



CONTENTS. 13 

PAaE 
in Kaiuy Season — Virgin Bay again — Wharf— Transit Company — Rio Tipitapa — 
Paso Chico — Falls of Ti]iitapa — Depth of tlie River — Rio Grande — Snrface of 
Lalie Managua — Distance from Realejo — Clioutales — Products- — Minerals — Woods 
—Animals — Laud — Streams — Cattle — Advice and Reflections. .v 155 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Greytown — Topography — Extent of Mosquito Territory — Indian Tribes — ^Pope's 
Bull — Spain's Claim and England's, also Nicaragua's — Whose is Valid? — Corona- 
tion of a Mosquito King — His Dress — The Dress of his Chiefs — English Officers — 
The King's dignified manner of expressing himself — Baptism — Supper and Eiuale 
to the Farce — Grant to the Shepherds — Their Title — Conveyance to the Central 
Ajnerican Company — Issuing of Stock — Objects of the Company 166 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Bluefields — The Mosquito King — The Shepherd Grant denied upon various grounds 
— England Plays her Hand — Colonel Kinney — His Trials and Hardships — De- 
nounced as a Fillibuster — His Expedition. — Wrecking of his Vessel — Arrival at 
Greytown — Burning of Greytown prior to his Arrival — Results and Alleged Cause 
— ^President Pierce's Declaration of War — The Muse of History — Colonel Kinney 
Elected Governor — Preamble and Resolutions of the New Government — Consti- 
tution — Officers Elected — The Central American Company at a Discount — Kinney's 
Resignation — His Visit to Granada and expulsion thence — Walker's Empty Boast 
— Sale of the Grant to the Mormons 174 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Inhabitants of the Mosquito Coast — Their Wealth — Climate — Introduction of Reli- 
gion — Their own Belief — Burial of their Dead — Products of the Coast — Turtle — 
Birds — Fish — Animals — Vines — Trees and Woods — Rivers — Exploration of Indian 
Elver by the Golden Club — A Beautiful Country — Magnificent Forests — Black 
River — Gold — Indian River again — Shepherd's Ranche — Grand Falls — Prospect- 
ing for Gold — Success — Droves of Wild Hogs — No Country for Snakes — Captain 
Wilkinson's Party — ^Prospecting again — Rich Results 183 



CHAPTER XX. 

War in the Interior — United States Marshal in a Fix — Arrival of Gen. Walker — 
Battle of Virgin Bay — Defeat of Guardiola — Subsequent Battles — Walker's Trium- 
phant Entry into Granada — Treason and its Punishment — Schlessinger Surprised 
at Guanacaste — Charged with Treachery — His Trial, Condemnation, Flight, and 
Sentence of Death — Battle of Rivas — Walker again Victorious — Inauguration of 

■ Chamorro — A Nine Months' Siege — His Death — Estrada his Successor — Padre 
Vigil's Letter to Mr. Marcy — My Opinion — Henningsen's Glorious Defense of 
Granada — Attack on San Jorge — Gallant Conduct of Capt. Higby — San Jorgo 



14 CONTENTS. 

PAGB 

again — The Cannonade — Sharp Operation of the Costa Ricans — Capture of Castillo 
— English and American Officers — ^What Walker had to Contend with— Evacua- 
tion of the Country— Official Eeport of Walker's Force— The Results of the In- 

va,.'<inn • 19* 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Walker's Contemplated Second Invasion of Nicaragua— Senors Yrisarri and Molina 
—Their Letter to Secretary Cass— What they think Walker will do— What they 
hope the United States will do— Circular of Secretary Cass— Calls on the Officials 
— Expects them to do their Duty — Walker Speaks— Apologises for doing so— 
Claims to he the Lawful Executive of Nicaragua — Does not want any Interference 
from Costa Eica and Guatemala— Denies Violating any Act of Congress— Senor 
Yrisarri again — Wants the American Government to do the Eight Thing — Talks 
Hard about Walker— Says the Fillibusters are nothing but Pirates— Cannot 
Deceive the Central Americans, and wonders at -the Impudence of the Man of 
Destiny 211 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A Promise Pulfilled— General Henningsen's Letter to Secretary Cass — His Commis- 
sion from President Walker— What he says about Walker's Election— His Per- 
manency as a Euler — His Solicitude for the Soldiery— An Appeal to the President 
of the United States— Thinks Captain Davis did not do the Right Thing— What 
President Mora did — What General Walker did — How long the Invaders were 
kept from Investing Rivas — How they attempted at various times to Storm the 
Place — How anxious they eventually became to keep out — Position of Besiegers 
and Besieged on the First of May — What Walker Expected to Do, and How he 
was Going to Do it— What Captain Davis Did, and the Way he Did it— How it 
Affected Walker's Plans— The Schooner Granada seized and handed over to the 
Costa Ricans- The Guatemala Navy puts to Sea and Murders Captain Lilly 222 



CHAPTER XXm. 

Nicaragua Threatens to Suspend the Transit— Her Preamble and Decrees— Lieut. 
Almy applies for Instructions — Supposes a Case in which Fillibusters figure 
Largely — Delicate Points growing out of it— Does not wish to Compromise our 
Government- Secretary Toucy Posts him up — Says he must Prevent Fillibusters 
from Landing— Commodore Paulding heard from— Says Hard Things about 
Walker and his Men — Considers his Reasons quite Sufficient for sending the 
Fillibusters home — Refuses any Co-operation of other Powers — Walker Gives his 
Parole of Honor — Goes Home at his own Expense — Gives himself up to Marshal 
Rynders — Sefior Yrissarri writes to Mr. Cass — Says Nicaragua Confirms the 
Contract with the Transit Company — Thanks the United States for taking Walker 
away — Thinks she did the Handsome Thing — Wants his Letter Published 235 



CONTENTS.. 15 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

PAOH 

Landing of Columbus on the Mosqiiito Shore — Are the Mosquitoes an Independent 
Natiou ? — What Viscount Palmerston says about it — The Clayton and Bulwor 
Treaty — Conflicting Views as to its Construction — The English Charge d'Affaires 
to the Government of Nicaragua — A Eunning Fire of Gasconade — The same 
OflUcial on Boundary Lines — What Bonnycastle says — Treaties of Peace, Bound- 
aries and Commerce between Great Britain and Spain — What an Old English 
Author says — Motion to Censure in the House of Lords — Eefusal — The Samboes 
— Probable Origin of the Mosquito Name — The Mosquito Shore completely 
Evacuated — The Samboes in a Eeal Estate Operation — The Dog in the Manger — • 
Eevolted Negroes from St. Domingo — The Productions of the Mosquitoes — Belize — 
Its Armorial Bearings — Surplice Hbes 247 

CHAPTER XXV. 

The Mosquito Coast again — Usurpations of England — Claims of Spain — Indepen- 
dence of Guatemala — England's Acknowledgments — The Colony of Bay Islands 
— Conflicting Claims — An Act of the English Parliament — The Treaty of 1850 — 
The Protectorate Eiction and Lord John Exxssel — The United States and Great 
Britain — Lord Clarendon's Argument — Mr. Clayton as Eendered by Mr. Lawrence 
— Lord Clarendon again — Mr. Webster Misconstrued — Lord John Eussel to the 
Point 260 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

"The Inter-Oceanic Canal — Charter for the Transit Eoute — Synopsis of its Provisions 
— Its Importance to the United States — Postulate of President Monroe — British 
Interference — Nicaragua Protests — The Clayton and Bulwer Treaty Mooted — Mr, 
Eives to Lord Palmerston — Eeply of the Latter — Cardinal Points of the Treaty- 
Treaty of Commerce and Friendship with Nicaragua — The Canal Company's 
Charter Amended — Leoneze Protest — Save Me from My Friends ! — Vive La Cham- 
pagne! — The Canal in Nubibus — The Transit Tangible 272 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Kivas Revokes the Transit Company's Charter — What Nicaragua Claims in the 
Matter — The Eeply Thereto — What the United States and Nicaragua Agreed to 
Do — What Eivas Did and the Eemedies therefor — The Cass and Trisarri Treaty 
— What President Buchanan says — Wants an Armed Force to Protect the Transit 
— What the Postmaster-General says — Importance to Foreign Eesidents of keep- 
ing the Eoute Open — Monsieur Belly Negotiates for a Eoute — Eemarks of the 
French Press thereon — Christopher Columbus, Baron Humboldt, and Louis 
Napoleon on Inter-Oceanic Communications — Overland Eoute — Gen. Cass on the 
Intervention of Foreign Powers — The Policy of the American Continent 28 



16 • CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER 

PAQH 

A Dash at Political History— Extent and Population of Guatemala— How It was 
Governed nnder Spain— Her Liberality and its Abuse by the Mother Country — 
Discontent and Insurrections — Independence Declared — Gainza chosen President 

A General Congress Called — Constitution — Subdivision into States — Population 

and Capitals— Boundaries of the United Provinces— The Legislative Power— State 
Eegulations — National Flag and its Devices— The Dream of the Castilian 30G 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Origin of the Mexicans— Emigration— The Six Tribes— Their Portunes and Misfor- 
tunes — Found the City of Mexico— Elect a King — Montezuma the Elder— Monte- 
zuma the Younger — Coming of the Spaniards — Guatemozin — Cort6s — Dies of a 
Broken Heart — His Eemains — Title and Estates — Blood of the Montezumas — 
Pizarro— Title, Estates, and Descendants— His Eemains — One of his Fingers in 
Baltimore — The Holy Cross — Montezuma a Deity— El Paraiso de Mahoma 312 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Cortes in Search of the Strait— What Oviedo thought— Alvarado in Search of it— 
Christoval de Olid— The Secret to make Charles the Fifth Lord of the World- 
All the Maritime Nations of Europe trying to Penetrate it— Spain Eager on the 
Subject— Balboa Eevels in Gold and Gems— Suffers as a Traitor— Pedro Arias— 
The Conquerors of Mexico and Peru— Mutual Astonishment— Speculation still Eife 
as to the Strait— The Secret yet in Embryo— Five Points of Transit— Objections to 
a Ship Canal— Advantages of a Eailway— Estimates and Eemarks , 332 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Cardinal Sources of a Nation's Greatness- The Future of Nicaragua-Contains all 
the Elements of Wealth— Must Awake or Sleep Forever— A Vigorous Eepublic on 
the Wing— The Great Nations of the East— Halls of the Montezumas— The Ee- 
publics of the Great Southern Continent— California a Vast National Mart — Sau 
Francisco the Constantinople of the Americas — Gold Hunters of the Conquest — 
Mountains never Keep Accounts— The Great Pacific Eailway— The Present Mail 
Route— Trade of Asia— Our Continent— Ship Canal— Great Britain versus the 
United States 345 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

The Castilian Conquest— The Eomance of the Fifteenth Century- Conflicting Opin- 
ions — Mexico — Senator Houston's Proposition — Brautz Mayer — Abbe Muliua — 
Want of Coulidence Illustrated— Nicaragua as it is— Prescott — What Spain was 
under Ferdinand and Isabel — What she is Now — Causes of a Nation's Else or 
Fall— Destiny of the United States— One of Wealth and Universal Redemption... 368 



NICARAGUA. 

ITS PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE, 



* * - » ► 



CHAPTER I. 

EXTENT — OEOGRAPHICAL POSITION — VOLCANOES — LAKES — MANAaXTA AND NIC- 
ARAGUA — RIVERS— THE RIO SAN JUAN — TRAILING VINES — ALLIGATORS — ■ 

MONKEYS RAPIDS — THE CASTILLO AND MACHUOA — CLIMATE TEMPERATURE 

AN INCIDENT. 

The Republic of Nicaragua is embraced entirely between 
83^ and 88° west longitude from G-reenwich, or 6° and 11° 
west from Washington, and between 9° 30' and 15° of north 
latitude, with an area of between fifty and sixty thousand square 
miles, being about seven times the extent of Massachusetts. 
It is bounded by the Caribbean Sea on the east ; on the west 
by the Pacific Ocean ; north, by the river Yanks, or Segovia, 
2 (11) 



18 NICARAGUA. 

and partly by the river Koman ; and south by Costa Rica — 
or, as this is a mooted point, we may add, its southern bound- 
ary, separating it from Costa Kica, runs in a right line from 
the mouth of the river Salto de Nicoya to the lower mouth 
of the Rio San Juan. Its geographical position, having a 
fine harbor, the town of Greytown, or San Juan, on the At- 
lantic, and other fine harbors on the Pacific, fully entitles this 
small State to the consideration of statesmen and the mercan- 
tile world, and has won for it its motto " The vast gate of the 
twin sea.^^ The great chain of Cordilleras diverges in two 
ranges, and all the streams upon the southern side fall into the 
lakes Managua and Nicaragua, or into the Rio San Juan. 
The Pacific range, in volcanic cones, follows the general direc- 
tion of the coast, gradually settling to low hills and plains. 
The principal cones are Momotombo, Momobacho, Ometepec, 
Madeira, with those of Yiejo, Santa Clara, Axusco, Orosi, 
Abogado, together with others less remarkable, yet known 
not alone as landmarks, and as beautiful natural structures, 
but as being the traditional depots of great hidden wealth. 

There are two remarkable and beautiful inland lakes : that 
of Managua, erroneously called Leon, and Nicaragua ; the 
former being about fifty-five miles long by thirty-five in width, 
ranging from two to thirty-five fathoms deep. The moun- 
tains of Matagalpa, rich with silver, gold, lead, and other 
minerals, on the northern and eastern shores, margin with 



LAKES MANAGUA AND NICARAGITA. 19 

^ondrons beauty this quiet basin, while Momotombo, from 
whose lofty peak I watched thin clouds of smoke wreathing 
upward, relieved by the dark gray morning sky, rises, grandly, 
in its bosom ; Momotombita, a fit companion, stands in bold 
relief, so beautifully artistic in design and character, that it 
wins an involuntary exclamation from us as, on the beach, we 
gaze far up its shaggy ascent. 

The Lake Nicaragua is about one hundred and ten miles 
long by thirty-five to sixty miles in breadth, and every 
variety of depth may here be fathomed. This sheet of water 
is the most beautiful of any I ever saw ; and yet within its 
depths the rapacious shark fins his way along, and the timid 
mariner witnesses waterspouts, and experiences the most 
sudden, dangerous squalls met with in any water on the globe. 
Its sole outlet is the Kio San Juan. During the months of 
October, November, December, and January, the prevailing 
winds are from the northeast, and the waves of the lake scud 
angrily upon the beach, dashing the spray, broadcast, in 
refreshing showers. At such seasons, travelers, desirous of 
journeying from the south, experience much difficulty in 
getting off in the small schooners heretofore exclusively used 
between Granada and the ports south of it — San Jorge and 
Tirgin Bay. Indeed, I have known parties who have been 
delayed two weeks, yet endeavoring, perhaps frequently dur- 
ing the day, to launch their boats, but ere their sails would 



20 NICARAGUA. 

fill, the breakers, rushing shoreward, would drive the boats 
high and dry upon the beach. It was formerly supposed from 
this, that there was an ebb and flow to the lake, and judging 
at such seasons, a stranger would be convinced that it was no 
dream, but an actual reality. The streams known as the San 
Carlos and Serapaqui, flow into the Kio San Juan, with 
numerous others bordering it. This river is from one hun- 
dred yards to a quarter of a mile wide, from one to twenty- 
five feet deep, and about ninety-one miles long, margined 
by heavy underbrush and fine timber ; while the bank on 
either side is so heavily screened with trailing vines, that 
at various places it is impenetrable to the eye. I have seen 
a single one, climbing up a gigantic Trumpet-tree, wreathe 
round its top, cover it, then falling gracefully in myriads of 
clusters resembling the various jets of a fountain, reach terra 
firma, then clasp another tree, and so on until one would almost 
imagine the Banyan before him. Upon its shores, and on 
the many sand islets, is seen reposing, in fancied and blest 
security, like a fat millionaire, the swarthy alligator ; and leap- 
ing from tree to tree, and shriekingly from vine to vine, are 
countless monkeys — some short-tailed, others long, ring-tailed, 
others no-tailed, cropped off short, regular bob-tails.\ 

For calm, quiet beauty, the Rio San Juan is pre-eminent, 
and will retain numberless charms for the tourist's eye, even 
should the axe of the settler ring through the wilderness on 



THE RAPIDS — MACHUCA AND CASTILLO. 21 

its banks. There are various rapids in the ascent, viz. : the 
Machucha, the Castillo, the Tauro, the Cow, and the Calf. 
The Machucha Rapids take their name from Captain Diego, 
Machuca, who, in 1529, explored the river. They are by no 
means entitled to the name, but may better be designated as 
an eddy, for here the river bends, and the current is swift, 
indeed very swift, yet navigable for stern-wheel boats without 
much difficulty. The Castillo Kapids — where the old castle 
frowns from its height of one hundred feet or more above, are 
truly such, yet far from equaling those on the St. Lawrence 
Kiver, and others elsewhere. They appear to have been 
formed by art, rather than Nature. Large loose stones 
obstruct the river, and the swift current roars through the 
interstices, seeming at a short distance to be indeed very 
formidable ; yet I, with others, in 1850, endeavored to haul a 
stern-wheel iron steamer up them, and should have succeeded, 
had the banks been firm, or had we had a stump around 
which to trail our hawsers. Our feet slipped, the current 
swept the boat down — down over the rapids. Being of 
iron, she bounded from rock to rock, and after sweeping 
perhaps one hundred yards down the current, ran safely 
ashore on the opposite bank. 

It requires but little valor to brave these rapids ; and the 
heart of a sailor throbs lightly and easily under his jacket, as 
he steers his craft into the stream, and mounts the noisy little 



22 NICARAGUA. 

bubbles. Fort St. Juan, called also the Castle of Neustra 
Senora, surmouuts the hill at the Castillo Kapids, on the left 
in ascending the river. It is now in a state of decay ; but 
in its earlier days it had a small battery, mounted with thirty- 
six guns, whose platform was level with the water, the whole 
enclosed on the land side by a ditch and rampart. The gar- 
rison consisted of one hundred infantry, sixteen artillery-men, 
and sixty militia, and was also provided with guard-boats, 
which were rowed up and down the river every night. The 
fort was provisioned from Granada ; and six months stores 
were always stowed away in the capacious under-ground 
garners. 

There is a variety of climate in Nicaragua, the heat being 
less on the Pacific than the Atlantic coast. On the former, 
the rainy season sets in in the early part of May ; and with 
the exception or intervention of fifteen or twenty days in July 
and the beginning of August, continues till October, and in 
^ some sections till November. During the remainder of the 
year an occasional shower refreshes the heated air, sufficient 
only to glaze the parched leaves — yet in this dry season, fine 
fruits are in abundance ; and although the crisp grass and 
wilted leaves evidence drought, or in fact, correspond to our 
winter, yet with the difference in mid-day, there is no great 
change in the temperature. The interior is cooler than the 
coast by about 14^ Fahrenheit. On the Atlantic, rains fail 



ITS TEMPERATURE. 23 

throughout the year with considerable uncertainty ; the driest 
season is from June to October; the wettest from that to 
May. 

From daybreak to 10 A. M., in this country, is always pleas- 
ant, and a ride on horseback is enjoyed; from 10 A. M. to 
4 P. M. the heat is intense, so much so, that the population 
are generally swinging in their casas in their hammocks, save 
the mariners and washer-women, who are sprinkled over the 
lake beach at Managua and Granada ; from 4 P. M. the 
temperature is modified by the coming on of night. There 
seems scarcely a pause between the bright glare of the sun 
and the mellow rays of the moon : twilight being a dream, or 
mayhap a memory of a far- distant land. ■ 

\The evenings are delightfully agreeable, and the air pure, 
so much so, that a party conversing in the usual key, may be 
interpreted at the distance of a square, and I have frequently 
been able to follow the air of some serenader, distant at least 
three-fourths of a mile. / 

The rainy season is the most pleasant, the thermometer 
ranging from Y8° to 88*^, rarely below Y2° in the night, and 
rising to 90° in the afternoon. At Granada, in June, 82° ; 
in Leon, in July, August and September, 83° ; and a strong 
breeze sweeps from the lake, rendering the nights just such 
as guarantee refreshing sleep. In the dry season, in January, 
the temperature is less occasionally cool j every thing is filled 



24 NICARAGUA. 

with dust ; clouds of grasshoppers sweep over the forests, 
devour the leaves of the trees and vines, and leave a ghostly 
picture of desolation and aridity behind. I remember, during 
a ride from the little Indian village of Nindiri to Managua, 
in company with several friends, meeting a host of these 
rapacious banditti. We were in the midst of a forest; a 
cloud seemed to hang over our heads ; a rattling among the 
dried leaves of the trees attracted our attention, resembling 
sand thrown on blotting-paper, though louder. Wherever we 
turned, there this living cloud extended. We found, upon 
reaching the outskirt of the woods, that an immense body of 
grasshoppers were winging past us, leaving leafless bushes, 
trees, and a trail of barren, poverty-stricken herbage. We 
pushed forward, in a fast walk, and judging by the time 
occupied, we estimated this moving mass to have been at least 
four miles long by three miles in breadth. This is not aa 
uncommon visit, nor do I over-estimate the extent of this de- 
scribed party of insects. 

Years agone, their devastation was so great, that prayers 
were offered up in all the churches of the State. The towns 
were filled with them — the yards, rooms, barracks, and 
churches ; wherever there was a void, there they went. 
Prayers were unavailing, useless, till one morn, at daybreak, 
a mighty rushing was heard overhead. A terrible crash, a 
battling, as it were, of wings, mingled with cries and shrieks. 



SAN INliaiJ Eli's GREAT BATTLE. 25 

On came the heavy cloud, and far above, clad in angelic 
armor, San Miguel was seen driving the enemy back, and at 
every blow massacring myriads. As the sun rose fully up, 
the scene on Nature's canvas grew fainter, the cries less 
distinct, yet the sword of the patron saint was seen still 
battling. The enemy was routed ; the country safe. So runs 
the story. ^^ 

These same insects, or their progeny, returned there during 
my stay in the country, and seemed to have all the fun to 
themselves. However, they did not settle there, but only paid 
a flying visit, leaving ample room for other adventurers, 
whose patron saints were strong arms, whose advent was sure, 
and whose dispersion was at least uncertain. 



CHAPTER II. 

DISTRICTS, POPULATION — TOWNS, POPULATION — GRANADA, ITS ARCHITECTURE, 
CHURCHES, STREETS, CARTS, WASHING AND WASHER-WOMEN — SAN CARLOS, 
THE COMMANDANTE's HOUSE, THE OLD FORT, THE CUSTOM HOUSE — LAKE 
NICARAGUA — RIO FRIO — LA BOQUETA — ISLANDS — VIRGIN BAY^AND THE 
ADJACENT COUNTRY — SAN MIGUELITA — SAN JORGE, ITS PAROCHIAL CHURCH 
ROAD TO RIVAS. 

There are six districts in this State : viz., Rivas ; Chontales, 
Granada, Massaya, and Managua ; Leon and Chinandega ; 
Matagalpa ; Segovia ; and Guanacaste. From a late census 
return, the combined population amounts to two hundred and 
sixty-four thousand : — Rivas, twenty thousand ; Chontales, 
Granada, Massaya, and Managua, ninety-five thousand ; Leon 
and Chinandega, ninety thousand ; Matagalpa, forty thousand ; 
Segovia, twelve thousand ; and Guanacaste, seven thousand. 
There are about twenty towns, varying in population from five 
hundred to thirty thousand. Bivas, or ancient Nicaragua, has 
about eleven thousand; Granada, hftcen thousand j Massaya, 
(26) 



GRANADA — ITS ARCHITECTURE — TRAVEL. 2T 

fifteen thousand ; Managua, eleven thousand ; Leon, twenty- 
five thousand to thirty thousand; and Chinandega, about 
twelve thousand. 

i Granada, lying on Lake Nicaragua, occupies tlie site of the 
ancient Indian town "Salteba." Its buildings are of adobes 
roofed with tiles, while its principal edifices, with domes and 
towers, are of a strange medley of Moresque architecture. 
The windows are bird-cages on a large scale ; the houses are 
one story in height, and are about sixteen or eighteen feet 
from the pavement to the eaves of the roofs, w^hich project 
beyond the walls, and serve to wanderers as coverings from the 
rain. The pavements are raised, leaving the streets about two 
feet or more below ; and as the town is built on terraces, 
during the rainy season floods of water rush down this chan- 
nel with great velocity, rendering it any thing but an easy 
task to cross from side to side. The streets are narrow, 
though ample for convenience and beauty. They are unpaved, 
and in dry weather dusty ; yet better sheltered by the over- 
hanging roofs from the tropical sun than those of North 
America. The churches are generally in a state of decay, 
and present little remarkable to the eye. 

Riding on horseback is the principal mode of traveling. 
There are mule paths throughout the entire State, but few 
roads are passable for a cart or wagon, not many of which are 
used. ' The carters with their loaded vehicles often afford a 



28 NICARAGUA. 

rich treat to the observer, though doubtless vexatious enough 
to themselves. With one wheel perhaps in a deep wash, the 
other on a rock, it requires assiduous attentions on the part 
of the driver to ever reach a market with his cargo in safety. 
The wheels screech, for grease is never used, but instead of it 
a bush, called the soap-bush, also used for washing ; this, for 
a time, eases the thirsty axle, but, anon, as the wheel rolls on, 
its plaintive cries for more soap grate harshly on the ear. It 
is said this custom of non-greasing is deemed politically expe- 
dient, for no enemy can thus approach a town without giving 
due notice. 

Taken altogether, the city of G-ranada is situated beautifully, 
and is a truly delightful residence. It was founded in 1522, 
by Francisco. Hernandez de Cordova, who built a fort for its 
protection on the lake beach, which is now much dilapidated, 
or was, prior to Gen. Walker's entering it. Its gray walls, 
and its sentry-box, which may once have resounded with martial 
music, are now deserted, save where the humming washer-woman 
hangs the banner of her profession — a shirt, or its accompani- 
ments — on the bulwarks, to bleach in the sun. These ladies 
do a vast deal of thumping. Your clothes are sent to be 
washed, say at seventy-five cents per dozen ; it must be stated, 
definitely, starching and ironing, or there will be extras in 
the bill. They take the clothes to the lake, place them 
between two large stones, (similar to the iron stone,) rub 



THE RIO SAN JUAN— SAN CARLOS — THE LAKE, 29 

them with the soap-bush, and then beat them till in a foam ; 
then a rinse in the lake ; soap them again, and another beating 
upon the stone, in so vigorous manner, as only to be fully 
appreciated by the poor fellow gazing on, and question- 
ing himself as to where he shall get buttons to replace those 
now flying off; and who is to do the sewing. A clean shirt 
is a luxury ; but even a clean one without buttons, is sadly 
vexatious. 

Having ascended the Rio San Juan to Lake Mcaragua, 
let us pause at this spot, and survey, on either hand, the out- 
spread panorama. To the right, on an eminence, stands the 
house of the Commandante of San Carlos, protected by a 
single gun, loaded to the muzzle probably for ten years past, and 
over whose touch -hole lies a piece of broken crockery. Here 
also is the Custom House, a regular frame barn, supported on 
posts some sixteen feet high, and under which goods are piled in 
indiscriminate confusion. The place was dedicated to the State, 
but dogs, pigs, and cows here meet on equal terms, and litter 
and repose in perfect security. The Old Fort lies back on a 
higher point, decayed, and covered with gross herbage. Its 
position commands the Lake and the mouth of the San Juan. 
Here also are piled up a great quantity of balls ; and fine can- 
non, of exquisite mould, lie half hidden in the grass. The 
town consists of a few cane huts. 

The Lake is before us— a wondrous, beautiful sheet — 



'30 NICARAGUA. 

studded with islands, covered with fruits and valuable 
woods, while, from its bosom rise Ometepec and Madeira, 
giant sentries o'er the wide and waving waste. To the left, 
flows the Rio Frio, whose sources are in the mountains of 
Costa E-ica, from whence is derived the coolest and most re- 
freshing water in the State ; and although it has a depth of 
two fathoms, or more, for fifty miles above its mouth, and, 
consequently, is navigable for small stern-wheel steamers, yet 
its history is sealed, naught being, as yet, known concerning 
it, save from the unfriendly Guatosos Indians, who inhabit its 
banks, and who deny all entrance there. From some of these, 
glowing accounts of gold, silver, and opals have been re- 
ceived. 

The islands of La Boqueta swarm near Granada, resembling 
the floating gardens of ancient Mexico. Solentiname, Zapa- 
tcro, Cubi, the Corales, and numberless smaller ones, all dot 
the lake, a full account of which we are compelled to forego ia 
our general history, though all are worthy of attention and of 
a visit. Across the lake is Virgin Bay, the landing point for 
passengers who have left the United States for California. It 
is on rising ground. The site will never answer for a town of 
any importance, although a pier has been constructed at great 
expense, for the landing of passengers. Its harbor is any 
thing but safe, the bottom being hard and sandy. Prior to 
the introduction of steamers on the Lake, vessels anchored at 



THE COUNTRY — SAN MiaUELITO — SAN JORGE. 31 

certain seasons, one mile and a half from the shore, to prevent 
(irap:ginp: their anchors when the wind was high. 
• The conntry around it is rich and fertile, though grown up 
with rank vegetation and underbrush ; and until the axe and 
plow are generally introduced here, and the hardy Anglo- 
Saxon dares its privations, malarias will abound, and the 
stories of Nicaragua's natural wealth and incomparable beauties 
will be received with suspicion, or listened to as were the tra- 
ditionary legends of the ancient Incas of Peru. 

San Mignelito is on the little bay of the same name, twenty 
miles above San Carlos. The country around is generally 
uninviting, though good grazing ground. Beyond, lie the 
volcanic mountains of Chontales. The shores are low and un- 
dulating. Those desirous of visiting what is generally termed 
Nicaragua, push across to the west side of the Lake where 
the outlined hills present a more favorable prospect. Beyond 
the black, volcanic masses, the mind imagines green fields, 
luxurious savannahs, and other scenes refreshing and pleasant 
to dwell upon. We shall speak of Chontales elsewhere in our 
volume. 

A few miles north of Virgin Bay, on the opposite shore from 
San Carlos, stands, on rising ground, the little village of San 
Jorge, the port of Rivas. It is a pretty spot ; almost every 
house surrounded with the coyal palm, the banana, plantain, 
and the cocoa. In its little plaza stands its parochial church, 



32 NICARAGUA. 

built in the uniform Moresque style, and dedicated to San 
Jorge. Jt is quite large, and contains twelve or thirteen 
altars, exclusive of the main one, covering the back part entire. 
It has few relics, nor is it richly ornamented, but answers that 
for which it was intended — a house of God. The padre I 
met acted as my cicerone ; and after showing me the church 
Ts^ld village, invited me to his house, where he regaled me with 
a good cigar, some good wine, and his blessing. I sprang 
into the stirrup, and after promising to deliver certain letters 
for him, as well as to call again^ returned to the main road, 
and pushed forward to Kivas. 

The road verges greatly — its length, probably about three 
miles, though one may think it five or six. Scattered along 
the route are ranchos hidden in orange and lemon groves, 
while, lining the path, the mango, to me the handsomest tree 
in the world, woos the weary traveler to a siesta. He is 
tempted to rest ; the cocoa-nut hangs bewitchingly from its 
eyrie above, while the rattle of its milk within, appeals strongly 
to his tastes. He seizes a full one, leaps from his mule, and 
for a time forgets absence from those beloved in a distant 
clime. 



CHAPTER III. 

RIVAS — THE PLAZA — MARKET — SENORITAS — EARLY HISTORY — GIL GONZALES 
I)E AVILA — THE ARRIVAL OF THE SPANIARDS — NICARAGUA — RODRIGO DE 
CONTRERAS — HERNANDEZ — THE CAPTURE OP THE COUNTRY — COUNTRY 

ABOUT RIVAS BUSINESS — SAMOZA, THE REBEL CHIEF — HOTEL AND EATING 

CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO — BUST OF WASHINGTON — HENRY CLAY PRICE 

OP LAND — STORES AND TRADE — LIVING, BEEF, ETC. — MANNER OF COOKING 
— STOVES — WOOD. 

Our way is over a rolling country, well covered with fruits, 
where are numerous sites for beautiful homes. Rivas, the 
capital of the district, is entered by a broad road leading to 
the plaza, found in every Spanish settlement. Upon it is 
located the Cathedral, Government Houses, and shops, while 
the ground itself is occupied daily by the country people, who 
here sell their marketing — corn, beans, onions, oranges, 
lemons, pine-apples, jocotes, coffee, tobacco, sugar, cheese — 
in fine, everything from the haciendas to tempt the appetite 
and appease it. The seSorita, with her dark olive skin well 
3 (33) 



34 NICARAGUA. 

washed for the occasion, in her nice camisa, not reaching to 
her waist, and with a skirt independent of any contact aboTe,\^ 
smokes her cigarita, and laughs with the bargainer, while her 
sparkling eye entices the unwary foreigner to purchase at an 
exorbitant rate. 

The dark-eyed daughters of Seville, and the nut-brown 
lasses of Nicaragua, have the same origin ; their language, 
mayhap, is partially changed, yet their spirits, their souls, 
are identical, and he who stays his steps beside the little 
saleswoman, will purchase. Smiles have a common origin, 
and sweet ones wreathe the pouting lips of Nicaragua's 
daughters, sufficient to bewilder any poor devil who, for the 
jBrst time, dallies by their side. 

The city of Rivas occupies the site of the aboriginal town. 
The first Spaniard who visited it was Gil Gonzales de Avila, 
who sailed from Panama in 1522. This noble landed upon 
the shores of the Gulf of Nicoya, with four horses and one 
hundred men. After experiencing many hardships, he entered 
the domain of the chief, Nicoya, who gave the Spaniards valu- 
able presents, and in turn received from them glass toys and 
other pretty articles. Gonzales, learning that many miles 
northward, another chief had his territory-, pushed forward, and 
reached the old town of Nicaragua, now Rivas, the subject 
of our present chapter. After some difficulties, battles ensued 
between them. The Spanish horse, an object of terror to 



HISTORY OF RIVAS — ITS PRODUCTIONS. 35 

these Indians, as well as to the early Mexicans and Peruvians, 
saved the utter destruction of the Spanish party ; and they 
returned to Panama, with mighty accounts of the country, its 
resources, and its people. 

Pedro de Arias thereupon determined to found a colony 
there, and dispatched Francisco Hernandez de Cordova for 
that purpose. Leon and Granada were built ; but Pedro de 
Arias dying, his son-in-law, Rodrigo de Cont'reras, succeeded 
him. The orders of the crown, denying him, or any of the 
officers, holding the Indians as property, were disregarded. 
Provoked by petty and private jealousies, assassinations 
occurred. Rodrigo sought Spain to vindicate himself ; and' 
in his absence, Hernandez openly revolted, took possession 
of the country, and then embarked for Panama, which he 
captured ; met with various mishaps, and finally sickened and 
died. In time it became a province in the Captain-gen eralcy 
of Guatemala, and so remained until 1823, when a spirit of 
republicanism drove monarchy from the country. Such is 
the history of Kivas. 

The country immediately around, is just such as might be 
rendered all that man could desire. Three good crops may 
be raised annually. Corn will average fifty to seventy bushels 
to the acre. Indigo grows luxuriantly ; fine woods ; and the 
best-flavored and strongest coffee I ever drank — to my taste, 
superior to the Mocha, At one time Kivas occupied the 



36 NICARAGUA. 

prominent position for commerce ; its port, San Jorge, being 
forty-five miles nearer the Kio San Juan than Granada, and 
the immediate lands about San Jorge being well cultivated 
and high ; but the connection now fully established through 
from the Pacific, has deprived it of all importance, and 
Granada must become at some time the favorite locality in 
the State. Prior to the connection above-mentioned, pas- 
sengers touching at Realejo, on the Pacific, traveled on mules 
across the country, and arriving at Granada, would there take 
bungoes, at whatever rates could be agreed on, for Greytown. 
This of itself has aided Granada greatly. Impressed with its 
delightful situation, its bathing, its fine fruits, and the high 
order of intellect of its inhabitants, many remained there for 
months. Some intermarried, and thus business connections 
were formed, which eventuated in Granada becoming the 
favorite among all classes of foreigners. 

:To me, however, Kivas is a grand old place. There is 
something in the ruined cathedral on its plaza, the marks of 
devastation everywhere to be found, the remnants of antique 
statues seen in old rubbish, and in the songs of the people, 
which remind one of some old legend, read in the palmy 
days of youth./ I passed hours sitting on a broken wall, en- 
deavoring to image fully to myself the primal condition of 
this edifice, of this statue, or of that cathedral. Amid so 



SAMOZA — WASniNOTON — HENRY CLAY. oT 

mncli fallen grandeur, such general wreck, what lessons have 
been taught, and what have been learned I 

War is common among all the Central States. The leaders 
think little of an engine which conveys death to the mass ; 
politics are their footballs, and the people the levers, the 
tools whereby their ends are to be attained. One morn, after 
a long walk about the suburbs, on reaching a corner, I ob- 
served a gibbet before me. I asked a muchacho standing by, 
what it meant. He told me the famous Samoza, a rebel 
chief, had been hung there. I took out my knife, and cutting 
off a piece, put it in my pocket, much to the boy^s surprise. 

The hotel I lodged in had every comfort — good beds, mat- 
trasses, a good table, and every edible well-cooked, and, to 
to my surprise, every thing, even to the towels in my room, 
were white and clean : these luxuries cost two dollars and a 
half per day. Above the hotel stood the Church of San 
Francisco. I had been in it frequently ; but one day, seated on 
the steps, and casting my eyes upward, to my great surprise, I 
marked the bust of General Washington, in a niche over the 
door. Amazed, I inquired of a man passing, what that bust 
was called. He replied: "Saint Francis." ''Oh, no!" I 
retorted, '"tis an American, the great General Washington." 
The poor hombre raised his hat, crossed his hands on his 
breast, muttered something I supposed to be a prayer, and 



38 NICARAGUA. 

then replied ; " Ah, senor, he is loved very much by Nica- 
ragua — and Henry Clay, too." Two tributes from a poor 
JSTicaraguan to the memories of great men of my country. I 
took his arm, walked home with him, and spent several de- 
lightful hours in his humble house. 

The price of land in and about this city is very moderate, 
at a short distance from town being only from five to seven 
dollars per acre. There are many delightful private resi- 
dences, and the rent of a house, in good order, can be had 
for from eight to twelve dollars per month ; so that on a 
trifling annuity, a foreigner could live as happily as heart 
need desire. The business habits of the people are simple ; 
and judging by the ease with which every matter of 
business is characterized, it would lead to the supposition 
that they were unaccustomed to trade, yet such is far from 
the truth. They bargain well ; are, in fact, inveterate Jews, 
whether the amount bargaining for be a dollar's worth or a 
dime's. The store is one corner of a front room, opening on 
the street, cooped off, and resembling an old-fashioned corner 
cupboard. Here are stowed laces, ruffles, calicoes, prints, 
and other commodities ; pins are generally scarce articles. As 
a general thing, there is much to amuse one among the shop- 
keepers. A pound of cheese is wanted. The pound cannot 
be got in a lump — it being the custom to cut it into small 
square pieces about the size of a sugar-cracker, and in this 



LIVINa — A NICARAGUA COOK- STOVE. *dd 

way one must take it. One wants to purchase chickens, beans, 
hides, or any thing else at wliolesale. The retail price for 
chickens is, say, twenty cents per pair. By the quantity it 
will more than likely be thirty or forty cents, for the simple 
reason that you want them, and therefore must pay. Beef, 
good and fat, cannot be purchased at any price ; the oxen 
are worked till they nearly drop, then they are penned up, 
without regard to fatness, until it suits the butcher to kill. 
The beef is cut into strips, like coarse shoe-strings, and then 
dried in the air for use. Whatever of fat is found, is con- 
verted into candles. 

This beef with corn-cake, sugar and cheese, a sprinkle of 
onions and a heavy dash of garlic from the larder, is the 
general dish, although at an American hotel a splendid meal 
can be had. "We give, however, the kitchen arrangements of 
the inhabitants of Nicaragua. The culinary department is re- 
markably simple — Adam and Eve might have used the same 
apparatus ; it answers pretty well for fries and stews, but it is 
to be hoped that some kind of a machine may be introduced 
or invented by which a broil may also be had. Two round 
stones, on which a pot is placed, is the stove ; fire is kindled 
underneath, and from this results your meal. In regard to 
wood, one sees no loads brought into town ; a small bundle of 
short sticks is sold for ten cents, and it is very diflQcult to pro- 
cure a large supply at any price. It is generally porous and 



40 NICARAGUA. 

soft, and burns with difficulty ; and in many cases is a source 
of great annoyance. A vast amount is taken on board the 
Lake steamers, and yet but little steam can be generated from 
it. These boats run probably six to seven miles per hour ; 
while upon our waters, with our wood, the same vessels could 
easily make from sixteen to seventeen. 



CHAPTER IV. 

OLD STATUES — THE OLD CONVENT — THE PAROCHIAL — THE BODY OF THE VIRGIN 
— THE PADRE AND THE CALIFORNIAN — A "WAGER — THE RESULT — LA MER- 
CEDES — SAN JUAN DE DIOS — THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE HOTELS AND PRICES 

^F BOARD — THE CUARTEL — THE TROOPS — THE BAND THE MUSIC FUNERALS 

GRAVE-YARD — BURNING BONES — INSTRUMENTS OP MUSIC — DRESS — PRICES 

OF CLOTHING HATS SHOES RENTS OF HOUSES THE GOOD OLD RULE. 

In and about Granada are some few things worthy of note, 
to which we recur prior to commencing our journey toward 
the Pacific. On the corner of one of the streets in the upper 
portion of the city — the Jalteva — stands an old relic called 
"The Stone of the Mouth," which projects about two and a half 
feet above the ground, and is some two feet broad by the same 
in thickness. It was brought from one of the islands by a 
sailor, and is a strange old head. The mouth being open, 
seems to express "Oh ! oh !" At one corner of the plaza, stands 
a statue of black basalt, representing a human figure with jaws 

(41) 



42 NICARAGUA. 

open and tongue protruding, on the head of which rests a cat 
or panther. 

The old Convent of San Francisco must have been an ele- 
gant edifice in its day, for even yet it retains a massive 
grandeur with the paint and varnish of young years effaced. 
It faces a broad avenue, raised at least ten or twelve feet 
above the level of the street. Its plaza front occupies an entire 
square, with steps on either side leading to the level of the 
street below. The architecture is yet almost intact, and the 
entire building might be renovated at a trifling cost. It 
would answer well for a first-class hotel, a school, or govern- 
ment house — by far preferable for the latter to the one now in 
use. At the corner of this convent stands another curiosity, 
called " The Whistler," a broken fragment of an antique. 

The parochial church is a very ancient structure, containing 
the bones of some of the early bishops of Managua, some 
prints and paintings of very indifferent merit, and also, if rumor 
be true, the body of the Yirgin. The story runs thus : This 
body — which heretics pronounce wooden — was washed ashore 
one windy night, and found by one of the padres on the Lake 
beach. It was in a box. Upon opening this, the body was 
discovered, together with an inscription to the effect, that no 
harm should ever visit the church so long as this body should 
be kept inviolate within its walls. The story gained publicity, 



THE PADRE AND THE CALIFORNIAN — LA MERCEDES. 43 

until finally it reached a doubting Californian's ears. He 
applied to a padre for the facts, who told him It was true. 

"Well," said the Californian, " I'll bet my pile it's not so." 
The padre's eyes glistened as he replied, " You shall judge for 
yourself. The body is discolored, having been in the water so 
long ; but you may paint it white, or any color desired, and by 
to-morrow morning the paint will have vanished." "Agreed !" 
said our friend of El Dorado. The evening came, and the 
Californian, with his gold in his pocket, and his pot and brush 
in hand, went to paint the statue. The padre did not flinch. 
"Now," said our friend, placing his money on the floor of the 
church, "there's my bet ; and look you, padre, I shall sit here 
all night after I daub this : and remember, here are two Colt's 
revolvers, and if you dare to touch the body after I've painted 
it, I'll shoot you." The padre's heart failed him. He thought 
the Californian would trust to the sacred character of the 
church ; but the ruse failed, and the matter becoming public, 
a laugh ensued. "Whether the joke hurt the padre or the 
Californian most, I did not learn. 

In the interior of the city stands the Church of La Mercedes, 
which is truly an imposing building. It is situated similar to 
the Convent of San Francisco, and although it cannot boast 
of a gilded interior, costly altars, or choice paintings, still its 
exterior commands attention. About this church the private 
houses are of the first order, and within a stone's throw chiefly 



44 NICARAGUA. 

reside the elite of the city. The street leading to the 
Jalteva runs by La Mercedes to the south side of the plaza, 
immediately in front of the unfinished Church of San Juan de 
Dios. The fagade of this church is quite elaborate and 
elegantly designed; it fronts north, however, which, as I 
learned, was considered ill-omened, or unpropitious, and it is 
consequently left to decay. 

The Government House is a shabby saloon, thirty feet long 
by twenty wide, and furnished with long desks and benches, 
made of Madeira wood — a species of cedar — like those used in 
country school-houses. There are several fine hotels in 
Granada, the best, if it still exists, being the Irving Plouse. 
Price, one dollar and a half a day, or thirty-one dollars a 
month. It is located on a street leading east from the 
plaza, and immediately in the rear of the parochial church. 

Upon the northeastern side of the plaza, stands the cuartel, 
a long, one-story building, roughly built, serving as barracks, 
magazine, armory, drilling-room, and prison. From this 
celebrated depot the troops are trotted out at 12 M. every 
sunny day. The drummers beat very well, and a march is 
taken around the plaza and the principal streets. The band 
generally consists of two violins, two clarionets, one flute, two 
or three brass instruments, and a drum and fife. They really 
perform remarkably well ; though, for their very lives, they 
cannot play " Yankee Doodle" properly. The music in church 



FUNERALS — FEAST-DAYS. 45 

ia usually good. The orchestra is larger than the band, and 
there is generally a good second tenor voice of considerable 
compass and sweetness. 

Funerals are attended by any and every body. After the 
anointing with almond oil, the body is placed on a bier ; 
the bearers take their posts, and the procession moves on, 
headed by the priests, singing. Should the funeral be that 
of a child's, the corpse is neatly dressed, the little hands 
crossed on the breast, the eyes sometimes closed, and wreaths 
or bunches of flowers cast over it and placed about the head. 
Three or four musicians are kept fiddling and singing, and 
boys are firing off rockets, squibs, and crackers incessantly, 
and thus they march to the final resting-place. To become 
accustomed to such scenes greatly reduces the horror, the 
unknown, indescribable feeling occasioned by sudden or 
familiar approach to death. Yet it is trying to one's nerves ; 
•and I kept my eyes about me to avoid scenes repulsive to 
me, brace myself as I would. The grave-yard is about one 
hundred feet square, enclosed with a high fence. They com- 
mence at the gate, and bury in a circle ; and when the entire 
ground is covered, which, I am told, is about once a year, 
they then dig up the bones, collect them under a slab placed 
for the purpose, and on a certain fixed day burn them all. 
So we go : dust we are, but to thin air we vanish. 

All the feast days in the calendar are kept sacred. Every 



46 NICARAGUA. 

one bestows his time upou tliem, and holy week and all other 
holidays are hailed with great pleasure. The bells are so 
constantly ringing, that one grows accustomed to their ding- 
dong, and feels ill at ease when wandering in some secluded 
spot, with nothing but the songs and chirps of birds to break 
the monotonous silence. 

The instruments of music are quite numerous. I have 
heard, on a serenade, the overture to the Caliph of Bagdad, 
overture to Lucia, with various masses and anthems, by the 
old masters, performed in much better style, and in more 
perfect time, than in my own city, where so much respect is 
paid to musical education. The guitar is pre-eminent in all 
Spanish countries and provinces, and will ever remain so, 
for as an accompaniment to the voice, it cannot be surpassed. 
The flute and clarionet are also heard.~~^ Many of their com- 
positions I have listened to with great pleasure, and regret 
that I can only remember or recognize an occasional link in 
the chain of the melody. 

The masses dress neatly; the legislators usually in black, 
with black silk hats. The public, as a class, wear white coats, 
white pants, and a scarf of scarlet or yellow silk, as a sash, 
about their waists. This, with the jaunty, easy, graceful 
panama, completes the costume, which is agreeably conve- 
nient in such a climate. Clothing is dear. They have a 
French tailor in Granada who cuts well. Sliocs cnn be bouGfht 



THE GOOD OLD RULE. 41 

for about one dollar and twenty cents a pair. Hats at various 
prices. Rent is very low. For eight dollars per month, I 
took a house in the centre of the city, nearly adjoining the 
Church of La Mercedes, containing three large rooms, with 
a kitchen, an immense yard, and large stable attached. I 
deemed this very reasonable, but my friends thought it more 
than sufficient. 

The customs are extremely primeval, and I was never 
offended by any rudeness, or incivility. I found the old rule 
always brought me out right in the end — Do as you would be 
done by. And yet I have heard of extreme cases of duplicity, 
particularly toward foreigners, by those in power. There is 
little for outsiders to hope for, when a nation is wanting in 
faith to its own. 



CHAPTER V. 

RiVAS — THE HOMBRE — LEONEZE — AZTECS — THEIR MONUMENTS — BETWEEN RIVAS 
AND GRANADA — OBRAJE — GIL GONZALES — A LUXURY — SNAKES — HINTS FOR 
THOSE GOING TO NICARAGUA — BOA CONSTRICTORS — TIGRES — TIGRE NEGRO — 
MOUNTAIN CATS — COYOTE — BATS — THE CALIPORNIAN's PURCHASE — THE 
CHAMORRO ESTATE — TROOPS — MUSKETS — COLT'S REVOLVERS — ENROLLING 
SOLDIERS — MONOPOLIES — INCIDENT IN MANAGUA — A FLOGGING. 

RiVAS was once tlie seat of a Mexican colony, governed by 
a Cazique, Niquira. The dirty hombre, who bears prodigious 
burdens of corn upon his back, and who hesitates at nothing 
for a little money, can readily be traced to this origin. Indeed, 
in the various districts of Nicaragua, the inhabitants differ 
greatly, not only in physiognomy but in manner. Those of 
Leon, and the interior generally, bear themselves with greater 
ease, are more enlightened and refined, and evince a studious 
neatness in their apparel. "Upon the volcano of Ometepec, in 
the midst of the Lake, are the descendants of the Aztecs with 
(48) 



BETWEEN RIVAS AND GRANADA. 49 

some of their monuments still remaining, though both are in a 
decaying state. The early padres who accompanied the 
Soldiers of the Cross, evinced any thing but forbearance 
toward these dumb statues, from which we might now gather 
so much. Even those remaining have, in many cases, been 
hidden by the natives, who yet hold them in reverence. 
J Within two leagues of Rivas, is a greater population than 
is found to the same extent in any other portion of the State. 
The land is well cultivated ; between the road to Granada and 
the Lake, a perfect garden ; to the left, voluptuously rolling, 
at times rising to a little hill, yet every acre capable of culti- 
vation. Its many beautiful sites for haciendas has frequently 
attracted my attention. Three leagues from Rivas is the large, 
long town of Obraje, truly an aboriginal production. It is one 
of several around Rivas, and is a pretty fair sample of them all. 
Beyond Obraje stretch luxuriant fields, carpeted with waving 
grass, inviting one to slip from the saddle for a roll ; but the 
sun beats fiercely there, and we jog on through rows of papaya 
trees heavy with fruit, beautiful gardens well trimmed, and 
fields of maize rich in promise of an abundant harvest. We 
ford a stream, where my mule stops to drink and I to rest. 
This is the Gil Gonzales, so named after the adventurer of 
whom we have already given an account. Water is appreciated 
here, for though a mountainous country, streams are scarce. 
The volcanoes, thirsty fellows, seem to have swallowed them up. 
4 



50 NICARAGUA. 

On a bush, by the roadside, hangs something resembling a 
cart-lash, striped like a barber's pole, and which I am told — to 
use an English word — is a barber snake, and very venomous. 
Taking the hint, I give the gentleman a wide margin and 
pass on. These reptiles are sometimes found where least ex- 
pected. In Central America the houses rarely have any ceil- 
ing to the rooms, and they sometimes hide away in the thatched 
roofs ; occasionally falling upon persons underneath. Those 
visiting this country should take calico with them for ceilings 
as well as for canopies to bedsteads. They should also pro- 
vide themselves with mattrasses, musquito nets, blankets. India- 
rubber clothing, hats, strong boots and shoes, knives, pins, 
percussion caps, and mercurial ointment wherewith to oil the 
locks and barrels of their guns and pistols. ^ 

A stray boa constrictor may also be found on these gorgeous * 
savannahs. At Virgin Bay I saw a very fine specimen, and 
felt particularly relieved when I learned it was dead. 
By the roadside I saw two panthers, called tigres or tigers. 
They are the jaguars or ounces of South America, and are 
quite numerous here. They are of a tawny color, breast and 
belly almost white, while the body is variegated with black 
oblong spots ; are from four to five feet in length, and im- 
mensely powerful. They attack animals, but rarely man. 
The tigre negro, or black tiger, is larger, fiercer, and no 
doubt more powerful j it is of the same species, but scarce. 



ESTATE OP GEN. CHAMORRO. 51 

There are mountain cats, varieties of the tiger species, con- 
stantly roaming after fowl and other domestic attaches ; but 
they prove annoyances only, and are not to be dreaded. The 
coyote, or wild dog, is very scarce, though ihef exist in 
the mountain districts. They are said to be descendants 
of the Spanish bloodhounds, and are sometimes caught, 
but rarely, or never, tamed or domesticated. The bat is said 
by some to partake largely of the vampire. Many stories 
are told of them, drawing strongly on the marvelous. They 
are great enemies to horses, and worried mine much. He 
was a good-looking pony when I bought him ; but a sorrier- 
looking animal when sold, I never wish to see. " Oh ! agates 
and sassafras, stranger," said the sanguine Californian who 
made the purchase, " what a face ! It is made of patchwork 1 
He's the ugliest critter I ever see'd, and by thunder, I'll buy 
him for a specimen ;" and so he did. 

In the stirrup again, and after a brisk dash, a clearing is 
reached, in which an air of comfort reigns, strongly reminding 
me of some quiet nook in my own native land. It is a fine 
old estate belonging to the family of Gen. Chamorro, late 
President of Nicaragua. It commands a beautiful view of 
the surrounding country, and is just such a retreat as a states- 
man or warrior would be likely to seek after retiring from the 
cares of state. Here the outside world could be forgotten. 
Chamorro, sprung from an ancient and aristocratic family, was 



52 NICARAGUA. 

a prime mover in all public matters, and the Commander-in- 
chief of the forces during the revolution of 1850, and other 
wars since. He resided in the city of Granada. During my 
Btay there, the troops were regularly reviewed upon the plaza 
by him, and instructed in military drills. 

To an American eye, these troops presented a queer medley. 
No plumes waving, no gay banners, no brilliant uniforms, but 
a heterogeneous collection of shirts, bare legs, blanketed In- 
dians from the hills of Matagalpa and Segovia, all banded 
together under their respective leaders, and as seemingly uncon- 
scious of what was to be done, or to be expected, as they 
were regardless of exposing their natural beauties. Standing 
on the elevated places, and glancing along the line, reminded 
one of a worm-fence ; here protruded a knee ; there squatted a 
poor Indian, with bow in hand and arrows over his shoulders 
or by his side. Poor fellow I From the harangues of Kocha, 
the minister of war, he heard abundance as to ''human 
rights," but his experiences were only hardships, privations, 
and ceaseless labors. , 

The veterans were as illy accoutred, and were armed with 
condemned English muskets, about as dangerous at one end 
as the other. Besides being bad shots, their muskets were 
loaded with a cartridge six to seven inches long, so that the 
chances for life for the poor fellow who carried it, seemed 
to be increased in proportion to the fewer number of times he 



TROOPS — PAY — PUNISHMENTS. 53 

Lad to fire. Upon a march from place to place they pre- 
sented a strange appearance, as they came up a hill, or went 
plungmg through a ditch. Still, they are generally true to 
their leaders, and armed with their heavy scythe blades, are 
dangerous opponents. The horror of these gentry are the 
Colt's revolvers. They can witness a crack shot from a rifle 
with tolerable composure, but cannot stand the consecutive 
firing of these dread engines of war. 

During these revolutions, resort is had to every means for 
the enrolment of soldiers. The market-people are taken un- 
ceremonionsly from their wares, the sailors from their bongoes, 
the laboring classes from the ranchos and fields, and a general 
embargo is laid upon every man capable of shouldering oi 
lifting a musket. Those owning mules hide them, that their 
property may not be sacrificed for their country's good. 
Promises are made for payment, yet the issuing of State 
scrip has been so extensively carried on, that credit is at a 
low ebb. In perilous times, monopolies of tobacco, liquors, 
&c., are sold to the highest bidder ; but not unfrequently, 
should the war continue for a length of time, the State deems 
the consideration money insuflScient, and extra sums are 
demanded. 

Punishments are summarily inflicted in the army. One 
morning in Managua, as I strolled to the Lake beach, I ob- 
served an unusual crowd concentrating in the plaza. I asked 



54 NICARAGUA. 

what was going on, and was told that some thieves were to be 
publicly punished. The soldiery, probably five hundred in 
number, marshalled in due form, the files were opened, and 
the General-in-chief appeared, heralded with trumpets and 
drums, and supported by his staff. The criminals were 
brought from the cuartel, their hands bound behind them, 
and they were placed in a conspicuous position, to be seen by 
their comrades. A superior officer, after much drum-beating, 
read the charge and condemnation in a loud tone. Charge : 
" Stealing money and knives from certain persons." 

Two or three soldiers, at a signal, stepped from the ranks, 
and took off the shirts of the criminals. "Ground arms I" or 
its equivalent, ''Drop I" "Draw ramrods I" and certain other 
soldiers advanced. A temporary post was fixed firmly in the 
ground, to which the thieves were tied alternately, and the 
whippers commenced their exercise. The blows fell heavily, 
and the cries of the poor fellows smote upon my heart. 
Their crime merited punishment, yet the whip, in my opinion, 
is not the proper instructor, whereby a moral and lasting 
result is to be attained. 



CHAPTER VI. 

RIO OCHOMOGO — OLD STRUCTURE — ADOBE BUILDINGS : THEIR STRENGTH — 
OLD INDIGO PLANTATION — NANDYME — HORSEFLESH — PRICES — GAITS — HORSE- 
MANSHIP — MOMOBACHO — ITS ASCENT — GOLD MINE — LAKE ON THE SUMMIT — 
FRUITS ON THE ROAD-SIDE — DIRIOMO — OLD STATUE — LANDMARKS— CORN 
ESTATES — ANCIENT INDIGO PLANTATIONS — FIELDS OP VOLCANIC MATTER — 
GRANADA — THE ALERTE — MUSICAL ANALYSIS — SYMPATHY — THE SALVE 
REGINA — THE TRANSPARENCY — STRANGE EFFECT — HOME AND A HAMMOCK. 

Another stream, washing the sandy road ahead ; our nag 
scents the water, and reinvigorated, quickens his pace. This 
is the Rio Ochomogo, beyond which, on a hill-side, is a dilapi- 
dated old adobe structure, square in form, with open sides and 
tiled roof. It is used by the muleteers as a stopping-place, 
and is surrounded with dense forest trees, finer, as a body, than 
any we have yet seen. These adobe buildings will stand firm 
in a tropical climate, for many, many years, though time 
weighs heavily upon all things else. The rich earth producing 
immense crops of weeds and spontaneous vegetation, greatly 

(55) 



66 NICARAGUA. 

changes the appearance of a rancho in a very short time. A 
vine creeps over a high wall in a week, and in damp corners 
a vegetable mould will form so thick in two or three years, as 
to warrant a stranger in supposing it the work of half a cen- 
tury. I have read wonderful stories of Central America ; of 
estimates formed and deductions drawn relative to the age of 
a building, a temple, or a wall, from the immense mass of this 
mould collected thereon. A residence for a little time in this 
country will satisfy any observing man that too much care can- 
not be taken in weighing such a matter. 

An old indigo plantation is before us, now vacant, though 
the vats yet remain. The unsettled condition of the country 
has caused this, together with the great amount of expense and 
labor involved in raising so precious an article. , Still on, is a 
plain with calabash and forest trees margining the road, and 
at intervals screening a lovely landscape from the view. 
Beyond is the Indian village of Nandyme. Large outskirts 
flank the town, and the generality of the houses are of medium 
appearance. The land is more clayey, and at times slippery 
even during the dry season ; but in the wet, it is a break- 
neck ride to trot a mule over this road. Though mounted 
on a very fair animal, I met frequent mishaps in the way 
of slidings, stumblings, and fallings. Horseflesh here is 
valued pretty much according to gait ; a fine trotter can be 



HORSES AND HORSEMANSHIP — MULES. 57 

purchased for twenty to forty dollars ; while a pony that racks, 
paces or canters, will command one hundred. 

The Spaniard of Nicaragua is probably as much attached to 
his steed, as was the Castilian of yore. Their animals possess 
wind and bottom, and are remarkably strong,' but slow ; and 
few can excel in speed the fourth-rate horses of New York or 
Philadelphia. I had heard much of the horsemanship of these 
people, but saw little to boast of. The Nicaraguan can " stick" 
to a horse well enough, but there is many a country lad of 
fifteen with us who can beat him. 

For endurance, these horses are unexcelled ; they are small, 
compact and reliable, but a great majority of them sprung in 
the knees, rendering them unsafe as hackneys. The mules are 
well-bred, and preserve their gait better than the horses ; they 
are small and can safely be trusted with the rein over the 
craggiest or most slippery camino real. The precision of his 
step in descending a hill-side is wonderful. Where no man 
could walk without slipping, the mule jogs easily along, his 
head bent down, and his long ears flapping to and fro, a 
perfect picture of easy carelessness. His foot once planted, 
give him the rein and trust to him. He lives upon scanty 
allowance, braves all weathers, endures any amount of 
privations, sleeps well, works well, and is ready for his burden 
and his journey at the appointed hour. The cruel muleteer 
spurs him up with a spike, fixed in the end of a long spear. 



58 NICARAGUA. 

On our left rises the defunct volcano of Momobacho, lined 
with dark masses of mould-covered lava ; its side bare of trees, 
and exposing a tremendous orifice. There is said to be a 
small lake on its side, and one on its summit, each studded 
with gold fish. The ascent of this volcano, from a distance 
seems gradual and easy, but is found on trial to be almost im- 
practicable. In 1849, a few Americans tried it, and after 
much toil and severe privations, planted the " Stars and 
stripes" (Upon its very summit. On the inland side, years 
past, it is said, was a valuable gold mine, yielding bountifully ; 
but during a volcanic eruption it was buried, and so remains. 
I was told by old inhabitants, that Momobacho formerly 
had but one peak ; now there are two points of elevation, joined 
by an intervening mass. The Lake on its summit is said to 
be a quarter of a mile long and half a mile wide. Momo- 
bacho looms grandly up, and can be seen in clear weather 
even from the Jalteva of Granada. 

The country through which our road leads us becomes more 
rolling, and huts, corn-fields, plantain and mango groves in- 
crease. Palm and orange trees appear in quick succession. 
The lemon fills the air with its fragrance ; fruits of various 
descriptions hang from the overladen boughs ; while the tall 
cocoa, running spirelike into the blue ether, is relieved by 
floating clouds. 

Diriomo, an Indian pueblo, lies three leagues from Granada. 



DIRIOMO — GRANADA AGAIN. 69 

It is a pretty spot : its cane huts with thatched roofs peer 
out from amid the graceful though dense foliage of the orange 
and banana trees, while on either side extends a lot of ground 
suflBcient to afford fruits and vegetables for the entire family. 
Near by stands a stone figure, browned with age and neglect, 
probably used as a boundary between municipalities. These 
landmarks are religiously respected ; and as a general thing, the 
definition of " meum and teum" is understood and appreciated, 
though if we credit the reports of travelers, thefts and rob- 
beries here are of frequent occurrence. 

Corn estates are principally relied on now, though from 
the remains of indigo plantations adjoining Granada, con- 
siderable quantities of this article must have been produced at 
a former period. The native article of Nicaragua is very valu- 
able, and commands a high price. It is generally purchased 
by foreign merchants, at the annual fair of San Miguel, 
and forwarded to Europe. Again we meet vast fields of 
volcanic matter ; in some places pulverized and yielding, in 
others, loose, hard, and rolling under our horse's feet. 

We strike the road entering into the plaza of Granada at 
an early evening hour, and answer the challenge of the stirring 
and watchful sentinels. The voices of the people seem 
strange, comparing somewhat with a parrot's notes. The 
tones are drawn out or prolonged, and the word of three syl- 
lables has a finale not pleasing to the ear. The sentry's 



60 NICARAGUA. 

" alerte," or cry, rings distinctly on the air, and is as musical 
as the chirp of the mocking-bird in the moonlit eves of a 
northern clime. It is composed of notes designated in melodic 
order, as the third, the eighth, and the fifth of the common 
major chord. There seems to exist a certain chain of sym- 
pathy between people of the same caste, in widely separated 
climes. Recall to memory the old cry of the watchman in our 
country villages of the United States. When the snow lay 
clustering upon the roof-tops, and mantled all nature with its 
spotless shroud, how clear, cheerful, and distinct did the cry 
of the patrol break. upon the ear, " Ten," or " Twelve o'clock !" 
Analyze it ; it commences on the fifth, ascending to the tenth, 
or third above the octave, and ends on the eighth of the com- 
mon major chord. And so the rosy strawberry woman at the 
door, basket in hand, for whose song the maid stops to listen. 
You hear her silvery tones pervading your sanctum, " Straw- 
ber-ries I" It commences on the key note, and the last syl- 
lable ends with crescendo, and diminuendo on its octave or 
eighth. The "attenta la guardia," of the Italian sentinel has 
its peculiar sweetness ; and we might instance a variety of 
others, all logically leading us to a sympathetic affinity between 
such public characters in every clime. 

"Alerte" was always grateful to my ears ; it was indefinite, 
not conclusive ; swinging in my hammock, puffing a native 
cigar, it was an ever ending to begin again, an expectation of a 
resolution never resolved. 



THE SALVE REGINA — HOME AND A HAMMOCK. 61 

The heavy buzzards slept cozily on tlie tiled roofs of La 
Mercedes, as I threw off my philosophical mantle, and leaving 
musical matters at home, attracted by sweet sounds, I strolled 
far down the street. Approaching, I found several musicians 
accompanied by their violins, chanting the beautiful " Salve 
E-egina." An hombre carried a transparency, upon which was 
rudely limned the image of the infant Saviour resting in the 
Virgin's lap. At the door of the house before which they 
stood, were men, women, and children, kneeling and devoutly 
counting their rosaries. A mother raising her little child 
toward the Imaged Creator, muttered a prayer in unison with 
the common melody, and quietly dropped a tribute into the 
hand of a collector who accompanied them. This custom is 
general, and shows how strongly exist the elements of music 
in this strange, eventful, but neglected land. A spirit of 
harmony pervades all nature, and a master's touch would educe 
from discord, strife, and jealousies, twin-born love, peace and 
good-will toward man. 

I turned homeward, threw myself into a hammock, and blew 
out the light ; the world outside grew dimmer and dimmer, 
images and fancies less distinct ; memories became confused, 
and the pall of Somnus gathered heavily over my senses. 
Good-night to all. The cool air took possession of my room, 
and I sank into temporary oblivion. 



CHAPTER VII. 

the houses of nicaragua — size — appearance — adobes — size — form — 
material — cement — wells — water — money, value of — trade — bon- 
goes — national vessels — the orus and director steamers — manners 
and customs — belfry of la mercedes — the sharpshooter — his death 
— Sandoval's estate — indigo plantation — the lake — oranges and 
mangoes — corn — sacate — pine-apples — jocotes — a beautiful estate 
• — cost — intemperance — virtues — cloths — socks — sickness — physic 

AND LAW. 

The edifices of Nicaragua merit more than a passing notice ; 
to me they were entirely novel ; the architecture, though pos- 
sessing its own peculiar character, partakes of the Moresque. 
They are built round a hollow square, and are only of one 
Btory in height, as elsewhere observed. The tiled roofs sloping 
to the street, are inwardly supported by posts, sometimes 
of polished iron, mahogany or other wood. At the inside 
corners of the roof, gutters are formed for conducting the rain 
water into tanks, placed in the yard. This is by far the best 
(62) 



NICARAGUA HOUSES. 63 

agua to be had in the country. The apartments open upon this 
hollow-patio, and are lighted by large barred-windows, which 
project, and in which two or three persons may sit and chat very 
cosily. Entirely independent of the main house, is the kitchen, 
which adjoins the stable. Neither of these are enclosed, and 
the fodder, corn, and manure, lie in threatening proximity to 
the comestibles preparing for the table. The houses are built 
of 'adobes. These are formed into blocks about twenty-two 
inches long, nine thick, and nine wide, made of a tenacious 
earth or clay, mixed with fine reeds, tough grass, or straw, 
which possesses durability against the tropical rains and storms. 
Some of the poorer houses thus constructed, are considered 
entirely finished ; but those of the wealthier classes are plastered 
with a close mould, resembling a clayey-marl, soft and yield- 
ing, which, upon receiving several coats of white paint, re- 
sembles marble. I can describe it, perhaps, more satisfactorily, 
by calling it mineral- mortar. Such a cement was discovered 
by the conquerors of Peru. Many of the dwellings in the latter 
country seem to have been constructed without cement ; and 
therefore it has been contended by some writers, that mortar, 
or cement of any kind, was unknown to them. But such a 
mould as above described, mixed with lime, may sometimes 
be found filling up the interstices of the granite, brick, or 
porphyry structures ; and in others, where the blocks fitted 
precisely, and left no vacancy for this coarser material, the eye 



64 NICARAGUA. 

of the antiquary detects a fine glue, bituminous in its character, 
as hard as the rock itself, Humboldt, who analyzed the 
cement of the ancient structures at Cannar, says that it is a 
true mortar, formed of a mixture of pebbles and a clayey- 
marl ; and Father Yelasco is in raptures with *' an almost im- 
perceptible cement," made of lime a'nd a bituminous substance 
resembling glue, which incorporated stones so as to hold them 
firmly together, like one solid mass, leaving nothing visible to 
the eye of the common observer. This glutinous composition, 
mixed with pebbles, was used for macadamized roads, much 
prized by the Incas, as hard and almost as smooth as marble. 

The houses differ as much in appearance as in size. Many 
of them are at least seventy feet front, and more, and probably 
one hundred and fifty feet deep. Wells, now almost dry, are 
found in the courts, of immense depths. The one in the yard of 
the house I resided in, was at least one hundred feet deep, and I 
have seen others exceeding this. Whether they were of yore 
rigged with the windlass, I could not determine, yet I found 
no notches in the well-wall to justify any such belief; and I 
have always seen a rope used, which was drawn up and 
lowered by hand. Water, as a beverage, is an extra in every 
town in the State. It is brought from the Lake by the mucha- 
chas, in large jars, who indeed move very gracefully 
along, bearing their cantaros and tinajas upon their heads. 
The price for a certain number of these daily, is ten cents, 



CURRENCY AND TRADE. 65 

or probably twenty-five cents per week. Two dimes are equal 
to twenty-five cents, as in the Southern States of America ; 
and at times American gold can be purchased, reckoning eight 
dimes to the dollar. This is the currency from the Lake to 
the Pacific, but not at Greytown or San Juan del Norte. 
Merchants from the interior purchasing from, or trading with 
those at Greytown, stipulate the currency to be used, and thus 
avoid breaches of contract and other annoying mishaps. 

Trade is carried on in bongos, a rude boat, made out of a 
large log; though small-sized canal boats have been built, 
which are not safer or swifter, but are more capacious. Lake 
Nicaragua is far from being a placid sheet of water. Squalls, 
. violent and sudden, sweep from Ometepec's heights, and for a 
moment every thing is in confusion. I have been in a bongo, 
during one of these changes, and have seen two water-spouts, 
each of which threatened to engulf us. The natives are swim- 
mers — not sailors ; their oars are not long, but have only small 
paddles at the extremities, instead of the usual oar-blades, so 
requisite for speed and power. Yet the progress made against 
tide with such aids, is at times very remarkable. There are 
also sailing bongos, but these are not managed with skill ; 
and whenever the mariners find that safety depends upon " light- 
ening" their crafts, they plunge overboard, and cling and swim 
alternately, till the elements have calmed. The • first steam- 
boat which was introduced upon the waters of Nicaragua, was 
5 



66 NICARAGUA. 

the Orus ; slie was wrecked on the Machuca Kapids. The 
second was the Director, and the Company owning it, succeeded 
in warping her over the Kapids. Subsequently it plied upon 
the Lake, and for years was the sole transport for the passen- 
gers from San Carlos to Yirgin Bay. The increase of the 
business of the Transit Company, however, induced the ex- 
portation from New York of the " Central America," and 
other steam vessels. 

But to return. The buildings are comfortable, and require 
ceilings only to render them all that could be desired as re- 
treats from the rain or sun. They are the coolest I ever lived 
in ; while one avoids that abominable nuisance, the climbing 
up flights of steps. The wood-work is stanch; every house 
being a fortress per se, though not in every instance imper- 
vious to a musket ball, for the casa in which the American 
minister resided, while in Leon, had been riddled by those 
of the revolutionists a short time prior to his arrival. In the 
early part of the present revolution, the belfry of the church 
of La Mercedes was used by a celebrated sharpshooter, of 
Chamorro, who from this eyrie singled out, ad libitum, the 
Americans encamped in the suburbs of the city. A diversion 
having been made, however, by the forces under General 
MuSoz, for the ostensible purpose of intercepting a party con- 
veying powder and provisions to the town, the antagonists 
met suddenly on neutral ground ; and the wretch who had been 



THE SHARPSHOOTER — SANDOVAL'S ESTATE. . (S^ 

assassinating his friends and countrymen, fell, pierced with 
avenging bullets. His funeral was solemnized with all the 
pomp of the church — the army attended "en masse," and the 
deepest sorrow pervaded the city. The death of this notorious 
villain brought matters to a climax ; battle succeeded battle, 
until General Muiioz was shot at Masaya, with other brave 
fellows. Then followed Chamorro's death, and a new 
regime. 

Passing out of the plaza, upon the South, is a good road 
over a rolling and gradually ascending country ; a mile's ride 
brings you to a gate. Dismount I A lane leads to a casa 
perched on a beautiful eminence, commanding a view of the 
Lake, Granada, and the country for many miles around. It is 
Sandoval's estate, an old indigo plantation. The vats are dry, 
but yet remain in good order. From the mansion in front, 
are seen fields of luxuriant, wild indigo. Upon the rear 
is a deep ravine, leading to level ground which margins the 
Lake. We descend slowly. Here, stretch beautiful lemon 
groves ; there, nod the grateful orange trees, filling the air with 
suffocating fragrance, while the arched mangoes, heavy with 
golden fruit, complete as sweet a picture as the heart of the 
most romantic could desire. Fields of corn are rustling be- 
yond. The fodder, or sacate, is bundled up and taken on 
mules to the city, where a dime is charged for a small sheaf. 



68 NICARAGUA. 

This fodder, under certain circumstances, is the best crop, 
as it commands a good price and ready sale. 

Pine-apples and other fruits are abundant, the white and 
the yellow ; I must not overlook the jocote, a species of 
apricot, without its sweetness. It is peculiar in flavor, and the 
taste is to be acquired ; for I could not eat one at first, but 
after a time always had my pockets full. They are sold at five 
cents per small basket. The beautiful estate alluded to I 
could have purchased for about twelve hundred dollars. There 
were three hundred acres, well cultivated, with good barn and 
other buildings, indigo vats included. But there was one mis- 
fortune — securing operatives to till it regularly, for natives are 
not always to be depended upon. Their wages are only ten 
cents per day, and after they have received a dollar or two, 
great difficulty is experienced in inducing them to remain. 
Remember, a piece of cheese, a lump of brown sugar, and a 
corn-cake compose the larder of these hombres ; and what a 
pile a dollar would purchase ! The vice of intemperance is not 
indigenous. It is an imported article ; and a shame it is, that 
on such soil should have been sown the curses of wine-bibbing, 
with so many other unmanly vices, and that so few of the virtues 
have as yet been introduced. I do not believe the race to be 
entirely lost, as some others profess to do. I have found much 
talent, and many virtues there — much good old-fashioned 
common sense, and have experienced many kindnesses from 



CLOTHING, PHYSIC, AND LAW. 69 

those strangers to me ; and where a single good seed has takeu 
root, I will not condemn a nation for private wrongs or private 
prejudices. 

There can be found in Granada, almost every thing desired. 
Clothes are dearer than in the United States. Cloths at a 
very moderate figure, looser in the web than ours, having 
been manufactured expressly for this market, and are both 
cooler and more elastic. Socks, shirtings, &c., are plentiful, 
but far from cheap. Medicines are dear, fruits cheap. Law- 
yers are abundant, and must be well and frequently fee'd. This 
is a co-relative of other civilized nations ; and those who go 
often to the Forum will learn, at least, many of the ways, if at 
all attentive and cute, by which living is made easy in a few 
lessons. 

As a general thing, physic is not in much repute, save in 
slight cases of fever, cold, and other minor diseases. Travelers 
will eat and drink immoderately, or expose themselves at 
night or mid-day, either of which are equally injudicious ; 
they then upbraid the climate, and neglect to call folly by 
its right name; but not to do that would be consistent, 
and inconsistency consists in being consistent so far as affects 
our desires or appetites. Then we can afford to grumble and 
revile a country, generous in its pleasures, and gentle in re- 
proofs. Were foreigners to care for themselves and guard 
against changes and seasons as they do when at home, a resi- 



*!0 NICARAGUA. 

dence in Nicaragua would prove beneficial to many who are 
now feeding young apothecaries, and who are emptying box 
after box of some patent vegetable vermifuge, or new-fangled 
elixir, which robs us of the little stomach that fast living at 
home leaves many of us at thirty years of age. 



CHAPTER VIIL 

RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS — ST. JAMES' DAY — SAN IGNATIUS DE LOYOLA — TRANSIT 
OP THE VIRGIN — THE CORPUS — ST. PETER AND THE HOLY KEYS — IMAGES — 
SANTA THERESA — COCHINEAL PLANTATIONS — MODE OP CULTURE AND PREPA- 
RATION OP IT FOR MARKET — COFFEE — ITS CULTIVATION — SUGAR — INDIGO- 
AMOUNT OP HARVEST — TOBACCO — AMOUNT RAISED — PROFITS — GUNPOWDER 
AND OTHER GOVERNMENT MONOPOLIES — ARTICLES OP MANUFACTURE — ARTIF- 
ICERS IN GOLD AND SILVER — OPPOSITE GRANADA — CATTLE ESTATES — 
CATCHING CATTLE — THE PETA-EUIJA — FIGS AND OLIVES — A HINT. 

It would be an almost hopeless task to properly describe 
tbe mauy religious festivals of the people of this country. 
I entered some of the "occasions," however, in my Diary, 
which were new to me, and may be of inteifest to the reader. 
St. lago, or St. James, is the patron saint of the Americas, 
as also of Gallicia, in Spain ; and on this day, July 26th, all 
the shops are closed. He drove out the Moors from Gallicia, 
tradition says, appearing on a white horse before the armies 
of the Christian. The celebration of the feast of San Igna- 

(n) 



'12 NICARAGUA. 

tias de Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit Order, is upon the 
30th day of July. The altar is dressed with artificial flowers, 
and on this the image of the founder is placed. August 13th is 
the celebration of the Transit of the Yirgin. In every house an 
altar is erected in the sala or parlor, and recitations are per- 
formed from three to four in the afternoon. Upon a cushion, 
covered with gold lace and spangles, lies the image of the 
dead Yirgin. She is clothed in gold and spangles ; prayers 
are recited to her before the image, and two waxen candles 
are kept burning, in silver candlesticks, though sometimes 
brass or glass is used. This altar is to be illuminated for 
fifteen successive nights ; and in addition to the prayers already 
named, others are said every night at eight o'clock. 

The Corpus, which takes place in June, is, however, the most 
remarkable, and of course all business is suspended. About 
ten in the morning, a cavalcade moves from the church. A 
troop of military, with funereal measure, leads the way, who 
are followed by six girls, fancifully dressed, bearing large 
wax candles, and accompanied by the "big drum," borne on 
the back of a grotesquely-accoutred Indian, and beaten by 
two others. Then follow men with wooden platforms on 
their shoulders, on which are images of saints. Then, repre- 
sentations of beatified cardinals and bishops, escorted by 
angels with spread wings. Then, an immense statue of St. 
Peter, supported on both sides by angels, bearing the holy 



COCHINEAL PLANTATIONS. T3 

keys. Then other images in succession precede the Host, 
which is carried under a gorgeous canopy, accompanied 
by the bishop and clergy. Other groups still follow; the 
military bringing up the rear. Passing round, the plaza, the 
procession stops at every corner, where altars are erected, 
covered with artificial flowers, wax candles, and looking- 
glasses, while the spectators kneel on either side. Sky-rockets 
signal the setting out from and return to the church, and the 
houses by which the Host passes are hung with red silk or 
cloth. As in all Spanish and Catholic countries, images are 
much venerated. At Yiejo, near Leon, is one of the Yirgin, 
which is visited on a particular day in February. It is 
traditioned as being the gift of the Immaculate Yirgin, Santa 
Theresa. 

We had intended to add a few more particulars relative to 
the productions of this State, as well as to notice those of 
States adjoining, for the products of all are similar. The 
Dopaleras, or cochineal plantations of Nicaragua, have dwindled 
into insignificance ; but there are still small tracts in many 
haciendas which are given to the cultivation of this article. 
A piece of ground is carefully fenced in with parallel rows 
of prickly pear, the cactus cochinillifer, or common Indian fig. 
Immediately after the rains have ceased, the cactus, an insect, 
is sown upon the plant. Twelve of these are collected with 
a feather, from the parent, enclosed all together in a small 



74 NICARAGUA. 

bag of the maize leaf, left open, and pinned with a thorn to 
the leaf of the cactus. Seven or eight bags are placed on 
different leaves of the same plant. In a short time the in- 
sects begin to breed in the bags, and the young ones crawl 
out upon the plant. As they grow, they gradually cover them- 
selves with a mantle of white paste, which protects them from 
the weather, and in the course of three mouths they are ready 
for gathering. This is done by scraping the leaf; and after 
a sufficient number have been reserved for seed, the rest are 
either placed upon tins in a large oven, or thrown into hot 
water. When dried, they assume the appearance of small 
grains, and are ready for market. A second crop is then 
sown, and in three months another harvest is reaped, after 
which the seed is preserved, by covering the plant till the 
rainy season is passed. After four or five years, from the 
great quantity of nourishment extracted by these insects, the 
cactus decays. It is then rooted up, and a new plant suc- 
ceeds. The female of this insect is the true cochineal, though 
there are two other species in the market. Dried, pounded, 
and prepared, it is sold under the name of carmine. 

Coffee is cultivated to no very great extent, though the 
crop of Guatemala has produced one million of dollars in a 
single year. If the land be properly drained, the coffee-tree 
lives to an old age. It begins to bear at three years, and is 
in its prime at seven. At five, the top branches are pruned 



CULTIVATION OP COFFEE. T5 

oflF. Every branch droops downward. In Brazil, the tree 
bears two crops annually : the largest in spring, the smallest 
in fall. The first is picked when the berry is red ; the second, 
generally small, is allowed to remain until fully dry and ripe. 
This crop cured in the husk is very superior in quality, and 
is called "pearl coffee," the blossom being small and tender. 
It remains three or four days on the tree. If the weather be 
warm and showery during these few days, the crop is sure, 
but if cool at night, it often fails. The berry being carried 
home, is taken to the millhouse. The mill consists of three 
small rollers. The berry is put into a hopper, and a con- 
stant stream of water falls on the rollers during the time 
the mill is in operation. By this process the outside hull is 
taken off and separated from the berry. The coffee falls into 
a brick tank, where, after being washed and perfectly cleaned, 
it is put away, and covered with tile or brick raised in the 
centre for the water to drain. It is then taken to the curing- 
loft, where it is turned four times per day, until the hull is 
dry and crisp. When it is fanned, the inside hull comes off, 
and the berry is ready for market. 

The principal source of the early prosperity of Guatemala 
was the cultivation of cocoa, which was produced in immense 
quantities, and of superior quality. The province of Nicara- 
gua is said to have exclusively supplied San Salvador and 
Comayagua. About the beginning of the seventeenth century, 



76 NICARAGUA, 

however, the shores of Central America were devastated by 
the repeated incursions of the Buccaneers, who massacred the 
inhabitants, destroyed the plantations, and compelled the 
proprietors to seek shelter in the interior. This, together 
with the excessive duties imposed by the Spanish government, 
and the expense and difficulties of land carriage, has caused a 
vast diminution in the production of the article. 

The cultivation of sugar shared the same fate, as also indigo, 
notwithstanding their acknowledged superior qualities. During 
the interval from 1T90 to 1818 inclusive, the Central Ameri- 
can States produced 13,346,640 pounds of sugar; and it will 
be borne in mind that in 1Y91-2-3, alone, 3,304,250 pounds 
were harvested. Cochineal, the cultivation of which was un- 
known till 1821, yields an immense revenue. Guatemala pro- 
duces larger amounts than any other State in the Confedera- 
tion, reaching, in 1826, to 90,000 pounds. 

Tobacco is raised, but little except for home consumption ; 
though in San Salvador 70,000 pounds have been exported in 
a single year, and from 80,000 to 100,000 from Honduras. 
The clear profit to the nation, from 1815 to 1819 inclusive, 
was $1,594,441. 

Cotton is raised in great quantities, and is superior in 
quality, supplying home wants, and also leaving a margin for 
exportation to the provinces of Mexico. 

Gunpowder, saltpetre, tobacco, lead, shot, and liquors, are 



CATTLE ESTATES. *J*J 

all government monopolies. Hats, shoes, sadcllerj, jewelry, 
. fancy articles, earthenware, and pottery, are manufactured, 
though not to a very great extent. The artificers in gold and 
silver in Nicaragua are extremely ingenious and skillful, and 
exhibit great taste and experience in the manufacture of 
ornaments. 

A visit to the cattle estates, on the opposite shore of the 
Lake from Granada, will richly repay the traveler. Over the 
fine, fertile pasture lands of a single hacienda, roam a thousand 
cattle, and an equal number of horses and mules, though gen- 
erally inferior in quality. When a sale has been effected, the 
major-domo summons his men to "lazo" the chosen stock. 

The horses are saddled, and one end of the lazo — made of 
twisted thongs of hide — is bound round the tail of each horse, 
care being first taken to prevent the flesh from becoming lace- 
rated by subsequent friction. The rider gathers the loose end 
of the cord in his hand. He approaches the bull, who, finding 
himself singled out, starts away at full speed, but the horse, 
accustomed to the game, runs as though aware of every wind- 
ing the bull may make. Coming within the desired distance, 
the lazo is whirled with great dexterity over the bull's horns, 
and on the instant the horse wheels, and the bull, starting 
rapidly off, is thus thrown upon his haunches. Should he 
prove fractious, he is turned on his back and firmly tied. At 
times, however, the enraged bull, driven to extremities, lowers 



IS NICARAGUA. 

his head, as though aware of the object of his pursuer, and 
retreats to a close place, from whence suddenly wheeling he 
makes battle. These estates are immense, and very frequently 
the cattle and horses exceed the number here given, though 
during the few past years every thing has shared the same 
eventful fate — neglect. 

Among the countless fruits is one I have never seen de- 
scribed, but which is by no means common ; and why it should 
not be more extensively cultivated, I cannot imagine. It is 
called the peta-huija. It grows upon a bush about the size 
of the pine-apple plant. The fruit is nearly as large as an 
ordinary ruta-baga turnip, in form like the strawberry, having 
a complete covering of leaves or folds, which overlap each 
other like the different pieces of a coat of mail. It is a deep 
carmine in color, full of small, black, round seeds, when cut 
open. The meat of the fruit is sweet and soft, and in taste 
resembles the flavor of the raspberry. When sliced, sugared, 
and baked with wine, it is extremely luscious. It is held in 
great esteem, though I never met with it but once during my 
stay in the country, and this was at Granada. 

Figs and olives would flourish here to perfection, as well as 
the grape ; and there is no reason why wines should not be 
manufactured fully equal to the superior article of Peru and 
Chili. The first olive was carried from Andalusia to Peru in 
1560, by Antonio de Ribera, of Lima. Tlie jocotcs, referred 



FiaS, OLIVES, AND JOCOTES. TO 

to among the different fruits, are said by writers generally to 
be a species of plum, but I rather class it as an olive in 
color, meat, texture, size, and in some instances in similarity 
of taste. Our present limits will not permit us more extended 
latitude amid the fruits and productions, which subject we 
leave for the present with regret. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE MALACCAS — CULTIVATION OF THE CACAO — DESCRIPTION OF A CACAO ESTATE 

— AN UGLY FISSURE OUTSIDE GRANADA — A SHOCK OF AN EARTHQUAKE 

SPECULATIONS IN CASE OF EMERGENCY — LAKE POYO — DELIGHTFUL JAUNT 

A LAKE COMO — A CUP OF TISTE — ITS USE — PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY 

CIGARS — MAIZE — AGUARDIENTE — EFFECTS OF NOT TO BE MISTAKEN 

WHEAT — MINERALS — GOLD, SILVER, AND COPPER MINES OF DEPILTA — THE 
CHONTALES MINING DISTRICTS — MATAGALPA — PAYNTER — THE CENTRAL 
STATES — THEIR MINES — ACCOUNT OF HONDURAS AND SAN SALVADOR — COSTA 
RICA — COAL — "WANT OF MACHINERY, MEANS, AND ENTERPRISE. 

Five miles from Granada is a cacao estate known as " The 
Malaccas." The ride from the city is over a level comitrj, 
studded with white cacti and flowering shrubs. This planta- 
tion may be considered a fair sample of that which proper 
culture and industry may accomplish.' The cacao is cultivated 
extensively, but is very rarely exported. That of this State is 
considered very superior, and is worth three times the price 
of that raised at Guyaquil. The tree is delicate, and requires 
(80) 



DESCRirTION OF A CACAO ESTATE. 81 

great attention, though it repays every expense lavished upon 
it. It bears in seven years, produces two crops annually, and 
its yield is perfect in its fifteenth season. It grows to the 
height of twenty feet, its leaves are large and pointed, and it 
bears a small red flower. The pod contains about fifty beans. 
The shoots are planted fourteen feet apart, and are shaded by 
the plantain and the coral tree; the latter is called ''The 
Mother of the Cacao," and shields the nursling from the glow- 
ing sun-rays. The cacao drops its bright crimson leaves 
about the beginning of April. It is indigenous ; one laborer 
will attend one thousand trees, which will yield an annual 
income of three hundred dollars. Its beans are in circulation 
in the absence of smaller pieces of money than the media, and 
are of the value of one cent. A visit to the Malaccas is full 
of information. Its graveled roads are margined with mango 
groves, laden with golden fruit ; and being perfectly free 
from weeds or underbrush, resemble a public square in Phila- 
delphia. 

Beyond the limits of Granada, upon the right, there is a 
large chasm, where a bridge spans the Camino real. It is. 
the result of an eruption of the volcano of Masaya, in 1529, 
more of which we will give in another place. Your head 
grows giddy as you stand on its brink, gazing far down the 
dark abyss. The stones thrown within this yawning gulf 
bounded from crag to crag, while from far below came the 
6 



82 NICARAGUA. 

echoes, faint and fainter, till tliey ceased. I should judge 
its width to be from twelve to fifteen feet, and probably one 
hundred yards or more in length. 

One eve, while lying in my hammock, and about sinking 
into a pleasant slumber, I felt myself bumping against my 
neighbor, and turned, thinking he desired to attract my at- 
tention. Again, while talking, the motion was repeated. 
Mutually we sprang for the candle. Hearing a bustle in the 
street, we opened the door, to find the inhabitants abroad, 
and expecting a grand crash. Here was a dilemma. Senoritas 
in distress, with dishevelled hair and terrified appearance, 
appealing for aid, and yet none could be rendered. The 
shocks, however, soon ceased, and we gladly returned to our 
hammocks. 

About the same distance from the city, a road winds through 
a forest of trees of most beautiful symmetry, and arched groves 
of mango, to an eminence visible through a cluster of palms, 
whence the path leads to an indefinite conclusion. The eye 
cannot pierce the heavy shroud of dense foliage ahead or on 
either hand. Carefully our horses tread this shelving inclina- 
tion, reminding one of " Old Putnam's" riding scene in the 
melo-draraa. The loose stones, becoming detached under the 
horse's feet, rattle down the precipice to the right. We hear 
a splash ; another moment, and the gorgeous Lake Poyo bursts 
upon us, fully equaling those of the fairy tales in appearance. 



THE BEAUTIFUL LAKE POYO. 83 

This sheet of water is oblong, about three miles in length by 
two in width, the banks inclining around it. The air is heavy 
with the incense of countless flowers, mingled with the orange 
and lemon, while playing over our heads are gay-winged 
parrots, paroquets, and the really magnificent macaw. The 
water is very clear, and impregnated with sulphur. Not a 
hut is to be seen. It has an exit in a small stream on the left 
border, and is an inviting solitude for a bath. 

The lake is full of gold fish, which we can see distinctly 
finning along, their gleaming scales relieved by the white 
sandy bottom. Oh, what a paradise is here before us 1 As 
fair a picture as e'er was tinted on an easel. There, rise soft 
hills, voluptuously falling to the water's edge, and in the ascent 
flowing to a graceful height, margining a sheet of wondrous 
beauty. The whispering leaves breathe happiness ; the birds 
skimming the rippling-basin seem ignorant of the world be- 
yond, and wing close to us, as though they feel we are 
strangers, and come to welcome us to their sweet retreat. 
Such is Lake Poyo, calm, clear, truly beautiful — the em- 
bodiment, the realization of Bulwer's "Lake of Como," 
where every floating cloudlet hath its mirror, and every wind 
hies to kiss its surface. I gaze back as I mount into the 
saddle, reluctant to quit it ; and now, seen through an interval 
of time, I still deem it one of the loveliest of my foreign 
memories. 



84 NICARAGUA. 

We breast the hill and gain the plain, turn through another 
path to a glade of brown-leaved trees, and reach a raneho 
embowered in a quiet, cosy niche, removed from the glare 
of the angry sun. Here, on either side, are pine-apples 
in abundance. The bush whereon they grow is only about 
four feet high, guarded by sharp leaves, which punish a hasty 
intrusion. A cup of tiste is prepared for us, and we wander 
back to the house. Tiste is composed of roasted or parched 
corn, ground sugar, and cacao, and is rolled in long sticks like 
pomatum. This is carried about by the marineros and travel- 
ers ; for by putting it into a tin cup, adding water, and stirring 
with a spoon, a delicious and cool beverage is instantly at 
hand. In cases of dysentery it is very beneficial ; and this, 
with the milk of the young cocoa-nut, is generally used, and 
found highly beneficial. 

We may now notice more particularly some of the produc- 
tions of Nicaragua. Coffee has been but little cultivated, 
though in Costa Rica it forms a prominent source of wealth, 
and the return has been as high as one million dollars per 
annum ; the necessary expenses for labor being but nominal — 
from a dime to two dimes per day. Indigo has also been 
neglected lately. The plant is said to be indigenous, though 
there is a cultivated species, and the quality is unsurpassed. 

Tobacco is cultivated; and that which is raised upon 
Ometepec, in Lake Nicaragua, is said to rival fully the 



SUGAR-CANE AND AGUARDIENTE. 85 

Havana, though I was not very favorably impressed upon my 
arrival, with either the make or flavor of their cigars. I 
found them loosely rolled, and the tobacco very imperfectly 
cured; but "homeward-bound" Californians have taught the 
natives how a better article can be manufactured. Prime 
cigarros can now be purchased, though at advanced rates. 
Maize flourishes very abundantly. 

The native species of sugar-cane is very different from that 
cultivated elsewhere. It contains more saccharine matter. 
Two crops are grown annually, and it requires replanting 
only once in fourteen years. From this is manufactured the 
great drink of the country, " aguardiente," which is strong as 
Hercules, and like lightning in its effect. If you desire to 
have a friendly tipple upon it, there is no mistaking your 
position for the morrow. You are certain to be "tight" 
enough; and equally certain that your friend will be as 
" oblivious" as yourself. 

Cotton is raised to a considerable extent, but is generally 
manufactured for home consumption. Some years past it 
formed an article of export. Rice is also cultivated, but not 
exported. Wheat is grown in the Segovia district, where 
the climate resembles that of the Middle States of America. 
These are the principal articles of value, though it possesses 
an enormous wealth of cabinet and dye-woods, mines of 
precious metals, rivers of considerable extent, whose banks 



86 NICARAGUA. 

require only willing arms to reclaim them from entire neglect ; 
and I cannot believe that the far-seeing, thrifty American who 
has partially scanned this hitherto sealed book, will not refer 
to some of its bright pages when he shall have returned to his 
home, and ere many years shall have circled, I predict that 
many listeners to his strange truths will emigrate to this rude 
Eden, prepared for labor. Its minerals are gold, silver, 
copper, and iron ; lead, nearly virginal, has been found, fully 
ninety per cent., and the residue silver. The district of Sego- 
via is famed for its mineral wealth. Rich washings have 
been worked by the Indians at Matagalpa, as also copper 
mines, which latter yield from thirty-three to forty per cent, 
of metal. 

In the district of Nicoya, many evidences of wealth exist, 
and gold has been brought to Granada and other cities from 
there, by the Indians and traders. The silver mines are 
numerous, the veins broad but irregular, and yield from 
twenty-five to ninety per cent. Those of Depilta, in the 
north, have been worked to advantage, though the ores 
average not more than two per cent., and yet the returns in 
one year, and that, too, under all the disadvantages of open- 
ing the mines, sinking shafts, &c., were about six thousand 
pounds of silver. The gold is of fine quality ; the washings 
are more than fair, on an average, even to a Californian, who 
has been led to expect heavy results, and I accept his testi- 



MINES OF CIIONTALES — POOR PAYNTER. 8t 

mony without any hesitation, for he had only to pull up 
stakes if dissatisfied, and journey on to the land of promise — . 
Home. 

Many miners have crossed the Lake, and entered the 
Chontales district. In its almost unexplored streams, they 
have found abundant evidences of wealth ; but illy provided 
with tools, provisions, and boats, they conld not give that 
time to the matter which probably will be bestowed hereafter. 
I piloted a party across and waited for'' them three days ; 
and upon their return, saw the gold, a portion of which I 
afterward brought to the United States, where it was pro- 
nounced to be fully equal to the best Californian. 

An Englishman, by the name of Paynter, resided many 
years near Matagalpa, where, in conjunction with a native, 
he carried on the crushing of ore, which paid him handsomely. 
He told me his machinery was primitive : a rude, rough 
hammer, worked by water power, for the crushing of the 
rock, which, when broken, fell into a solid basin. He used 
immense pestles, and in this way he said he made as good a 
living as he desired. He could at any time have as much 
money as he wanted ; only increase the number of workmen, 
and this result was certain. Machinery could not be had 
at any price, nor could travelers be even favorably impressed 
with the facts as to this golden but rugged country ; and he 
added: "As I am old, and shall never again return to 



88 NICARAGUA. 

England, I am content with little to do, and that little 
satisfies all my desires." 

Poor honest Paynter I he died shortly after. A better com- 
panion or truer friend never lived. He was a nobleman of 
Nature, with a soul extensive enough to feel for a world of 
friends, with not a selfish feeling, nor an ignoble princi- 
ple. His bones rest far from his rock-bound island home, 
and there are many hearts, no doubt, which throb in unison 
with mine, as I repeat. Poor Paynter ! 

The mineral wealth of the United Central States is im- 
mense, each province boasting of numerous mines, washings 
of gold, and veins of silver. In the plain of Lepaguare, in 
Honduras, there rises a hill about eight hundred feet high, 
called Cerro Gordo, full of silver veins. Santa Lucia, a half 
day's ride northeast from Tegucigalpa, Mina Grande, San 
Martin, the Gatal, El Chimbo, a mass of copper dust two 
leagues from Tegucigalpa, De la Plata, San Juan de Can- 
taranos. La Mineral de Guascaran, silver ; De Plomo, Yilla 
Nueva, and other mines adjoining, Tuscaran or Yuscaran, 
and nine other mines, one of which, the Guyavilla, is very 
celebrated, the Yeta Azul, Mairena, the Corpus, Cedios, Santa 
Barbara, San Antonio, Las Animas, the Malacate, and 
Encuentros : these form the principal mines of Honduras. 

Near Cape Gracias a Dios are found fine opals in abun- 
dance. I have many in my possession, a few of which are 



OPALS AND OTHER PRECIOUS STONES. 89 

considered fully equal to the finest Hungarian. One in par- 
ticular, is large and full of fire. They are found in a bluish 
rock, rich flinty quartz, which is with great difficulty even 
perforated with a drill. They are seen peering from their 
rock-beds like the eyes of a bull, round, as large, and very 
frequently much larger. Again, they run in veins in a milk- 
blue rock. The stone then assumes a brilliant mother-of-pearl 
appearance, being striated, and not so transparent. An old 
Prenchman has been for years engaged in their exportation 
to France, and owns a specimen the size of an ordinary 
sickle pear. I had a very valuable one, but it was broken, 
through the want of skill of a lapidary in New York. The 
Indians are engaged in collecting them, and on the moun- 
tains their value is esteemed very inconsiderable. In San Sal- 
vador, at the village of Zatapa, about nine leagues from Santa 
Ana, there are iron and also several good yielding silver 
mines ; and within five leagues of San Miguel there are nu- 
merous deposits of gold and silver, the principal of which are 
Tabanco, Macuelizo, La Baca, El Cuyal, La Carolina, and 
Merendon. 

I have witnessed various interesting experiments by the 
savans of the mineral regions, to discover what kind of metal 
was in an unknown ore, from the color it imparted to 
glasses. The ores were pulverized and placed in a covered 
vessel, over a fire strong enough to create a moderate red 



90 NICARAGUA. 

heat. A few grains of the powdered residue was mixed with 
an ounce of crystalline glass, reduced to a powder also. Care 
was observed that nothing metallic, or aught else which might 
tinge glass, should mix with it. After being over the fire in 
fusion for some hours, the vessel was taken out, and after it 
grew cold, was broken. From the color of the fragments, 
they then endeavored to discover what metal or metallic earth 
was contained in the ore : as, for example, from the whitish 
or milky, that it contained tin ; from the green, copper ; and 
from the rusty green, iron. In an old Latin work upon 
Docimasia, I have found a highly interesting note, which I 
shall add : — " Precious stones are supposed, in their natural 
state, to be originally of two classes — the adamantine and the 
crystalline. If they are found in their matrixes untainted by 
any metallic substance, they remain pure diamonds, of the 
clearest, finest water, or crystals perfectly transparent; but 
if a diamond is tinged with lead, it appears yellow ; if with 
copper and iron, it becomes green ; and if with cinnabar, it 
makes a most beautiful red, and then changes its name to a 
ruby, and loses of its hardness in proportion to the mixture 
of the metal in it. A crystal, tinged with iron, becomes a 
garnate ; with copper and an alkali, a sapphire ; with copper 
and an acid, an emerald ; with lead, a topaz and a jacinth ; 
with gold, a chrysolite ; with copper and iron, an aquamarine ; 
and so on in many varieties j and each of these may be imitated 



MINERALOGY. 91 

by mixing preparations of metals with the finest white flint 
glass, by which method all sorts of gems being counterfeited, 
are called pastes, and are used to take off impressions of 
antique intaglios and cameos." 

In a country whose mineralogy is so imperfectly known, 
little can be said ; and I only add here the result of my own 
observations, with such information as I could gain in various 
portions of the State from miners and those who were inter- 
ested in mineral development. I have noticed schistus, slate, 
mica, talc, asbestus, interspersed with stratified sand-rock, 
while superimposed on this conglomerate were veins of 
trachytic or basaltic rock. Those of the calcareous, more 
especially, I observed, were marbles, calcareous spars, gypsums, 
and limestones, the latter very compact, and in color white, 
red, blue, and gray. The marbles are white, gray, black, 
and green, and like those of Chili, are susceptible of a fine 
polish. The varieties of spars are infinite, and I have seen 
them crossed in various directions by very fine golden fila- 
ments. 

Quarries of gypsum, the parallelopipedal, rhomboidal, and 
striated, are numerous. That of a light blue, very brittle, is 
found in a semi-calcined state in the vicinity of volcanoes j 
of this latter, a highly useful and beautiful plaster for walls 
might be made. There are various kinds of the sandstone 
viz. : the flint, whetstone, quartz, and rock crystal. Of the 



92 NICARAGUA. 

plain jaspers, I discovered the fine red, the gray, green, 
white, and the lapis lazuli, and also the gray spotted with 
black, the white interspersed with blue and yellow, and the 
yellow, variegated with blue, gray, and red spots. 

I also found quantities of colored crystals, supposed by the 
inhabitants to be precious stones, as they resembled in ap- 
pearance rubies, jacinths, diamonds, &c. Among the quan- 
tities of quartz in the mountain districts, I purchased for a 
trifle several beautiful specimens of agate ; and along the 
western shore of Lake Nicaragua, have seen the blood-stone. 
In the Department Septentrional of Matagalpa, amethysts 
have been found which were enclosed in a gray quartz. Had 
those who discovered the specimens shown to me, dug deeper, 
the stones would have proven more valuable. They varied in 
color, some of a pure violet, others tinged with the deepest 
tint of purple. 

I have been shown, also, several turquoises, greenish-blue 
in hue, and others which were very hard, of a deep blue. 
According to Abbe Molina, "these stones ought, with pro- 
priety, to be classed among the concretions, as they are only 
the petrified teeth or bones of animals, colored by metallic 
vapors." (" History of Chili :" Yol. l, pp. 64, 65.) Being but 
imperfectly acquainted with mineralogy, and in fact, not 
having expected to meet with so much of an interesting 
character, I had not at hand a " vade mccum," by which I 



THE WISE DOMINICAN. ' 93 

could at once gain a transient intimacy with the quality and 
value of these stones, and not being in a country where I 
could gain reliable or satisfactory replies to my queries, I 
have given here the ultimatum of my information, although 
I thought in some instances that colored spar was received by 
the natives as emeralds, topazes, and sapphires. I am aware, 
now, that my latter suggestion is fully endorsed by those inti- 
mate with the subject ; but in the instances given, I may have 
been mistaken. 

In Prescott's Peru, Yol. i., p. 321, by reference, is found, 
that the conquerors having reached a town in the province of 
Coaque, they rushed into the deserted dwellings, and found 
there " a large quantity of gold and silver, wrought into 
clumsy ornaments, together with many precious stones ; for 
this was the region of the esmeraldas, or emeralds, where that 
valuable gem was most abundant. One of these jewels that fell 
into the hands of Pizarro, in this neighborhood, was as large 
as a pigeon's ^gg. Unluckily, his rude followers did not know 
the value of their prize, and they broke many of them in 
pieces by pounding them with hammers. They were led to 
this extraordinary proceeding, it is said, by one of the Domi- 
nican missionaries, Fray Reginaldo de Pedraza, who assured 
them that this was the way to prove the true emerald, which 
could not be broken I It was observed that the good father 
did not subject his own jewels to this wise experiment ; but 



94 NICARAGUA. 

as the stones, in consequence of it, fell in value, being regarded 
merely as colored glass, he carried back a considerable store 
of them to Panama." 

It was subsequent to the capture of this province, that 
Pizarro continued his march along the coast, when a " strange 
epidemic broke out in the little army." The Spaniards, 
exhausted by fatigue and disease, "and grievously disap- 
pointed at the poverty of the land, which now offered no 
compensation for their toils, cursed the hour in which they 
had enlisted under his standard ; and the men of Nicaragua, 
in particular, says the old chronicler, calling to mind their 
pleasant quarters in their luxurious land, sighed only to return 
to their Mohammedan Paradise." 

The topazes shown to me were mostly imperfect, and full 
of flaws ; but I saw not one with double pyramid. I was 
informed that sometimes these gems were found in quartz 
crystals, and that in some instances they were green. I 
doubted this, believing that if any substance of that color 
resembling the topaz, did occur, it was most probably euclase, 
which may be and has been mistaken for it. 

In the mountains of Aguacate, near Cartago, in Costa Kica, 
there are several gold mines ; and the neighborhood of 
Olancho is famous for its fine ore, which is said to have been 
collected in the sands of the river Guyape, in its course 
through the valley. 



GOLD MINES OF COSTA RICA. 95 

Many writers have given statistical accounts of the 
revenue of said mines ; but never having seen an official 
statement, I shall make no estimates of my own. A few 
weeks labor to a party possessing a knowledge of mining, 
and the proper machinery, would be ample for the amassing 
of a fortune. Coal has been found in Costa Rica, upon the 
shores of Lake Nicaragua, and upon the Mosquito coast. 

With such evidences of wealth, there can be little doubt 
of the early explorations of these provinces by the hardy and 
experienced miners of the United States. Their arrival 
would be hailed with enthusiasm by a people who venerate 
our government, and love its citizens for their intelligence, 
sociability, and enterprise. 



CHAPTER X. 

BEYOND GRANADA — A VIEW — INDIAN MOTHER AND HER LOAD — THE CON- 
QUERORS — MY OPINION — MASAYA — THE PLAZA — THE CHURCH — STORES AND 
MANUFACTURES — FINE HATS, PRICES — HAMMOCKS — PROVISIONS — EXTENT 
OF THE TOWN — DOGS AND BUZZARDS — COUNTRY BEYOND THE TOWN — 
NINDIRI — ITS CHURCH — COOL SHADE — ITS ORANGES — ANOTHER FINE VIEW^ — 
MAL PAIS, A ROAD OF LAVA — RIO TIPITAPA AND THE LAKES — SOMETHING 
FROM OVIEDO — AN OASIS — A DRINK, AND A SWING IN A HAMMOCK — ENTRANCE 
INTO MANAGUA — WHOM WE MET — CITY BY MOONLIGHT — NIHAPA — INDIAN 

TEMPLE — A SELL — DIFFERENCE OP OPINIONS ABOUT IT — OTHER LAKES 

WASHER-WOMEN AGAIN — ANCIENT HISTORY — SENORITAS. 

Beyond the city the palm is seen waving on either hand. 
The roads are bad enough, but every one should lay in a sup- 
ply of good humor when traveling, especially in this country. 
Through dark and dense ravines, draperied with bush and 
brier, we hold to the mule path, while myriads of macaws, 
parrots, and other birds, flit across the almost arched trees 
above us. The lake lies on our right, and from the eminence 
now gained, seems like a fine thread of silver tracing the dis- 
(96) 



THE EARLY SPANIARD — HIS SINS AND THE RESULT. 97 

tance. From the summit of this ridge we have a glorious 
prospect. There lies Lake Nicaragua ; and there, like a tail 
to a silver kite, runs the Tipitapa. In the background are the 
mountains of Matagalpa and Segovia. A slope, covered with 
forest, sweeps between us and the outlined picture. The road 
is narrow and much worn. Far down to the left, a line of 
smoke wreathes palely up from some hidden hacienda, while the 
hills seem to chase one another in graceful flow, far back to a 
blank horizon. The Indian woman approaching has her load 
of corn, a bushel or two, iii a net bag, suspended from her 
forehead and resting on her back. I have seen, too, besides 
this heavy burden, a strapping child of six years of age sitting 
philosophically on her hip, perfectly resigned to the slavish 
condition of the toiling parent. This custom, however, is the 
result of the brutalizing treatment of the early Spaniards, the 
tormentors of these poor Indians. Grladly would I forget that 
the Spanish conquerors introduced neither civilization, peace, 
nor plenty, but wars, rapine, and discord ; sowed dissensions ; 
and after robbing their prostrate victims of vitality, left them 
poverty-stricken and enfeebled. Spain's day of reckoning 
must arrive. He whose Cross has witnessed so many inhuman 
outrages, whose symbol has been profaned, whose people have 
been wronged and betrayed, will not forget the untutored 
Indian, whose hearth has been desecrated, and whose home 
and hopes have been defiled. 
1 



1)8 NICARAGUA. 

We enter Masaya. On either hand are fruit trees, amid 
cool cane huts. As we advance, a better class of houses, with 
tile roofs, are seen ; and still on, for a considerable distance, we 
reach the plaza. In the centre stands a large church, about 
which are gathered a vast number of market people ; and, 
piled on the pave, are quantities of fruits and various articles 
of domestic manufacture. I was surprised to find abundance 
of cordage, hammocks, cotton cloth, saddles, and mats of nu- 
merous descriptions, exposed for sale in the stores surrounding 
the plaza ; but learned, upon subsequent inquiry, that Masaya 
was celebrated particularly for its manufactures. I saw some 
beautiful hammocks, very fine, exhibiting considerable taste in 
the blending and arrangement of colors, adorned with tassels, 
all of which were offered at reasonable prices. For an Ameri- 
can dollar I purchased a very good one ; and for two dollars 
and a half, one of the finest among them. There is a nack in 
sitting or lolling in one of these airy cradles ; and two persons, 
reclining midway in one, upon different sides, will thus find a 
grand improvement in their siestas. For warm eves, give me 
the grass hammock. I can rock myself to sleep, or remain 
torpid ad libitum. 

Upon the left hand of the plaza you reach a posada, or 
hotel, where you find plenty of room, beans, corn-cakes, sweet 
cakes, dulces, preserves and candies, hard-boiled eggs, and fried 
chickens. The town covers a square league ; though, we must 



TOWNS AND TIIETR ATPIIRTENANCES. 90 

say, that it would be impossible to estimate the extent of any 
of the towns of Nicaragua, or the number of their inhabitants, 
without allowing a margin for guess-work. None of the cities 
are very extensive — that is, the adobe or finely-built portion ; 
but the precincts, or suburbs, are immense. After riding 
through the principal streets, until you fancy every estimate 
made by travelers wide of the mark, a gap in the foliage will 
reveal cane and mud huts on the brink of some ravine, com- 
pletely embowered in orange and lemon trees ; or you will 
strike a winding foot-path, leading far into a hidden depth of 
bananas and palms, which leads you to a populous com- 
munity of plebeians. These are a distinct body, save on holy 
days, when the masses assemble to witness the fireworks, or to 
welcome the entree of a conqueror, or a dictator. 

Dogs and buzzards are abundant in and about all the towns. 
The former throng the streets, snarl, bark, growl, and run 
where they are sure to be in the way ; while the latter, on out- 
stretched inky pinions, settle upon the tiled roofs of the con- 
vents and churches, as though they were part and parcel 
thereof. They are universal appurtenances ; and the former 
mar a quiet stroll through the shady suburbs, while the latter 
break upon the landscape just as your imagination is about to 
lend enchantment to some vine-twined ruin, and blot out the 
fair proportions of some imaginary airy structure. 

Masaya is a sweet retreat, and is celebrated for its industrial 



100 NICARAGUA. 

populace. Passing through the outskirts one morn, I saw in 
a hut several men making hats. I entered, and found some 
shaping and manufacturing, while others were slitting into 
fine shreds, a species of palm, which forms the fencing about 
the country generally, and which grows only about four feet 
high. The leaf is long, slender, remarkably strong, and is of a 
dark-green color — though when dried, it becomes very light 
indeed. These were the finest hats I ever saw, and I ordered 
one for twelve dollars, which was to have been delivered to me 
in ten days. The only reply, however, to my frequent mes- 
sages for it, was "Poco tiempo," which has passed into a 
national proverb. Every thing is conducted on the "in a 
little time" style ; and although it at first disarranges all your 
plans, and puts you to numerous inconveniences, yet you be- 
come accustomed to it, and in a little while adopt it also, in 
self-defense. 

The country beyond the city is very luxuriant ; and follow- 
ing the broadest road, we pass through a deep cut in a volcanic 
rock, about mid-distance to Nindiri. Indian women, with only 
skirts on, and children refreshingly naked, are seen moving 
about in the orange-arcades on eithei' hand ; while the latter, 
noisy as all are and should be everywhere, are found propa- 
gated in immense quantities. To the right of the road is a 
plaza, on which stands a cosy church. Fruits of every variety 
are found here in perfection — among others, excellent oranges, 



THE VOLCANO OP MASAYA. lOl 

hanging from the tree, large, thick-skinned, juicy and firm. 
Passing out toward Managua, which lies twelve leagues from 
Masaya, we soon rode into the forest, and reached elevated 
and volcanic ground, whence the view of the country was 
complete. The Lake, plain, hills, mountains, valley, and 
forest, all lay far out on Nature's easel, fresh and fair. 

Beyond this point we passed a miserable piece of road, called 
by the natives, " Mai pais," — bad country-^ ; and certainly it 
richly merits the title. It is an immense body of lava, ejected 
from the volcano of Masaya on the left, which was in full blast 
about 1670, and of which some strange stories were told by 
the early chroniclers. It is a vast mass of hard, grating, 
unyielding, bluish-black — a useless waste of matter collected 
by terrific force. It has flooded the country for miles ; and, as 
has been conjectured, blocked up the Lake ; for in olden times 
it was supposed the Lakes Managua and Nicaragua were 
one, as the Rio Tipitapa is supposed to be all remaining of 
the lakes in their former unity. The adjacent country is 
full of accumulated pummice. On the right, toward the 
Lake, is truly a desolate picture. Trees buried ; others just 
projecting above this mass ; rocks toasted, half covered, or 
overturned ; valleys filled with it ; and our nag's tramp sound- 
ing hollow beneath — all this lends any thing but enchantment 
to as drear a landscape as I ever wish to see. Oviedo, an old 
chronicler, who visited it while in a state of eruption, in 1529, 



102 NICARAGUA. 

says, that neither Yesuvius nor Etna were to be compared 
with " the Hell of Masaya," as it was called. It is said that 
tigers and pumas are numerous in the vicinity. The moun- 
tain, at the base, is about three leagues in circumference, and 
rises to the height of a league from the foot to the summit. 
He also adds, " Some assert that the light caused by the 
eruption is sufficient to read by at the distance of three 
leagues. The whole country is illuminated by the flame of 
the volcano." The crater is about five hundred feet in depth ; 
and owing to its regular ascent, the width diminishes as it 
descends. The bottom of the crater is at least two hundred 
feet in circumference. The country immediately surrounding 
is barren and desolate — an occasional blighted tree still stand- 
ing, a melancholy sentinel over this desert of scoriaceous 
mass. 

After a pause sufficient to fully satisfy us, we resumed our 
saddles, and over a rough, wild, hollow, rumbling road, 
reached a lovely and rolling country, a grateful relief to the 
eye and feelings. Hard by, on our right, we espied a hut ; 
and not having found a stream where we might refresh our- 
selves and our jaded animals, we turned from the beaten path, 
and rode to the open door. Here we found several Indians 
of the Chorotegan race, who furnished us with lemonade, 
cakes, candies, and eggs, and we lolled in the ever-ready 
hammocks until the sun began to decline, when again spring- 



CHAMORRO ANT) THE GRENADINOS. 103 

ing into the stirrup, wc hastened to Managua. The entrance 
to the city is agreeable, the road being lined with trees ; the 
cane huts, wliite washed or painted, pitched gracefully upon 
the side of a hill, or stuck jauntily upon its summit, sur- 
rounded by heaTily-laden orange and lemon trees. The 
effect was indeed the more striking, as we had just left the 
black fields of Masaya, and turned from our halt in the broil- 
ing sun to a delightful repose. 

The army of the Grenadinos was quartered in Managua, and 
our posada was the headquarters of General Chamorro and • 
suite, and consequently we fared better, probably, than those 
travelers who arrived in town a few hours later. The drums 
were beating, troops were marshalling in the distance, and 
the guards were about being relieved, as we strolled out to 
survey the city by moonlight, after sipping a cup of tiste. 
The people were sitting at their doors, smoking and chatting 
over some imaginary entree of General Munoz, who, it was 
currently reported, was to attack the town that night. As 
we advanced, the challenge of the sentry on every corner 
announced our approach to the plaza. The moon rose 
beautifully over the towering coyal palms in the distance, 
and illumined a large sheet of water beyond us, which we 
subsequently discovered was Lake Managua. 

Lake Nihapa lies about nine miles from the city, and 
occupies the crater of an extinct volcano. Here we found 



104 NICARAGUA. 

masses of black lava, partially covered with patches of grass, 
while before us were small huts. Beyond, flowing in har- 
monious swells, were mountains, crowned with graceful foli- 
age ; and far beyond stretched Lake Managua, gemmed with 
islands, gleaming like a huge burnished mirror. We de- 
scended to a position of safety, and gazed far down the depth 
of the crater, where we saw a variety of uncouth, red-painted 
figures, concerning which I had no time to gather any thing, 
and probably saved my labor, for queries are to but little 
purpose in Nicaragua. " Quien sabe ?" — Who knows ? — is a 
fit companion for the everlasting '*Poco tiempo;" and be- 
tween the two you derive as little satisfaction as from any 
sources imaginable. There is said to exist here the remains of 
an Indian temple. If it does, I did not see it ; but I found 
an arched cave, which, to an inexperienced eye, aided by a 
fertile and superstitious imagination, might prove a temple 
as well as any thing else. The choice is altogether a matter 
of taste, and I suppose the inhabitants delight in believing 
that which tradition has handed to them. 

There are various other lakes in the neighborhood of the 
city, all of volcanic formation and origin. The Salt Lake is 
one of them, the water being brackish. The descent to it is 
steep, and overgrown with underbrush and briers. Another, the 
name of which I cannot recall, is reached by a path margined 
with cacti. The water is very cool, the sun is felt but little, 



MANAGUA AS IT WAS AND IS. 105 

and it is the favorite resort of the washer-women of the city 
Managua, in ancient times, after the expedition of Cordova, 
was said to be nine miles long, contained forty thousand in- 
habitants, and the country generally might be said to swarm 
with population. It is now a quiet place, celebrated only 
for its neighboring lakes, a few old statues, and for the ex- 
ceeding grace of its nut-brown senoritas. 



CHAPTER XL 

MANAGUA — ITS INHABITANTS — SEETILES AND LIBERALS — HISTORICAL INTER- 
LUDES — EDUCATION — THE FATHERS OF ELD — BIGOTRY — ECCLESIASTICS — AN 
ANCIENT CARTING — PADRE VIGIL — RELIGOUS CEREMONIES — THE INDIANS — 
SQUIER'S ASSERTIONS RELATIVE TO THE MOSQUITO INDIANS — HISTORY AGAIN 
— IDEAS ABOUT MIGRATION — ANTIQUE STONES (PIEDRAS ANTIGUAs) — THE 
CONFESSORS OF THE CONQUEST. 

Managua is the seat of the meeting of the Legislature. 
Its inhabitants are deemed stanch and loyal citizens ; and 
there being continual jealousies and strifes between Leon and 
Granada, here, on neutral ground, the opposing cliques event- 
ually meet, arrayed in the " panoply of war," to battle, fortune 
deciding in turns for either party. These intestine broils are 
waged with acrimony ; families are arrayed against their own ; 
kill forget, or forsake kindred ties, and bury in the preparation 
for strife every ancient feeling of love and reciprocal friend- 
ship. Events of long standing are causes for animosities, 
(106) 



THE SERVILES AND LIBERALS. lOt 

which only require a breath to fan into a flame. The embers 
of discord are smouldering, a blaze arises, intercourse ceases, 
appeals to arms ensue, aud the already poverty-enfeebled 
country groans under new taxes and fresh imposts. The En- 
glishman, too, has been busy, sowing the seed of dissension, 
that he might reap a golden harvest ; and in its troubles he 
fattens upon the vitals of the helmless State. 

There are two factions, viz., the Serviles — the aristocrats or 
monarchists — and the Liberals or Kepublicans. Prior to the 
independence of Nicaragua from her confederated articles with 
Honduras, Costa Rica, and other states, the Serviles favored a 
monarchy, of which the Emperor of Mexico was to have been 
the head. The Liberals of Guatemala and Nicaragua united 
and opposed these suicidal schemes, and lost or gained, at 
different times, till in 1829, Gen. Morazan discovering that 
the church was intriguing also against liberal views, seized the 
prelate and marched him out of the country, forbidding his 
return, under penalty of death. Monks and friars were sum- 
marily expelled. The convents and monasteries were conse- 
quently deserted ; and the State of Guatemala passed a decree 
forbidding the ''takiug of the veil," suppressing monastic 
establishments, and confiscating to the State's support these 
wealthy garners of exclusive church monopolies. Papal bulls 
were not permitted to be promulgated ; church dignitaries 
were to be appointed by the President of the Republic, and 



108 NICARAGUA. 

the sale of papal dispensations proceeded from the Federal 
Government. 

Honduras legalized the marriages of the priests, and legit- 
imated the children resulting from their union. The confed- 
eracy dissolved, and the Serviles being in the ascendency, 
convents were reopened in Guatemala ; but the other States 
maintained their prohibitions. The taxes upon property have 
greatly enriched the church coffers notwithstanding. These 
liens accumulated rapidly, and encumbered the largest estates 
of the country; but the Legislature of Nicaragua, in 1850, 
abolished ten per cent, of these, except such as were ap- 
plied to education. 

Nicaragua and Costa Rica constitute one Diocess, dating 
back to 1526. Education is at a low ebb. On the outskirts 
of Masaya, to the left, we passed an adobe school-house. I 
peeped in and saw about sixty muchachos and muchachitas 
busily engaged in poring over their books. They recite in 
one class, and sing their lessons. The rod is known here, too, 
and is measured by no stingy rule ; but how to detect, in 
such an universal method of recitation, the delinquent student, 
I could not arrive at ; but suppose the ear becomes accustomed 
to the scholastic melodies, and readily discovers a false note, 
or an inharmonious tone. Mr. Squier's correspondent ob- 
serves, that "in the University of Granada, are taught the 
following branches : Latin and Spanish grammar ; Philosophy 



EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES. 109 

Civil and Canonical Law, also Theology, English and French. 
In mathematics there is a void. The time devoted to Spanish, 
Grammar, and Latin, is two and a half years — to Philosophy, 
two years — Civil, and Canonical Law, and Theology, three 
years ; and that many, wanting the patience, skip and skim over 
them, to secure their titles ;" and there are priests who have 
read so little, that they may be dignified as self-tanght. Sala- 
ries of professors do not exceed two hundred dollars per 
year. 

Liberal inducements have been offered in Central America 
for the establishment of schools of every grade. The Govern- 
ment House, after business hours, is used for school purposes. 
Education, in a country where Catholic influences were always 
prominent, in fact universal from the conquest, has been but 
lightly regarded. It could not be that the Fathers of the 
Church were illiterate. It could not be that education should 
be considered a disqualification, an incubus upon prog- 
ress. Why, then, has it stood still, since the introduction of 
Christianity ? Has the precept of our Saviour been carried 
out, " Suffer little children to come unto me" ? or have the holy 
padres used the temples of the Most High for other purposes 
more holy ? Has this not occurred wherever the Cross has 
been planted by force, as in South America, Peru, Mexico, Gua- 
temala, and upon the ruined shrines of the Incas and Aztecs ? 

If civilization does not contain the germ of educational pur- 



110 NICARAGUA. 

poses, what shall we find within it ? Nought save a painted, 
treacherous nuncio, a promise worse than a positive denial, 
because unfulfilled. And calmly reviewing the conquest, we 
find no spirit of enterprise inculcated by the church. Blind 
obedience, slavish submission, unnatural exactions, jaundiced 
expectations, faithless pledges — these only are the results of 
the incoming of these Soldiers of the Faith. These provinces, 
instead of even remaining as pure in principle, and honest in 
sentiment as the holy fathers found them, are degraded by 
moral and intellectual prostitution, where, amid the just 
shooting germs of natural hopes and religious feelings, the 
Cross of the Crusade trembles upon a tottering foundation. 

It has been contended by some, that bigotry is universal. I 
must differ from those who probably have had no superior ad- 
vantages of self judging. An apathy pervades the community in 
general, I admit. There is a want of decision among the 
higher classes — a void of sentiment — a laxity of discipline ; but 
I have found abundant evidences of moral worth and common 
sense, which are guarantees of substantiality. The night of 
fanaticism is fast waning ; the dawn of moral and physical in- 
dependence is already breaking ; and in the dayspring of 
Nicaragua, a future of greatness and prosperity is shadowed, 
which will forever close against the Cliurch of the Conquest 
the hopes of a revival of its past absolute sovereignty, and 
merciless control. 



THE CARVED FIGURE OF CORTEZ. Ill 

Amid the body of ecclesiastics, nevertheless, I liavc met with 
man}- men whose unexceptionable demeanor attracted not 
alone, attention, but inspired reverence and respect; men who 
were capable of friendship unalloyed, and who reciprocated 
those many little minutia3, which form a pleasing whole. 
Padre Vigil, the curate of the parochial in Granada, is of this 
class, a man of genuine sterjing virtue, a friend of the oppressed 
in heart and deed. I remember a sermon delivered by him in 
1850, in which he noticed a want of proper feeling among the 
natives toward the Americans, who, instead of kneeling as the 
Host passed by, raised their hats in respect. Difficulties have 
occurred in Catholic countries where natives have deemed the 
omission of kneeling an insult to their religion ; we may 
mention Mexico, Peru, Italy, and many other states. This 
ecclesiastic subsequently represented Nicaragua as Minister 
to the United States. 

Having heard that there was a carving of considerable merit 
in a small hut, in a remote portion of the city, I hastened to ex- 
amine it, anxious to incorporate in my "notes" a description 
of it. It proved to be a representation of a cavalier on horse- 
back, almost of life-size ; the costume and arms were of the fif- 
teenth century, in his upraised right hand he clasped a straight- 
bladed sword, and in the left, a long cross. The figure itself, 
was designed with a great deal of spirit ; the long hair and 
flowing beard, the cap, upon the side of which was represented 



112 NICARAGUA. 

a feather, the sash about the waist, and the spur upon the 
right heel, all corresponded with the paintings of the Indians 
subsequent to the conquest. The eyes of the cavalier are 
raised, and his entire attitude denotes the moment of his em- 
barking upon some enterprise, such as the advancement of the 
Holy Cross into new lands. The horse is executed with a 
boldness seldom seen in the engravings or paintings of the 
early Mexicans or Indians. The carving occupies the entire 
side of the cane hut ; and the reply to my query, as to whom 
it was supposed to represent, was, "Hernando Cortez." As 
to its history, they knew nothing more than it had been in their 
family for many years. The panels encompassing it are filled 
with dim, and nearly obliterated tracings. They represent 
armed white men, with long beards, battling with nude Indians 
with primitive weapons ; while interspersed, are seen dogs with 
open mouths, rushing upon the terrified natives. 

In the court of our posada, I saw a large brass bell, which 
i had rung the tocsin of a revolution in Spain, the name of 
which I have forgotten. I was told it was brought here by the 
Spaniards, but for what purpose was not known. The casting 
was superb, and. the metal equal to the matchless cannon of 
Chagres Fort and those lying on the lake-side at San Carlos. 

The Indians of this country were, we learn from the early 
chroniclers, divided into "two distinct families, corresponding 
with the sections of the Provinces. The Caribs maintained a 



THE MOSQUITO INDIANS. 113 

precarious living on the Atlantic coast, with a peculiar reli- 
gion." Squiers remarks: "A portion of their descendants, 
still further debased by the introduction of negro blood, may 
stili be found in the wretched Mosquitos, who, by a brazen 
fraud, are attempted to be passed off on the world as a 
sovereign nation, comprehending the duties, and capable 
of fulfilling the requirements of government." It is not 
our province, nor our intention here, to dilate upon the 
title of the Mosquito king to that part of the country, 
known as the "Mosquito Territory," and inhabited by the 
Moscos or Mosquitos, Yalientes, Wawas, and other tribes on 
the shores of the Caribbean Sea, from the ninth to the fifteenth 
degree of north latitude. We shall speak of it hereafter, and 
furnish the titles of the claimants in juxtaposition, and draw 
our inferences. 

On the river San Juan, are the few Melchoras of Carib 
stock, and the same is said to be true of the Woolwas, Poyas, 
Kamas, Toacas, and the Bravos to the southward on the 
Atlantic coast, toward Chiriqui Lagoon. In the interior, the 
natives partook of the characteristics of the Mexicans, and were 
divided into distinct governments. They appear to have been 
one people, with the exception of those living on the small 
isthmus between the Pacific and Lake Nicaragua. These 
latter spoke the language of the ancient Mexicans, and pos- 
sessed their customs and religion. The other races, called 
8 



1 14 NICARAGUA. 

Dirians, occupied Masaya, Managua, Tipitapa, Diriomo, and 
Diriamba. Oviedo says, "they were true Chorotegans." The 
Nagrandans occupied the plain of Leon between the northern 
extreme of Lake Managua and the Pacific. The Orotinians 
settled the country south of Lake Nicaragua around the Gulf 
Nicoya. The Cholutecans, occupied the districts north of the 
Nagrandans, extending along the Gulf of Fonseca into what 
is now Honduras territory. The Chontals covered Chontales, 
northward of Lake Nicaragua, and lying between the tribes 
already given, and those on the Caribbean Sea. That these 
tribes should have migrated is no great wonder, for migrations 
greater occurred prior; that they should be remnants, or 
entire tribes from Mexico, is not at all strange — for after the 
conquest of Mexico, various tribes sought safety from the 
swords of the conquerors ; and that Nicaragua should have 
been the home of their exile should not be as strange, as to 
know positively that the language of Mexico is spoken by some 
of them, and yet, not to believe them hereditary descendants 
of the Aztecs. 

Many statues, or " antique stones" have been discovered, 
either too much broken to be entirely recovered, too bulky for 
the means of present transportation, or too difiBcult of access ; 
and there can be but little doubt that numbers have been 
hidden by the Indians, who yet retain a distinct remembrance 
of their traditional virtues. Could these senseless blocks 



THE CONFESSORS OF THE CONQUEST. 115 

speak, with what eloquence would they tell the wrongs of their 
worshippers, and how depict the fanaticism of the holy fathers, 
who waged a long crusade against them and their venerators I 
Yet some of them remain, pure as when chiseled, while the 
Confessors of the Conquest sleep in dusty chambers, far from the 
scenes of their rapine, remembered by their atrocities, a.nd 
revered, certainly not for their advancement of the Holy Cause. 
Time will weigh each in his balance, and justice will be ac- 
corded by Him who "marks the sparrow's fall," the Father of 
the Fatherless. 



CHAPTER XII. 

IDOLS — GOOD TEETH — CIGARITAS — UNIVERSAL USE — A PRIMITIVE PEOPLE — 
A CLEAN BREAST OF SEVERAL MATTERS — A VISIT WITH THE CONSUL-GENERAL 
OF THE UNITED STATES — AN INTERESTING DOMESTIC GROUP — RECOGNITION 
OF A WELL-KNOWN VOICE — COMFORTS NOT EXPECTED — COUNTRY ABOUT THE 
CITY — FRUITS — FIELDS — COOKS — SOCIETY — OUR POSADA — BIOGRAPHICAL 
SKETCH OF CHAMORRO — ALSO OP JOSE TRINIDAD MUNOZ — OUTSIDE OF MA- 
NAGUA — ON OUR TOUR AGAIN — SCOUTS — NEW ROAD OVER THE MOUNTAIN 

NARROW PATH — AN INCIDENT BY THE WAY-SIDE — GLIMPSES OP THE COUNTRY 
— OUTPOSTS AHEAD, AND OUR PREPARATION. 

A NUMBER of statues may be found in this city, though much 
defacSSHUHid so rude in execution, that for me they possessed 
but little interest, and probably for the reader less. I of course 
consider them idols ; I could not mistake them for modern 
statues, for Nicaragua has efected no monuments, that I dis- 
covered, to the memory of any of her sages or patriots. Had 
I been told that these rude stone cuttings portrayed a Soph- 
ocles or a Hannibal, I should have questioned the likenesses, 
(116) 



OBSERVATIONS ABOUT SMOKING. lit 

and have given the sculptor credit for chiseling the deceased 
out of that transient respect, which a fair picture of a departed 
sage or hero receives even from the stranger. 

I have said elsewhere that this city was celebrated, among 
other matters, for the graceful carriage of its females. This is 
not confined to the wealthier class ; it is a general thing. The 
senorita, decked in her gayest apparel, possesses the same ease, 
the same quiet dignity ; while the muchachas, who upon their 
heads balance the tinajas, sweep past with an eloquent motion 
which instantly attracts your attention. As a general thing, 
too good teeth are prevalent ; and having heard the learned 
Professors of Medicine in the United States anathematize 
the practice of smoking and chewing as injurious to health and 
teeth, I felt relieved as I observed its universal use here, 
where from earliest infancy no restraints had been imposed, no 
Candle lectures from tidy housewifes, no vigorous handling from 
the hand of an enraged governor, who probably might have se4; 
the example to his erring child. Every one enjoys a smoke, old 
and young, male and female ; and you at first deem it singular, 
that as you sit tete-a-tete with a smiling senorita, she should 
in a moment make a paper cigarita, and after lighting it, puff 
it once or twice, and hand it to you with a smile, that of 
course overcomes any remnant of antipathy yet lingering as to 
a "draw." 

I might mention some particulars for the curious, and whit- 



118 NICARAGUA. 

tling away as I am at facts, not fancies, and as probably some 
of my readers may take a trip to Nicaragua some time, I may 
as well make "a clean breast" of that which I feel pressing to 
my lips and eager to have utterance. Now I wish to be 
fairly understood. I consider the Nicaraguans a primitive 
people in many respects — self-taught, self-dependent ; rich in 
many virtues ; and wanting only in that which I honestly be- 
lieve is not solitaire in Spanish countries, but even has status in 
the United States — Nationalizing, and one other element essen- 
tially Spanish — want of self-government. My premises thus 
given, I shall be considered properly, I trust. A favorite, to 
whom your serenade is given, your sonnets improvised, your 
waltz or polka dedicated, is as shy of a loving embrace, or a 
warm, rich, ripe kiss, as are some of the blushing and beautiful 
daughters of my own country, but they do not object to being 
very scantily clad, and bathing with you. I must confess this 
want of consistency, or rather this primitive idea of fig-leaf- 
date, was rather a " stopper in my pipe" at first ; though, like 
other bashful young men, I soon recovered my equanimity, 
and enjoyed '' old-fashions" in old-fashioned style. Alto- 
gether, I really believe I prefer them to the many new-fangled 
notions, under a heavy press of which, propriety is altogether 
lost sight of, nature checked, and good old common sense re- 
duced to old fogyism, and its relative chances — bad fare and 
" back seats." 



OUR VISIT TO THE ADVOCATE'S. 110 

The Hon. W. F. Boone, United States Consul-General, 
one evening accompanied me to visit several ladies, daughters 
of an advocate. We entered, and found the mother swinging 
in a hammock, her daughters sitting at the door. I ushered 
him in with little ceremony, omitting, of course, his titular 
appendage. After a few moments we heard what seemed to 
each of us to be a very familiar noise, and after a careful 
survey, observed a female pig with her family, in the extreme 
corner of the room. The father of this pork brood was root- 
ing and grunting away in a very undignified manner, and ad- 
vanced between the General and our entertainers with a sang 
froid only equalled by the want of notice of the intrusion 
upon the part of the ladies. This rather confused the Consul, 
and he remembers the visit to the advocate's house to this 
day, and often laughs as he recalls the incident. And 
yet you pass a pleasant agreeable evening ; and it is only 
in proportion as you enter and indulge in female society 
everywhere, that a just appreciation of national character 
may be formed. In other cases, you find many of the com- 
forts enjoyed at home — sofas, bedsteads, carpets, mattrasses, 
pianos and other articles of luxury. Dress varies in style and 
arrangement, according to class and age. 
\ The country around Managua is probably as rich and fer- 
tile as in any other portion of the State. Fine fruits are 
abundant, and can be purchased for a trifle ; but as a resi- 



120 NICARAGUA. 

dence, I prefer Granada, or the country about Kivas, 
probably because at those points more foreigners may have 
settled, and the public houses generally kept by them afforded 
every delicacy which could be obtained. The diet of the 
country is very simple, though you find many Jamaica cooks, 
or those who have been taught the secrets of the French 
larder, who may be engaged for from two and a half to three 
and a half dollars per .month, while the Spanish can be had 
for from one and a half, to two dollars. Prices vary, suddenly 
and frequently. 

From the fact of the meeting of the Legislative Assembly 
in this city, a great number of the elite reside here, and con- 
sequently the society is desirable. At the posada we patron- 
ized. General Chamorro and suite were quartered ; and as he 
maintained an elevated position in the estimation of his 
admirers, and subsequently was elected Supreme Director, we 
may add our personal recollections of him. In height he 
was about five feet, six inches ; corpulent, possessed the air of 
a man " well to do in the world," and conscious of his posi- 
tion and his ability. His face was oval, eye large, features 
regular, and was withal quite prepossessing. His counte- 
nance indicated a good-liver, a good feeder ; a jovial expres- 
sion illumed his eye as you approached him ; and, to a 
stranger, he seemed any thing but that which his enemies 
and rivals would have induced us to believe. 



CHARACTER OF GENERAL CIIAMORRO. 121 

His officers were much attached to him, and he had the 
utmost confidence of his soldiers. He possessed the secret 
of swaying the mass with an impromptu manner, that dis- 
armed malice, and which gave a certain recklessness to self, 
both dazzling and attractive. His enemies vilified him when 
they proclaimed him a coward. His defense of what he 
deemed sacred, the Constitution and his country, at Granada, 
during the revolution, when General Muiioz led the opposing 
party, which was defeated frequently, and which subsequently 
was commanded by General Walker, is a recorded denial of 
this charge ; for he spurned quarter, refused truce, and even 
when the enemy encamped about the city, and nearly starved 
his rank and file, he did not swerve. He was ubiquitous ; he 
visited every post, inspected the arms, commanded in person 
foraging parties, and finally fell a victim to his over-exertion. 
Let me not hear these idle calumnies. If he differed with me, 
or with the party with whom my countrymen were joined, 
there should be at least the truth told of our adversary ; and 
I know that the future will be generous to him. He battled 
for his rights ; he defended his countrymen when called to 
the post of trust and honor ; occupied it with ability, and 
died, mourned and beloved. 

And here, leaving the corpse of one of the leading men of 
the State, with whom history will have much to do, let us 
turn to another, celebrated as the " Great Captain" for many 



122 NICARAGUA. 

years, and whose life has been as eventful as chequered, 
namely, General Jose Trinidad Munoz. His Excellency had 
visited the United States, and had been in the Mexican army 
under General Santa Anna. He possessed a proper appre- 
ciation of the Americans, for whom he ever decidedly evinced 
his preference. He was about five feet eight or nine inches 
in height, rather spare, had a commanding figure, a fine in- 
tellectual head, a full and very expressive eye, a clear voice, 
a quickness, remarkable in Central America, in forestalling 
your conclusion, an agreeable smile, and was as courteous 
and affable in his casa as any man I ever knew. His lady 
was a rare specimen of Nicaraguan beauty, as also her sister, 
both of whom I believe were born in Leon. He was a native 
of Granada. He was an admirer of the great Napoleon, and 
wore his chapeau, top-boots, and coat, a la Bonaparte. In 
his saloon, he had engravings of several of the chief battles 
of that distinguished hero, and evidently desired to imitate 
him so far as the artists could aid him. He was General-in- 
Chief of the army for many years ; and as war was his profes- 
sion, when peace settled with healing wings over his own 
State, he offered his services to others, and thus '' kept his 
hand in." We shall meet with him hereafter, and shall only 
here record our judgment. 

He had a certain dash of talent, and the secret of its being 
produced at certain times ; he possessed also the tact of 



GENERAL MUNOZ. . 123 

producing it all at ouce. He had a certain degree of fore- 
sight. He knew, sooner or later, the flag of his country 
must be succeeded by another, and he had sufficient pru- 
dence to communicate this only to those whom he knew also 
were ready to aid him. He felt the part which England was 
endeavoring to play in Central America, and had the good 
sense to nerve his countrymen to oppose her machinations ; 
but the honest, heartfelt patriotism, the pure devotion to 
his country's welfare, the desire to be great only in the hearts 
of his countrymen, the disregard of foreign influence, the 
abandon of self, and the courage, perseverance, and never- 
give-up, inborn religious principles of Chamorro — these he 
never inherited. 

Pursuing a well-beaten road over level ground, we passed 
out of Managua, and pursued our tour, while our refreshed 
animals gave evidence of renewed pace and spirits. Every- 
where we met detachments of troops posted, and moving 
rapidly from place to place, for an attack from the opposite 
party, under General Munoz, was hourly expected. Scouts 
were stationed at intervals along the camino real, and we 
halted at the foot of a high eminence — which is the only one 
between Granada and the Pacific, via Leon — to prepare our 
nags for its ascent. A road also has been constructed around 
this ridge to the left, so that in the rainy season, when the 
ground is slippery, the arduous toil of surmounting it may be 



124 NICARAGUA. 

obviated. It is the work of General Munoz, who has achieved* 
and deserves great credit for the consummation thereof. 

The country spreads before us, refreshingly lovely. The 
ridge is steep, and the road winding over it very narrow. 
About half way up, to the right, a wall of masonry guards the 
traveler from a summersault down a frightful precipice, should 
his mule stumble ; while, on the left, a ridge of apparently 
loose rocks line the perpendicular immensity overhead. Should 
horsemen meet in this canalled ravine, there would be some 
difficulty in passing ; and how laden mules would accomplish 
this I cannot determine, save where the muleteer could find a 
niche by the way-side, in which he might temporarily house his 
animal. This wall is not remarkably durable ; and there are, 
at spaces, huge rocks remaining, which are so perfectly bal- 
anced that it seemed to us a slight effort on the part of one 
man would send them thundering down the abyss. This, how- 
ever, upon trial, we found required our united efforts. After 
much struggling, we detached a fragment, which swept with 
the noise of the broadside of a frigate down the craggy depth, 
crushing the young palm and the tender saplings. A myriad 
echoes came reverberating from glen, through cove, from rock 
to rock, from chasm to chasm, till in the far distance a low 
rumbling faintly told us of the onward rolling of our messenger. 
Glimpses of a beautiful outlined country are caught through 



THE MOUNTAIN PASS WAY. , 125 

detached groups of distant forests, and the calmly sleeping 
Lake creeps on the landscape, with its silvery bosom. 

The scene on our right, now that we have reached the sum- 
mit, is immensely grand. Upon the left we mark the serpen- 
tine road, creeping over the hills, and threading its course 
through level stretches, and again lost in a copse of gigantic 
■ trees. Upon the extreme right, the picture is framed by out- 
lined eminences ; while on the rear, or toward the point of our 
ofi'set, the forests, vales, and flowering cacti, are margined by 
the silver setting of Lake Managua. The view repays us for 
having chosen this mountain passage-way — tinkling bells 
coine swelling gently up from a few straggling mules, laden 
with corn and fodder. We hasten from the narrow summit- 
defile, and pass on to the base of the ridge, once more halting 
'neath the cool shade of a gigantic Cebia, 

Our road is now apparently an easy one, and we jog along 
at a quiet pace, descrying a few huts ahead, where we will 
refresh selves and mules, although we have ridden scarce two 
leagues. Here we are already observed by the outposts, and 
not knowing whether we will be permitted to pass quietly, 
inasmuch as our " passport" bears the signet of the General of 
the opposing faction. There are rumors also floating of Ameri- 
cans having joined the enemy, and consequently we prepare 
to defend ourselves, and break, if necessary, the blockade 
ahead. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

MATEARES — POPULATION — APPEARANCE — THE HOUSE OF OUR HOST — OUR EXIT 

— OUR PASS — LAKE MANAGUA — A HOT SUN AND AN INFERNAL ROAD 

A HUT AT HAND — A FRIEND IN NEED — A STREAM — A HALT — A BATH — NAGA- 
ROTE — A POSADA — THE LAND — HOST AND HOSTESS — MUSQUITOES — ATTEMPT TO 

SLEEP — FARE FRIJOLES, TORTILLAS, AND AGUARDIENTE — PLEASANT RIDE, 

AND AN EARLY START — BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — DEER — 
ROADS — FIELDS OF MAIZE — SUNRISE — COCOA-NUTS — PALMS AND CALABASHES 
— CANE HUTS AND TRIM GARDENS — FINE CACTUS — PUEBLO NUEVO, AND A 
POSADA — OUR MEAL — BEYOND THE VILLAGE — FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY — 
SOIL AND TIMBER — THE PLAIN OF LEON — DITCHES — HUTS — NINE VOLCANOEa 
— GLIMPSE OF THE CATHEDRAL — GUADELUPE — CITY IN THE DISTANCE — 

EVIDENCES OF AN ANTICIPATED SALLY ON OUR ENTRANCE — OUR POSADA 

CUP OF CACAO — INHABITANTS — LEGACIES OP THE CONQUERORS — THE TROOPS 
• — DRAGOONS — RAINY SEASON — OUR HOST. 

We reached tlie paltry village of Mateares, at the junction 

of several roads, which in the United States would have borne 

the title of Mateares cross-roads. It comprises a few huts, 

and a rather respectable cuartel. The expectations of travelers 

(126) 



MATEARES AND THE HOUSE OF OL'R HOST. 121 

are not disappointed by the aspect of the place, for it has as 
little to recommend it as could be found anywhere ; while the 
fare at exorbitant prices corresponds. The people seem to be 
an intermediate race between the lowest of the Indians in the 
southern portions of the State, and the imported negro. The 
population is probably less than one hundred ; their occupa- 
tion any thing which may turn up, from the courier to the 
assassin ; and I am told, that during the frequent visits of the 
freebooters, in past days, to the State, a plentiful supply of 
villains could always be relied upon at a moment's notice from 
this village. Our guide whispered in my ear, to look out for 
our animals and purses, as the " whole breed were bad, very 
bad, and the government assassins were all quartered here." 
The village is hidden for the most part in palm, banana, 
orange and lemon groves ; after a stroll through the dense 
thickets about the place, I entered the house of our host. 
Arms were stacked around everywhere ; and I really think the 
natives I met, were the most abandoned-looking set that ever 
graced the decks of a piratical craft. 

We resumed our saddles after a dinner of hard-boiled 
eggs, corn-cakes, and bad water, tempered bountifully with 
aguardiente, and without a regret, left the place at a fast 
gallop, by a road to the right which led down a hill and 
thence upon a plain of some extent covered with trees. Here, 
as we emerged from the hot sun into the cool shade of over- 



128 NICARAGUA. 

arching palms, we observed a barrier ahead, and upon the left 
hand a hut of recent erection, in front of which a strong de- 
tachment of soldiers were drawn. We halted, handed to the 
superior officer our passport, and after many delays were per- 
mitted to advance. Beyond this post, we were in the country of 
the enemy, and we learned that detachments of the opposing 

parties had met a few miles beyond this in the morning, where 
a sharp conflict had ensued, in which the Grenadinos lost two 
men. Yigilance was therefore necessary. 

Passing through a copse, we found Lake Managua upon our 
right, while bare cliffs ran up abruptly on the left. The road 
was pebbled with colored stones, and the shores of the Lake 
covered with cranes and ducks, while overhead winged the 
gaudy parrots and the brilliantly-plumed macaws, mirroring 
back, resplendently, the fierce rays of the noon sun, which now 
in full force fell upon us. The heat was indeed intense ; the re- 
flection from the vast sheet beside us, and the rocks upon our 
left, penetrated by the hot, burning glare, only served to in- 
crease our uncomfortableness, as we turned in vain from side 
to side to escape the broiling, or to gain a moment's relief. 
The road was very sandy as we passed through clusters 
of a species of thorny or prickly willow, and really I deemed 
this place could be more distinctly named *'a hell," than the 
*' Infierno de Masaya." Upon the left hand, amid a cluster of 
trees, we observed a thin wreath of smoke slowly rising, and 



THE ROAD TO NAGAROTE. 129 

hastening up an ascending path, fonnd a hut, where we 
soon obtained lemonade, a few dulecs, and a swing in a 
hammock. 

The road now wandered from the Lake, running through 
cool and leafy coverts, and sweeping gradually again to the 
beach, alternating, till we reached the top of a hill, the foot 
of which was laved by a fine stream. This was a luxury in- 
deed, a halting-place for travelers, though not a hut is seen. 
The ground for a little space being cleared, and withal hard 
and firm, we unbuckled our girths, and lifting off the saddle- 
bags from the weary animals, refreshed ourselves, and bathed 
in the limpid rivulet, the first we had met since leaving 
Granada. Here we remained some time, and then pushed on 
for Nagarote, where we arrived after a tiresome ride, though 
the distance from Mateares is but two short leagues. 

Nagarote is an ill-looking village, a brother of Mateares, 
though boasting of probably three or four good houses. We 
found a posada, where boiled eggs, fried chickens, stale bread, 
and berries, were prepared for us at fair traveling rates, and 
I strolled about, vainly endeavoring to find any thing of in- 
terest. The land here is a stereotype of that through which 
we have passed ; though the face of the country begins to 
assume a more level character ; the orange and lemon trees 
are not so prolific, but the cactus seems more exuberant. 
The village is composed of straggling cane huts, alive with 
9 



130 NICARAGUA. 

children, and we found here a welcome worthy of our own 
country. The host and hostess were sensible people, and 
knew that Americans would pay well, and consequently 
attended to our table, supplying it bountifully. 

After refreshments, we endeavored to take a siesta ; but 
between little lizards crawling about me, musquitoes sing- 
ing in my ears, and fleas biting me, I cursed the whole 
race of nuisances, and resolved to walk and nod rather than 
submit quietly to be thus fed upon. To saddle our nags and 
accomplish the distance to the next village was not in our 
power, for we had ridden slowly, and fished in the Lake, and 
hence were compelled to remain all night. I drew from my 
cabas several bundles of cigars, and sitting in my hammock, 
puffed avvay the thoughts of sleep, leisurely surveying my 
sleeping companioas. ' One was kicking at an ever-restless 
flea, another slapping at a vigilant musquito, another cursing 
the hard-boiled eggs, tortillas, and frijoles, another, the 
country and the bad aguardiente, until finally awakened by 
the clouds of smoke emanating from my cigars, they laughed 
heartily to see me taking the whole affair so philosophically. 

A word, now, for aguardiente, tortillas, and frijoles. Aguar- 
diente is the rum of Nicaragua, and is a government mo- 
nopoly. Sweet Spanish wines and light French wines may be 
had, as also Champagne, Sherry, Maderia, Cognac, and all the 
varieties of other countries. The duty is one dollar and 



TORTILLAS AND FRIJOLES. 131 

twenty-five cents per gallon upon all liquors, and hence there 
is no reason why a common article should be imported. There 
is also a liqueur brought from Peru, called Pisco or Italia, 
which is very fine, though not so gentle in its effects as has 
been remarked by some writers. Its manufacture is confined 
to a small amount, though, at Panama and Yalparaiso, a 
spurious article bearing the name can readily be obtained. 

The standard, I may add the national dishes, are tortillas 
or corn-cakes, and frijoles or beans. The first are made of 
corn, ears of which are carefully selected. The grains are 
soaked in alkali, to remove the hull or shell, and subsequently 
allowed to soak for a little while. They are then placed on 
a grinding stone, called metlatl, and reduced to the proper 
consistency by being beaten with a long roand stone roller or 
pounder, similar to the whet-stone used in our harvest fields 
in the United States ; a little cheese is added, w^hen Anita 
or Mercedes beat the batter into flat cakes, and place them 
in warm earthen pans. When nicely browned upon one 
side, they are turned, and in a little time we have them on 
our plates, crisp and smoking. If good butter could be ob- 
tained, tortillas would be indeed desirable ; but I preferred 
ship-bread, or crackers. 

Frijoles are beans of a different flavor and appearance from 
those of our latitude. They are small, and in color ranging 
from white to black. Tortillas, frijoles, and hard-boiled eggs 



132 NICARAGUA. 

comprise the Bill of Fare of every Nicaraguan pcsada ; and 
if any of my readers feel their inability to bolt the trio, the 
sooner he or she cultivates their concerted-acquaintance, the 
more proficient will he or she be in the science of getting 
their money's worth in a tour through El Paraiso de 
Mahoma. 

We roused the household, and after a little delay, resad- 
dled our nags and left. The air was cool, the road level, 
the sun had not yet risen, and it was a delightful beginning 
to a day which we knew full well would be a "scorcher." 
As we descended a short curve, we could see, tracing above 
us on either hand, gigantic towers, turretted battlements, all 
seemingly real, although but piles of rocks, and we felt as 
though we were passing through a land of enchantment, so 
calm was all around. No dust, and not a sound, save as a 
timid deer, roused by the tramp of our mules, sprang from 
his covert, dashed past us, and went leaping through the 
glades. Dimly seen, outlined against the just flickering gray 
dawn back-ground, rocks, grouped together, appeared like 
embattled garrisons, and we were struck also with the many 
narrow defiles which could be so ably defended by a small 
party against a host, and wondered why such positions had not 
been occupied by one or the other of the combatting parties. 

The road is at times broad, smooth, and free from ruts and 
heavy washes, and for many miles there would be no difGculty 



A LUXURIANT COUNTRY. 133 

in driving a carriage at a fair speed. It would require, how- 
ever, but very little outlay to render all the roads in the 
State reliable; but while its manufactures and productions 
are sufficient only for home consumption, it would not be 
policy to incur this heavy expense. At length the road leads 
us from the depths of dimly-shadowed forests to an open 
country, where, now that the sun has risen, we see finely 
cultivated fields of maize, groves of fruits, maranons, jocotes, 
nisperos, and mamays, while on the right hand the tall, feathery 
palm, towers grandly up, with the calabash ladened with its 
golden -colored burden. Beyond again, we find the cocoa- 
nut peering out, with its heavy top bathed in the sun's first 
rays ; and a little farther on we reach cane huts and trim 
gardens, that woo us to a hearty breakfast. 

The cactus here grows to perfection. The fences are formed 
of it. It grows to the height of from twenty to twenty-five feet, 
and in circumference from twenty-five to thirty-six inches. I 
have seen a variety of birds issuing from their nests in the 
stalk of a single cactus. From a distance, you are surprised 
at the singular appearance of these flowering fences. They 
are so regular, and so closely planted together, that it is im- 
possible for a pig or dog even to find exit through them. This 
species of the plant is very prevalent ; and another, the trail- 
ing, or broad-leaved, is equally as singular in its immense size, 
though it is not so useful. After reaching the summit of the 



134 NICARAGUA. 

slight ascent before us, we entered the village of Pueblo 
Kuevo, and sought a posada, where, after a ride of five 
leagues, we were glad to rest, ere pushing on to Leon. We 
had accomplished the worst portion of the journey ; the rough 
country was behind, and the fertile plain of Leon before us, 
covered with forests, through which we determined to travel 
at our ease, for the day was yet young, and we had no induce- 
ment to hasten. Our old friends, chickens, beans, corn-cakes, 
and tiste, were before us, and we did ample justice to the out- 
spread meal. 

The road beyond Pueblo Nuevo is broad and smooth, lined 
with palm and odoriferous trees. The country assumed the 
features of having been at one time well cultivated ; the 
forests are far from virginal, and the soil is probably of a more 
loamy character than any we have yet observed. We are 
now twenty-four miles from Leon. Ascending a hill some few 
miles from our point of starting, through occasional .breaks in 
the forest, volcanoes loom up in the distance, broad fields of 
grass sweep to the outlined mountains, while clumps of the 
stately palm rise up like landmarks on the vast plain of Leon 
before us. There is nothing to interrupt the view. The 
country is all cleared, the road perfectly level, and on either 
hand are well-made ditches, verifying the suggestion that, at one 
time, the soil has been cultivated, JSTumerous huts are seen, 
and during the warm afternoon you gladly seek therein shelter 



LEON, THE RIVAL OF ORANADA. 135 

from the sun, or refresh yourself, after a lon^ ride over a 
waterless road. Nine volcanoes margin and dot this magnifi- 
cent plain, among which the most prominent are Yiejo, Telica, 
Momotombo, and Orota. 

We rode on, the towers of the Cathedral gleaming not far 
distant, and our desire to visit the rival of Granada, and learn 
the particulars of the current Kevolution, stimulated us to 
renewed efforts. Passing through the Indian suburb of 
Guadelupe, we descended a ravine, and emerged upon a 
broad, paved street into the city of Leon. Everywhere, as in 
Managua, we met detachments of troops. After a few halts, 
and passing numerous barricades, we entered upon the plaza, 
where at least two thousand soldiers were training and 
lounging, and where we found evidenced- in preparation of 
an anticipated sally upon the enemy. We hastened to the 
posada, and, after a cup of cacao, received the many friends 
who thronged to w^elcome us, and subsequently paid our 
respects to the American Minister. 

The inhabitants differ from those in the Southern Depart- 
ment, being lighter in color, more dignified, and more like the 
Hidalgos of old Spain. There is, in Leon, an aristocratical 
air, a settled aversion to Granada, and a distinct selfishness 
of belief in the superiority of their city, which surprised me. 
I 'had never expected to find such nice, invidious distinctions, 
drawn in this part of the world ; yet I found, during my stay, 



136 NICARAGUA. 

that the Conquerors had left all their vices, and carried with 
them only their virtues, which, as they were but few, they 
could stow in a small compass. 

The soldiers were drawn up in front of the Cathedral as 
we returned from our stroll, and I witnessed the evolutions 
of a small detachment of dragoons — which I subsequently 
discovered was composed of Americans, and a small body of 
native artillerists — that would have reflected credit upon more 
experienced soldiers. 

The sun sank, and the rain began to fall heavily. The 
rainy season had just set in, and we stowed ourselves away 
in the house, where, in the society of the pleasant family 
who kept the posada, we passed a very agreeable and de- 
lightful eve. From my host I learned much of the city 
of Leon ; and as he reverted to Granada, his eye would 
brighten, and his thin lip wreathe with disdain, as he drew 
comparisons, either between the towns or their inhabitants. 
A jicara of aguardiente as we sought our ox-hide beds, and 
lulled to repose by the pattering rain on the tiled roof, I soon 
sank into a state of dreamy and blessed unconsciousness. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

HISTORICAL INTERLUDE — LOCATION OF LEON — RUINED HOUSES — THE PLAIN- 
SUBURBS — CANE HUTS — PIRATES IN 1685 — REVOLUTIONS — THE CATHEDRAL 

ITS SIZE, COST, DESCRIPTION — THE INTERIOR — THE ORGAN — THE GREAT 

ALTAR — PORTRAITS — CONFESSIONAL CHAIRS GALLERY — YIE"W FROM THK 

ROOF COLLEGE OF ST. RAMON — THE EPISCOPAL PALACE — THE CUARTEL 

THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE — LA MERCED — CALVARIO — RECOLLECCION 

STATUES — SUBTIABA — PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL— ALTARS — MARKET OF LEON 
— FRUITS — TRADE — STORES AND MERCHANTS — THE BISHOP's BATHS — PAR- 
AISO DE MAHOMA — CLIMATE — THE BISHOP — HIS CARRIAGE — MR. SQUIER — • 
A VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF SAN PEDRO — BAPTISM OF A VOLCANO — PLAIN 

OP LEON — EARTHQUAKES — A VISIT TO GENERAL MUNOZ — HIS ATTENDANTS 

A TETE-A-TETE — A WORD OR TWO — HIS RESIDENCE AND FAMILY. 

This city was founded by Hernandez de Cordova in 1523. 
Its original site was near the base of the volcano of Momo- 
tombo, which, however, was abandoned in 1610 for the present 
locality, formerly a large Indian village, Subtiaba, now a 
municipality of Leon. ^ It is about half way between Lake 
Managua and the Pacific, and covers a vast area, built upon 

(13T) 



138 NICARAGUA. 

as in Granada and Managua, tliougTi a finer class of houses 
originally existed here, many of which are now shapeless 
ruins. A few still remain, and those are not in the best 
state of preservation. The principal entrances to some of 
these edifices exhibit considerable taste and skill. Above 
some of the portal-arches, the arms of the nobler class were 
placed ; and altogether, even in the ruins, a grandeur is per- 
ceived not met with elsewhere in the country. 

The plain we passed over, described in our last chapter, sur- 
rounds the city ; the land is fertile and particularly adapted 
to the culture of sugar-cane and cotton. Upon two sides are 
ravines, through which fine streams of water flow, whence 
the inhabitants are supplied ; the article being purer and 
fresher than that to be had in other localities. The suburbs 
are composed of cane huts, some with mud, others with tiled 
roofs. The city suffered extensively and frequently from the 
English pirates, in 1685, who sacked it, burned the cathedral, 
the convent, and many of the principal edifices. Subsequent 
to the Declaration of Independence, a war ensued between 
the Serviles and the Liberals, during which the richest por- 
tions of the town were destroyed. 

A -few of its public buildings are worthy of notice. The 
Cathedral of St. Peter, on the eastern side of the grand 
])laza, was commenced in 1106 and finished in lt43, occupy- 
ing thirty-seven years in its completion, and is deservedly 



THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. PETER. 139 

called the finest edifice in Nicaragua. Its cost is said to 
have been from four to five millions of dollars. Its front 
occupies the width of the plaza. It is built of cut stone, 
light in color. There are six or seven immense arches upon 
the roof; and its strength may be better arrived at when it is 
said that ten thousand troops have been concentrated upon 
it at one time, with no less than thirty pieces of artillery. 
Its ornaments are stucco. The interior is chaste, and almost 
devoid of ornament. 

The great altar, at the easternmost extremity, is composed 
of silver, handsomely graven, though it has been despoiled in 
the numerous contests. The side altars are plain and un- 
attractive. Within a side room are many portraits of the 
bishops, rather rude in execution and harsh in color. Both 
the front and rear were once ornamented with the Royal arms 
of old Spain, but these have been removed. The confessional 
cITairs are placed in the northern and southern aisles, but 
w'ere vacant during my visit. A small gallery extends over 
the main portal, and there I found an organ. The friend 
who accompanied me, the father-in-law of General Munoz, 
asked me to perform. I touched the keys, but found its 
voice harsh and discordant. It wanted tuning badly, and 
had I had even a pair of pincers, should have volunteered 
my services. At one time the wealth of the cathedral 
was enormous ; but at present it is a massive and elegant 



140 NICARAGUA. 

edifice, which only at a small expense, conld be restored to its 
primal magnificence. From its roof, the Pacific and nine 
volcanoes can be seen ; the view is the finest that can be 
obtained of so many remarkable objects at one glance. 

The College of St. Ramon, founded in 1675, an university 
of law and medicine, is to the left, and like many other public 
buildings grouped below us, it has fallen, though efforts at 
restoration are being made. Adjoining this is the Episcopal 
Palace. It is built of adobes, has two balconies, tiled roof, 
and was at one time a splendid residence. 

The cuartel, or barracks of the Government forces, is a large 
building on the south side of the plaza, where are stationed 
the troops, constantly on the alert, and in readiness for action. 
The Government House is opposite, and occupies the entire 
north side. It has a large, raised corridor along its front, 
and is higher than other adjacent buildings. It is built of 
adobe, and beyond this is in no respect remarkable. The 
churches of La Merced, Calvario, and Recolleccion, are fine 
structures. The niches in the fa9ade of the Calvario are 
filled with the statues of saints, and ornamented with panels 
of scriptural groups. The Merced contains a few paintings, 
and its altar piece is decidedly good. A convent, formerly 
attached to this, has been abolished. There are many other 
churches, though smaller, and more or less in progress of 
decay. The municipality of Subtiaba contains some good 



MARKETS AND BATHS OB^ LEON. 141 

buildings, a fine plaza, and a cathedral second to that of 
Leon. The interior is tastefully arranged. It has eight 
altars, four or five chapels, and many columns with gilt capi- 
tals. Its proportion is graceful, and altogether I think it 
the handsomest of any church in the country. From a city, 
Subtiaba has degenerated to a municipality, and it is fast 
''fading and falling away." 

The market of Leon is probably better supplied than that of 
Granada. Pine-apples, melons, oranges, limes, lemons, papayas, 
pomegranntes, plantains, bananas, beans, corn, nisperos, jocotes, 
and a variety of other edibles, are clustered together upon 
the northwestern side of the plaza every morning. The city 
has but little trade beyond a mere supply of home wants, the 
principal business being carried on at Chinandega, two leagues 
from Realejo. However, the stores are well stocked, the mer- 
chants rich, and its inhabitants generally landed proprietors. 

The Bishop's Baths, beyond the ravine, on the western 
side of the city, is a beautiful spot. There are a number of 
stone seats and the remnants of pedestals, no doubt upon 
which statues were once placed, grouped together under 
arched, leafy trees. The baths were of stone, and I bathed 
ill the pure water at least more perfectly pleased than I did 
when swimming in the Lake, for here I feared not the 
shark nor the alligator. There are many beautiful localities 
of a similar character about the city. The streets are paved, 



142 NICARAGUA. 

though, unlike those in the United States, they incline to the 
centre ; channels are thus formed for the floods of water which 
deluge the city during the rainy season, and the side-walks are 
left perfectly dry. The city was styled by some of the ancient 
chroniclers, " Mahomet's Paradise," and truly it could be ren- 
dered so at very little outlay. The climate seems purer here 
than in Granada, the sun less broiling, and the evenings 
cooler. The streets are cleaner, and for a residence, many 
would prefer it on account of its pure water and general 
healthfulness. 

The bishop I met frequently, in his carriage, returning from 
a purveying tour. Ensconced behind a load of fodder which 
completely filled the dasher and the front of the vehicle, you 
would only hear his snuffle as he approached, or sometimes as 
he recognized a passing friend. He has been a great man, 
and once wielded a mighty power in affairs of State, but this 
influence is passing away. As the Anglo-Saxon advances, ihe 
shadow of ideality decreases, and superstition must and will 
give way to education and commercial intercourse with enlight- 
ened nations. I will here leave the City of Leon, for Mr. 
Squier, during his residence, gathered every information con- 
cerning it, and has given it publicity; the reader may rely upon 
that writer's truthful and graphic description. Mr. Squier was 
very popular among the inhabitants, and every avenue was 
opened gladly by the natives to his inspection. He filled his 



VIEW FROM THE ilOOF OF SAN PEDRO. 148 

post with honor, and won for every subsequent American tra- 
veler a ready and hearty welcome. 

Standing on the arched roof, or rather upon an arch on 

the roof of San Pedro, what an immensity of space recog« 

nizable lies within the eye's grasp. This is a truly volcanic 

vicinity. The volcanoes of Central America margin the Pacific. 

Those of Nicaragua, active or full of being, with the extinct 

craters, are as follows : Joltepec, Coseguina, Orota, Telica, 

Santa Clara, El Yiejo (six thousand feet high), Las Pilas, 

Acosusco, Momotombo (six thousand five hundred feet high), 

Managua, Nindiri or Masaya, Momobacho, Solentiuami, Gun- 

acaure, Gunapepe, Zapatero, Ometepec, Madeira, Orosi, 

Kincon de la Yieja, Tenerio, Meriballes, Cerro Pelas, and 

Abogado. There are fourteen volcanoes within one hundred 

miles, standing singly, and all abound with hot springs and 

floods of lava, with other evidences of their vitality. It is a 

well-known fact that new volcanoes are in course of formation 

not alone in this State, but also in other portions of the globe ; 

and it is not unusual in this country for some dignitary of the 

church to be called upon to baptize the new mountain, or to 

stand godfather for it, to bless it, and thus to endeavor at least 

to keep the invader within proper bounds for the future. 

The plain of Leon, at its most elevated point, is from one 
hundred and eighty to two hundred and ten feet above the 
sea. Yolcanic eruptions are more violent and perhaps I may 



^ 144 NICARAGUA. 

add more frequent about the first of November and the first of 
• May, these being the entrance and the close of. the wet and 
dry seasons — probably more severe at the former date. As 
many as sixty shocks in twenty-four hours, continuing too for 
several days, have occurred, during which the lightning flashed 
with remarkable brilliancy ; these shocks are said to be strongest 
during the night. 

I received a card from G-eneral Munoz, and having deter- 
mined to call upon him ere leaving Leon, strolled forth one 
morning for the purpose. I found his house a complete bar- 
rack ; at least three hundred soldiers were in his garden and 
about the corridors, and I received a challenge from every 
sentry, even though within the casa proper. I found him in 
his drawing-room, seated, studying a chart of tlie country. As 
I approached, he rose, and warmly welcomed me. I had ample 
opportunity — as he was reading a note just handed to him upon 
my entrance — to study his features. I found them decidedly 
Mexican. His brow was indicative of deep, rapid thought. 
There was a certain decision in the thin lip, but a vacillating 
energy in his nervous glance, which failed to impress me with 
the greatness of the General, whose prowess seemed to be uni- 
versally admitted. In person, he was spare, well-formed ; in 
demeanor, gentle, and apparently confiding ; but it seemed to 
me that where his interests were vested, there would he mould 
himself; there was a strata of cunning in his nature, a want of 



GEN. MUNOZ — HIS BEAUTIFUL WIFE AND SISTER. 145 

will, a seeking after, a courting of applause, no matter from 
what source. It was the title, not the public good he sought : 
and in his conversation there was a world of leaven. Yet he 
was beloved by the masses ; and the natives of Subtiaba, who 
had fought and conquered the enemies of the State, followed 
him, nor murmured at the decisions of fortune. Had he sur- 
vived the revolution, Nicaragua would, without doubt, have 
sought admission into our Union ere this, for the General at 
least listened to some purpose, and could easily see the waning 
apathy which pervaded all classes of his countrymen. 

His lady and her sister were the most beautiful ladies I saw 
in the country, and yet I could not trace much similarity of 
feature to the many I had heretofore met. There was more 
intellectuality in their chiseled features, more decision in the 
eye, a subdued though accustomed tone of questioning, a 
suavity and not the gravity of expression of the general class, 
a rare appreciation of foreign elements, and finally a positive 
knowledge of the true position of their country, which rendered 
them to me the most pleasant trio I had met. His house was 
furnished with a variety of elegancies, and many luxuries, all 
of which were foreign. The walls were hung with pictures, 
his book-case filled with rare volumes, his memory stored with 
valuable information, and there was the cordiality and hospi- 
tality of the most polished Southerner. Couriers arriving and 
departing were ushered into our presence, either to deliver 
10 



146 NICARAGUA. 

special news, or to receive privately final orders, which in no- 
wise discomposed either of the ladies. 

His senora at times partook of his love of excitement, and 
wished she were a man to aid her husband in furthering his 
plans for emancipation, and although slender, and apparently 
fragile, still her deep-hued eye, gleaming with intense fervor, 
would belie the apparent feebleness of her constitution. The 
Bishop Don Jorge Yiteri Y Ungo, who was appointed in 
1849, aided, and openly countenanced Munoz ; and naught 
relating to church privileges throughout the entire State was 
transacted without the especial permission of his Excellency. 
An American, whose wife died after a short sojourn in 
Granada, desired to remove her remains to the United States. 
He was told by the city authorities that, ere they could grant 
him permission, he must have the sanction of the bishop. 
Although the latter was known to favor the enemy, yet his in- 
fluence was unimpaired in church matters, and the American was 
compelled to seek Leon, where, with the aid of General Muiioz, 
he obtained tire consent desired. Had he failed, he could not 
have removed Uev corpse. 



CHAPTER XV. 

CITY OF LEON — HISTORY — DECREE OF ANNEXATION TO THE UNITED STATES — ■ 

CONSTITUTION ADOPTED — ABOLISHMENT OP PAPAL BULLS, MONASTERIES 

ABRIDGMENT OF CERTAIN ECCLESIASTICAL PRIVILEGES — THE NATIONAL FLAG- 

THE BISHOP, ARCHBISHOP, AND HIS HOLINESS THE POPE — VARIOUS WARS 

— GENERAL MORAZAN — CARRERA — MALESPIN — CAPTURE OP SAN JUAN BY THE 

ENGLISH — SAMOZA — A KNIGHT — HIS REVOLUTION — CAPTURE AND DEATH 

DEATH OP MUNOZ — PRESIDENT PINEDA'S SUMMARY REMOVAL — WALKER — A 
CHANGE COMES OVER NICARAGUA THOUGHTS AND SPECULATIONS. 

Leon has been the scene of many severe and sanguinary 
struggles, especially in the wars between the Servile and 
Liberal factions. The Serviles of the States adjoining Nica- 
ragua determined upon placing the entire country under the 
sovereignty of Mexico, with Iturbide as emperor. Step by 
ste'p the battle was fought. Hopes long sustained in secret by 
the Monarchists, found full vent. The Republicans were aroused 
first at San Salvador, Guatemala ; they adopted measures for 

(I4T) 



148 NICARAGUA. 

defense and resistance, and defeated the army sent by Mexico. 
Granada was second in the field ; San Jose in Costa Rica, third ; 
while in Leon, the bishop who favored the monarchy, opposed 
republican principles, and advocated, by threats of excom- 
munication, the Mexican scheme. Battle succeeded battle ; the 
imperial forces were soon arrayed ; and the Liberals of San Sal- 
vador, after a remarkable contest, were forced to submit. 

In 1822 the Mexican government was proclaimed in Guate- 
mala, and by an Imperial decree the country was divided into 
three Captain-Generalcies : the Serviles of course filling every 
post of emolument, profit, or honor. Though the Liberals 
were defeated, they remained true to their principles, and the 
Provisional Congress still remained unbroken. It was during 
this period of distrust and anarchy, that the country having 
become truly and purely nationalized, this Congress resolved 
upon annexation to the United States of America ; and by an 
act dated December 2d, 1822, decreed its incorporation with 
the American Confederacy ; and yet true as this is, how singular 
that our Government took no action in the matter. The dream 
of monarchy was soon dispelled. The Serviles were beaten by 
the recoil of their own magnificently adjusted plans. Iturbide 
was dead, and without foreign aid, they could not sustain 
themselves, while the Kepublicans assumed their prior position. 
Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, San Salvador, and Hon- 
duras, determined upon an union of States, declaring themselves 



THE REPUBLIC AND THE NATIONAL FLAG. lid 

iudepeudeut of Spain, Mexico, and every other power, wliile 
Chiapas alone remained subservient to Mexico. This decree 
is dated July 1st, 1823. 

The Constitution of the Confederation was adopted in 
November, 1824, in which was embodied the guaranties of in- 
dividual rights, the habeas corpus, the liberty of the press, the 
representative principle ; all of which, however, were corn- 
batted by its enemies. Titles and privileges of rank were 
abolished, the sale of papal bulls prohibited, all foreigners were 
guaranteed the security of their property, and the title of 
" The Republic of Central America" was fixed upon, and its 
national flag bore the device "five volcanoes," and the motto, 
, " Dios, Union, Libertad." By a decree passed April ITth, 
1824, slavery and slave-dealing were to be heavily punished. 
The Constitution, although published December 27th, 1823, 
was not decreed until November 22d, 1825. Matters swam 
happily on for a time, yet the Serviles, aided by the bishop, 
were not forever quieted ; and although his party were in the 
minority, they were men of wealth and influence ; after a 
time civil war again drenched the streets of Leon. For over 
one hundred days, brother met brother armed for the strife ; 
the richest and choicest portions of the city were burned ; one 
thousand dwellings were consumed by fire in a single night, 
and this butchery continued until the Liberals received a rein- 
forcement from San Salvador. The church had openly arrayed 



150 NICARAaUA. 

itself against Republicanism, and the war was one where 
quarter was neither asked nor granted. 

Then from this chaos rose the light, the beginning of better 
days. Schools were established which were made free. The 
soldier threw aside his knife and bayonet to hold in his brawny 
hand the primer ; and thus from a confusion of blood-stained 
cliques arose the Independence of Nicaragua. San Salvador 
deemed the power vested in the State to choose for herself 
her religious principles and its expounders, and acting thereon, 
elected or appointed one of its own citizens Bishop of the 
State. The Archbishop of course denounced the act, and the 
Pope himself threatened excommunication, but it fell fruit- 
lessly upon the ear — subsequently Costa Rica followed San 
Salvador. Years passed away, when the Serviles prepared 
for war, and the Liberals, taken by surprise, were overpowered. 
Many of their best men were brutally murdered ; finally, after 
a union of the forces of Nicaragua, Honduras, and Guate- 
mala, affairs were restored, while Costa Rica remained in her 
mountain fastnesses, a calm spectator of the butchery and assassi- 
nation of her sworn friends. General Morazan, probably the 
greatest man of Central America, certainly the man for the 
times in which he was born and lived, after assuming the 
leadership of the Republicans, determined to strike a blow at 
the church, and thereby relieve his oppressed and bleeding 
country. The Archbishop, and the heads of the monkish orders 



A BLOW STRUCK AT THE CHURCH. 161 

generally, the Capuchins, Dominicans and Franciscans, were 
arrested, escorted bj a military guard to a distant port, and 
thence banished. The convents were put to the use of the 
masses, and some appropriated for prisons, others for schools ; 
while the inmates of the nunneries were free to go where they 
pleased, and the future taking of the veil was prohibited. 

In 1832, all laws recognizing the Catholic creed as the 
faith of the, country were annulled, and freedom to worship 
the Creator as each desired, was decreed by the several 
States. From this confederacy, in 1829 'or 1830, Costa Rica 
seceded, and maintained a neutrality ; but in 1831, when the 
Republic was re-established, she re-entered. Various events, 
similar in character to those described, followed, till in 1838, 
when a convention assembled in Nicaragua, and then and 
there declared Nicaragua an independent Republic, and 
framed its constitution. Honduras followed ; each, however, 
sustaining the idea of nationality, and providing for the 
resuming of their positions when there should be a confede- 
rated reorganization. Years sped, and the changes which 
marked former times, still followed the successive periods, 
till Morazan with his two sons was shot at San Jose, in 
1842, after a glorious struggle for Republican principles. 

Carrera, his rival, thus swayed anew, till Malespin, a former 
bandit, having conciliated Morazan 's friends, was placed in 
power, but subsequently went to San Salvador, and occupied 



152 NICARAGUA. 

the command. Then a new emeute occurred, and Malespin 
invaded Nicaragua, and after a most sanguinary battle at 
Leon, was nobly defeated by a far inferior party. Nicaragua 
was again quiet. A local insurrection of not much importance 
soon transpired; then the English, in 1848, seized San Juan 
del Norte, and the battle of Serapaqui, on the San Juan River 
was fought. A rude fortification, of tree trunks, limbs, and 
boughs, was hastily made, and about one hundred and thirty 
men determined to contest the passage of the river, their 
arms, as I have elsewhere remarked, being condemned En- 
glish muskets and machetes. The English, in number three 
hundred, well armed, came up in boats, and after a fierce 
struggle, with the loss of fifteen or twenty men, the Nicara- 
guans were defeated. 

This occurred in February, 1848. Then followed Samoza's 
insurrection, in 1849. He was a somewhat remarkable man : 
brave, daring, dashing, full of humor, honor, and talent, and 
yet singularly balanced. There was a recklessness in his 
actions, a brilliant gleam of a hidden meteor through out his 
whole life, a promise of a hero half fulfilled : in fact, he had 
outlived his fellows. He was a knight, and fought principally 
with his lance. He dressed dashingly and gayly, sang an 
excellent song, told a good tale, and seemed ever intent upon 
dreams of knightly devoir. In truth, he was a most extra- 
ordinary lancer. He would leap from his horse while at a 



MAHOMET'S PARADISE BECOME A HELL. 153 

full rnn, and pick up a kerchief, or pierce an orange with his 
spear, at the same rate of speed. He fenced well, was enamored 
of the Americans, and raised this revolution in 1849, merely 
because he had nothing else to do. He was feared by a 
certain class, yet esteemed by the mass. He was taken in 
1850, at the command of General Munoz, and gibbeted at 
Rivas. 

In 1851, while Pineda was president, occurred that which 
I elsewhere have written ; and from that period Generals 
Munoz and Chamorro were adverse leaders in civil dissen- 
sions. The former was shot during an assault made by him 
on or near Chinandega, and Chamorro died in Granada during 
the siege of that city by the Munoz forces. General Walker 
then entered the arena ; we shall detail hereafter his ad- 
ventures. Thus, since the departure of the Conquerors, Ma- 
homet's Paradise has been more like a hell; and the country 
which furnished Spain with wealth and luxuries, how has she 
been repaid ? Every town has in turn been bathed in gore, 
every foot of her soil has been the death-bed of some of her 
children, and the vices of the early Spaniards have frightfully 
matured. 

I have sometimes thought, as I swung in my hammock 
through the twilight hours, listening to the dark-eyed daugh- 
ter of Granada, singing, or rather moaning her song, how like 
a dream all this of the Moriscos, and then I would endeavor 



154 NICARAGUA. 

to recall their history. They left Spain, dismembered, it 
seems for ever. Where fled they ? Some to Morocco, to 
Tunis, others — where ? I have thought, and breaking the 
repose of the languor which would ever follow her song, 
have asked: "Where did you learn that lay of the Cid ?'' 
The answer was, '' Oh, my mother taught me !" '' And where 
did she learn it?" "Oh, from home !" Perhaps she dreamed 
of that paradise forever lost to her, when torn from her race 
by the barbarous hand of Spain. 

There are many traits which remind me of the Moors : the 
arrangement of the hair, of the kerchief round the head, their 
figures, the proud, stately step, the high cheek-bone, the deep, 
earnest, piercing eye, the firm, proud lip, all distinct and in 
no respect alloyed by the grosser, sensual form, mien, or gaze 
of the Spanish race, or the admixture thereof. Would the 
impure race dream of a fatherland, and recognize its history 
in its songs ? I have been led to this digression, for I confess 
many, many times have I thought the matter over, and the 
more I thought the more my mind became confused. The 
liquid, minor melodies would find an echo in my soul, and 
arouse memories of the Alhambra's gardens, her terraced Clio's, 
her jeweled beauties, her noble, heroic children, and I felt 
welling o'er my soul a kindred tide of sympathy, while I 
clasped my guitar, to catch the echoing air, or perhaps only 
the melancholy murmuring refrain. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

LEON — STJBTIABA — COUNTRY — QUES ALGUAQUE -7- THE DESCENT — FRUITS 

POSULTEGA — CHICHIGALPA — POPULATION — COUNTRY AND FRUITS — A PLEA- 
SANT RIDE — A CHOICE ESTATE — CHINANDEGA — ITS COMMERCE AND INHABIT- 
ANTS — OLD CHINANDEGA — BAD ROAD TO REALEJO — REALEJO — ITS HARBOR 

CUSTOM HOUSE — DEPTH OF "WATER — DOCKS AND WAREHOUSES — CARDON — 
SAN JUAN DEL SUR — LOCATION — SIZE — HARBOR IMPROYEMENTS — THE PAPA- 
6AY0S — BRITO — COUNTRY BETWEEN SAN JUAN AND TIRGIN BAY — ROADS IN 
BAINY SEASON — VIRGIN BAY AGAIN — WHARF — TRANSIT COMPANY — RIO TIPI- 
TAPA — PASO CHICO — FALLS OP TIPITAPA — DEPTH OF THE RIVER — RIO GRANDE 
— SURFACE OP LAKE MANAGUA — DISTANCE FROM REALEJO — CHONTALES — 
PRODUCTS — MINERALS — WOODS — ANIMALS — LAND — STREAMS — CATTLE — AD- 
VICE AND REFLECTIONS. 

Leaving Leou, our journey leads through the suburbs 
of Subtiaba, and crossing a stream which runs laughingly 
through an arched and shady nook, we reach wide-spreading 
fields of corn. The road winds through open plains, and we 
reach the woods after a toasting, and seek a ravine whose 
banks are steep and high. At the foot we find quite a stream, 

(155) 



156 NICARAGUA. 

known as Quesalguaque. The descent is circuitous. In suc- 
cession, as we spur on, fields of pine-apples and corn appear, 
and we reach a small village called after the stream. Two 
leagues beyond, the road is broader, the country well wooded, 
and we find another village, Posultega, which contains a 
dilapidated church, and probably four or five hundred in- 
habitants. Two leagues farther, and we halt at Chichigalpa, 
an ancient Indian pueblo, which although dilapidated, has a 
population of five thousand. It is a pleasant spot, and just 
the place for a month's recruit. The country is level, and sup- 
plied with fruits. The pine-apples, particularly, are very 
luscious, the nisperos remarkably fine, and the oranges sweet 
and cheap. A pleasant ride of seven or eight miles over a 
well-shaded road brings us to San Antonio. This is a very 
large and choice estate. It was originally a sugar plantation. 
The house is commodious, well built, and well constructed, 
besides having been painted. A foreigner I heard had pre- 
viously owned it. 

A short ride, probably a league, brought us to Chinandega, 
which, if not so large as Granada, or Leon, is nevertheless the 
most flourishing city in the State. It contains about sixteen 
thousand inhabitants, and is truly the commercial emporium 
of Nicaragua. The houses are generally of a better class 
than in other towns, although they are built of the universal 
adobe, but with tiled roofs. Old Chinandega contains a pop- 



REALEJO — ITS IIARBOU AND WAREHOUSES. 157 

ulation of about five thousand, and is situated upon a stream 
which flows through it. It possesses little of interest, save a 
large old church, standing on a terrace in the plaza. A strange- 
looking wall margins the terrace edge, and above the flights 
of steps by which we ascend, are high arches, different from 
any thing seen in this country. Chinandega is regularly laid 
out in squares, and although in a level district, is an agreeable 
residence. 

The worst road, in fact the slipperiest, I ever traveled, espe- 
cially during the wet season, leads to Realejo, two leagues 
distant. This port is small, the land low, and most probably 
is very unhealthy. The Custom House is located here. It has 
a population of about one thousand or fifteen hundred. The 
town was originally built nearer the water, though on account 
of the numerous pirates who once frequented the coast, the 
present site was chosen as being farther removed from speedy 
visits and instant spoliation. Docks and warehouses, as also 
depots for coal have been built, and the port is far superior to 
any on the coast. The entrance to the harbor is protected by 
the Island of Cardon, which is about a mile and three quarters 
long, and so situated as to protect it from the boisterous winds 
and heavy swells which enter the outer bay of Conchagua 
from the Ocean. The North entrance is about a quarter of a 
mile wide, free from rocks, and has a mud bottom, and at no 
point has less thar five fathoms of water. Vessels may enter 



158 NICARAGUA. 

one of these openings with a leading wind, from any point of 
the compass. The inside consists of a fine basin not less than 
four fathoms deep, and two hundred ships at one time may here 
ride securely at anchor. Merchant vessels lie about a mile 
from the entrance, in the branch of a creek. Opposite the port 
there is a fine beach, the water being deep to its very edge. 
The rise and fall of the tide is eleven feet. ; 

San Juan del Sur was located in 1851, and although its 
harbor is small, and many speculators discouraged the capitalists 
from any investment in it in its early days, yet it has acquired a 
place upon the chart of Nicaragua, and is now one of its most 
thriving towns. There are a large number of broad streets, 
some fine hotels, good houses, and altogether it is really North 
American in its character. The Custom House is located here, 
and the Californians returning to the TJuited States have con- 
siderably augmented its resources ; the depth of water two 
hundred yards out, is about two fathoms. The entrance is 
about eleven hundred yards, between promontories at least 
four to five hundred feet high. The land is sandy. There are 
ten fathoms water at the entrance, and the tide rises fourteen 
feet. The Papagayos, or revolving winds, drive the sand into 
our plates as we sit at table, through our clothing, into our 
eyes and ears, and altogether, aside from its stirring char- 
acter as a depot, and as the port of exit for travelers by the 
Transit Route, it is far from being a pleasant residence. Lauds 



FROM SAN JUAN DEL SUIl TO VTUtJIN BAY. 159 

'are held remarkably liigli in the immediate vicinity. One mile 
North there is another port of about the same size, called 
Brito or Nacascolo. The approach to this portion of the 
coast for ships is extremely difficult during the season that 
the revolving' winds are in the ascendency. 

The country between San Juan del Sur and Yirgin Bay is 
high, well-timbered ; and prior to the road now constructed, 
the path between was in a truly horrible condition. During 
the rainy season, many mules were killed by over-exertion. 
The road was of a soft, slippery, clayey character, and very 
frequently I have seen mules dashing along, their backs cov- 
ered by the mud, and their heads only visible. Really it was 
a swim through a muddy sea. Many travelers perished in 
this short transit. The hotels at Yirgin Bay were composed "^ 
of tents without floors ; and for three coarse meals and a 
sleep in a hammock, strangers were charged four dollars per 
day, and very frequently, too, were compelled to sleep in the 
mud all night, or probably for a series of nights, when the 
steamers did not connect. I have seen many extreme cases of 
hardships which might have been prevented, had not a grasp- / 
iug monopoly governed all. In its incipient stage, this 
Transit Company was miserably managed ; but shrewd and 
careful officers succeeded in establishing it firmly. A wharf 
was constructed at this point, and the landing of passengers 
is effected with less difficulty than formerly. 



160 NICARAGUA. 

In 1852, the steamers would anchor about three-quarters 
of a mile from shore, where a rope would be passed to the 
land, and by this an immense launch would reach the vessel 
and return laden to the shore. The bottom of the Lake here 
is hard and shelving, and the winds often blow the small 
schooners ashore, where, after much difficulty they are secured 
and again launched. 

We have thus traveled through and around the State of 
Nicaragua. We have crossed the country from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific, have noticed the volcanoes, streams, cities, 
towns, manners and customs, products, &c., and reaching 
Kealejo, wound round to San Juan del Sur; to complete our 
circuit, we must reach Granada, whence we started upon our 
tour. 

Between the Lakes of Managua and Nicaragua, sixteen 
miles intervene, twelve of which is a broad, shallow arm of 
the former, called the Rio Tipitapa, or Estero de Panoloya, 
which is from six to twelve feet deep. The banks are low, 
and the bottom muddy to the head of navigation, about one 
and a half miles above to Paso Chico ; the bed of the river 
is supplied with streams, and rests on beds of rocks, a mix- 
ture of lava, jasper, granite, and other stones. One mile 
from Lake Managua is the Fall of Tipitapa, opposite which 
is the little village of the same name. The falls are from 
twelve to fifteen foot high. The old bed of the river is here 



RIO TIPITAPA AND THE DISTRICT OF CIIONTALES. 161 

about three hundred and fifty feet wide. From this point to 
the Lake the bed is shallow and covered with rank grass. 
A very small quantity of water falls over this natural dam 
even in the rainy season. The alligator lies in the reeds which 
line the shores, and every thing about looks desolate and for- 
bidding. The Lake here is shallow. The banks of the Tipi- 
tapa generally are low, and we pass many large cattle estates ; 
the valuable Brazil wood here is very abundant. The Kio 
Grande flowing into the Lake does not increase it much, 
which latter has a surface of about twelve hundred square 
miles, and its distance from Realejo is about forty-two miles. 

The views from the boat as you pass up are very beautiful, 
and the outlined mountains look charming ; the setting sun 
gilds with magical effect the rugged crests of Momobacho, 
and lights with subdued grandeur, far upon our left, the hazy 
outlines of the defunct volcano of Masaya. 

Opposite G-ranada rise the hills of Chontales, a district 
universally believed to be as rich in mineral wealth as any 
portion of the known world. Mahogany, India-rubber, and 
the Ebo, from which a valuable oil is extracted, are found here 
in abundance. Rose-wood, Satin-wood, Cedar, Braziletto, 
and the Nicaragua wood, one of the most costly of all dye- 
woods, as also the Ceiba, or wild Cotton-tree, are all found 
wonderfully grouped. 

Chontales is celebrated as a grazing country. The lands 
11 



162 NICARAGUA. 

are fertile, well watered, and are remarkable pasture lands. 
The climate is cool and invigorating on the hills, while on 
the plains the thermometer ranges from 64^ to ^8°. It is also 
rich in specimens of natural history. Monkeys, tigers, a 
species of lion, ant-eaters, armadillos, and sloths are frequently 
found, as also deer in abundance. The mining districts, so 
long over-looked, are being settled, and there can exist no 
doubt of the quality and quantity of its silver, gold, copper, 
and lead. The lands lying upon the streams gradually incline, 
and thousands of fine cattle are seen roaming on the hills, or 
heard lovdng in the valleys. A most profitable business 
might be pursued by those who would construct a large craft, 
and freight the cattle down to Virgin Bay, where they could 
dispose of the stock a.t highly remunerative prices. The 
land in this district is probably more like that of Honduras' 
than in any other department of Nicaragua, and it certainly 
is healthier than upon the plains of the interior. Chontales 
invites the stranger, and has abundance of hidden wealth to 
repay him for his coming. 

Standing npon the beach at Granada, the eye comprehends 
a glorious prospect. The many islands covered with verdure, 
the towering and majestic Ometepec and Momobacho, witli 
other giants of lesser magnitude, break the monotonous water- 
view. The breakers rush shoreward with great force, so much 
so, that it IS far from "being an easy task to effect a dry land- 



TEMPTING CHARACTER OF CITONTALES. 1G3 

ing. Owing to these heav}^ groiiiM-swells, the steamboats 

and sail-vessels are anchored about half a mile from shore. 

There is a constant breeze on the water's edge. Grazing 

eastward, are seen the rolling heights upon the Chontales 

shore. I often wondered at so little being known respecting 

that region, although conjectures were rife as to its numerous 

deposits of gold and silver. Many streams flow from it into 

the Lake, all of them apparently accessible for boats drawing 

two and three feet of water. There are numerous- cattle 

estates, but beyond these, little of a reliable nature can be 

gathered as to its innate wealth of. soil or minerals. The 

water is cooler, fresher, and decidedly purer than at any 

other point, except in the single instance of that obtained 

from the Rio Frio. 

Why those glorious valleys and rich savannahs should not 
tempt the hardy and thrifty Anglo-Saxon, I cannot imagine. 
A living is certain, for the banana and plantain are indige- 
nous, as also the nutritious and sweet orange. A comfortable 
cane hut can be soon erected, vegetation is ever-blooming, 
and the changes of temperature are neither sudden or great. 
A patch containing two acres, planted with plantains alone, 
would sustain a settler, and his labor would be rewarded in 
the vegetables he would easily and speedily raise. The 
markets of the country are but sparely supplied. The cauli- 
flower, cabbage, melons, lettuce, beats, turnips, radishes^ 



164 NICARAGUA. 

salsify, peas, lima beans, sweet potatoes, cucumbers, and 
various other classes, grown in our southern climate, would 
flourish upon the plains of Leon, and in the neighhorhoods 
of Managua, Masaya, Granada, and Rivas. 

Nine-tenths of the settlers in new countries neglect certain- 
ties, and avariciously seek the mines for the gold, which is 
obtained only by toil and great privations. Every useful 
pursuit is neglected, and even comfort, too, in the search for 
hidden treasures, which, when found, often prove disadvan- 
tageous to the mass, by increasing the idleness of the finders. 
Yery few, whether owners or operators, are wealthy, few even 
comfortable. Those curving shores before us especially in- 
vite the agriculturist. In almost every city there are numbers 
of foreigners, and the vegetables and melons not only would 
find a profitable market among these, but the natives would 
also purchase. 

The mineral districts of Spain, and of North, South, and 
Central America, are the poorest. Where one man becomes 
opulent, fifty are rendered the more wretched. The miners are 
paid well, consequently they spend the more carelessly ; the vice 
of gambling succeeds, and is established as a pastime. For 
example, Capon, in Brazil, is celebrated for its topaz mines, 
Yilla Kica, the rich village, the capital of the province of 
Minas Geraes, is reputed the richest in the country, and the 
Cerro of San Antonio, is a place famed for diamonds ; the 



AGRICULTURAL WEALTH OF THE COUNTRY. 165 

country surrounding each of these is fertile, producing the 
finest woods for cabinet-ware, fruits and vanilla, and pos- 
sessing plantations of cotton, equal in color and quality to 
any in the world, yet their inhabitants are degraded. Little 
can be expected from those who have been reared from 
infancy to consider labor as degrading ; but he who will settle 
in Nicaragua, willing " to take the chances," may rest assured 
he holds trumps in the plow, the hoe, and a civil tongue. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

GREYTOWN — TOPOGRAPHY — EXTENT OF MOSQUITO TERRITORY — INDIAN TRIBES 

— pope's bull — Spain's claim and England's, also NicARAGtrA's — whose 

IS VALID ? — CORONATION OF A MOSQUITO KING — HIS DRESS — THE DRESS 
OP HIS CHIEFS — ENGLISH OFFICERS — THE KING'S DIGNIFIED MANNER OF EX- 
PUESSING HIMSELF — BAPTISM — SUPPER AND FINALE TO THE FARCE — GRA.NT 
TO THE SHEPHERDS — THEIR TITLE — CONVEYANCE TO THE CENTRAL AMERICAN 
COMPANY — ISSUING OF STOCK — OBJECTS OF THE COMPANY. 

Leaving the interior, let us descend the PJo San Jnan to 
Greytown, or San Juan del Norte, where we may glean from 
floating chronicles and ''old inhabitants" something of interest 
relative to that portion of country known as the Mosquito 
territory or kingdom. It commences at Cape Honduras, the 
extreme northwestern part of the territory, and extends thence 
southwardly to the said coast, including Boca del Toro and Chi- 
riqui Lagoon, to King Buppan Rock, adjoining New Granada, 
thence southwestwardly to the ridge of mountains divicljng the 
two oceans up to the old Spanish lines, and thence northwest- 
(166) 



CONFLICTING CLAIMS TO THE COUNTRY. 161 

wardly, passing eastward of Tayagalpa and Matagalpa, and 
thence north to Cape Honduras, containing about seven 
thousand one hundred square miles. From the earliest au- 
thentic period subsequent to the discovery of America, it was 
inhabited by different tribes of Indians, the most warlike and 
numerous of which were the Mosquito and Yalientes. They 
neglected the tillage of the soil, had made little or no progress 
in the arts of civilized life, and had no fixed habitations, but 
were a wandering race without a home, subject to the prompt- 
ings of fancy or necessity. 

The followers of Cortes, or Pizarro, who had over-run Mexico 
and Peru, from the jeweled palaces of the Incas or Aztecs did not 
seek these barren heaths or rocky recesses ; and thus with nought 
to attract the avaricious Spaniard, it is averred the Mosquitos 
maintained their primal independence. Upon the King of 
Spain, by virtue of a bull issued by the Pope, the right to this 
territory, as well as to the major portion of the American Con- 
tinent, was conferred, as also to his descendants, but as to its 
occupation, according to the principles of the Law of Nations, 
there w^as nothing recognizable. Per virtue of the bull re- 
ferred to, Spain claimed this territory, and said title was 
recognized by Great Britain in the Treaty of Paris negotiated 
in 1783; and yet G-reat Britain practically repudiated this 
claim both before and since. For nearly two Imndred years, 
even to the present hour, she has maintained the right of the 



168 NICARAGUA. 

Mosquito king to this domain ; and in 1848, wlien Nicaragua 
invaded his rights, Great Britain sent a force to expel the 
latter from the country. 

But the question of the entire freedom of this coast should 
be calmly inquired into ; for under subsequent acts of King 
Robert, American interests became involved here. By a 
decree issued in July, 1824, this country was also claimed by 
the Colombian Government, and all foreigners were forbidden 
to colonize without the permission of this Republic. By a 
convention made between Great Britain and Spain in 1186, 
'tis true, His Britannic Majesty agreed to evacuate all this 
coast ; but as the Indians showed the same inveterate dislike 
to the Spaniards as formerly, they, (the natives), were per- 
mitted to consider themselves under the protection of Great 
Britain. Here, then, is a power delegated by Spain to Great 
Britain, for the guardianship of this people and their homes by 
the party who claimed this territory, at that time, to the utter 
exclusion of all other nations. Subsequently, Spain desired to 
repudiate this jurisdiction, vested by her in Great Britain, which, 
however, the latter refused to sanction. 

Some of the Mosquito kings were educated in Jamaica. A 
prior king, on his accession to the throne, January 18th, 1816, 
desired to be crowned at Belize, Honduras, and orders were 
received by His Britannic Majesty's superintendent to gratify 
his wish, and to defray the attendant necessary expenses. It 



CORONATION OP A MOSQUITO KING. 169 

may be interesting to give the particulars of this regal cere- 
mony. Cards of invitation were sent to the different merchants 
of Belize on the previous evening, requesting their attendance 
at the Court House early in the morning. The king made his 
appearance in the uniform of a British major, while his chiefs, 
in sailor's trowsers, were ranged round the room. The order 
of the day being given, the assemblage moved toward the 
church. His Majesty King Kobert on horseback, supported 
on the right and left by two senior English officers in the set- 
tlement, the chiefs following after in double file. On the 
arrival of the cavalcade at the church designated, His Majesty 
was placed in a chair near the altar, and the English Corona- 
tion Service was read by the Chaplain of the Colony, who, on 
this occasion, performed the part of the Archbishop of Canter- 
bury. When he reached that portion of the service where it 
is written "And all the people said, Let the king live forever ! 
Long live the king ! God save the king I" the vessels in port 
according to previous signal, fired salutes, and the chiefs rising, 
cried out, " Long live King Robert !" 

After the anointing. His Majesty, admiring his finery, indi- 
cated his especial gratification at this portion of the Service, 
by thrusting his hands through his bushy hair, and applying 
his fingers in an expressive manner to his nose Prior, how- 
ever, to the chiefs swearing allegiance to their monarch, it 
was necessary that they should profess Christianity, and accord- 



170 NICARAGUA. 

ingly, they were baptized "in the name of the Father, Son, 
and Holy Ghost." They displayed the most total ignorance 
of the meaning and intent of the ceremony ; and when asked to 
give their names, they took titles of celebrated English officers, 
such as Lord Nelson, Lord Rodney, and others, and seemed 
much disappointed when told they could only be baptized by 
simple Christian names. 

After this mockery had been concluded, the entire assemblage 
adjourned to a large school-room to eat the coronation-dinner, 
where the usual healths were drank; and the poor Indians, 
king as well as subjects, intoxicated by English rum, soon 
found one common bod — the floor — truly a fit finale to a farce 
sufficiently ludicrous, could it have been divested of its blas- 
phemic character. In the month of March, 1824, George 
Frederick, the father of this king, was strangled by his wife, 
and his body thrown into the sea. 

It may be asked, if the English were so far interested as to 
instal the king, and in this coronation to deprive the chiefs of 
their birthright and their own peculiar religious notions, by 
what title did they so assume a sovereignty over them ? and 
why was it necessary for the poor Indian to renounce his reli- 
gion and embrace that of a foreign nation, with whose tenets 
and precepts he was totally unacquainted ? Was it neces- 
sary or vital to the assuming of the throne ? Did England 
then claim this territory ? or was the Mosquito Coast's sov- 



HOW ENGLAND SET FOOT HERE. Ill 

ereignty merged in that of Albion'^ by the espousal of Christi- 
anity ? Truly these are vexed questions with me ; like Truth, 
they lie at the bottom of so deep a well, that it seems unfathom- 
able, unless the result be unfavorable to Great Britain's interests. 

The Mosquito Territory, renounced by Spain, and it is also 
said subsequently, by Nicaragua, was free, entirely independent. 
She had her king, and that sovereign occupied its throne ; but 
the needs of the Indians were such, that England, by her ad- 
vances of money and supplies, acquired a foothold in the prov- 
ince, and a consequent ascendancy in the country. She found 
San Juan del Norte, favorably situated for commerce, at the 
mouth of the Rio San Juan. She saw its future prominence, 
changed its name to Greytown, and upon the same staff on 
which flew the colors of Mosquito, soon floated far above the 
Cross of Saint George. Thus England set her foot on the 
soil, and from a money-lender and provider, became dictator, 
. or, as she meekly terms it, the Protector of the kingdom. 

The King Robert Charles Frederick was crowned April 23d, 
1825. In 1839, having become indebted largely to Peter and 
Samuel Shepherd, formerly of Georgia, while under the reign 
of His Britannic Majesty, conveyed to them a large body of 
lands, beginning on the south bank of the Rio San Juan, and 
running' south and east along the sea-shore, taking in the Boca 
del Toro and Chiriqui Lagoon, and running thence up to the 
rock called King Buppan, adjoining New Granada; from 



1T2 NICARAGUA. 

thence southerly to the ridge of the mountains which divides 
the two oceans up to the Spanish lines ; thence, nearly parallel 
with the sea-coast in a northerly direction, crossing the Saa 
Juan, and running thence to where the Bluefields' Main River 
intersects the Spanish lines; thence, back by the northern 
banks of Bluefields' River to Great River ; thence by the 
said river to the sea, and thence by the coast southerly to the 
mouth of San Juan. It included all islands, and especially 
Little Cow Island and the Island of Escuda de Yaragua : 
containing in all upward of 22,500,000 acres. 

This grant, made on the 24th of January, 1839, was sol- 
emnly confirmed on the following 28th of November; and as 
set forth in the deeds of conveyance, was made by the king 
in the presence of, and by the advice and consent of his chiefs 
and head men ; and not only contained a cession of the lands 
therein described to the grantees, their heirs and assigns for- 
ever, but likewise stipulated for their enjoyment and posses- 
sion free from taxation. It also conferred upon the grantees 
the right of colonization, and provided for the exemption of 
the colonists from the burdens usually incident to citizens or 
subjects. The grantees were put in possession of these ceded 
lands, as fully as it was possible for them to be of so vast an 
extent of territory ; nor was their title, until lately, ever ques- 
tioned by any claimant. The consideration for these lands 
was part money and part provisions, needed greatly by the 



THE CENTRAL AMERICAN COMPANY. 173 

natives, their turtle-shell harvest having been but small ; con- 
sequently, the grantees having paid a large sum of money, and 
having provided for the nation an immense supply of pro- 
visions, the consideration was not a nominal, but a fixed 
and valuable one. Subsequently, however, the English con- 
sular agent deprived the grantees, per force, of some portions 
of the land. 

By the maxims of international law, the lands belonging 
to such tribes may be appropriated by any coterminous 
civilized nation that has the power to expel the original 
occupants, and maintain possession of the |;erritory wrested 
from them. Yet no possession, it is averred, has ensued by 
any adverse claimants, and hence the Mosquito flag is held 
to be the virginal and valid symbol of the country, and still 
floats from the staffs at Grreytown, and Bluefields the summer 
residence of the sovereign. These lands subsequently were 
conveyed to eighteen gentlemen of the United States, who 
organized a company, October 16th, 1855 , called " The 
Central American Company," the stock of which was issued 
valued at twenty-five dollars per share, each share representing 
one hundred acres of land. The objects of the Company were 
the colonization of the land and development of its resources. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

bluefields — the mosquito king — the shepherd grant denied upon 
various grounds — england plays her hand — colonel kinney — his 
trials and hardships — denounced as a fillibuster — his expedition — 
wrecking op his tessel — arrival at greytown — burning of grey- 
town prior to his arrival — results and alleged cause — president 
Pierce's declaration of war — the muse of history — colonel kinnet 
elected governor — preamble and resolutions of the new govern- 
ment — constitution— officers elected— the central american company 

AT A DISCOUNT — KINNEY's RESIGNATION— HIS VISIT TO GRANADA AND EX- 
PULSION THENCE — walker's EMPTY BOAST — SALE OF THE GRANT TO THE 
MORMONS. 

Bluefields, the residence of the present Mosquito king, 
George William Clarence, is situated on a bluff surrounded 
by a country rich in vegetation, and remarkable as well for 
its scenery as for its healthiness, although, at times, his Majesty 
occupies a house in Greytown. He is young, well-formed, 
lighter in color than the majority of his tribe, is very agile 
and muscular, wears the undress cap of an English naval officer, 
(174) 



COLONEL KINNEY AND COMPANY. 175 

and is seemingly satisfied with his title and total freedom from 
wtint— his requirements being attended to by the English gov- 
ernment. Some time subsequent to the decease of his father, 
in 1841, the grant made to the Messrs. Shepherd was denied, 
in fact, revoked by the present king, acting under the instiga- 
tion of the English, based upon the following reasoning, viz. : 
that the consideration was insufficient, that the grant was 
fraudulently obtained, the Sire being intoxicated, as also his 
chiefs and head men, and that this intoxication was the result 
of a conspiracy upon the part of the grantees. The present 
monarch not having reached his majority, the kingdom con- 
vulsed with threatened alarms proceeding from Nicaragua 
proper, and the treasury exhausted, Great Britain became 
the guardian of the kingdom, as by this course alone she 
could ever hope to be returned her pecuniary advances, and 
it is under the prestige of such protection that she has main- 
tained a certain qualified, but truly inexplicable position in the 
affairs of the country. 

The Company referred to, in our last chapter, was organ- 
ized by Colonel Henry L. Kinney, a well-known gentleman 
of Pennsylvania, and based upon said grant, which subse- 
quently was purchased by him and other parties. From this 
arose an expedition, rarely, in its results, trials, and exposures, 
equalled in the annals of modern times. The expeditionists 
were to have left IS'ew York in the steamship United States, 



IT 6 NICARAGUA. 

and although for months the Company were openly advertis- 
ing their object, and desiring actual settlers, at the very 
moment of departure, the United States Government inter- 
posed, prevented the vessel from leaving the harbor, and 
denounced Colonel Kinney and party as fillibusters, and as 
such held them for trial. These suits subsequently ended 
witho^it credit to the prosecution. 

Col. Kinney had apprized the President in person of the ob- 
jects of his Company, as also of his contemplated day of depart- 
ure, and the latter having broached the idea of colonization, had 
also advised the former to lead the Central American enterprise ; 
and yet, after immense sums of money had been lavished in pre- 
paring himself and followers for the voyage, the entire expedi- 
tion was crushed for a time, and Kinney himself denounced and 
branded as a fillibuster. Subsequently, however, with a few 
comrades, he left New York in a small brig, and after being 
shipwrecked near Turk's Island, and suffering many hardships, 
reached San Juan del Norte, where his arrival was hailed with 
enthusiasm. Thus the Kinney Union, surmounting every ob- 
stacle, reached the point of destination, their avowed objects 
finding an echo in the hearts of the depressed people of the 
Mosquito Kingdom. 

The Transit Company occupied Punta Arenas, a point of 
land immediately opposite the bay, from Greytown ; prior 
to Kinney's arrival an emeute arose between it and the inhab- 



THE BOMBAllBMEISfT 0¥ PUNTA ARENAS. 177 

itants of the town, which ended in the Government of the 
United States sending the sloop-of-war, Cyane, commanded by 
Captain Hollins, to that port. The place was bombarded, 
frame dwellings and cane huts were destroyed by fire, and 
helpless women and children were driven from their humble 
homes, without shelter or food, to brave the inclemency of a 
sickly climate. Many deaths ensued consequent upon this 
exposure. The results of the conflagration visited alike, Amer- 
icans, Spaniards, French, and Germans. A debt owed by 
the little town, which could not be paid in twenty-four hours, 
was the principal cause of this overwhelming affliction, and the 
once flourishing village of San Juan was levelled to the earth. 
Now that Col. Kinney had arrived, unwonted alacrity was 
everywhere visible ; houses were erected, stores opened, hotels 
built, and without exception, the new settlers were busy in re- 
generating the fallen town, upon which the Government of the 
United States had thus wreaked its vengeance. This act of the 
Government found no favor with the country at large. It was 
considered to be a declaration of war by a President without 
the consent and advice of the Senate, which alone, it was held, 
possessed this power. Against whom was this war waged ? 
A weak tribe of Indians — a defenseless town, inhabited not by 
Mosquitians, but by foreigners, many of whom were Americans. 
When the Muse of History, in after years, pores over her pages 
stained with reckless spoliation, she will blush to meet this act 
12 



178 NICARAGUA. 

recorded on her annals. Would that she could drop a tear 
thereon, and blot it out forever. 

Upon the 6th of September, 1855, Col. Kinney was unani- 
mously chosen Civil and Military Governor of the City and 
Territory of San Juan del Norte, or Greytown ; and on the day 
following, the Convention reassembled, and the oath of office 
was duly administered. The Preamble and Resolutions set 
forth were as follows : 

Whereas, We, the people of San Juan del Norte, or Grey- 
town, and the Territory thereunto belonging, in Convention 
assembled, do recognize it as an inalienable right of all men 
living together as a community, to secure for themselves pro- 
tection of life and property, and the suitable maintenance of 
order and good conduct ; and believing and affirming such to 
be 2i fundamental principle, without the sacred observance of 
which no community can exist and prosper ; 

And, ivkereas no recognized authorities, civil or military, 
for the purposes above-named, do now exist in this place, to 
the great detriment and drawback of its manifold interests ; 

And whereas, from the urgency of the case, in view of the 
numerous recent additions to our population, and the large 
numbers expected soon to arrive amongst us, it is expedient 
and indispensable that a Provisional Government should be es- 
tablished without further delay. — Therefore be it Eesolved, 

1st. That a Civil and Military Governor be chosen by the 



PREAMBLE AND RESOLUTIONS. 1*1 9 

people, to whom full powers shall be delegated for the appoint- 
ment of such subordinate officers, (except the Council herein- 
after named), and the establishment of such offices and whole- 
some laws and regulations as shall appear to him best adapted 
for, and the carrying of such laws and regulations into effect, 
the same to be done with the advice and consent of the Council. 

2d. Resolved, That a Council, to be composed of five per- 
sons, be chosen by the people, whose duty it shall be to consult 
with and advise the Governor upon all matters connected with 
the public interest, and the consent of a majority of whom shall 
be necessary to the appointment of any officer, and the enact*- 
ment of any law or regulation. 

3d. Resolved, That the deliberative meetings of the 
Governor and Council shall be open to the public, unless in 
the opinion of the Governor the public good should otherwise 
demand. 

4th. Resolved, That the Council be empowered by the 
people to draft a Constitution, which, after receiving the sanc- 
tion of the Governor, shall be submitted to them for their 
adoption by ballot. 

5th. Resolved, That the Provisional Government now estab- 
lished shall continue in power until such time as it may seem 
fit and expedient to the people to meet, and elect a permanent 
one under the new Constitution. 

6th. Resolved, That no Taxes shall be levied on the citizens 



180 NICARAGUA. 

of San Juan or Greytown and its Territory, without the con- 
sent of a majority of the citizens, being owners of Real Estate 
or personal property to the amount of two hundred and fifty 
dollars, excepting such inhabitants as have been residents six 
months and upward. 

Tth. Besolved, That all foreign vessels (excepting Mail 
Steamers), entering the harbor, shall pay the same port 
charges as formerly levied in this port, from and after the first 
day of October next. 

8th. Resolved, That the former printed Constitution of 
Greytown, or San Juan del Norte, shall be adopted as a basis 
to govern the action of the Government. 

9th. Besolved, That nothing in the foregoing articles shall 
be construed as depriving the people of their rights to assemble 
together and discuss matters relative to the public good, and 
to instruct the Governor and Council upon any subject affect- 
ing the same. 

We observe a freedom to be admired in the spirit of these 
Resolutions ; the Provisional Government subscribed to the 
former Constitution, which was modeled after that of the 
"United States, with few exceptions of trifling character. The 
Inaugural Proclamation of Governor Kinney is high-toned, 
succinct, and views the bombardment, the poverty following 
said piratical action, and difficulties with the Transit Company, 
properly and ably. Schools and churches were erected and 
opened. Physicians, attorneys, merchants, land agents, and 



OFFICERS UNDER KINNEY'S ADiMINISTRATION. 181 

others flocked to support the new administration, and Governor 
Kinney's assumption of power was brilliant, though unfor- 
tunately brief. A printing-press was properly located, and a 
paper called " The Central American" was published, the first 
number of which was issued September 15th, 1855. Editors, 

W. H. Young and F. Lewellyn. The oflBcers of the Govern- 
ment were — 

Henry L. Kinney, Civil and Military Governor; W. S. 
Thayer, Secretary of the Government ; J. R,. Swift, Captain of 
the Port and Collector; S. T. Haly, Chief Judicial Magis- 
trate ; W. H. Young, Attorney- General ; F. Salter, Post 
Master and Recorder of Deeds ; S. H. Shock, Provost-Mar- 
shal ; Thomas S. Codd, Deputy Provost-Marshal ; John 
Jackson, Surveyor ; B. Wark, Constable ; Thomas Cody, 
A. M. C. Wood, Benjamin Mooney, Walter Sutherland, and 
Samuel Shepherd, Jr., Members of the Council, of which the 
first-named was President. 

The English Government refused to acknowledge the new 
party in power, but consented, provided a re-election be had, 
which should give no offense. Gov. Kinney resigned, and 
other matters pressing upon the tapis, obscured the position 
of affairs upon this coast for the subsequent period. Illy pro- 
vided with the means of sustenance, betrayed by the Associa- 
tion with whom he had covenanted, Col. Kinney in vain looked 
for the reinforcements and provisions which were to have been 
forwarded by the organization in New York and Philadelphia. 



182 NICARAGUA. 

Sick, poor, a stranger in a strange land, having spent his 
means in the establishment of his Colony, one by one hopes 
fled, and his men went to the interior to join another cause, 
whose course was marked by blood-stained battle-fields, and 
the silent hearths of deserted and spoliated homes. 

Had Col. Kinney desired to lead any revolutionary organi- 
zation, his opportunities for so doing have certainly not been 
isolated. Overtures were made him by the Nicaraguans 
through their then Provisional Chief, Don Patricia Rivas, 
by whom he was urged to visit the City of Granada. Had 
he desired to grasp the reins of Grovernment, ere Gen. Walker 
had been tempted to do so, Kinney would have occupied the 
position of Commander-in-chief, by the unanimous consent of 
the nation. Costa Rica also sent deputies to confer with 
him, entreating him and his followers to settle in its province, 
but he was wedded to his tract on the Mosquito coast. He 
had sought it for a particular and distinct purpose, and the 
improvements everywhere visible were endorsements of his 
high integrity. 

His subsequent visit to Granada, and his expulsion thence 
at Gen. Walker's instance, reflects but little credit upon the 
latter, whose boast to hang Col. Kinney proved an empty 
one. Col. Kinney, after enduring many hardships, it is 
r»in\ored, has sold his Grant to the Mormons for two million 
dollars, receiving an instalment of one tenth of the purchase- 
raunev. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

INHABITANTS OF THE MOSQUITO COAST — THEIR WEALTH — CLIMATE — INTRODUC- 
TION OF RELIGION — THEIR OWN BELIEF — BURIAL OF THEIR DEAD — PRODUCTS 
OP THE COAST — TURTLE — BIRDS — FISH — ANIMALS — VINES — TREES AND 

WOODS — RIVERS — EXPLORATION OP INDIAN RIVER BY THE GOLDEN CLUB 

A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY — MAGNIFICENT FORESTS — BLACK RIVER — GOLD 

INDIAN RIVER AGAIN — SHEPHERD'S RANCHE — GRAND FALLS — PROSPECTING 
FOR GOLD — SUCCESS — DROVES OF WILD HOGS — NO COUNTRY FOR SNAKES — 

CAPTAIN Wilkinson's pa^ty — prospecting again — rich results. 

The natives of the Mosquito shore, like savages of 
other countries, are distinguished for their apathy ; fruits 
furnish them with sustenance, chief among which, are the 
banana and plantain, and these are extremely nourishing. The 
wild boar, deer, birds, and the fish, all of which are abundant, 
supply their few necessities. Their wealth consists in a canoe 
and its accessories; and protected by mountains and morasses, 
with no accumulated wealth to tempt the pirate or the adven- 
turer, they are exposed to no incursions from without. A 

083) 



184 NICARAGUA. 

healthy climate removes the necessity of clothing, while their 
huts are easily constructed ; thus they have remained in a 
dormant state, gradually decreasing. 

The Dominican monks of Guatemala failed in the intro- 
duction of their creed ; the Baptist Missionary Society of 
England sent one of their body there, who died, however, on 
his arrival at Belize, Honduras. The king has heretofore ex- 
pressed his willingness to receive and protect any teachers who 
might be sent. Of their religious belief, scarcely aught is 
known, save that they acknowledge a Good and Bad Spirit. 
The latter is worshipped more particularly from dread of his 
anger, and as they consider the former too merciful to injure 
them, they plead this as suflOLcient palliation for their neglecting 
to adore him. They bury their dead with the paddle and 
harpoon the owner used when alive, supposing that the deceased 
will need them in the other world to provide for his sustenance. 

The many valuable products of this coast render its explora- 
tion and development necessary. The Indians collect immense 
quantities of turtle-shell, up the Coast, the Hawksbill species 
being the most valuable, and from whence, if properly and atten- 
tively pursued, this article alone would prove highly remunerative 
as an export. Turtles are abundant, and the expense is merely 
nominal for the obtaining of the shell. To those who may not 
be informed on the subject, we may add, that the female turtle 
lays her eggs on the sea-shore, which she scoops out with her 



THE FISn AND BIRDS OF THIS COAST. 185 

fin-like feet. She theu scrapes back the sand over the eggs, 
and the surface is made smooth as before. They are soon 
hatched by the genial warmth of the sun, and the little turtles 
crawling forth from the sand, find their way to the moaning 
sea with wonderful rapidity. They are of two species — one, 
called by Linnaeus, Testudo coriacea, is an inhabitant of the 
sea ; the other, Testudo lutaria, is found in fresh water, partic- 
ularly in the lakes and rivers. 

Then we find the Thula, a species of heron, WQArdea thula, 
a name derived from the Chilian — it is entirely white, and its 
head is adorned with a crest of the same color. Then, too, 
the gray and red partridge, very large, though about marshy 
places is found a smaller species. The chicken is said to 
be domestic ; it is smaller than in North America ; this 
may be true, since the hog and dog seem to be animals met 
with everywhere, especially in the Islands of the Pacific. 
Then, too, the wild duck, of two or three classes, as also a 
species of water-hen, with armed wings, similar to the Brazilian 
hen, called Jacana. The wing is armed at the joint by a spur. 
It feeds upon the plains, keeps in pairs, builds its nest in the 
grass, and is jealous of its little home, which if intruded upon, 
it will defend bravely. This bird never makes any noise during 
the day, but at night, when it hears some one passing, it will 
cry. It is good game, equal to the woodcock. Then they 
have the vampire, an account of which we have given else- 



186 ' NICARAGUA. 

where, together with bats, ducks, and a variety of birds too 
numerous to be recorded in the present Tolume. 

Sea-cows, monkeys, and alligators are found in the various 
rivers, as also the shark, the sword and black-fish, and an endless 
variety of the finny species. The sea-cow, or sea-wolf, or 
whatever may be its proper name, is similar to the sea-hog, yet 
distinguished from it by very striking characteristics. In Indian 
River the sea-hog is abundant. It resembles the urigne in 
shape, hair, and manner of living, but its mouth is longer, like 
the snout of a pig. Its ears are more raised, and the fore-feet 
divided into five distinct toes covered with a membrane. This 
Phoca is from three to four feet in length. There, too, the 
porcupine is found. It does not differ from the Histrix pr ensile. 
The cattle are not very large, but the meat is firm and juicy ; 
the milk is rich, and a large quantity of mild cheese is annually 
manufactured. 

Of the climbing plants, an abundance are found. Among 
others is one similar to the copiu ; its flowers are composed of 
six petals three inches in length, of the most beautiful crimson, 
spotted within with white. This plant creeps up the tallest 
trees ; its leaves are disposed by threes, are of a beautiful green 
color, and oval in shape. The fruit is about an inch in diameter, 
cylindrical, of a dull yellow color, and contains a white, tender 
pulp, pleasant to the taste. The passion flower, the sensitive 
plant, which is very large, the caracol, the sarsaparilla, and 



CLIMBING PLANTS AND GRASSES. 18t 

many species of the French lianes are discovered. A vine 
found everywhere as you ascend the Kio San Juan, noticed 
in our first chapter as falling from tree-tops to the earth, and 
then creeping up again, weaving a mesh of imperviable net- 
work, resembles in its flowers the copiu. It climbs without 
attaching itself. It produces a leguminous purple flower. It 
can be used for making hedges, baskets, or for cable for 
bungos, much more efficient than hemp, for it is capable of 
resisting moisture for a longer time. 

The grasses are numerous, and the rushes grow to the 
height of four feet ; from a certain species I made a basket 
which held water. Tobacco is of two kinds, the cultivated 
and wild. It is strong, highly-flavored, but is badly cured. 
The medicinal plants are very numerous, as also the herbs 
used in dying, and the alimentary plants or herbs are as 
abundant as the most ardent student could desire. I have 
met also with the rosebush, which, however, I cannot believe 
to be domestic, but, as it was introduced into Peru from 
Spain, its presence, here, no doubt, is sufficient evidence of 
its Hispanian origin. The domestic animals live in the fields 
all the year round, and from feeding on aromatic plants their 
flesh acquires a peculiar and pleasant flavor. The plains, 
valleys, and mountains are covered with elegant trees, each 
season prodncing new herbage in great perfection; and from 
the uniformly genial climate of this section, there is no doubt 



188 NICARAGUA. 

that all the plants of our latitude could be cultivated there 
without difficulty. 

Prior to entering into a view of the minerals, it were well 
for us to turn to Indian River, which has been partially ex- 
plored, and as the account has not been publicly given, it 
may interest the reader. The Kio Escoridido and Great 
River are both considerable streams, and flow through a 
country of surpassing fertility. These lands so rich have the 
advantage of an outlet to the sea, through which their pro- 
ducts may be carried to market, even prior to the opening 
of roads. There are several rivers in the southern portion 
of the territory, and they all abound with many varieties of 
fine fish. Pearl River, Aula Tara, Rio Grande, Prizapalka, 
Boshwash, Rain River, Rama, Corn River, Spanish, Indian, 
Escondido, Tauro, San Juan, Rio Colorado, Juanilla, Serapa- 
qui, Estero Real, Tipitapa, Ochomogo, Gonzales, Sapoa, Nino, 
Zapatero, Rio Frio, Poco Sol, Melchora, Salvatos, Sarmosa, 
Machuca, Chorrsa, Francisco, Cruz, San Carlos, Las Miras, 
Guaspore, Tepanaguasapa, San Rafiel, Burro Negro, Mayales, 
Tecolostote, Malaxoge, Metape, Papaturo, and Coco : these 
are the streams found on the face of Nicaragua, embracing 
the Mosquito Coast. 

Little or nothing, or literally nothing reliable, can be col- 
lected relative to the expeditions formed prior to 1855, for the 
exploration of Indian River, although in this same year 



EXPLORATIONS OF THE GOLDEN CLUB. 189 

several companies ascended probably twenty or twenty-five 
miles, meeting only with hardships, being illy eqnipped, and 
provided scantily with provisions. The report of the miners 
bearing the name of " The Golden Club," we shall insert. 
This Company was composed of six gentlemen, commanded 
by Captain S. H. Shock, of Philadelphia. ''The first day's 
journey from Greytown was not characterized by any event 
diflfering from a plain travel over a known region of fertile 
land and rank vegetation. Twelve miles from the mouth 
of Indian River, however, the aspect of this country changes 
entirely, becoming extremely beautiful, which for variety of 
landscape equals any known portion of the Isthmus. Numer- 
ous plantations, old and new, are seen on and near the banks 
of the river; some of which," says the historian of the Com- 
pany, for I have his report before me, " seemed as if the owner 
cared little in reaping to reimburse his labor, so heavily were 
the trees laden with fruit, showing the more to advantage in 
the want of the undergrowth, so ruinous where there is no 
attention given. Some localities, selected by members of our 
own band, may be seen as the path gradually winds into the 
forest, lined with lofty cedars, oaks, mahogany, and all other 
descriptions of timber to be found in tropical regions. 

"Upon proceeding about thirty miles up the stream, we 
found our instructions required us to change our course to 
the left, up Black Kiver, leading us further into the interior, 



190 NICARAGUA. 

where, to all appearance, mortal foot had never before 
trodden, but to our surprise, the country was still the same 
in variety of landscape and apparent fertility of soil. The- 
river is narrow, and its banks high and sloping, across 
which, in many places, heavy pieces of timber had fallen, ob- 
structing our progress much. We concluded, after a halt, 
that the party should here separate, a part to proceed as far 
up as practicable, the others, to remain. Those who ascended 
the river forced their way, twelve miles, through dense foliage 
and over high, rugged banks, making a distance of fifty-seven 
miles from the mouth of the river. Here they found high 
falls, and after a short prospecting, obtained some gold. This 
was in the midst of the rainy season, and they were unable to 
perfect their examination, as well on account of the high 
stage of water, as their short stock of provisions and insuffi- 
cient implements of labor. We joined the waiting party, and 
began to descend to Indian Kiver, following its course, whence 
we turned to the left, which was the proper route, and the 
one pursued by Captain Wilkinson's party, which had preceded 
us a few days. 

" On entering the right trail, we found at our several camp- 
ing places, for some distance, a scarcity of game, and at 
intervals deserted Indian ranchos. Shepherd's ranche, on 
the river, was the best camping spot we had, and near this 
we discovered several deserted plantations. The scenery 



INDIAN RIVER AND GRAND FALLS. 191 

became broader and more beautiful, as we proceeded, the 
timber finer and more lofty, and we observed a total absence 
of undergrowth, enabling us to view to greater advantage 
the mountain scenery, valleys, and glens, so sweet to all lovers 
of Nature. On leaving this ranche, the journey becomes 
picturesque in the extreme, there being a continuation of 
rapids until our arrival at the Grand Falls. Here pilots be- 
came essential. This is one of the most particular points to 
be observed by parties who may feel inclined to visit the 
mines in this district, the difficulty of the passage over the 
rapids rendering great care necessary, as the least want of 
skill on the part of the pilot might endanger life. The canoes 
should be unloaded at the foot of the Falls. 

" Moving onward, the scenery becomes grander, and from day 
to day the cataracts and falls, with the picturesque landscape 
around, present to the eye something to be admired beyond 
description. The total absence of musquitoes, the freshness of 
the water, which in coolness almost equals ice, suggests 
healthiness and comfort-; our journey, although slow and 
difficult, has been a pleasant one. We observed the camp of 
Captain Wilkinson's party ahead, and soon shook hands with 
undisguised pleasure with our friends. The further ascent of 
the river being considered very questionable, we selected three 
of the combined party to prosecute it, having provided them 
with rations for ten days. In the interim, the remainder of the 



192 NICARAGUA. 

party prospected on a gravelly beach, between two large falls'^or 
cataracts, in the neighborhood of our encampment. We com- 
menced operations, but found the water too high for eflfecting 
a fair test of its yielding capacities, although we shovelled up 
five pans, all of which were proved, and gold was obtained. 

" The river subsided slightly, and we again tried the gravel 
bar. We dug a hole four feet wide, twelve long, and six deep ; 
this brought us to the rock, where we found each pan to yield 
ten cents value in gold. That found on the sands was simply 
drift. The river commencing again to rise prevented us from 
reaching a spot where not a doubt could exist of our being 
amply repaid for our exertions. 

" We expected to receive from the party who had left us, very 
favorable reports, which would induce us to abandon the idea 
of digging ; until they arrived, the water being now too high 
for prospecting, we turned our attention to exploring the 
valleys, hills, nooks, and dells in our neighborhood, in all of 
which we found cedar timber in abundance, the trees ranging 
from fifty to seventy feet in height, without a single knot or 
limb intervening, plenty of dye-woods, and beautiful table- 
land, though the continuance of heavy rain prevented our 
making as full an inspection as we could have wished. We 
did not find, in any case, gold in any of these Yalles. We met 
with an Indian trail of recent date. Indian River affords a 
plentiful supply of fish of the finest quality. The stone-bass 



CONCLUSION OF THE GOLDEN CLUB EXPLORATIONS. 193 

in this vicinity has the preference. I may mention the almost 
entire absence of snakes in this region also, which may be 
attributed to the large herds of wild hogs roaming about — 
as many as three hundred being frequently found in a drove — 
the Mountain Cow, Curacoas and Deer, are also to be found 
in great quantities. 

^'Upon our return to camp, we were surprised to find our 
friends already there. They reported, that after five days travel 
through forests of cedar, they arrived near the bed rock of the 
river. Here they found formations of slate and granite, and 
on scooping up a handful of sand from this, it yielded twenty 
cents of gold to the pan. From their inability to take with 
them a supply of shovels, long-toms, or other utensils, with the 
danger of too frequent exposure at this season, they were com- 
pelled to relinquish further developments, and rest satisfied 
with the result already attained. We had journeyed one hun- 
dred and twenty-five miles to where our prospects were fully, 
realized, and deciding to return in December, during the more 
propitious season, we promised ourselves, with all confidence, 
a full field for our labor. '* 
13 



CHAPTER XX. 

WAR IN THE INTERIOR — UNITED STATES MARSHAL IN A FIX — ARRIVAL OP 
GEN. WALKER — BATTLE OF VIRGIN BAY — DEFEAT OP GUARDIOLA — SUBSE- 
QUENT BATTLES — "walker's TRIUMPHANT ENTRY INTO GRANADA — TREASON 
AND ITS PUNISHMENT — SCHLESSINGER SURPRISED AT GUANACASTE — CHARGED 
■WITH TREACHERY — HIS TRIAL, CONDEMNATION, FLIGHT,' AND SENTENCE OP 
DEATH — BATTLE OF RIVAS — WALKER AGAIN VICTORIOUS — INAUGURATION OP 

CHAMORRO — A NINE MONTHS' SIEGE — HIS DEATH — ESTRADA HIS SUCCESSOR 

PADRE vigil's LETTER TO MR. MARCY — MY OPINION — HENNINGSEN's GLORIOUS 
DEFENSE OF GRANADA — ATTACK ON SAN JORGE — GALLANT CONDUCT OP CAPT. 
HIGBY — SAN JORGE AGAIN — THE CANNONADE — SHARP OPERATION OF THE 
COSTA RICANS — CAPTURE OP CASTILLO — ENGLISH AND AMERICAN OFFICERS — 
WHAT WALKER HAD TO CONTEND WITH — EVACUATION OF THE COUNTRY- 
OFFICIAL REPORT OF walker's FORCE — THE RESULTS OF THE INVASION. 

"We must now turn to the interior, for since Col. Kinney 
and his lands have been receiving our attention, the revolution 
in Nicaragua proper has grown desperate and stirring. The 
Liberals invited foreigners to aid them in destroying the power 
of the Servile faction, and on the 4th of May, 1855, Gen. 
(194) 



walker's victory at virgin bay. 195 

Walker, with fifty-eiglit men, arrived at San Juan del Sur. 
The United States Marshal had interposed to prevent his 
vessel from sailing, when Walker finding that further delay 
would only be adding fuel to the flame, invited him into the 
cabin, feted him with wines, and during the tete-a-tete, the 
anchor was weighed, and the government officer awoke to the 
consciousness of being on his way to an unknown port. How- 
ever, with a delicacy peculiar to the moment, the General 
advised the officer of his position, and after a few friendly ex- 
changes, sent him back to San Francisco, while the vessel 
sought the coyal palm-groves of Nicaragua. 

The Serviles learning of his arrival, immediately marched 
from Rivas, and attacked him with four hundred men. In vain 
the advancing columns of the enemy strove to break the serried 
and firm front of this invading, friendly force ; in vain, Guar- 
diola cheered his men to the attack ; in vain, the loud shriek 
of the swarthy islander or the deep cry of the mountaineer ; 
the deadly rifle, handled by willing hands and ^ble men, swept 
death and devastation through the enemy. Walker's loss was 
one white man and four natives, w^hile Guardiola lost fifty of 
rank and file. The enemy charged again, but Walker, at th=e 
head of his small battalion of reserve, rushed to the rescue, and 
swept the blue and white flag of Nicaragua from the field. 
The foe were routed, and the moon rose upon a battle-field far 
bloodier than those fought between the Serviles and Liberals 



196 NICARAGUA. 

heretofore, while she lighted to the distant shelter a brolien 
and dispirited band of harassed and wounded soldiers. Thus 
was fought the first regular battle, and from that field the 
banner of Liberty arose rebaptized and regenerated. 

Shortly after the battle of Yirgin Bay, Gen. Walker returned 
to San Juan del Sur. The Government, of which Don Jose 
Maria Estrada was the President, demanded the arms and am- 
munition in the possession of the Transit Company. These 
consisted of four cannon, forty-eight muskets, and a large sup- 
ply of cartridges shipped from New York by this Company, 
and landed at the Castillo Rapids, for the use of the forty-eight 
soldiers, or, as they were termed, "Invincibles," who had been 
sent out to counteract an influence which was preponderating 
against them. The arms and ammunition were on board the 
steamer Yirgin, at that time lying off Granada. 

Battle succeeded battle — step by step the strangers advanced 
into the country. From a small detachment of eighty, the 
ranks were soon swollen to hundreds. The Liberals flocked 
round their new chief, upon whose banner victory sat — 
the Influence of Walker was at once felt. He summarily 
punished defections in his ranks, whether among the American 
or native troops, till every man felt there was nothing left but to 
obey and execute. The city of Granada, which had so long 
withstood the Liberal party, yielded to the new-comers, and 
the entrance of Walker, October 13th, 1855, was hailed with 



GEN. CORRAL ACCUSED OF TREASON. 197 

enthusiasm. The church bells welcomed him, and everywhere 
banners and handkerchiefs waved in his honor. The Serviles, 
now grown desperate, called upon the adjoining States for 
assistance, but the knell of Monarchism had been sounded, 
and the former friends of this once powerful party heeded not 
the invitation. 

A truce ensued, however, between the rival forces. Gen- 
Corral, the most prominent officer of the so-styled legitimate 
Government, and chief of the hostile forces, had, prior to this, 
ratified Walker's triumph in the church, and had sworn friend- 
ship to the new Government, of which Don Patricio Rivas 
was, by virtue of said treaty chosen President, or Provisional 
Chief. He now dispatched a letter to General Guardiola, who 
had flown from Granada, representing that affairs under the 
management of Gen. Walker were not being properly con- 
ducted. He also appointed a certain time for Guardiola to 
invest the city with his entire force, when Walker, unprepared, 
might be taken by surprise, and his men put to the sword. 
This letter having been intercepted, and delivered to Gen. 
Walker, a civil and military tribunal was formed, and Gen. 
Corral was brought to trial on a charge of treason against 
the then existing Government. 

It has been stated, that after his trial he confessed having 
written the letter. He was found guilty and condemned to 
death. He was brave and intelligent, a man of warm attach- 



198 NICARAGUA. 

ments and generous disposition. The Minister from Mca- 
ragua, Padre Yigil, besought his pardon with all that eloquence 
which distinguishes that truly good and merciful-hearted man, 
but his doom was sealed. He was shot on the plaza, and 
died universally regretted, leaving three sisters, whom he had 
revered and loved, in indigent circumstances to mourn his un- 
timely loss. The entire country was shocked upon learning 
of' his condemnation and death, and even the friends and sup- 
porters of the Cause felt that the stroke had been too hasty 
and severe, and for a time it is said even "Walker himself shared 
the same opinions. But to succeed, treachery must be sum- 
marily punished. This decisive blow was succeeded by bat- 
tles, and the incoming of recruits soon erased the gloom of 
the late execution. 

Costa Rica, in the interim, declared war against Nicaragua, 
and ere the news had fairly been flung to the breeze, Walker 
had a detachment on the march to the former State to meet 
the foe on their own soil. Col. Schlessinger commanded this 
arm of the force, and after marching to Guanacaste, allowed 
himself to be surprised while in fortification, and many of 
his men were butchered. Three thousand Costa Kicans, fresh 
in the field, swept after the broken ranks of the invaders, and 
straggling over hills and mountains, through morasses and 
Bwamps, the shattered remnant of Schlessinger 's command, in 
a state of utter exhaustion, finally reached their Commander- 



WALKER MAIICIIES UPON KIVAS, 1^9 

in-Chief in Granada, to accuse Sclilessingcr of treachery, neg- 
ligence, and general imbecility. 

Subsequently, the leader of this unfortunate expedition 
found his way to headquarters, but his soldiers had already 
been heard, and charges were preferred. A tribunal was 
Bummoned, and Schlessinger, who had the patrol on honor 
of the city, escaped while his trial was pending. Sentence 
of death was pronounced upon the traitor if found on the 
territory of Nicaragua, and his infamy was published to the 
world. 

The army of Walker heard of the advance of the enemy 
with impatience, and at the head of about eight hundred men, 
well armed, but illy ammunitioned, the Commander-in-Chief 
marched upon the city of Rivas, where the Costa Kicans, 
three thousand strong, were posted. The latter, commanded 
by foreign officers, well-armed with Minnie rifles, and flushed 
with their late victory, expected an easy prey. Street by 
street was fought through, barricades were overthrown, houses 
fired and sacked, carnage reigned supreme, and the best and 
bravest of Walker's army fell dead on that eventful day. Still, 
the threat of Costa Rica to shoot every man found with arms 
upon his person nerved even the most timid. To retreat was 
certain death, to be conquered instant execution ; and between 
the two there seemed nothing left but to battle on against 
tremendous odds. 



200 NICARAGUA. 

The foreign ofiBcers of the Costa Ricaus displayed much 
military skill, and the troops under them executed their com- 
mands efficiently ; but the cool, undaunted American, who ad- 
vanced to the thundering cannon, while yet the smoke kissed 
its warm lip, this to the foe was beyond all conception. The 
enemy retreated, pierced with the bullets of the sharpshooters, 
till the evening drawing on, and the ammunition of the Nicara- 
guans getting low, the army amassed, and after beating the 
enemy from every tenable position, coolly retreated with colors 
waving and drums beating. Walker's loss in the engagement 
was about eighty-five, while that of the enemy was from six 
to eight hundred. 

Walker marched to Granada, leaving the Costa Kicans 
to nurse their wounded, bury their dead, and to manage a 
retreat attended with unexpected and unlooked-for disasters. 
Instead of interring their comrades, they threw their bodies 
into the various wells of the city, and from the decaying 
corses emanated sickness and cholera, which thinned, with 
fearful rapidity, their broken ranks. They reached San Juan 
del Sur, and hastily embarked, leaving behind many of their 
sick and wounded, with a total loss of at least one-third their 
original number. 

We shall now refer to the inauguration of Don Fruto 
Chamorro as Director of Nicaragua. It has been stated in 
political circles at Washington, by those high in authority, 



CHAMORRO'S PLIGHT TO GRANADA. 201 

as also, I believe, by Don Augustin Yigil, then Minister from 
Nicaragua, "that this step was the commencement of the 
storm ; that Chamorro began to show his tendency to despo- 
tism, and usurping the sacred rights of the people who had 
elected him, commenced to forge the chain of their misfor- 
tunes. Fearing, however, a number of the citizens who were 
adverse to him, he commenced criminal proceedings against 
them. The greater part of these citizens were Liberal Mem- 
bers of the Constituent Assembly, which had convened for 
April, 1854, and who possessed too much integrity to vote 
away the liberty of the Republic. Among them were Don 
Francisco Castillon and Greneral Jerez. These, with others, 
were imprisoned, and banished subsequently to Honduras. 

" General Jerez, at the head of a few men, returned, however, 
and at Chinandega organized a Provisional Government. 
They then marched to Leon, where Chamorro had his camp, 
and as soon as the forces met, the army of the latter went 
over to Jerez. Chamorro fled to Granada, and by sacrificing 
the wealthy portion of the citizens, he assembled a force of 
one thousand men, and stood a nine months' siege on the 
plaza, during which time the most beautiful portions of the 
city were destroyed. The Provisional Government was com- 
pelled to raise the siege, and invited American citizens to aid 
them. Ninety of them responded to the invitation, and be- 
came naturalized citizens of Nicaragua. 



202 NICARAGUA. 

*' Chamorro died, and Don Jose Maria Estrada was ap- 
pointed his successor ; thus, (says the Padre in his letter to 
Mr. Marcy of May 14th, 1856), did the Constituent Assembly 
trample on the very constitution and charter they had made 
but a few days before, arrogating to themselves the ordinary 
legislative power. This," further adds the Padre, "is the 
style of government which has been styled legitimate, and 
which was not and could not be so accorded to the Constitu- 
tion of that State, because Chamorro's term of office having 
expired, only the people of Nicaragua, represented by the 
Justas of the Departments, and never the Assembly, ought to 
have appointed the successor." 

After entering the city of Granada, as before stated, the 
Government of Estrada being overthrown, the Padre says: 
" The new Government invited General Corral, the chief of 
the hostile forces, to a conference ; this officer being fully 
authorized by the late Government, they agreed to appoint a 
Provisional chief, for which Don Patricio Rivas was selected, 
and General Walker, General-in-Chief of the whole military 
force of the Republic." 

The worthy Padre has offered, I fear, but sorry reasoning for 
the subsequent acts of his Government. He educes an argu- 
ment against Estrada, because the Justas of the Department 
only had the power to elect a successor, and yet he tells us, 
General Corral, a rebel chief, conferred with the enemy, and 



WAS THE RIVAS- WALKER GOVERNMENT A VALID ONE ? 203 

selected Rivas the successor of Chamorro and Estrada. Is it 
to be supposed that any such power was vested in Corral by his 
partizans, as to yield the supreme Directorship of the country, 
and would he willingly resign his position as Commander-in- 
Chief, had not force been employed ? Are we to believe that 
this assumption of power on the part of the Rivas party was 
valid ? 

Facts are stubborn, and they justify the selection of 
Rivas ; but there is no shadow of any legal election by the 
Justas, but by the prescribed Assembly, composed, subse- 
quently, at the moment of the making of this compromise, of 
friends to the new Government ! "Was this agreement between 
Corral and the enemy valid ? "Was Rivas elected by the 
Justas ? Was any election held at all ? Certainly not ! The 
enemy had evacuated Granada, and consequently they had 
no voice in it. "Would they empower their chief. Corral, to 
treat in this crisis with the enemy ? 

Is it not absurd to justify the position of the Rivas-"Walker 
Government by such arguments ? Was it not certain, that 
Corral's vote, upon any question, would be over-ruled, and that 
any advantage he might wish to claim would be denied ? And 
yet a treaty was made, and Corral, instead of returning to his 
friends, was detained in Granada, and subsequently tried, con- 
victed, condemned upon a charge of treason, and shot. How 
was this charge sustained ? Not by influential parties j they 



204 NICARAGUA. 

condemned the accusation and the verdict, and the subsequent 
Minister of Nicaragua, appointed by the Bivas-Walker Gov- 
ernment, strenuously besought his pardon, believing him to be 
innocent. 

There was no election, but an unanimous selection of Don 
Patricio Rivas, a worthy, quiet man, formerly Custom Officer 
at San Carlos, for the post ; a tool, 'tis said, in the hands of 
General Walker, and against whose interests, it will be remem- 
bered, even his son fought, fully feeling that his father was a 
titled prisoner, a second Montezuma, in the hands of his victor. 

By whom was the city shorn of her beauty ? By the enemy, 
not by the Chamorro party, whose interests would have suffered, 
and that Chamorro defended the plaza for nine months against 
the enemy, is sufficient endorsement of his valor, for had he 
been obnoxious to the citizens, he would soon have felt their 
vengeance. A rebellion had occurred — one party was beaten 
. — the victors claimed the spoils ; and they selected their officers, 
as was usual, and held from that time the country vi et 
armis. 

The headquarters of General Walker were at Granada, and 
the gallant and determined defense of the plaza, by Hen- 
ningsen, will be remembered as one of the most glorious 
achievements of modern fillibusterism. With his retreat en- 
tirely cut off, supplies diminishing, an hospital immense in 
proportion to his fighting men, yet there was no show of the 



THE ATTACK ON SAN JORGE. 205 

white flcag ; determined to fall or conquer, lie braved his foes ; 
and when relief came, small though it proved, responding to 
the hearty shouts of his fellow soldiers, he leaped from his 
island barricade to punish the too sanguine enemy. 

Keduced to the narrow and circumscribed limits of Kivas 
and environs, with a clear outlet, however, to San Juan, 
Walker refused to retreat, and vainly essayed to bring the 
enemy into a general battle. San Jorge was barricaded, but 
he resolved to attempt its capture. On the 3d of Pebruary, 
1857, he returned from San Juan del Sur with forty-three 
recruits, reaching Rivas at half-past one P. M. That night, 
with these, he forced an attack on San Jorge, — his men 
were worn out, had been illy provisioned, and his total force 
only numbered two hundred. Walker led in person. It was 
defended with cannon, and proved a very strong post ; within . 
the church and plaza was the whole Costa Kican force ; 
Walker had no artillery, for he intended to surprise the village. 
He would have succeeded, had his men supported him, for when 
they entered the streets, not a sound was heard, not a picket 
challenged — the whole place was wrapped in dangerous, almost 
fatal sleep. The courage of his worn-out men deserted them, 
and when ordered to the attack, they faltered — they refused. 
He called for forty volunteers to storm the village — only fifteen 
advanced. With these he approached the barricade. The 
whole camp slept within — not a sentry on the alert. They 



206 NICARAGUA. 

fired into the plaza, which aroused the camp, and met a 
response of musketry. The volunteers fell back — the whole 
body began to scatter, when Captain Higby of Mobile sprang 
forward into the midst of his Company, and taunting them, 
finally compelled them to amass, and marched them up to the 
plaza. In the interim the Costa Ricans had entered the square 
from the surrounding houses, and were firing from thence upon 
them. 

Higby led his men in single file, crouching low along the 
walls, so as to escape the muzzles of the enemy's guns, and as 
the Costa Kicans discharged their vollies, up rose the Walker- 
ites, and through the same port or loopholes returned the 
courtesy. This manoeuvre, however, could not stay the battle 
long, although it told disastrously upon the foe. Higby being 
unsupported, and exposed to a galling fire from all points of 
the plaza, while General Walker's party being the focus of a 
hot serenade from the cannon, compelled the latter to evacuate 
the village, after losing Col. O'Xeil, Capt. Blackburn, and a 
considerable number of the rank and file, composed of the Eirst 
and Second Rifles and the Kangers. He retired to Rivas. 

On the Yth, in the morning, at 3 A. M., he marched again 
to San Jorge, with three field-pieces and at Y A. M., at a 
distance of six hundred yards, commenced a cannonade which 
lasted for several hours, but he was disappointed in drawing the 
enemy from their retreat. General Caiias, the Costa Rican 



COLONELS TITUS AND LOCKRIDQE AT CASTILLO. 207 

commander, having an opportunity to communicate with Gen 
eral Walker some days subsequent, addressed him a note, in' 
which he stated that the cannonade had killed three beeves, 
thereby saving the butcher some trouble, and that his men had 
picked up fifty round-shot, which he should with pleasure return 
to him some time soon — poco tieinpo. 

Upon the Kio San Juan, Walker's officers had taken Sera- 
paqui, the Castillo, and other points, and held Punta Arenas 
also, but were unsupported, and finally outwitted by the Costa 
Kicans who succumbed at Castillo. The latter desired twenty- 
four hours to evacuate, but in the meantime sent messengers for 
aid to San Carlos, who returned with reserves sufficient to 
compel Cols. Titus and Lockridge to abandon all hopes of its 
capture. Had Walker's officers refused time, and forced them 
at once to surrender, the whole country would have been in his 
hands. Was this the result of an over-supply of confidence, 
or " manifest destiny" ? 

Col. Anderson had succeeded in taking Serapaqui, and was 
left with a garrison to defend it until the return of Col. Lock- 
ridge. Lockridge landed a detachment of one hundred and 
fifty men under Col. Titus, one mile below Castillo, with orders 
to march through the woods, and enter the town on the rear; 
whilst he, in person, proceeded up the river to cannonade it. 
When he (Lockridge) came in sight of the fort, he found the 
houses in flames below, and also two of the river-steanaers. 



208 NICARAGUA. 

Without delay, and under a shower of balls from the fort, he 

boarded the J. N. Scott, put out the fire, cut her adrift, and 
floated her out of range of the guns. The other boat, The 
Machuca, was entirely consumed. The Scott was riddled with 
balls, and otherwise injured. Lockridge's loss, exposed thus, 
was five privates and one officer. Titus found the ruins when 
he reached the Rapids, sent in a flag, and demanded instant 
surrender, having ascertained previously that the force 
amounted to only twenty-five men. * 

The rest I have told. On the 2d of March, Titus descended 
the river in the Rescue, with Col. Lockridge, having the 
J. ISr. Scott in tow. The English officers boarded the steamers 
ad libitum, offering protection to all who desired to leave 
Walker's service. General Walker's camp at Rivas was also 
visited by American and English naval officers, but the latter 
generally felt they had rated the General far too feebly. 

Rivas was well fortified. It was defended by stone barri- 
cades, and eleven pieces of ordnance — three six-pounders, two 
mines, two howitzers, and four mortars, the latter very small. 
The Costa Rican forces were about ten times the number of 
Walker's. Reduced to a circumscribed space, the latter felt 
his necessity for action. Not a boat on the lake, no communi- 
cation with Lockridge on the Atlantic, one hundred men 
sick and wounded, two hundred more, limping, terribly crip- 
pled, and unfit for marching, four hundred only were left 



( 



walicer's determined perseverance. 209 

together with two hundred natives to battle against this 
overwhelming odds. 

Of how many well-fought fields have these rude untutored 
troops been the victors I In a strange clime, unaccustomed to 
its water, or its changing temperature, war from the moment 
they placed their feet upon its soil, till they sought the " sick- 
bey," foes around them, about them, starvation at their elbows, 
and no reserves on the march, what prevented Despair from 
gathering his share of the laurels ? Pride ! Pride ! On their 
Leader's brow they saw a dogged resolve, a fixed determina- 
tion to outfast, outsit, or outfight the enemy. All that perse- 
verance could have accomplished, was certainly his. He 
penetrated to the Capital — he had it in his power. He 
governed the State, but his forces were insufficient. Had 
Lockridge been able to join him, and hence given him pos- 
session of the lake and river steamers, the flag of the vanquished 
would undoubtedly now float from the mast-heads at Kealejo, 
and the flag-staff of Grey town ! 

From the official report of Ph. K. Thompson, Adjutant- 
General of the Nicaraguan army, dated Kivas, Feb. 24, 
185T, we find that the original number of men enlisted were 
2,288, of which 61 were officers. The total of deaths were 
685, of which 109 were officers ; 3t resigned, 206 were dis- 
charged including one officer, 9 were dropped or stricken from 
the roll, 293 deserted, of which 9 were officers, leaving a total 

of 133 officers and men, with 141 unaccounted for. 
14 



210 NICARAGUA. 

To the number joined, as herein stated, are to be added 
about 100, who joined singly, re-enlisted, and others employed 
in the different departments of the army. Of the 141 unac- 
counted for, about 70 should be added to the killed. 

The evacuation of the country by General Walker and com- 
patriots from the port of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific, 
and the interference of Captain Davis, of t-.e Ship-of-war St. 
Mary, is patent. His general successes and discomfitures have 
been dwelt upon succinctly, but briefly, and we refrain from 
dilating upon the motives which induced either the first or 
second visit of the leader to Nicaragua, lest we may do injus- 
tice, but we shall publish an official document relating to his 
capitulation according to the Convention of Rivas. Suffice it 
for us to ask, what of good hath eventuated from all the tur- 
moil ? Many wrongs had been committed by the Government 
upon Americans, resident and transient. The Transit route has 
been brought into notice, and many who have visited the coun- 
try from other motives than commerce, can fully endorse my 
opinion of it, when I add, that it possesses a regular and good 
climate — fertile soil — the finest fruits in the world — immense 
mineral wealth, and a population, with whom, after our Cass 
and Yrisarri Treaty is fully confirmed, we can affiliate, and 
enter into commerce, with many chances of success. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

walker's contemplated second invasion op NICARAGUA — SENORS YRISARRI 
AND MOLINA — THEIR LETTER TO SECRETARY CASS — WHAT THEY THINK 
"WALKER WILL DO — WHAT THEY HOPE THE UNITED STATES WILL DO — CIR- 
CULAR OP SECRETARY CASS — CALLS ON THE OFFICIALS — EXPECTS THEM TO 
DO THEIR DUTY — WALKER SPEAKS — APOLOGISES FOR DOING SO — CLAIMS TO 
BE THE LAWFUL EXECUTIVE OP NICARAGUA — DOES NOT WANT ANY INTER- 
FERENCE PROM COSTA RICA AND GUATEMALA — DENIES VIOLATING ANY ACT OP 
CONGRESS — SENOR YRISARRI AGAIN — WANTS THE AMERICAN GOVERNMENT TO 
DO THE RIGHT THING — TALKS HARD ABOUT WALKER — SAYS THE FILLIBUSTERS 
ARE NOTHING BUT PIRATES — CANNOT DECEIVE THE CENTRAL AMERICANS, AND 
WONDERS AX THE IMPUDENCE OF THE MAN OP DESTINY. 

In relation to General Walker's second invasion of Nicar- 
agua, we insert the following official documents, which prove 
the desire of the United States to maintain her position for 
probity with the world at large. The letter from Senors 
Yrisarri and Molina to Secretary Cass, dated New York, 
September 14, 1857, apprises our Government of an intended 
invasion, and is as follows : 

(211) 



212 NICARAGUA. 

" The undersigned, Minister Plenipotentiary of the Republics 
of Guatemala and of Salvador, and the Charge d'Affaires of the 
Kepublic of Costa Rica, have the honor of bringing to the 
knowledge of his Excellency the Secretary of State, that there 
is no doubt as to the fact that there is now in course of prep- 
aration, in the southern section of the United States, an Ex- 
pedition under the orders of Walker, the adventurer ; which 
Expedition, according to the notices published in the public 
journals, will sail about the middle of this month, or the 
beginning of the next, bound for Boca del Toro, where it will 
take the armament, which, now ready in the port of New York, 
is to be transferred to that point. It is probable that the 
collecting of the members of the Expedition and of the arma- 
ment, at that point, have for their object the entrance of these 
new invaders into Nicaragua through the port of San Jnan del 
Norte, since they can have no other point from which they 
could effect such entrance. 

"The undersigned hope that the Government of the United 
States, though they may not be able to prevent the embarkation 
of this expedition, like former ones, so publicly and shamelessly 
, proclaimed, will direct that a vessel of war of the United States 
shall prevent the debarkation of these aggressors in Boca del 
Toro, and give formal orders to the United States vessel that 
may be stationed at San Juan del Sur to repel, also, the land- 
ing of the expedition along that coast, and to turn, them back 



CIRCULAR FROM THE STATE DErARTMENT. 213 

to the United States as violators of their laws, and as disturbers 
of the peace and security of friendly nations. 

" With the highest consideration, the undersigned have the 
honor of subscribing themselves the respectful and obedient 
servants of the Honorable the Secretary of State of the United 
States."— (iYo. 1, Ex. Doc. No. 24, 35^/i Gong.,\st Sess.) 

Upon the receipt of which, Mr, Cass issued the following 
circular, directed to the various Attorneys, Marshals, and Col- 
lectors of the United States. It is dated from the Department 
of State, Washington, September 18, 185T. 

" From information received at this Department, there is 
reason to believe that lawless persons are now engaged within 
the limits of the United States in setting on foot and preparing 
the means for military expeditions to be carried on against the 
territories of Mexico, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica, Republics 
with whom the United States are at peace, in direct violation 
of the sixth section of the Act of Congress approved 20th of 
April, 1818. And under the eighth section of said Act it is 
made lawful for the President, or such person as he shall em- 
power, to employ the land and naval forces of the United States, 
and the militia thereof, 'for the purpose of preventing the 
carrying on of any such expedition or enterprise from the terri- 
tories or jurisdiction of the United States.' I am therefore 
directed by the President to call your attention to the subject, 
and to urge you to use all due diligence, and to avail yourself 



214 NICARAGUA. 

of all legitimate means at your command, to enforce these and 
all other provisions of the said Act of 20th April, 1818, against 
those who may be found to be engaged in setting on foot or 
preparing military expeditions against the territories of Mexico, 
Costa Rica, and Nicaragua, so manifestly prejudicial to the 
national character, and so injurious to the national interest. 
And you are also hereby instructed promptly to communicate 
to this Department the earliest information you may receive 
relative to such expeditions." — (No. 2, Sx. Doo. No. 24, 35//i 
Gong. 1st Sess.) 

The instant reply of Walker to Mr. Cass is worthy of inser- 
tion, and is dated September 29, 185t. 

"It is correctly reported that the ministers of Costa Kica 
and Guatemala have asked for the active interposition of the 
United States for the purpose of preventing me and my com- 
panions from returning to Nicaragua. This request, it is fur- 
ther said, is based on the assumption that I have violated, or 
intend to violate, the neutrality laws of the United States. 

" The want of all official intercourse between the Government 
of the United States and that of Nicaragua will, I hope, be a 
sufficient excuse for my addressing you onthe faith of a public 
report. But the rumor comes in such a form that I am satis- 
jfied the ministers of Costa Rica and Guatemala have attempted 
to dishonor the Republic of Nicaragua in the eyes of the United 
States ; and I am further convinced of this fact by a decree of 



walker's reply to secretary CASS. 215 

President Mora, dated at San Jose, on the ttli of August last, 
and ordered to be communicated to the diplomatic corps 
generally. 

'' The ministers of Costa Rica and Guatemala attempt to 
humiliate Nicaragua by presenting themselves to the United 
States as her protectors and guardians. In behalf of the Re- 
public in which I claim to be rightful and lawful chief execu- 
tive, I protest most earnestly against this assumption on the 
part of Costa Rica and Guatemala, and ask that the Govern- 
ment of the United States will not permit itself to be influenced 
by such pretensions on the part of these two Central American 
powers. On the contrary, it is to be hoped that the United 
States will, by its conduct, assert and vindicate the inde- 
pendence of its sister Republic, the sovereign State of Nicar- 
agua. 

" It is my duty further to say, that the people of JSTicaragua 
have not consented to the military authority at present exer- 
cised over them by the agents of Costa Rica and Guatemala, 
and that they, therefore, cannot be held responsible for any in- 
terference of these latter States in the administration of the 
municipal laws of your Government. Conceiving that the 
ministers of Costa Rica and Guatemala cannot justify any sug- 
gestions they make to the United States concerning the execu- 
tion of its own Acts of Congress, I desire to relieve Nicaragua 
from any responsibility for such intermeddling suggestions. 



216 NICARAGUA. 

" So far as any violation on my part of the Acts of Congress 
is concerned, I deny the charge with scorn and indignation. 
Having been received in the United States when forced for a 
time to leave Nicaragua, I have in all respects been obedient to 
its lawa. And permit me to assure you that I shall not so far 
forget my duty as an officer of Nicaragua as to violate the laws 
of the United States while enjoying the rights of hospitality 
within its limits." 

The letter of Senor Yrisarri, asking for the intervention of 
the United States, dates October 8, 1851, a portion of which 
we here insert. 

" Nicaragua, unhappily, has been the scene of frequent and 
sudden revolutions. Her internal dissensions and strifes have 
produced her national weakness and invited the attacks of the 
corrupt and the wicked. From such an attack upon her 
sovereignty and national rights she has just been freed. But 
scarcely had the last one of these miserable fiUibusters been 
expelled from her territory, when we find the same contemptible 
leader — who only has ability enough to perpetrate crime — 
ready again to invade our shores and repeat the same outrages 
so lately enacted by him. Can the United States Government 
prevent this new invasion ? It can. But not by means of the 
neutrality laws', for these are too weak, as experience has re- 
peatedly proved, to restrain any body, much less to restrain 
the defiant and mad enterprises of fiUibusterism, that scandal 



SENOR YRISARRI ON WALKER'S CLAIMS. 21 Y 

of the age. But this Government has the power sufficient to 
prevent the projected invasion by the performance of an act 
of simple justice and comity toward a weak but friendly and 
confiding people." 

The notice of General "Walker's letter to Secretary Cass by 
Senor Yrisarri, dated November 10, 1857, embraces the position 
of Nicaragua relative to Walker's claim to its Executive, and 
as we have given one party full latitude, equity demands that 
the other should be heard. Senor Yrisarri says — 

" The undersigned. Minister Plenipotentiary of the Republics 
of Guatemala and of Salvador, has the honor of imparting to 
the Hon. Secretary of State of the United States that he has 
seen, in the public papers printed in these States, a letter 
addressed to His Excellency, and said to be written by the 
Sonora and Nicaraguan adventurer, William Walker, who has 
unduly arrogated the name of President of Nicaragua, by 
which he has never been recognized in the States of Central 
America, in any of the Spanish American Republics, in this 
Government of the United States, or in any other Government 
of the world, and who never could have been President of that 
Republic, because the Nicaraguan Constitution excludes any 
one not a native of Central America from the exercise of the 
executive power of that State. 

"Under the assumption that the letter alluded to has actually 
been addressed by said Walker to the Honorable Secretary of 



2^8 NICARAGUA. 

State of the United States, it is the duty of the undersigned to 
contradict the assertions by which the writer has endeavored 
to mislead this Government and to continue deceiving the 
people of the United States. 

'' Truly astonishing is the impudence with which this adven- 
turer, expelled from Nicaragua by her forces and those of all 
the Central Americans, attempts to constitute himself the 
Champion of Nicaragua. The man, whose course in that 
country was an exclusive one of assassination of the defenders 
of that country — the burner of whole villages, the spoiler of 
national property, the trampler on all rights, the plunderer of 
churches, the leader of the foreign stipendiaries which he 
gathered under his own banner — alone could have alleged his 
right of citizenship in Nicaragua, and thereby held as dunces 
all men else on earth. 

" This same man, without bitter insult on the common sense 
of mankind, could not have contrived a more absurd pretext 
under which to carry into effect the expedition which he has 
levied to recover a treacherously-usurped authority, than this 
claim that his expedition is not one hostile to the country, 
but a peaceful colonizing enterprise ! He himself has, time 
and again, and with characteristic impudence, published that 
his projected expedition looks to a recuperation of power in 
that country ; whilst in the very letter attributed to him, and 
addressed to the Honorable Secretary of the United States, he 



SENOR YRISARRI TO SECRETARY CASS. 219 

claims for himself the title of ' Lawful Executive Power of 
Nicaragua.' 

*' This is ample to prove that the expedition, composed of 
spurious colonists, is, in reality, one of soldiers, moving with 
the design of supporting this dream-begotten legitimate execu- 
tive power of the country. But whatever may be the charac- 
ter of this colonizer, and of those colonists under a new patent, 
they cannot set foot on the territory which they are about to 
invade, nor be there received, save as real pirates ; because, 
in Nicaragua and in Costa Rica, as well as in the other Re- 
publics of Spanish America, Walker is held in no other light 
than that of a traitor to the party which he went to serve 
in Nicaragua, of an usurper of the sovereignty of that country, 
of a blood-shedder, whose object was to destroy the defenders 
of their country ; whilst his satellites were nothing else than 
accomplices of his crimes. In proof of this, I transmit to the 
Secretary of State the decree of the 31st of August last, 
officially communicated to me by the Minister of Foreign Rela- 
tions of Nicaragua, by which it will be clearly seen that the 
expedition which Walker intends to lead into that country, 
under the appellation of colonists, will be received as an ex- 
pedition of pirates ; in view of which, communication through 
the Isthmus has been ordered to be foreclosed. 

"Neither in Nicaragua, nor in any Republic of Central 
America, is any colony desired, formed by Walker, or by any 



220 NICARAGUA. 

other adventurer, who, like him, has dreamed of mastery over 
its lands, to divide them among his foreign followers. Ex- 
perience amply teaches there, as well as here, that the thou- 
sands of individuals shipped as colonists for Nicaragua, from 
New York and New Orleans during the course of the last 
two years, went there with the exclusive aim of waging war 
against the natives of the land, under the command of an in- 
trusive usurper. And if, with miserable cunning, they can baffle 
the laws of the United States, which forbid the citizens of those 
States to disturb the peace of friendly nations, they will cer- 
tainly not deceive now, as they never have been able to de- 
ceive, the Central Americans ; and they must not complain 
of the fate that may befall them, however hard it may appear 
to them. Natural law imposes on the Central Americans the 
duty of making an example of the incorrigible violaters of the 
laws of all the nations. 

" Walker never was, nor can he ever be, President of Nica- 
ragua, or a citizen of that Republic from the time that he was 
declared to be a traitor to it ; nor can any men that may be 
led by him, or any one else in his name, fail to be received 
and treated in any other manner than that due to bandits and 
pirates, by whatever name they may be known, or from what- 
ever quarter they may come. This is a fact which grows out 
of authentic documents from the true executive power, 
national, and not foreign, of Nicaragua ; and to this should 



YRISARRI ArrLIES HARD WORDS TO FILLIBUSTERING. 221 

the citizens of the United States rivet their attention, so that 
they may not venture to follow the private banner of the ad- 
venturer of Sonora and of Nicaragua. 

"It is of world-wide notoriety that Walker was not elected 
President of Nicaragua, save by a foreign soldiery, which 
backed him in the usurpation of the supreme power which 
could not be vested ; and wonderful, I repeat it, is the impu- 
dence of the man who pretends to vindicate, as a right, that 
which bears no other character than that of the worst imagin- 
able outrage. 

" The undersigned, as Minister Plenipotentiary of Guatemala 
and of Salvador, and in his appointed capacity by the Gov- 
ernment of JSTicaragua to represent her in the United States, 
cannot but protest against the contemplated expedition of 
colonization and peace to Nicaragua under the leadership of 
"Walker ; declaring that, as it cannot be received in that Ke- 
public save as a hostile expedition, it shall be treated by the 
three States, Guatemala, Salvador, and Nicaragua, as one of 
real pirates. This the undersigned has deemed it his duty to 
bring to the knowledge of the Government of the United 
States." 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A PROMISE FULFILLED — GENERAL HENNINCSEN'S LETTER TO SECRETARY CASS 
— HIS COMMISSION FROM PRESIDENT WALKER — WHAT HE SAYS ABOUT WALK- 
ER'S ELECTION — HIS PERMANENCY AS A RULER — HIS SOLICITUDE FOR THE 
SOLDIERY — AN APPEAL TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES — THINKS 
CAPTAIN DAVIS DID NOT DO THE RIGHT THING — WHAT PRESIDENT MORA DID — 
WHAT GENERAL WALKER DID — HOW LONG THE INVADERS WERE KEPT FROM 
INVESTING RIVAS — HOW THEY ATTEMPTED AT VARIOUS TIMES TO STORM THE 
PLACE — HOW ANXIOUS THEY EVENTUALLY BECAME TO KEEP OUT — POSITION 
OF BESIEGERS AND BESIEGED ON THE FIRST OF MAY — WHAT WALKER EXPECT- 
ED TO DO, AND HOW HE WAS GOING TO DO IT — WHAT CAPTAIN DAVIS DID, 
AND THE '.WAY HE DID IT — HOW IT AFFECTED WALKER'S PLANS — THE 
SCHOONER GRANADA SEIZED AND HANDED OVER TO THE COSTA RICANS — THE 
GUATEMALA NAVY PUTS TO SEA AND MURDERS CAPTAIN LILLY. 

We promised, in Chapter Twentieth, to give the documents 
relative to the evacuation of Nicaragua. We now discharge 
that promise, by inserting extracts embracing the points at 
issue, from a letter of General Henningsen's to Mr. Cass, dated, 
Washington, November 12, 1857. 
(222) 



WHAT GENERAL IIENNINGSEN SAYS. 223 

" Ou the first of May last, in Nicaragua, I was charged by 
President "Walker with negotiating, drafting, and subsequently 
carrying into execution the Convention of Kivas. That 
negotiation was entered into, and the capitulation was made 
solely with a United States oflBcer, Captain Davis, of the Uni- 
ted States ship-of-war St. Mary, under the guaranty of the 
United States flag that certain terms would be observed by 
the besiegers. 

" General Walker was regarded as the legitimate President 
of Nicaragua, and without any possibility of influencing the 
ballot, was elected by a larger majority than any President ever 
received before, or probably will ever receive again in Nicar- 
agua, because the only classes who labor or produce had 
witnessed under his auspices the abolition of forced military 
service, and saw in his election, for the first time in their gen- 
eration, the prospect of not being coerced by ambitious faction- 
ists to fight through interminable revolutions for a cause in 
which they took no interest. When the pressure of internal 
treachery, foreign invasion, and extraneous influence, prevented 
him from protecting them from conscription, they came to 
regard this as an illusion, and resigned themselves, as they had 
done from time immemorial, to be dragged from their peaceful 
avocations, and driven to slaughter by leaders whom it was 
never my fortune to see or hear of in the front of battle. It is 
difficult for any one acquainted with facts, not to have regarded 



224 NICARAGUA. 

General Walker as the legitimate President of Nicaragua, since 
no valid election can take place as long as the Costa Rican 
foreign force occupies any part of the territory of that Repub- 
lic. It is worth observing that, besides being still de jure 
President, Greneral Walker was de facto President of Nicaragua 
far beyond the average term. In the fifteen changes of Gov- 
ernment that have taken place in this respect within six years, 
there is only Chamorro, whose term of power exceeded by one 
month, and President Pineda, by four months. General Walker's 
actual exercise of that office. 

"Now, sir," he continues, ''so great was the solicitude of 
President Walker with regard to our Nicaraguan fellow soldiers 
in Rivas, and so strong was generally the feeling of their 
American companions in arms, that I am only expressing the 
common sentiment when I emphatically declare, that if ever 
circumstances could have driven us to capitulate with the 
Central American invaders or insurgents, I would have run all 
risks of dying, sword in hand, sooner than have surrendered 
these good and true men on any guaranty less strong than the 
obligation of our opponents toward a powerful nation. 

''They naturally looked to the Americans in Rivas efficiently 
to guaranty their safety. President Walker, who entrusted 
me with the details of that negotiation, and my companions in 
arms who know that I was therewith entrusted, look to me, and 
I, sir, have the flag of the American Union to look to. My 



WHAT CAPTAIN DAVIS DID. 225 

duty toward the sufferers, and my honor as a soldier oblige me, 
therefore, respectfully to appeal for redress of this great wrong 
to the Chief Magistrate of this Republic, whom I believe it is 
proper that I should address through you." 

Again : " An attempt has been made to create the impression 
that 'the Nicaraguan army at Rivas was in an utterly desperate 
position, from which it was relieved by the intervention of 
Captain Davis, whose interference is pretended to have been 
only officious, dictated solely by motives of humanity and un- 
dertaken on his own responsibility. 

*' Now, sir, though I do not wish to impugn the motives of 
Captain Davis, and though we have never done the Cabinet at 
Washington the injustice to believe that he acted either upon 
its instructions or in conformity with its intentions, I must re- 
mark firstly, that Captain Davis, as commanding the only 
United States forces there, represented for us the United 
States ; secondly, that in as far as our position was desperate, 
it was rendered so by his own act ; and thirdly, that after the 
commission of that act, our situation was not desperate enough 
for us to have trusted our wounded, or our native companions 
in arms to the mercy of our opponents without a better guar- 
anty than the word they had so often violated. 

"We could not have done so, remembering that in the 
Spring of 1856, President Mora had preached a crusade of 
which the avowed object was the eztermination of all North 
15 



226 NICARAGUA. 

Americans who took any part in the affairs of a (to him) 
foreign country ; that in March of that year he shot all the 
stragglers and wounded who fell into his hands after the dis- 
aster of Santa Rosa ; that in the following April he put to 
death peaceable American citizens in Yirgin Bay j and that, 
being attacked in Rivas, Nicaragua, which he was invading, 
by President Walker, he (President Mora) fled back to Costa 
Rica with his brother. General Mora, leaving General Canas 
to bring back his shattered forces ; that General Canas was 
obliged to abandon his sick and wounded Costa Ricans to 
General Walker's mercy, who had them tended with the same 
care as his own. We could not have done so, remembering 
that after this, in the following October, peaceful citizens were 
massacred at Granada, amongst others a minister of the Gos- 
pel, the Rev. Mr. Wheeler, and Mr. Lawless, a merchant long 
resident in the country, the neutrality of both of whom was 
beyond cavil or dispute. 

"As to the condition of the Nicaraguan army under Presi- 
dent Walker, in Rivas, the attempt to besiege that city began 
on the 2tth of January, 185Y, he being at that time cut off 
from all communication with the Atlantic States by the un- 
lawful seizure of the transit steamers. By repeated and 
vigorous attacks — once at Obraje, four times at San Jorge, on 
the 29th of January, 3d and 11th of February, and the 16th 
of March, by sweeping the transit road, and by various skir- 



WALKER BESIEGED AT RIVAS. 22t 

misbes, the invaders and insurgents were for seven weeks pre- 
vented from investing Rivas. 

" For the remaining six weeks, up to the 1st of May, Rivas 
was more or less closely invested by means of four strongly 
entrenched camps with connecting lines. During the whole of 
this siege, and indeed for nearly five months preceding the 1st 
of May, ISST, we had received only one hundred and thirty- 
five men reinforcement. The besiegers, who reached Obraje, 
according to their own report, with two thousand one hundred 
and sixty men, had been during this time reinforced by five 
thousand men, making the total force brought against us over 
seven thousand men. After the investment two attempts were 
made to carry the place by surprise and storm, viz. : on the 
the 23d of March and 11th of April. On the 23d the be- 
siegers took possession of all the houses outside of our works, 
but by two o'clock P. M. were driven out of them back to 
their lines with great loss, leaving in our hands one cannon 
and thirty prisoners, including a Colonel of Artillery. 

" On the 11th of April, 185t, led in by a deserter, they suc- 
ceeded in capturing one side of the lower plaza, and attempted 
to storm on other sides. In two hours they were again driven 
back with great slaughter, leaving in our hands nearly one 
hundred prisoners, all those who got within our works being 
killed or compelled to surrender. Their loss on that occasion 
has been since ascertained to have exceeded eight hundred. 



228 NICARAGUA. 

"From that time to the 1st of May they made no further 
attack and received no reinforcement of any consequence. They 
had none whatever to expect, except one corps of Salvadorians, 
whose advent and fidelity was doubtful and unimportant, and 
w^hose leader shortly after attempted a revolution. Up to the 
11th of April the besiegers had been under the impression that 
they could capture Rivas if they could enter it. They were 
then eager to get in. The result of the 11th destroyed this 
illusion, and they were equally anxious to keep out. 

" On the morning of the 1st of May the position of the be- 
siegers and of the besieged was as follows : Of the seven thou- 
sand men brought by the allied foreign invaders and insurgents 
against Rivas (two-thirds of which force had consisted of 
foreign invaders) there remained six hundred allies, and from 
one thousand to one thousand two hundred Nicaraguan in- 
surgents. Their entrenched camps had been much strengthened, 
but they could no longer with this reduced force, man effectively 
the connecting lines, which were over two miles in extent, and 
the besieged sent scouts and messengers through them, who 
almost always returned in safety. The besiegers were, besides, 
short of powder, and threatened with cholera and the rainy 
season, both of which had set in a fortnight earlier the year 
preceding. 

The besieged, on the other hand, were straitened for pro- 
visions and encumbered with wounded. For a month they 



WHAT WALKER EXPECTED TO DO. 220 

had been living on horse and mule meat, sugar and chocolate. 
They had been much weakened by desertion, but desertion 
had nearly done its worst. Their force consisted of two hun- 
dred and sixty Americans and forty natives capable of bear- 
ing arms. They had still left on the 1st of May two or three 
days' provisions, viz. : two oxen, two mules, three horses, and 
one thousand pounds of sugar. They were well supplied with 
ammunition, half their store being in Rivas. In the harbor 
of San Juan del Sur they had the war schooner Granada, 
which contained the other half of their ammunition, besides 
several hundred stand of small arms. 

''President Walker had remained thus long in Kivas, ap- 
prehending that Colonel Lockridge might march round by 
Chontales, and because there was every reason to believe that 
shortly after the action of the 11th April, the enemy would 
be obliged to raise the siege. It was his intention, after 
ordering the schooner Granada to sail for Realejo or some 
point northward, to evacuate Kivas when he came to his last 
day's provision. He had no doabt, by a night attack, of 
being able to force his way through their now weakened lines ; 
no thought of the besiegers attempting to pursue him till 
after daybreak, nor fear of being easily able to route their 
vanguard with his rear if they did. There was then nothing 
to impede his march to Kealejo, or other points where the 
schooner Granada with the ammunition and spare arms would 



230 ^ NICARAGUA. 

have met him. In the adjoining districts, where, but for the 
necessity of protecting the transit, he long since would have 
carried on the war, his native friends were anxiously awaiting 
either till the besiegers exhausted their strength on Rivas, 
or till we appeared amongst them. It is true that the be- 
sieged would have had to destroy the ammunition and heavier 
pieces at Kivas, and would have been compelled to leave 
their wounded behind them, but they would have carried with 
them the substantial guaranty of one hundred prisoners as 
hostages. 

"If it be doubted whether the besieged were strong enough 
to break through the lines of the besiegers, I have only to 
refer to many examples in the war, where, with a smaller 
force, greater obstacles were overcome. I will cite only 
three : On the 11th of JS'ovember, 1856, with two hundred 
and sixty-five men, and one gun, President Walker carried 
the entrenched camp and all the barricades on the transit 
route, held by General CaSas, with eight hundred Costa 
Kicans, and at least four times stronger than the lines of in- 
vestment at Rivas. On the Itth of the same month, with 
two hundred and sixty men, and three guns, he forced his 
way into Masaya, defended by two thousand men, captured 
half the city, held it for three days, and was hourly gaining 
ground, though ninety of his small force were killed and 
wounded. On the night of the 11th of November, one hun- 



I 



WHAT CAPTAIN DAVIS DID. 231 

dred and sixty men, landed by him three miles from Granada, 
carried successively four lines of barricades, and reported to 
me at daybreak on the 12th, at the Guadaloupe church. 

" To the schooner Granada, in the harbor of San Juan, there 
was no difficulty in communicating orders. Its immense im- 
portance at this juncture to the besieged is apparent, both 
as a magazine and as a means of conveying material of war, 
which they had no other means of transporting. 

" 'Now, sir, just at this critical juncture, and before the ques- 
tion of capitulation had been discussed, Captain Davis for- 
mally declared to me, on the night of the 30th of April, that 
he had embargoed the schooner by leaving orders with the 
United States force, which he commanded, to prevent her 
from leaving the harbor of San Juan, and he expressed his 
unalterable determination to take possession of her before he 
left the harbor. It was this act of intervention on the part 
of a United States officer which alone caused President 
Walker to entertain the proposed terms of capitulation. For 
the act, that is to say, the order to prevent the ^NTicaraguan 
schooner-of-war from leaving the harbor had already been 
given before he declared his intention of seizing her, 

'' The schooner Granada, (whose commander, Fayssoux, 
had fought her through as gallant an action as any living 
officer in any navy in the world has fought,) had been lying 
for many weeks next to the St. Mary, their officers interchang- 



232 NICARAGUA. 

ing courtesies. There could be no reason or pretext for pre- 
venting her leaving the port or taking possession of her on the 
1st of May, which had not existed for many weeks previously. 
There could be no motive for so doing, except that the be- 
sieged in Kivas had never before been reduced to depend on 
her possession, a motive so base that if Captain Davis en- 
deavored thereby to justify the change in his conduct from 
professed friendship to active hostility, which I cannot be- 
lieve, I am sure that neither the American people nor its 
Executive would hold tliis a justification. 

" The only explanation of Captain Davis' conduct is in the 
supposition that he had already pledged himself to give up 
the Granada to the besiegers, and, in fact, we afterward 
learned that when he first announced his action and future 
determination with regard to the schooner Granada, and pro- 
posed the outline of a capitulation to the besieged, he had 
for many days been negotiating it with the enemy, a fact of 
which the besieged were utterly ignorant, and which explained 
the unaccountable perseverance of the besiegers in continuing 
their siege, or their ability to keep their forces together 
through the end of April, they naturally concluding that 
these propositions were made with our knowledge and con- 
currence. By embargoing the Granada he constrained Presi- 
dent Walker into the acceptance of terms which otherwise 
he would never have thought of. But even after Captain 
Davis had thereby rendered our position so precarious, Presi- 



WHAT THE TROOPS SUFFERED. 233 

dent Walker would sooner have run the last hazard of war 
than have trusted his men, his wounded, or his native fellow- 
citizens to the faith of the invading or insurgent leaders with- 
out some such solid guaranty as either hostages or the flag 
of some powerful and civilized nation. Under circumstances 
more desperate than Captain Davis had rendered ours in 
Kivas, we persistently refused to do so. 

" On the retreat from Granada, there were in Granada, or 
between Granada and the Lake, four hundred and nineteen souls. 
Of these seventy-three were wounded men, seventy women and 
children. Of the two hundred and seventy-six men capable of 
bearing arms, forty-seven were cut off within ten minutes of the 
first attack. Of the remaining two hundred and twenty-nine, 
seventy-five were subsequently killed or wounded, besides those 
who died of cholera and typhus, (amounting to one hundred 
and twenty of all sexes and ages). They were exposed for 
seventeen days to rain and sunshine, without shelter, night or 
xlay, living on horse and mule meat, short of ammunition, 
incessantly fighting, and surrounded by a force larger than 
remained to beleaguer us in Kivas on the first of May — yet 
surrender or capitulation was never contemplated. At 
Kivas, the responsibility of the United States flag was held to 
be sufficient security for the' safety of those whom we were 
bound to protect at every sacrifice. 

" Captain Davis put into execution his threat of seizing the 
schooner Granada, after we had carried out, on our part, the 



234 NICARAGUA. 

terms of the capitulation, in which that vessel was not mentioned. 
He caused her to be seized by his first lieutenant, who sprung 
upon her the broadside of the St. Mary, and started a hundred 
men in boats to board her. Captain Fayssoux, with his crew, 
(then of seventeen men,) prepared for action, and only sui- 
rendered her on the written order of President Walker, who 
ordered him to yield to this demonstration of overwhelming 
force. 

" After taking possession of her. Captain Davis handed over 
this Nicaraguan schooner, not to the Nicaraguan insurgents, 
but to the Costa Ricans, who had no claim to her, and who 
could never have taken her, for the simple reason that they had 
already lost in the attempt their only man-of-war, the brig Onse 
de Abril, which, of the burden of two hundred and twenty-five 
tons, with four nine-pounders, and a crew of one hundred and 
eighteen men, was destroyed after a desperate action by the 
little schooner Granada, of seventy-five tons, with two sixes, 
and twenty-eight men crew. Her gallant captain had the mor- 
tification of seing her given up by Captain Davis to a Costa 
Rican Captain, a Jamaica negro, who had formerly been ser- 
vant to an American officer. After this step, the two vessels 
which constituted the Guatemala navy, and to which the Gran- 
ada had vainly offered battle, put to sea, and thereby obtained 
the opportunity of recently murdering, for the sake of his cargo, 
Christopher Lilly, an American neutral, trading on the coast." 
{Ex. Doc. No. 24, ^Uh Gong., 1st Sess., p. 22.) 



CHAPTER XXIIl. 

NICARAGUA THREATENS TO SUSPEND THE TRANSIT — HER PREAMBLE AND DE- 
CREES — LIEUT. ALMY APPLIES FOR INSTRUCTIONS — SUPPOSES A CASE IN 
WHICH FILLIBUSTERS FIGURE LARGELY — DELICATE POINTS GROWING OUT OF 
IT — DOES NOT WISH TO COMPROMISE OUR GOVERNMENT — SECRETARY TOUCEY 

POSTS HIM UP — SAYS HE MUST PREVENT FILLIBUSTERS FROM LANDING 

COMMODORE PAULDING HEARD FROM — SAYS HARD THINGS ABOUT WALKER 
AND HIS MEN — CONSIDERS HIS REASONS QUITE SUFFICIENT FOR SENDING 
THE FILLIBUSTERS HOME — REFUSES ANY CO-OPERATION FROM OTHER POWERS 
— WALKER GIVES HIS PAROLE OP HONOR — GOES HOME AT HIS OWN EXPENSE — 
GIVES HIMSELF UP TO MARSHAL RYNDERS — SENOR YRISARRI WRITES TO MR. 
CASS — SAYS NICARAGUA CONFIRMS THE CONTRACT WITH THE TRANSIT COM- 
PANY — THANKS THE UNITED STATES FOR TAKING WALKER AWAY — THINKS 
SHE DID THE HANDSOME THING — WANTS HIS LETTER PUBLISHED. 

The decree of Nicaragua to suspend the Transit, in the 
event of the appearance of freebooters in Central America is 
dated Managua, August 31, ISST, and is as follows ; 

" Administrative Department of the Supreme Government 
of the Republic of Mcaragua— God ! Union ! Liberty ! — The 

(235) 



236 NICARAGUA. 

Supreme Executive Power has been pleased to issue the fol- 
lowing decree : 

Whereas, the Atlantic and Pacific Maritime Canal Com- 
pany are about to commence the re-establishing of the 
line of Transit from one sea to the other, from San Juan 
del ISTorte, to San Juan del Sur, and vice versa, as it is stipu- 
lated in the agreement of the 22d of September, 1849, the sup- 
plementary one of the 11th of April, 1850, and in the last of 
the 19th of June of the present year, which resolves the con- 
ditions of Article 30 of the original contract ; and— 

*' Whereas, said establishment is of the highest interest to 
the United States of North America, and for the nations of 
the world in general, which advantages the Government of 
Nicaragua protects, so long as the freebooters shall not make 
attempts against the Independence of this Republic, and that 
of the other States of Central America : Decrees, 

" Article 1. The Kepublic of Nicaragua protests against all 
and whatever attempts which freebooters and pirates, of any 
denomination or from any quarter, may make against her in- 
dependence, or against that of any other of the States. 

^'Article 2. Prom the moment that such freebooters may 
make their appearance, and that it shall be known that they 
are preparing a new invasion, or that in effect they intend such 
against the Republic or against the other States of Central 
America, the Transit shall be suspended, as all the effects of 



LIEUT. ALMY APPLIES FOR INSTRUCTIONS. 231 

the agreement entered into with the Maritime Canal Company 
on the 19th of June. 

** Article 3. Should such an attempt or invasion take place 
after the re-establishment of the Transit by said Company, and 
the latter have complied strictly with the conditions of the 
contract relative to assistance to Nicaragua in defending her 
independence, her sovereignty over the Isthmus, and the neu- 
trality of the same ; or should said Company, before the resto- 
ration of the Transit, lend efficient aid and co-operation in 
said defense, it will, in the former case, continue in operation, 
and in the latter, the Transit shall not be closed, nor will any 
change be allowed in the exercise of the rights stipulated for 
the Company in said contract. 

" Article 4. Let this be communicated to the Minister 
Plenipotentiary in Washington, to the President of the Com- 
pany, and to the Ministers on the Diplomatic list." 

The following letter from Lieut. Almy, dated Oct. Y, 184T, 
to the Secretary of the Navy, asking for instructions relative 
to the course to be adopted by him in the event of seizing a 
*' suspicious vessel," bears upon the question of the Right of 
Search, and is highly interesting, as is also the Secretary's re- 
ply thereto, dated Oct. 12, 185Y. 

*' In regard to the instructions received by me from the 
Navy Department, dated the 3d instant, I am there referred 
for my guidance to the law enacted by Congress, approved 



238 NICARAGUA. 

April 20, 181 8, entitled 'An Act for the punishment of certain 
crimes against the United States,' and am also referred to a 
Circular issued by the State Department, dated September 18, 
185*1, addressed to various civil officers of the United States. 

" These directions to preserve the neutrality of the country 
are very plain for the government of officers where they are re- 
quired to act in the ports of, or in the jurisdiction of, the 
United States ; but I must confess that I might find myself 
embarrassed when required to act in a foreign and neutral 
port. Therefore, I must be pardoned for soliciting from the 
Honorable Secretary of the Navy answers to certain questions, 
and more specific instructions in the premises. 

" Suppose, for instance, that, while lying in a port of Central 
America, an American steamer should enter having on board a 
large number of men whom I suspect of being ' fillibusters' — 
people intending to land for the purpose of obtaining pos- 
session of the country, and of forming a Government there. 
Must I seize this vessel and bring her into a port of the United 
States, or merely use the force placed at my command to pre- 
vent their landing ? 

" It is generally conceded that American citizens have a 
right to travel and go where they please. Suppose that this 
suspicious body of men inform me that they are going to 
travel — that their intention is to cross the Isthmus, or intend 
to settle peaceably in the country for the purpose of developing 



WHAT THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVY SAYS. 239 

its agricultural resources ; indeed, that they have been invited 
to come and settle there ? 

" These and other delicate points and kindred questions 
which may suggest themselves to the Honorable Secretary of 
the Navy, I deem it necessary to be enlightened upon in order 
that I may not compromise the Government, and at the same 
time be enabled to assert and exercise the power entrusted to 
my hands with due spirit, dignity, and justice." 

The Secretary writes as follows : 

" In reply to your letter of the Tth instant, it is true that 
American citizens have a right to travel and to go where they 
please, when engaged in lawful pursuit, but not to violate the 
laws of their own or of any other country. They have a right 
to expatriate and to become citizens of any country which is 
willing to receive them, but not to make that right a mere 
cloak and cover for a warlike expedition against it or its 
Government. Your instructions do not authorize you to act 
arbitrarily, or upon mere suspicion. You will not seize an 
American vessel, or bring her into port, or use the force under 
your command to prevent her landing her passengers upon 
mere suspicion. You will be careful not to interfere with law- 
ful commerce. But where you find that an American vessel is 
manifestly engaged in carrying on an expedition or enterprise 
from the territories or jurisdiction of the TJnited States against 
the territories of Mexico, Nicaragua, or Costa Rica, contrary 



240 NICARAGUA. ' 

to the Gth section of the Act of Congress of April 20, 1818, 
already referred to, you will use the force under your command 
to prevent it, and will not permit the men or arms engaged in 
it, or designed for it, to be landed in any part of Mexico or 
Central America." 

The following letter from Commodore Paulding, dated 
December 15, 185t, Flag-Ship Wabash, off Aspin wall, to the 
Secretary of the Navy, is apropos — ■ 

"My letter of the 12th instant informed the Department 
that I had broken up the camp of General Walker, at Punta 
Arenas, disarmed his lawless followers, and sent them to Nor- 
folk in the Saratoga. The General came here with me, and 
will take passage in one of the steamers for New York, where 
he will present himself to the Marshal of the District. 

" The Department being in possession of ail the facts in re- 
lation to Walker's escape with his followers from the Dnited 
States, as well as the letters of Captain Chatard and Walker 
to me after he landed at Point Arenas, the merits of the whole 
question will, I presume, be fully comprehended. 

" I could not regard Walker and his followers in any other 
light than as outlaws who had escaped from the vigilance of 
the officers of the Government, and left our shores for the pur- 
pose of rapine and murder, and I saw no other way to vindi- 
cate the law and redeem the honor of our country than by 
disarming and sending them home. In doing so, I am sensible 



WHAT COMMODORE TAULDTNG SAYS. 241 

of the responsibility that I have incurred, and confidently look 
to the Government for my justification. Regarded in its true 
light, the case appears to me a clear one ; the points few and 
strong. Walker came to Point Arenas from the United 
States, having, in violation of law, set on foot a military 
organization to make war on a people with whom we are at 
peace. He landed there with armed men and munitions of 
war, in defiance of the guns of a ship-of-war placed there to 
prevent his lauding. With nothing to show that he acted by 
authority, he formed a camp, hoisted the Nicaraguan flag, 
called it the ' head-quarters of the Army of Nicaragua,' and 
signed himself the Commander-in-chief. 

*' With this pretension he claimed the right of a lawful 
general over all persons and things within sight of his flag. 
Without right or authority he landed fifty men at the mouth 
of the river Colorado, seized the fort of Castillo, on the San 
Juan, captured steamers and the goods of merchants in transit 
to the interior, killed men, and made prisoners of the peaceful 
inhabitants, sending to the harbor of San Juan del Norte 
some thirty or forty men, women, and children in the steamer 
Morgan. 

"In doing these things without the show of authority, they 

were guilty of rapine and murder, and must be regarded as 

outlaws and pirates. They can have no claim to be regarded 

in any other light. Humanity, as well as law and justice, and 

16 



242 NICARAGUA. 

national honor, demanded the dispersion of these lawless men. 
The remnant of these miserable beings who surrendered at 
Rivas were conveyed in this ship last summer to New York, 
and their sufferings are yet fresh in the memory of all on 
board. 

"Besides the sufferings that would necessarily be inflicted 
upon an innocent and unoffending people, these lawless fol- 
lowers of Greneral Walker, misguided and deceived into a 
career of crime, would doubtless have perished in Central 
America, or their mutilated and festering bodies have been 
brought back to their friends at the expense of their country. 

" For the above reasons, which appear to my mind quite 
sufficient, I have disarmed and sent to the United States 
General William Walker and his outlawed and piratical fol- 
lowers for trial, or for whatever action the Government in its 
wisdom may think proper to pursue. 

" Captain Ommanny, of H. B. M. ship Brunswick, offered 
to co-operate with me in removing the party from Point 
Arenas, but as they were my countrymen, I deemed it proper 
to decline the participation of a foreign flag. " 

General Walker accordingly took passage in a mail steamer 
from Aspinwall for New York, preferring this to a Govern- 
ment vessel, as will be seen by the following. It is dated 
United States Steam Frigate Wabash, off San Juan del Norte, 
December 11, 185t, and signed "William Walker." 



WALKER DELIVERS HIMSELF TO MARSHAL RYNDERS. 243 

** The option being given me to go to the United States 
in the Saratoga, or take passage at my own expense from 
Aspinwall to New York, I have preferred to return by way 
of Aspinwall, and will deliver this communication, in person, 
to the Marshal for the Southern District of New York." 

The communication referred to was addressed by Commo- 
dore Paulding to Isaiah Rynders, Marshal for the Southern 
District of New York. It is of the same date as the above, 
was duly delivered, and is as follows : 

*' This will be handed to you by General William Walker, 
who has given me his parole of honor that he will present it 
to you in person. With the naval force of this squadron I 
arrested General Walker on Punta Arenas, on the 8th instant, 
for a violation of the neutrality laws of the United States, he 
having set on foot in the United States an unlawful military 
organization to make war upon a people with whom we are 
at peace, and was, at the time of his arrest, at the head of said 
organization, in the act of making war, as above stated. 

*'As Marshal for the Southern District of New York, I 
consign him to your custody." 

The following, from Serior Yrisarri to Mr. Cass, contains 
the confirmation of the contract made with the Atlantic and 
Pacific Ship Canal Company, and other matters of interest. 
It is dated December 30th, ISSY. 

" The undersigned, Minister Plenipotentiary of the Republic 



244 NICARAGUA. 

of Nicaragua, has the honor of communicating to his Excel- 
lency the Secretary of State of the United States, that on the 
15th of last month the authority of the Republic of Nicaragua 
was assumed by General Martinez, elected to the presidency 
by an immense majority of votes, and that one of the first 
acts of the new head of that Kepublic was to confirm the 
appointment made in the person of the undersigned by former 
national governments as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 
Plenipotentiary to the Government of the United States. 

" The undersigned deems it also to be his duty to inform 
his Excellency the Secretary of State, that the Constituent 
Assembly of Nicaragua has approved and confirmed the con- 
tract made by the undersigned with the American Atlantic 
and Pacific Ship Canal Company, the only one vested with 
the privilege of carrying across the Isthmus — as the only one, 
also, which, for the present and so long as the Government 
will not have otherwise disposed — has the right to carry emi- 
grants to that country, under such conditions as have been 
imposed on said Company. All other emigrants or colonizers, 
whatsoever, that may be conveyed to that country will be re- 
fused admission, and compelled to depart from the territory 
of the Republic ; or they will be dealt with as enemies of the 
Republic should they appear there in the character borne by 
those lately introduced by the incorrigible adventurer William 
Walker. 



SENOR YRISARRI LIKES THE AMERICAN EAGLE. 245 

"The undersigned, in the name of the three governments 
which he represents, returns thanks to the Government of the 
United States for having taken away the adventurer William 
Walker and his invading band from the point of which they 
had taken possession on the coast of Nicaragua ; thus freeing 
those friendly countries from the evils with which they would 
have been visited had these disturbers of the peace of nations 
been allowed the possibility of increasing their forces by new 
recruits. Those who, in the service which the Government • 
of the United States has rendered to its friend, the Republic 
of Nicaragua, would seek for a warrant to say that the Nica- 
raguan territory has been violated, will hardly find it, from 
the moment that the world will have learned that the Govern- 
ment of Nicaragua, far from complaining of a violation of 
her territory, looks upon that act as an assistance, directed 
in behalf of its inviolability, which was wounded, in effect, by 
certain adventurers from the United States ; and that it con- 
siders such assistance extended by this Government, as a con- 
sequence of the measures which, by his note of the 14th of 
September last, the undersigned had asked this Government 
to adopt, giving orders to the navy of the United States to 
capture the violators of the laws of neutrality. 

" The point from which Commodore Paulding forced away 
those bandits, the violators of the laws of all nations, and, as 
such, justly assimilated, by the law of nations, to pirates and 



246 NICARAGUA. 

foes of mankind, is an almost desert one, on which there 
exists no Nicaraguan authorities that could have managed 
the apprehension of those felons. Nicaragua, therefore, con- 
siders that the proceedings of Commodore Paulding against 
Walker and his horde were entirely justifiable ; for, as a man- 
of-war of any nation may take up pirates from a desert island, 
or one so thinly peopled that they can assert their dominion 
over it, although that island might belong to another sover- 
eign nation, just so can bandits be apprehended, as enemies 
of the human race, by the armed vessels of a friendly nation, 
on a point of a foreign coast, which may be placed under cir- 
cumstances like to those of the island mentioned by way of 
illustration. 

" Considering it highly important that the tenor of this 
note — especially the portion touching emigration to Nicara- 
gua — should be made public, the undersigned would enter- 
tain the hope that the Secretary of State will find no objec- 
tion to have its contents published. 

" The undersigned, with highest consideration, has the 
honor of tendering to the Secretary of State the renewed 
assurance that he is his respectful servant. '^ 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

LANDING OF COLUMBUS ON THE MOSQUITO SHORE — ARE THE MOSQUITOES AN IN- 
DEPENDENT NATION? — WHAT VISCOUNT PALMERS TON SAYS ABOUT IT — THE 
CLAYTON AND BULWER TREATY — CONFLICTING VIEWS AS TO ITS CONSTRUCTION 
— THE ENGLISH CHARGE D'AFFAIRES TO THE GOVERNMENT OF NICARAGUA — • 

A RUNNING FIRE OF GASCONADE — THE SAME OFFICIAL ON BOUNDARY LINES 

WHAT BONNYCASTLE SAYS — TREATIES OF PEACE, BOUNDARIES AND COM- 
MERCE BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND SPAIN — WHAT AN OLD ENGLISH AUTHOR 
SAYS — MOTION TO CENSURE IN THE HOUSE OF LORDS — REFUSAL — THE SAM- 
BOES — PROBABLE ORIGIN OF THE MOSQUITO NAME — THE MOSQUITO SHORE 
COMPLETELY EVACUATED — THE SAMBOES IN A REAL ESTATE OPERATION — THE 
DOG IN THE MANGER — REVOLTED NEGROES FROM ST. DOMINGO — THE PRODUC- 
TIONS OF THE MOSQUITOES — BELIZE — ITS ARMORIAL BEARINGS — SURPLICE 
FEES. 

Columbus landed upon the Mosquito Coast, on Sunday, 
August the fourteenth, A. D. 1502, and is said to have taken 
formal possession of the country. A gun bearing his name, 
has been found imbedded in the sand, about twelve miles north 
of Grey town. This territory, held by the Republic of Nicar- 

(24t) 



248 NICARAGUA. 

agua, to be but the Atlantic margin of her domain, and as 
strongly controverted by Great Britain, has a present historic 
importance, as to whether the Moscos or Mosquitoes, in fact, 
be an independent, sovereign nation. Whether they ever have 
been, is a mooted question, and hence we approach the subject, 
aware of the importance of our position, nor shall we exceed 
the bounds of evidence in endeavoring to illustrate our pages. 

A previous chapter on this subject, was general in its tone. 
We shall particularize now, and uphold the views of the United 
States. When the question was broached, the subjoined was 
presented to Mr. Lawrence, in which, as to whether the Pro- 
tectorate is of modern data or not, as claimed by Great Britain, 
is set forth. It is dated. Foreign Office, Jan. 5, 1850, and is 
as follows : 

"Yiscount Palmerston presents his compliments to Mr. 
Lawrence, and begs to communicate to him, for his perusal, a 
translation in Spanish of a letter from Mr. Chatfield, her 
Majesty's Charge d'Affaires in Guatemala, addressed to the 
Government of Nicaragua, on the 5th of September last, con- 
taining a statement of facts, showing the nature of the connec- 
tion which has existed since the middle of the Seventeenth 
century, between Great Britain and the Mosquito nation." — 
(Senate, Doc. 21, p. 50.) 

We must not overlook the fact, that the " Clayton and Bal- 
wer Treaty" was concluded between the United States and 



THE CLAYTON AND BULWER TREATY. 249 

Great Bri.tain, April 19, 1850, and proclaimed in July of the 
same year. John M. Clayton, in his letter dated. Department 
of State, Washington, May t, 1850, informs the Country, that 
he has '' negotiated a Treaty with Sir Henry Bulwer ;" and in 
conclusion, he adds, '' Her (Great Britain's) protectorate will 
be reduced to a shadow — stat nominis umbra, for she can 
neither occupy, fortify, or colonize, or exercise dominion or 
control in any part of the Mosquito Coast or Central America. 
To attempt to do either of these things, after the exchange of 
ratifications, would inevitably produce a rupture with the 
United States. By the terms, neither party can occupy to 
protect, nor protect to occupy." Sir Henry Bidwer denied 
this construction in his letters to Mr. Webster, in which he 
holds, "that the Convention was not designed to affect the 
position of Her Majesty in respect to the Mosquito Shore.'' 

On the 15th of August, 1850, the English Representative in 
Central America, addressed the Government of Mcaragua as 
follows : " Instead of insisting on its supposed rights to the 
Mosquito Shore, Nicaragua would best consult her interests 
by at once making good terms with England ; for resistance in 
this matter will be of no avail. It is impossible that Nicaragug, 
should be ignorant of her Britannic Majesty's relation to the 
Mosquito question, as she has before her the letter of Yiscount 
Palmerston, of the date of April 15th last, (written, as will be 
seen, after the note to Mr. Lawrence,) which was sent to Nicar- 



250 NICARAGUA. 

agua at a later period, in which he declares in the most clear 
and direct terms, the utter impossibility of acceding to the 
pretensions of Nicaragua. On the other hand, the Treaty of 
Messrs. Clayton and Bulwer, about which you have so much to 
say, and in which you express so much confidence, expressly 
recognizes the Mosquito Kingdom, and sets aside the rights 
which you pretend Nicaragua has on that coast. The true 
policy for Nicaragua, is to undeceive herself in this respect, 
and to put no further confidence in the protestations or 
assurances of pretended friends, (viz. Americans). It will be 
far better for her to come to an understanding without delay, 
with Great Britai'n ; on which nation, depends not only the 
welfare and commerce of the State, but also the probability of 
accomplishing any thing positive concerning inter-oceanic 
communication through her territories ; because it is only in 
London that the necessary capital for such an enterprise can 
be found." 

This certainly is gasconading to some purpose, though the 
Government of Nicaragua still believed there was almost as 
much capital to be had, for a remunerative enterprise, in the 
United States as in London. Again, on December 5th, fol- 
lowing, the same of&cial informed, in writing, the Government 
of Nicaragua, of the boundaries " which Her Majesty's Gov- 
ernment proposes to assert for the Mosquito King" — Thus : — 

" The undersigned, her Britannic Majesty's Charge d'Affaires 



BOUNDARY LINES OP THE MOSQUITO TERRITORY. 251 

in Central America, with this view, has the honor to declare 
to the Minister of Foreign Kelations of the Supreme Govern- 
ment of Nicaragua, that the general boundary line of the Mos- 
quito Territory, begins at the Northern extremity of the houn- 
dary line between the district of Tegucigalpa, in Honduras, 
and the jurisdiction of Neio Segovia ; and after following the 
Noi^thern frontiers of JSfew Segovia, it runs along the South- 
p,astern limit of the District of Matagalpa and Chontales, and 
chence in an Eastern course, until it reaches the Machuca 
Bapids, on the River San Juan.^^ 

*' The Mosquito Shore, (says Bonnycastle), was held by Great 
Britain for eighty years," which agrees with the date It 83, 
when a Treaty of peace, boundaries, and commerce, was 
declared between it and Spain. Article 6th of said Treaty 
stipulates, that " English subjects shall have the right of cutting, 
loading, and carrying away logwood in the District lying 
between the River Wallis, or Belize, and Rio Hondo." Be- 
Tiiember that this is distant hundreds of miles from the 
Mosquito Coast. " Therefore, (we continue), all the English 
who may be dispersed in any other parts, whether on the Span- 
ish Continent, (main land,) or in any of the Islands whatsoever, 
dependent on the aforesaid Spanish Continent, and for what- 
ever reason it might be, without exception, shall return within 
the District which has been above described, in the space of 
eighteen months, and for this purpose orders shall be issued on 



252 NICARAGUA. 

the part of His Britannic Majesty." — (Sen. Doc 15, Vol X, 
page 16.) 

Was this then not an actual abandonment of any heretofore, 
or then pretended claims upon the part of Great Britain to the 
Mosquito Territory ? By their covenanting to the foregoing, 
did they not solemnly waive all claim to space, outside of the 
therein-prescribed bounds and metes ? 

In 1186, July 14, in a further Treaty between the same 
parties, by Article 1st, it was stipulated, " His Britannic Ma- 
jesty's subjects and the other colonists who have hitherto en- 
joyed the protection of England, shall evacuate the country of 
the Mosquitoes, as well as the Continent in general, and the 
Islands adjacent, without exception, situated beyond the line 
hereinafter described as what ought to be the position of the 
extent of territory granted by His Catholic Majesty to the 
English, for the uses specified in the third Article of the present 
Convention ; and in addition to the country already granted to 
them in virtue of the stipulations agreed upon by the Com- 
missioners of the two Crowns in 1183. The lines specified in 
the other articles of the Treaty, as the boundaries of the special 
possession of the English, were the Kio Hondo on the North, 
and the River Sibun on the South, together with the small 
Island of Casino, St. George's Key or Cayo Casino, and the 
cluster of small islands which are situate opposite that part 
of the coast occupied by the cutters, at the distance of eight 



TREATY BETWEEN SPAIN AND GREAT BRITAIN. 253 

leagues from the Kiver Sibiin, a place which has always been 
, found well adapted for that purpose." 

In Article Ith, all the foregone conclusions of the Treaty of 
1183 are confirmed, with added stringent restrictions, liberty 
being granted on the part of Spain, for the English to cut 
mahogany, &c. Upon the part of Great Britain, in Article 
2d thereof, His Britannic Majesty agreed, that " should there 
still remain any persons so daring as to presume, by retiring 
into the interior country, to endeavor to obstruct the entire 
evacuation already agreed upon. His Britannic Majesty, so far 
from affording them the least succor, or even protection, will 
disown them in the most solemn manner, as he will equally do 
those who may hereafter attempt to settle upon the territory be- 
longing to the Spanish domain." — (Sen. Doc. 75, Vol. X. p. 23.) 

Article 14th stipulates, to wit : " His Catholic Majesty 
prompted solely by motives of humanity, promises to the King 
of England, that he will not again exercise any act of severity 
against the Mosquitoes inhabiting in part the countries 
which are to be evacuated by virtue of the present Convention, 
on account of the connections which may have subsisted be- 
tween the said Indians and the English ; and His Britannic 
Majesty, on his part, will strictly prohibit all his subjects from 
furnishing arms or warlike stores to the Indians in general, 
situated upon the frontier of the Spanish possessions." — (Sen. 
Doc. 75, Vol. X. p. 13.) 



254 NICARAGUA. 

In this connection we furnish, as worthy of attention, the 
following from Yol. 2, p. 423, of "A Journey through Spain," 
by Townsend, published in London, 1*192. ''Ever since the 
war, the exertions of Spain have been incessant to render her 
marine respectable ; but more especially when I was there, all 
was in motion, and the Minister of the Marine was making 
the most strenuous efforts to equip a formidable fleet. This 
was done to vindicate their claims upon the Mosquito Shore, 
although that territory was never subject to the Crown of 
Spain, and the independent Princes who have dominion there 
had been for ages in alliance with the English Nation. When 
I returned to England, I examined the nature and extent of 
the settlement which caused so much uneasiness to Spain. It 
consisted of no more than five hundred and sixty-nine freemen, 
including the women and their children, with one thousand 
seven hundred and sixty-three black slaves, and two hundred 
and four head of cattle. 

" The uneasiness arose, therefore, not from the number of the 
settlers, but from their contraband trade ; from their communi- 
cation with the Mosquitoes, who, in time of war, had been 
used to molest the Spaniards ; and from the apprehension that, 
by their means, the English, in some future war, might estab- 
lish themselves in force on the Lake of Nicaragua. This settle- 
ment was certainly valuable to England as the connecting 
medium between Jamaica and the Spanish Main for the ex- 



WHAT AN OLD ENGLISH AUTHOR SAYS. 255 

chan2:e of our manufactures with Guatemala aji^ainst indigo, 
cochineal, silver, and nard dolUirs. Indeed, the indigo, grow- 
ing wild on all that coast, yields the best commodity, and no 
country produces finer sugar-canes. 

" The infant colony made about a hundred and fifty hogs- 
heads in one year; but being obliged to pay the foreign duty 
in England, the mills were suffered to decay. Mahogany was 
a principal article of their commerce ; and of this the annual 
export was about three million feet. Besides these articles, 
they sent to England four tons of turtle-shells, paying a duty 
of one shilling a pound, with a hundred and twenty thousand 
pounds weight of sarsaparilla, the duty of which, at seven 
pence a pound, was three thousand five hundred pounds ; a 
sum more than sufficient to discharge all the expenses of this 
new settlement. 

" Such was the value of our possessions on the Mosquito 
Shore, that neither the Minister who signed the preliminaries 
of peace at the close of a disastrous war, nor his immediate 
successor in office, who ratified that peace, would agree to 
their relinquishment; yet, in the year ItSY, the settlement was 
evacuated, and our most faithful allies were abandoned to the 
mercy of their inveterate enemies." 

March 26th, ItSt, Lord Rowdon brought a motion in the 
House of Lords to censure the king's ministers for having 
given up the Mosquito Shore to Spain. (Contents, 17 ; Non- 



256 NICARAGUA. 

contents 53.) The ministry defended the treaty, holding 
*' that the British settlement on the Mosquito Shore was not 
a regular and lawful settlement, and that the Mosquito nation 
were not allies, and therefore Great Britain was not bound to 
protect them." The vote of censure was refused by a large 
majority of the peers. We have here, then, a total abandon- 
ment by Great Britain of all claim, affiliation, or even interest 
in the regal brother whom they lately embraced so warmly. 

We have given the account of the coronation of a Mosquito 
king at Belize, in a former chapter. When the Duke of 
Albermarle was Governor of Jamaica, the Indians put them- 
selves under his protection, and their king had a commission 
granted him from Great Britain. Since that time, it is as- 
serted, the new monarch always goes to Jamaica to receive this 
document, the Indians refusing to acknowledge his authority 
until he does so. They are confidently asserted by many 
authors to be descendants of slaves from Guinea, who were 
wrecked on this coast. They are called Samboe Mosquitoes. 
(Yery significant of the Red-man's origin.) The crown is 
succeeded to hereditarily, and the king (as he is called) is a 
despotic monarch. The musquitoes annoy them excessively, 
and probably hence they may have received their title. 

July 4th, I'lST, Colonel Grimarest, as Commissioner from 
the King of Spain, and His Majesty's Superintendent, Des- 
pard, went up the rivers to mark the limits, and to endeavor 



THE SAMBOES IN A REAL ESTATE OPERATION. 25 1 

to discover the sources of the Beh'ze and the Sibun. The 
said Commissioner published, on his return to Belize, permis- 
sion to the English settlers to enter upon the new district, 
agreeable to the late treaty with Spain, viz. : it 86. July 1, 
IT 87, Colonel Lawrie, late Superintendent on the Mosquito 
Shore, arrived at Belize in His Majesty's ship Camilla, 
Captain Hull, and the Mosquito shore was completely evac- 
uated, conformably to treaty. 

July 10th, It 87, David Lamb, Surveyor, was employed by 
the Superintendent to lay out lots fifty feet by one hundred, 
to be ballotted for, on the south point of Belize River mouth. 
August 2d, 1787, the ballot took place, and the Superin- 
tendent in person delivered possession to those who drew 
them ; chiefly amongst the settlers from the Mosquito Shore. 
November 19th, 1791, two hundred and seventeen revolted 
negroes from St. Domingo were disembarked on English Key, 
distant seven leagues only from Belize, by the French ship, 
L'Emanuel, Captain Colmin, he having been prohibited from 
selling them by the magistrates. 

The legal territory for Great Britain, hence, was Belize 
and its dependencies, as described. It was to this point, 
then, that this power induced the Mosquitoes to flock, where 
they employed themselves in fishing among the Keys, particu- 
larly for the hawksbill, a species of turtle, which are plentiful, 
and from which is obtained the tortoise-shell. For this they re- 
17 



258 NICARAGUA. 

ceived from six to seven dollare per pound, and at times more. 
Here, then, they centred, and here their kings were crowned, 
that the tribe, in toto, might be concentrated about or near the 
merchants. But while England forbade the sale of the 
revolted slaves from St. Domingo, we find she dealt in the 
article, probably sub rosa in a manner, yet de facto. 

The town of Belize is at the mouth of the river of the 
same name, and was so called from its discoverer, Wallice, a 
noted Buccaneer, who made it his place of retreat. The Span- 
iards write it Waliz, and subsequently it became corrupted 
into Balleze, or as it is now called Belize. Its armorial bear- 
ings may be read thus : Chief Dexter — Argent — the Union 
Jack, proper ; Chief Sinister on the Proper — the Chiefs di 
vided from the Body of the Shield by a chevron-shaped Parti- 
tion from the Fess of the Dexter and Sinister base — Points — . 
the intermediate space, azure — a Ship with set sails on the 
Sea, passant proper — Crest, Mahogany tree ; Motto, " Sub 
umbr^a flored'^ — Supporters, negroes ; that to the left, with 
a paddle — to the right, with an axe over his shoulder. The 
motto is appropriate. The poor fellows flourish everywhere 
in the shade — and — clover. 

But Great Britain disavows slavery ; her aim ever has been 
to its extinction ; and yet before me lies a document, official, 
confirmed by the magistrates of the settlement, dated Septem- 
ber 19, 181t, wherein is embraced the Table of Fees payable 



SURPLICE FEES OF THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 259 

to the Clerk of St. John's Church. Items three and four, 
under head of Baptisms. Slaves, if ten in number, or under, 
at one time, each three shillings and four pence ; above ten, 
at one time, and if owned by one person, each two shillings 
and six pence. Under the head of Marriages, we find — Of 
slaves, gratis ! — Burials. — Of slaves above ten years old, five 
shillings ; under ten, three shillings and four pence. The 
above are classed in Table of Surplice Fees. Confirmed June 
27, 1817. "The Law requires that these Fees be paid at 
the time of service, and in default of which, they are recover- 
able by Warrants of Distress. Slave Fees are invariably de- 
frayed by the owners." 



CHAPTER XXV. 

THE MOSQUITO COAST AGAIN — TJSURPATIONS OF ENGLAND — CLAIMS OF SPAIN — 
INDEPENDENCE OP GUATEMALA — ENGLAND'S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS — THE COL- 
ONY OF BAY ISLANDS — CONFLICTING CLAIMS — AN ACT OF THE ENGLISH PAR- 
LIAMENT — THE TREATY OF 1850 — THE PROTECTORATE FICTION AND LORD 
JOHN RUSSEL — THE UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN — LORD CLARENDON'S 
ARGUMENT — MR. CLAYTON AS RENDERED BY MR. LAWRENCE — LORD CLAREN- 
DON AGAIN — MR. WEBSTER MISCONSTRUED — LORD JOHN RUSSEL TO THE 
POINT. 

We shall pursue the history of the Colonization of Great 
Britain on this coast, and shall prove her desire to act in bad- 
faith with Spain prior to meeting her demands upon the United 
States, and upholding the position the latter assumed, predi- 
cated upon the Clayton and Bulwer Treaty. 

The frequent and continued breaches of the Treaty of 

1Y86, and consequent usurpations upon the part of England, 

were sustained by Lord Clarendon, who alleged "that the 

Treaty of 1186 was abrogated in 1814 by the war between the 

(2C0) 



INDEPENDENCE OF GUATEMALA. 261 

contracting parties, at which time the Belize Settlement ex- 
tended to the Sarstoun River, which is far South of the Sibun 
the prescribed boundary. In 1812 Spain adopted a new and 
written Constitution, in defiance of the despotic powers of 
Europe ; said Constitution contained this Article : " Guate- 
mala, with the internal Provinces of the East and West, and 
the adjacent lalands in both Seas form part of the Spanish 
dominion." Under this Constitution, Spain was recognized 
by England, who guarantied her sovereignty. 

Guatemala in 1823 discarded the Spanish yoke, and became 
a Confederated Kepublic, and its Constitution thus described 
the domain claimed : " The Territory of the Republic is the 
same which formerly comprised the ancient Kingdom of Guate- 
mala, with the exception for the present of Chiapas." This 
territory included the whole of the Mosquito Coast. The 
British settlement between the Silver and the Rio Hondo, 
called Belize, belonging within the Spanish Province of 
Yucatan, by the revolution came under the sway of Mexico. 
England acknowledged the latter's independence, stipulating 
that British subjects, dwelling in its territories, " should enjoy 
the rights which had been granted to them by Spain in the 
Treaty of 1*786." 

Did not England herein reaffirm her own exclusion from Cen- 
tral America ? Where then was in fact, any Mosquito Kingdom, 
as a distinct and independent territory ? If such had existence, 



262 NICARAGUA. 

they were heathens, having neither king, churches, ministry, 
parliament, schools, or council; no army, navy; no treasury, 
customs, taxes, revenue, police, industry, trade, and no inter- 
course diplomatic with any other people. True, the English 
authorities were present ; and from Great Britain did they 
derive their powers and salaries. 

On the ITth of July, fourteen days subsequent to the nego- 
tiation of the " Clayton and Bulwer Treaty," a proclamation 
was issued by the Government of Great Britain, constituting 
the Islands of Kuatan, in the Caribbean Sea — in Central 
America, and not in British Honduras, four hundred miles 
distant from Belize — Bonacca, Utilla, Barbaret, Helene, and 
Mocrat, a colony under the Colony of the Bay Islands. Kua- 
tan and Bonacca are said to be, on account of their fine har- 
bors, good soils, fine air, abundant animals, and their com- 
manding sites, " the Gardens of the West Indies, the Key to 
Spanish America, and a new Gibraltar." 

The United States insist upon England's discontinuing this 
new Colony. The latter refuses, alleging that the Colony is 
within the Belize Settlements, or British Honduras, and being 
so, is excepted from the Treaty. The Islands excepted arc 
only small ones in the neighborhood of and assigned to the 
Belize in the Treaty of It 86, while the Bay Islands are neither 
small, nor in the vicinity of the Belize ; they are certainly of 
vast importance as to location and wealth. 



THE COLONY OF BAY ISLANDS. 2G3 

The Treaty of 1786 assigned them to the "Spanish Coiiii- 
nent," and expressly excludes Great Britain from them. 
Spain held them until the Revolution in Central America. In 
1829 the State of Honduras assumed possession, and their en- 
sign was planted on Ruatau. In 1839, England supplanted it 
with her own, yet this was soon lowered, and that of Honduras 
was restored. 

In 181t the English Parliament passed a law, entitled "An 
Act for the more effectual punishment of murders and man- 
slaughters committed in places not within His Majesty's 
dominions." The preamble runs thus : " Whereas grievous 
murders and manslaughters have been committed at the settle- 
ment in the Bay of Honduras, in South America, the same 
Bay or settlement being for certain purposes in the possession 
of and within the protection of His Majesty, by persons re- 
siding within that settlement, &c." Parliament amended this 
statute, in 1819, and reaffirmed that ''Belize was not within 
the territories and dominions of Great Britain." 

I have now proven that England never occupied the Belize, 
save in subordination to the Spanish title. That in 1826, 
Great Britain, in recognizing the Independence of Mexico, 
expressly stipulated ''for her settlement at the Belize, the 
privileges granted by the Treaty with Spain of 1786." And 
again, I have shown that England, although in 1819 reaffirm- 
ing that this settlement " was not within her territories and 



264 NICARAGUA. 

dominions, yet alleges that by the war in 1812, the Treaty 
was abrogated in 1814, although she did not even then chal- 
lenge Spain's title, or allege a change in the nature or extent 
of her possessions. To conciliate and to calm this vexed 
question forever, the Treaty of 1850 was entered into, in which 
Great Britain solemnly and forever relinquished and abandoned 
whatever pretensions she may have ever before made to the 
Bay Islands." 

The imposture of the Mosquito King failed, and the pro- 
tectorate fiction dissolved upon the publicity of Lord John 
Kussel's statements, of January 19th, 1853. " It is evident 
(we quote him) that since Great Britain first assumed the 
protection and defense of the Mosquito Indians, the positions 
of all parties have changed. First, Spain, instead of exercising 
absolute sovereignty over Central America, and prohibiting all 
commerce on the coast under her sway, has entirely lost her 
domain over the Continent from Cape Horn to Florida ; 
secondly, the Mosquito Indians, instead of governing their own 
tribe, according to their own customs, furnish a name and title 
to Europeans and Americans, who carry on trade at Greytown, 
and along the Coast of Mosquito, according to the usages of 
civilized nations ; thirdly, Great Britain, instead of having an 
interest in the defense of the Mosquito Indians, for the sake of 
rescuing part of the territory of Central America from Spanish 
control, and obtaining an outlet for her, has no other interest 



THE UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN. 265 

in Mosquito tlian that which is derived from an honorable 
regard for her old connection with the Indian nation at Mos- 
quito." 

The United States from the foregoing, and especially insist- 
ing upon the stipulations of the Treaty of 1850, hold, that 
Great Britain is bound to withdraw from the Mosquito Coast, 
This is in turn denied by England, who asserts that the stipu- 
lations are only prospective, and do not seize upon, or terminate 
occupancy in a colony of hers which was existing at the time 
of the concluding of the Treaty. She argues, such effect is 
only inferential ; for, should it have been intended, it would^ 
have been embodied, as an express renunciation. Great Britain 
stipulates therein, that she will not, that is to say, after this 
time henceforward, enter into, maintain any colony or occu- 
pancy, or exercise any dominion over the Mosquito Coast. Then 
w^hy not have retired from, discontinue, give up, relinquish, and 
abandon whatever colony, occupancy, or domain, of whatever 
nature, she subsequently has maintained therein or thereon ? 
This entire concession she repeats ; " she will not, from this 
time henceforward make use of any protection which she now 
affords to any state or people, for the purpose of maintaining 
any colony or occupation, or exercising any dominion whatever 
on the Mosquito Coast." 

The United States have no colony, occupancy, or dominion 
of any nature on the Coast, or in any portion of Central Amer- 



266 NICARAGUA. 

ica, and they stipulate, that "they never will obtain or assume 
any such." Great Britain further agrees, not only that she 
will not obtain or assume any new colony, occupation, or 
dominion there, but will not hereafter maintain or exercise 
any such that is now existing." 

Lord Clarendon argues, that the English construction is 
based after the principle of " neutrality." He writes,—" Great 
Britain has colonies, occupations, and dominions in Central 
America ; the United States have none ; if England abandons 
hers, she receives no equivalent for her surrendered advan- 
tages. " But the United States deny in toto her title to these 
colonies, occupations, and dominions, and say that of Nicaragua, 
was held to be the more valid. Here they conflict, and hence 
the mutual agreement to abandon Central America to the 
States " existing there, to whom it belongs." 

Abashed, yet not entirely mortified, England resumes the 
contest of words, and Lord Clarendon shelters his argument 
under the conduct of Spain and the United States previous to 
the Treaty ; true, Spain did not remonstrate against the pro- 
tectorate during her last hours in America, for she was else- 
where completely occupied and harassed with her insurgent 
provinces ; but prior to 1849, Central America, and the States 
of Honduras, Guatemala, and Nicaragua, invited the United 
States to challenge the loyalty of the said protectorate. Then 
we had no interest there, but subsequently we did acquire a 



MR. CLAYTON AS RENDERED BY MR. LAWRENCE. 26t 

title and interest, and our Government promptly announced its 
opposition to the continuance of the protectorate. 

The language of Mr. Clayton, as rendered by Mr. Lawrence, 
is certainly very explicit : " Is Great Britain eager, or willing 
that the question of her alleged protectorate should be tried at 
the bar of the public opinion of the world ? Does she believe 
that she can obtain credit for having undertaken it from a con- 
viction that the Mosquitoes were competent to discharge the 
duties of sovereignty ? Or is she disposed to hazard the notor- 
iety of the fact, that the visor of royalty which she would fain 
place upon the pseudo-monarch of that region, is too transparent 
to conceal the features of a real sovereign ? Can Great Britain 
imagine that the commercial nations of the world will tacitly 
allow her, by means so invidious, to obtain substantial and 
exclusive control over the right of way to the Pacific, by the 
Port of San Juan, and the river of that name, or to wrest the 
sovereignty over that region from the rightful proprietor ? In 
such pretensions, we trust that the United States, at least, will 
never acquiesce." — (^Sen. Doc. 2*7, page 19, Vol, III., Sess. 
2, B2d Gong.) 

The resort of Lord Clarendon next is to the stipulation by 
which the parties agree to invite all powers friendly to enter 
into stipulations similar to those contained in the Treaty, 
arguing that this agreement would include the Central Ameri- 
can States, while if they should accept the invitation, and 



268 NICARAGUA. 

sign the Treaty, they would thereby, according to the construe 
tion of the United States, renounce the territories in which 
they exist. A glance at the context shows that two classes 
of States are here contemplated ; one, not existing in Central 
America ; the other, those which are already established there. 
The first, only, are invited to imitate the example of the con- 
tracting parties, and enter into their present stipulations with 
the second class, to wit, the Central American States. 

Lord Clarendon in his statement of September 11th, 1855, 
resumes the argument thus : " If the Treaty had been intended 
to act upon and terminate the protectorate, it would have 
contained in specific terms a renunciation on the part of 
Great Britain of the possessions and rights which, up to the 
conclusion of the convention, she had claimed to maintain. 
The treaty," he adds, ''would then have imposed upon Great 
Britain the obligation to renounce possessions and rights 
without any equivalent renunciation on the part of the United 
States. And still," he proceeds, " if the convention was in- 
tended to impose upon Great Britain an obligation to with- 
draw from portions of territories occupied by it, then the 
Government of the Central American States would, by the 
mere act of accession, sign away their rights to the territories 
in which they were situated." And upon the same hypothesis, 
he writes : " The British Government neither have the wish 
to extend the limits of their possessions or the sphere of their 



LORD CLARENDON AGAIN. 269 

influence in that quarter, nor would any British interest be 
promoted by doing so. But the British Government are not 
prepared to contract eitlier the one or the other." 

And in contrast here, let me insert his statement, dated 
May 3d, 1854. "It is proper that Her Majesty's Govern- 
ment should at once state that Her Majesty has never held 
any possessions whatever in the Mosquito country. But 
although Great Britain held no possessions in the Mosquito 
country, she undoubtedly exercised a great and extensive 
influence over it as the protecting ally of the Mosquito king." 
Here are exhibited variations we little expected ; but his lord- 
ship proved his expertness upon the diplomatic-chromatic 
S(;9,le in an eminent degree. His continuation will enlighten 
us probably. " Mr. Buchanan confounds the conditions of a 
sovereignty and a protectorate, and, under this error, treats 
the agreement ' not to colonize, or occupy, or fortify, nor as- 
sume, nor exercise dominion over,' as an agreement not to 
protect. With respect to sovereignty. Great Britain never 
claimed, and does not now claim or hold any sovereignty over 
the Mosquito." 

By custom of both European and American states, savage 
tribes, though suffered to exercise some municipal powers, 
have no actual sovereignty, for this is vested in the State or 
nation which directly exercises or derives to itself the title 
acquired by discovery. Did not Great Britain acquire and 



270 NICARAGUA. 

maintain until the Treaty of Yersailles, in 1783, sovereignty 
within the domain of the original United States? Did not 
France also acquire and maintain the sam'e in Canada and 
the West India Islands until the fall of Quebec in 17C4, when 
she transferred to Great Britain ? Did not Spain acquire 
title to the Floridas and the vast territory in Louisiana as 
also in Mexico, Central and South America? How, other- 
wise, did Denmark acquire her hold in the West Indies ? 
Portugal her possessions in Brazil, the Empire of which now 
rests on the same title ? 

By referring to the conversation had between Mr. Bives and 
Lord Palmerston, will be perceived the apposite confession 
of Great Britain to the present occasion. Lord Palmerston 
admitted the general doctrine for which we contended " was 
the principle on which they conducted (i. e. the English) all 
their relations with the Indian tribes in Canada ; but that the 
case of the Mosquitoes was *'' sui generis,''' and stood upon its 
own peculiar circumstances." Admitting the universal law, if 
there are to be cases '^ sui generis,''^ the totality ceases, and 
the universal fractured, becomes the customary, usual law. 

Lord Clarendon contends that the Epglish construction of 
the Treaty of 1850 was sanctioned by Mr. Webster, then 
Secretary of State. It is said that Mr. Webster advised 
Mr. Marcoleta, the Nicaraguan Minister, to accept a Treaty 
proposed to his State and Costa Rica by England, upon " the 



LORD JOHN RUSSEL TO THE POINT. 211 

basis of that construction;" but no doubt it was intended 
solely as a compromise. It failed, however, and the United 
States never endorsed the opinion of the Secretary, maintain- 
ing their own construction rigidly and inviolate. 

Lord John RussePs letter, already in part inserted, speaks 
pointedly and frankly and the conclusion of it is so direct 
and positive, that we quit the discussion, assured of the 
validity of the position assumed thereon by the United States. 
His lordship writes : " The peculiarity of this case is, that 
certain neighboring States deny altogether the independence 
of Mosquito ; and the Mosquito nation are liable any day to 
new incursions upon their territory. We can make no new 
provision against this danger. Our policy is to do all that 
honor and humanity require in behalf of the Mosquito nation ; 
but we intend to adhere steadily to the Treaty of Washington 
of the 19th of April, 1850, and not to assume any sovereignty 
direct in Central America." 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE INTER-OCEAN'IC CANAL — CHARTER FOR THE TRANSIT ROUTE — SYNOPSIS OP 
ITS PROVISIONS — ITS IMPORTANCE TO THE UNITED STATES — POSTULATE OP 
PRESIDENT MONROE — BRITISH INTERFERENCE — NICARAGUA PROTESTS — THE 
CLAYTON AND BULWER TREATY MOOTED — MR. RIVES TO LORD PALMERSTON— 
REPLY OF THE LATTER — CARDINAL POINTS OP THE TREATY — TREATY OP COM 
MERGE AND FRIENDSHIP WITH NICARAGUA — THE CANAL COMPANY'S CHARTER 
AMENDED — LEONEZE PROTEST — SAVE ME FROM MY FRIENDS ! — VIVE LA 
CHAMPAGNE ! — THE CANAL IN NUBIBUS — THE TRANSIT TANGIBLE. 

The Transit, or in other words, the route per the Kio San 
Juan, from Greytown on the Atlantic side to Lake Nicaragua, 
thence across to Virgin Bay, and thence overland twelve miles, 
to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific, is a highway in which, 
save as a speculation, Nicaragua itself has but little interest, 
inasmuch as it develops no internal resources, no agricultural 
or mineral wealth, conciliates neither the Serviles or the oppo- 
nents, but is solely a source whence the State receives a profit, 
an annual subsidy. That the route should be under a pro- 
(272) 



THE GRANT FOR THE TRANSIT ROUTE. 273 

tectorate, joint if desired, there cannot be a doubt, since 
Nicaragua convulsed by revolutions is unable at present to 
maintain either its tranquillity, or neutrality. 

On the 2'7th of August, 1849, a Grant was obtained, and 
ratified with an American Company on the 23d of September, 
from which a Charter was consummated under the assurance 
that if of a proper character, the American Government was 
willing to extend to it its guarantees. A synopsis of the 
provisions therein contained, may prove at present, interesting. 
It is as follows : 

1st. That the American Atlantic and Pacific Ship Canal 
Company may construct a Ship Canal, at its own expense, 
from the Port of San Juan, or any more feasible point on the 
Atlantic, to the Port of Kealejo, or any other point within the 
territories of the Republic, on the Pacific, and make use of all 
lands, waters, or natural materials of the country for the 
enterprise. 

2d. The dimensions of the Canal shall be sufficiently great 
to admit vessels of all sizes. 

3d. The Grant is for the period of eighty-five years from 
the completion of the work ; the preliminary surveys to be 
commenced within twelve months ; the work to be completed 
within twelve years, unless unforeseen events, such as earth- 
quakes or wars, shall intervene to prevent it ; if not com- 
pleted within that time, the charter to be forfeit, and whatever 

work may have been done, to revert to the State ; at the end 
18 



2T4 NICARAGUA. 

of eighty-five years the work to revert to the State free from 
all" indemnity for the capital invested; the Company, never- 
theless, to receive fifteen per cent, annually of the net profits, 
for ten years thereafter, if the entire cost shall not exceed 
twenty million dollars ; but if it does exceed that sum, then it 
shall receive the same per centage for twenty years thereafter. 

4th. The Company to pay to the State ten thousand dollars 
upon the ratification of the contract, and ten thousand dollars 
annually until the completion of the work ; also to give to the 
State two hundred thousand dollars' worth of stock in the Canal, 
upon the issue of stock ; the State to have the privilege of 
taking five hundred thousand dollars of stock in the enter^ 
prise ; to receive for the first twenty years, twenty per cent, 
annually out of the net profits of the Canal, after deducting 
the interest on the capital actually invested, at the rate of 
seven per cent. ; and also to receive twenty-five per cent, 
thereafter, until the expiration of the Grant. 

5th. The Company to have the exclusive right of navigating 
the interior waters of the State by steam, and the privilege, 
within the twelve years allowed for constructing the Canal, of 
opening any land or other route, or means of transit or con- 
veyance across the State ; in consideration of which, the Com- 
pany shall pay, irrespective of interest, ten per cent, of the net 
profits of such transit to the State, and transport, both on 
such route, and on the Canal, when finished, the officers of the 



SYNOPSIS OF ITS TRO VISIONS. 2*15 

Government and its employees, when required to do so, free 
of charge. 

6th. The Canal to be open to the vessels of all nations, 
subject only to certain fixed and uniform rates of toll, to be 
established by the Company, with the sanction of the State, 
graduated to induce the largest and most extended business 
by this route ; these rates not to be altered without six months 
previous notice, both in Nicaragua and the United States. 

•rth. The Contract, and the rights and privileges conceded 
by it, to be held inalienably by the individuals composing the 
Company 

8th. All disputes to be settled by referees or commissioners 
to be appointed in a specified manner 

9th. All machinery and other articles introduced into the 
State for the use of the Company, to enter free of duty ; and 
all persons in its employ to enjoy all the privileges of citizens, 
without being subjected to taxation or military service. 

10th. The State concedes to the Company, for purposes 
of colonization, eight sections of land on the line of the Canal 
in the valley of the River San Juan, each six miles square, and 
at least three miles apart ; with the right of alienating the same, 
under certain reservations ; all settlers on these lands to be 
subject to the laws of the country, being, however, exempt for 
ten years from all taxes, and also from all public service, as 
soon as each colony shall contain fifty settlers. 



2Y6 NICARAGUA. 

lltli. It is expressly stipulated, that the citizens, vessels, 
products, and manufactures of all nations shall be permitted to 
pass upon the proposed Canal through the territories of Nicar- 
agua subject to no other, nor higher duties, charges, or taxes 
than shall be imposed upon those of the United States ; pro- 
vided always that such nations shall first enter into the same 
treaty-stipulations and guarantees, respecting said Canal, as 
may be entered into between the State of Nicaragua and the 
United States. 

Such are the provisions of the Charter, and as we now tread 
upon the threshold of new and thickening events, let us 
cautiously survey them, ere the fogs of bigotry and clouds 
of dissension have arisen to dim the horizon. 

The acquisition of California in 1848 by the United States, 
the disclosure of its vast mineral wealth, its consequent politi- 
cal organization, and social development, precipitated upon the 
world the solution of a communication across the Isthmus, and 
such a passage, however desirable to other nations, became 
doubly so to the United States, for the purposes of commerce 
and defense. With our sympathies, we had extended the 
Spanish American States favorable commercial treaties. 

In 1823, was announced the postulate of President Monroe. 
. — " The American Continents, by the free and independent 
condition which they have assumed and maintained, are hence- 
forth not to be considered subjects for further colonization by 



THE THREE RIVAL ROUTES. 2t7 

any European power." The United States decli«efl to interfere 
in the political affairs of the Spanish States, though frequently 
invoked to do so. Dawn was breaking in this benighted region, 
and new life, with young, and healthy blood was about being 
infused into the decrepit Asiatic branches, who, though richer, 
and more imperial, had been outstripped in the race. The 
Isthmus was about to be opened ; the youngest family on 
this Continent had assumed a position where its voice com- 
manded, and its skill directed the noble enterprise. 

Three routes, each rivals for preferment, presented themselves ; 
the Tehuantepec, in Mexico — the subject before us, the Tran- 
sit in Nicaragua — and the Chagres Route, in New G-ranada. 
The United States essayed to open them all. The Charter 
^alluded to in our chapter, proposes, in Section Eleventh thereof, 
equal terms to all nations who should enter, of course, into the 
same stipulations and guarantees as should be agreed upon by 
the United States and Nicaragua. Still did we hesitate, owing, 
probably to the presence and intervention of Great Britain in 
Central America. 

During Spain's dominion on the Continents, she excluded 
foreign powers from commercial intercourse with her colonies. 
Between them and those of the British, contraband trade grew 
up, wars ensued, and when peace was declared, Great Britain 
possessed two settlements : the Belize or British Honduras, in ; 
the department of Yucatan, and the Mosquito Coast in Nica- 



278 NICARAGUA. 

ragua — their title to both, disputed by the Central American 
States. The Agent of Great Britain announced to Honduras 
and Nicaragua the determination of England to sustain her 
protectorate on the Mosquito Coast, (September 10, 184'!,) 
from Cape Honduras to, and including the lower part of the 
Rio San Juan. (Vide Ex. Doc. 15, p. 44, Vol. X, 1st Bess. 
31st Gong.) 

Subsequently, on the 8th of February, 1848, two English 
ships of war arrived at San Juan del ISforte, or Greytown, 
expelled the State officers of Nicaragua therefrom, and 
four days afterward proceeding up the Rio San Juan, took 
the fort at Serapaqui, after a determined resistance on the 
part of Nicaragua, the latter having succumbed under pro- 
test, on the 17th of March, 1848. In October, 1849, an 
English man-of-war captured Tigre Island, belonging ta 
Nicaragua, off the Pacific coast, together with the Island of 
Ruatan or Roatan, belonging to Honduras, commanding 
an unexcelled position for protecting or molesting every 
passage between the oceans. Capable of being admirably 
fortified at a small expense, it invited the rapacity of her 
English foe. Costa Rica, the late ally of Nicaragua, disputed 
with the latter the boundary of the Rio San Juan, and claim- 
ing the southern portion of Lake Nicaragua, seemed, in this 
struggle, to favor Great Britain. Honduras and Nicaragua 
implored the aid of the United States. 



THE CLAYTON AND BULWER TREATY MOOTED. 2*79 

Under these circumstances, the Clayton and Bulwer Treaty- 
was mooted between Lord Palmerston, Prime Minister of 
Great Britain, and Mr. Rives, American Minister to France, 
in an interview held in London, September 24th, 1850, 
the latter, being en route to the French court ; it was ratified 
July 4th, 1850, but took effect from its date, April 9th, 
1850. The interview alluded to we embrace here, as we 
propose submitting the complete data, which has never been 
fully understood by the country at large, and no doubt will 
prove interesting. 

Mr. Rives stated to Lord Palmerston that "the British 
Consul in N^ew York had publicly claimed for the Mosquito.. 
Indians sovereignty and ownership of the mouth and lower 
part of the Rio San Juan ; that the United States had now 
become a party to the question in their own right by virtue 
of the contract by which Mcaragua had granted to American 
citizens, the right to construct an inter-oceanic Canal by the 
way of the River San Juan and Lake ISFicaragua ; that the 
United States, on examination, were satisfied, as well on legal 
as on geographical grounds, that the State of Nicaragua was 
the Territorial Sovereign of the River and Lake, and that 
they had already concluded, or were about concluding, a 
Treaty with that State for securing a passage ; that the United 
States, however, sought no exclusive privilege, and sincerely 
wished to see the passage dedicated to the use of all nations, 



280 NICARAGUA. 

on the most liberal terms, and on a footing of perfect equality 
for all ; that even if they could, they would not obtain any 
exclusive right or privilege, and so, on the other hand, they 
would not consent to see so important a communication fall 
under the exclusive control of any other great commercial 
power; that the Mosquito Coast at the mouth of the San 
Juan could be considered in no other light than as British 
Possession ; and he proposed that Great Britain and the 
United States should come to a frank understanding with 
each other, and unite to carry the undertaking into effect, as 
one of the highest importance to themselves and the rest of 
the world." 

Lord Palmerston replied, that " from an early period the 
Mosquito Indians had been treated by the British Govern- 
ment as a separate and independent State ; had a kicg ; that 
Nicaragua having never before been in possession of San 
Juan, had taken possession of that town, and that England 
had dispossessed her of it ; that the Nicaraguans had, in bad 
faith, granted to American citizens a right to open the pro- 
posed passage through a territory of which she was not in 
possession ; and that the English Government had therefore 
given notice to those grantees of its (England's) intention 
to regard the contract as a void one." 

Moreover, he added, " a suspicion seemed to be entertained 
by some persons in the United States that the English Gov- 



MR. RIVES AND LORD PALxMERSTON. 281 

ernment wished to plant a new colony on the San Juan ; that 
there was not the slightest foundation for that suspicion, as 
Great Britain had already more colonies than she could 
manage ; that as to any idea of her holding exclusive posses- 
sion of the mouth of the Rio San Juan as the key of the con- 
templated inter-oceanic passage, nothing conld be further from 
her mind ; and that, if any plan could be suggested by which 
Great Britain and the Uuited States could unite in promoting, 
by their joint influence and mutual co-operation the opening 
of a great channel by the way of Lake Nicaragua, and de- 
claring it a common highway for the use and benefit of all 
nations, it would receive the most favorable consideration of 
Her Majesty's Government." *(Sen. Doc. 27, p. 18.) 

Mr. Kives reports to Mr. Clayton a conversation between 
himself and Lord Palmerston thus : "1 concluded with saying 
that it resulted from this long course of universal usage and 
conventional practice, that actual possession was in no wise 
necessary to the exercise of a rightful sovereignty on Indian 
territory ; and that, although Indian tribes were possessed of 
some of the attributes of a separate political existence, such 
as that of governing their communities by their own internal 
laws, also of sustaining the relations of peace and war, yet 
it was impossible to recognize in them a complete national 
independence, such as that which was claimed for the Mos- 
quitoes, without subverting the whole fabric of public law 



282 NICARAGUA. • 

belonging to our peculiar position, which had grown up with 
the general concurrence and assent of all the civilized nations 
of Europe." 

To these ^remarks Lord Palmerston replied by saying that 
he '' fully admitted the general doctrine for which we con- 
tended ; that it was the principle on which they conducted 
all their relations with the Indian tribes in Canada^ but that 
the case of the Mosquitoes was sui generis, and stood upon 
its own peculiar circumstances." (/Se?i. Doc. 21, p. 22, Vol. 
Ill U Sess. H2d Cong.) 

The Treaty recites the purpose of the parties, namely : the 
consolidating of amicable relations, but expressing and fixing 
their views and intents mutually in any inter-oceanic Canal 
that may be constructed via the Rio San Juan and either 
of Lakes Nicaragua or Managua, or both. The cardinal 
points of said Treaty I annex. 

Article 1. Neither party will ever obtain or maintain for 
itself any exclusive control over the contemplated Canal. 

Neither v.dll ever erect or maintain any fortification com- 
manding the same, or the vicinity thereof. 

Neither will occupy, or fortify, or colonize, or assume, or 
exercise any dominion over Nicaragua, Costa Rica, the Mos- 
quito Coast, or any part of Central America. 

Neither will use any protection which either affords, or may 
afford, to either alliance, which either has, or may have, to or 



CARDINAL POINTS OP THE TREATY. 283 

with any State or people, for the purpose of erecting or msiin- 
taining any such fortifications, or of occupying or colonizing 
Nicaragua, Costa Rica, the Mosquito Coast, or any part of 
Central America, or of assuming or exercising any dominion 
over the same. 

Neither will take advantage of any intimacy, or use any 
alliance, connection, or influence that either may possess with 
any State or people, through whose territory the Canal may 
pass, for the purpose of acquiring or holding, directly or in- 
directly, for its own citizens or subjects, any unequal rights, 
or advantages of commerce or navigation. Again, in 

Article 4. The parties will use their influence with any 
State or States, or Governments possessing or claiming juris- 
diction or right over the territory through which the Canal 
shall pass, to induce them to favor its construction, and to 
use their good ofiSces, whenever or however* it may be most 
expedient, to procure the establishment of two free ports, one 
at each end of the Canal. In 

Article 6. The parties engage to invite every State in 
friendly intercourse with both or either of them, to enter into 
stipulations similar to those contained in the Treaty, so that 
all other States may share in the honor and advantages of 
having contributed to the construction of the contemplated 
Canal. And each of the contracting parties shall enter into 
treaty-stipulations with such of the Central American States 



284 NICARAGUA. 

as they may deem advisable, for the purpose of carrying out the 
object of the Treaty — namely, the construction and maintenance 
of the Canal, as a Ship Canal between the two Oceans, for 
the benefit of mankind. In 

Article t. The parties determine to give their support and 
encouragement to the persons or Company who shall first offer 
to build the Canal with the necessary capital and the consent 
of the local authorities, and to any such Company, already ex- 
isting, as may have a contract which is justly unobjectionable 
to the parties. 

Article 8. The parties declare that, besides the particular 
purpose of the Treaty before stated, they have the further and 
broader object, to establish a general principle ; and so they 
agree to extend their protection, by treaty-stipulations, to any 
other practicable communications, whether by canal or rail- 
way, across the Isthmus, and especially to those contemplated 
to be made by the ways of Tehuantepec and Panama. 

Such is the " Clayton and Bulwer Treaty," ample in design, 
simple in construction, and generous in spirit. Yet there was 
no necessity for it, for already on the 23d of September, 1849, 
simultaneously with the sealing of the Charter of the Canal 
Company, was a Treaty of Commerce and Friendship nego- 
tiated with the Government of Nicaragua, and ratified unani- 
mously by the Legislative Chambers. It was forwarded to 
the United States, where it received the commendations of the 



STIPULATIONS IN THE TREATY OF COMMERCE. 285 

President (Gen. Taylor) and Cabinet, but owing to the pro- 
tracted debate on the Slavery question, it did not receive im- 
mediate attention. 

I shall here add the second and third stipulations of the 
Treaty of Commerce, which prove the utter waste of powder iu 
the negotiation of the much-abused " Clayton and Bulwer." 

Section 1st is purely commercial in its character. 

Section 2. And inasmuch as a Contract was entered into 
on the 2tth day of August, 1849, between the Republic of 
Nicaragua and a Company of Citizens of the United States, 
styled " The American Atlantic and Pacific Ship-Canal Com- 
pany," and in order to secure the construction and permanence 
of the great work thereby contemplated, both high contracting 
parties do severally and jointly agree to protect and defend 
the above-named Company in the full and perfect enjoyment 
of said work, from its inception to its completion, and after its 
completion, from any acts of invasion, forfeiture, or violence 
from whatever quarter the same may proceed ; and to give full 
effect to the stipulations here made, and to secure for the 
benefit of mankind the uninterrupted advantages of such com- 
munication from sea to sea, the United States distinctly recog- 
nizes the rights of sovereignty and property which the State 
of Nicaragua possesses in and over the line of said Canal, and 
for the same reason guaranties positively and efficaciously the 
entire neutrality of the same, so long as it shall remain under 



286 NICARAGUA. - ■ , > 

I- 

the control of citizens of the United States, and so long as the 
United States shall enjoy the privileges secured to them in 
the preceding section of this Article. 

Section 3. Bat if by any contingency, the above-named 
"American Atlantic and Pacific Ship-Canal Company" shall 
fail to comply with the terms of their Contract with the State 
of Nicaragua, all the rights and privileges which said Con- 
tract confers, shall accrue to any Company of Citizens of the 
United States which shall, within one year after the official 
declaration of failure, undertake to comply with its provisions, 
so far as the same may at that time be applicable, provided 
the Company thus assuming said Contract shall first present 
to the President and Secretary of State of the United States 
satisfactory assurances of their intention and ability to comply 
with the same ; of which satisfactory assurances-, the signature 
of the Secretary of State, and the seal of the Department shall 
be complete evidence. 

Section 4. And it is also agreed, on the part of the Ke- 
public of ]Sri.caragua, that none of the rights, privileges,' and 
immunities guarantied, and by the preceding Articles, but 
especially by the first section of this Article, conceded to the 
United States and its citizens, shall accrue to any other nation, 
or to its citizens, except such nation shall first enter into the 
same treaty-stipulations, for the defense and protection of the 
proposed great inter-oceauic Canal, which have been entered 



THE NICARAGUA TRANSIT. 281 

into by the United States, in terms the same with those em- 
braced in Section Second of this Article. 
, It will be seen by a comparison, that the spirit, intent, and 
conception even of both Treaties are similar. Why, therefore, 
a new compact ? Great Britain, by subscribing to Section 
Fourth, shared all the advantages to be enjoyed by the United 
States. There was a non-desire at this early date to forego 
her colonies, and her cherished hopes of "an hereafter" in our 
midst, as I shall prove as we proceed. 

Subsequent to the consummation of the last-named Treaties, 
the Canal Company experiencing difficulties in properly 
arranging the details of their proposed work, procured a 
separation of the privilege of exclusive steam-navigation in the 
interior waters (which amounted to Lake Nicaragua solely), 
from the remainder of the original Charter, and secured and 
established the monopoly of Transit across from Greytown to 
San Juan del Sur. This is known as the "Nicaragua 
Transit." 

War having occurred in the interior, and there being two 
distinct Governments, one at Leon, sustained by the Bishop 
and General Munoz, and the other at Granada, supported by 
Gen. Chamorro, the question, if at all admissible, was not at 
least debatable, " which of the two to choose ?" as both 
claimed precedence and authority. Joseph L. White, Esq. 
Agent for the Canal Company, in a mode entirely sui generis, 



288 NICARAGUA. 

succeeded in negotiating the desired separation. The Leonese 
Government, however, entered its protest as follows ; 

" The Provisonal Supreme Government will see with satis- 
faction the interests of the aforesaid Company arrayed in 
harmony with those of this State when it shall have re- 
covered its internal peace, and when its Government is 
qualified to enter upon affairs of this kind ; but any nego- 
tiations concluded in the meantime are not authorized by it, 
nor will they be recognized as legal and subsisting." 

The President of the State, (Pineda) having been shortly 
after this, gagged and blindfolded in Leon, by some of his 
ardent admirers (in the very house too, subsequently occupied 
by our Minister, Mr. Kerr of Maryland), and placed on a 
mule and trotted off to Chinandega, was subsequently per- 
mitted to leave for Granada, via Kealejo and San Juan 
del Sur. 

The Transit went into active operation, and the frequent 
charges from, and discharges of imported Champagne, never 
suffered either of the Governments to be sufficiently qualified 
to enter into the equality or inequality of the Contract or 
Charter, as subsequently amended. One fact, however, is 
apparent. The Canal is not in existence, and the Transit has 
been successful. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

RIVAS REVOKES THE TRANSIT COMPANY'S CHARTER — WHAT NICARAGUA CLAIMS 
IN THE MATTER — THE REPLY THERETO — "WHAT THE UNITED STATES AND 
NICARAGUA AGREED TO DO — WHAT RIVAS DID AND THE REMEDIES THERE- 
FOR — THE CASS AND YRISARRI TREATY — WHAT PRESIDENT BUCHANAN SAYS 
WANTS AN ARMED FORCE TO PROTECT THE TRANSIT — WHAT THE POST- 
MASTER-GENERAL SAYS — IMPORTANCE TO FOREIGN RESIDENTS OP KEEPING 
THE ROUTE OPEN — MONSIEUR BELLY NEGOTIATES FOR A ROUTE — REMARKS 
OP THE FRENCH PRESS THEREON — CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS, BARON HUMBOLDT, 
AND LOUIS NAPOLEON ON INTER-OCEANIC COMMUNICATIONS — OVERLAND ROUTE 
—GEN. CASS ON THE INTERVENTION OP FOREIGN POWERS — THE POLICY OF 
THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. 

In August, 1852, the Accessory Transit Company made 
its first inter-oceanic trip over the Nicaraguan route, and 
continued in successful operation until February 18th, 1856 ; 
then it was suddenly closed, and the Grrant and Charter of 
the Company were arbitrarily revoked by the Government of 
Kivas. It will be remembered that at this period General 
1[) f280) 



290 ' NICARAGUA. 

Walker was Chief of the forces of the State. Prior to this, in 
1854, serious disputes had arisen between Nicaragua and the 
Company concerning the settlement of accounts, and even at 
that date the interruption of the Transit was threatened. The 
United States, desirous of harmonizing all the existing difiB- 
culties, interposed in vain. 

From the date of the discontinuance of the Transit, the 
route has been closed, greatly to the prejudice of the 
United States. Nicaragua contends that the Charter is void, 
inasmuch as the Company did not complete the necessary 
surveys in the time specified in the Grant. This is one of 
the chief allegations. In reply, by referring to Section 3d of 
said Charter, we find : " The Grant is for the period of eighty- 
five years from the completion of the work ; the preliminary 
surveys to be commenced within twelve months." Surveys 
were duly made by the Company. The time for the com- 
pletion of the work, according to the section already referred 
to, was "within twelve years, unless unfoi'eseen events, such as 
earthquakes or wars, shall intervene to prevent it." Hence, 
upon this allegation, Nicaragua fails to sustain her action. 

In the Treaty of Commerce and Friendship, negotiated on 
the 23d of September, 1849, we shall perceive that Nicaragua 
and the United States ''do severally and jointly agree to pro- 
tect and defend the Company in the full and perfect enjoy- 
ment of said work from its inception to its completion, from 



THE CASS AND YRISARRI TREATY. 291 

any acts of invasion, forfeiture, or violence, from whatever 
quarter the same may proceed." 

If the Rivas Government was an unlawful one, since the 
Company's Charter was forfeited by it, and the route sum- 
marily closed, why has not the subsequent Government re- 
instated the Company ? If damages have been sustained by 
the latter, by reference to the eighth section of the original 
Charter, we find : " All disputes to be settled by referees or 
commissioners, to be appointed in a specified manner." Until 
Nicaragua shall have adhered to her stipulations, the Company 
have complaints to urge and justice to demand ; and should 
that State refuse to acknowledge the validity of its claims, 
the United States, being a party to the Treaty of Commerce 
and Friendship, should receive the petition of the claimants. 

On the 16th day of JSTovember, 185Y, a treaty was signed 
by Secretary Cass and Seiior Yrisarri, Minister of Nicaragua, 
under the stipulations of which the use and protection of the 
Transit Route would have been secured, not only to the 
United States, but equally to all other nations. But by refer- 
ence to all the Treaties and Charters herewith connected, the 
neutrality of the route was stipulated for on terms of equality 
to all other countries. This latter treaty contained a pro- 
vision authorizing the United States to employ force to keep 
the route open, in case Nicaragua should fail to perform her 
duty in this respect. This was the principal objection, and 



292 NICARAGUA. 

this clause being insisted upon by the United States, the 
Treaty has, as yet, failed to receive the ratification of the 
Nicaraguan Government. President Buchanan, in his Mes- 
sage of December 8th, 1858, in relation to Central America, 
says: 

*' The political condition of the narrow Isthmus of Central 
America, through which transit routes pass between the At- 
lantic and Pacific Oceans, presents a subject of deep interest 
to all commercial nations. It is over these Transits that a 
large proportion of the trade and travel between the European 
and Asiatic continents is destined to pass. To the United 
States these routes are of incalculable importance, as a means 
of communication between their Atlantic and Pacific posses- 
sions. The latter now extends throughout seventeen degrees 
of latitude on the Pacific coast, embracing the important 
State of California, and the flourishing Territories of Oregon 
and Washington. 

" All commercial nations, therefore, have a deep and direct 
interest that these communications shall be rendered secure 
from interruption. If an arm of the sea, connecting the two 
oceans, penetrated through jSTicaragua and Costa Rica, it 
could not be pretended that these States would have the right 
to arrest or retard its navigation to the injury of other nations. 
The Transit by land over this narrow Isthmus occupies nearly 
the same position. It is a highway in which they themselves 



■VVIIAT PEESIDENT BUCHANAN SAYS. 2i);> 

have little interest when compared with the vast interests of 
the rest of the world. 

" Whilst their rights of sovereignty ought to be respected, 
it is the duty of other nations to require that this important 
passage shall not be interrupted by the civil wars and revolu- 
tionary outbreaks which have so frequently occurred in that 
region. The stake is too important to be left to the mercies 
of rival Companies, claiming to hold conflicting contracts with 
Nicaragua. The commerce of other nations is not to stand 
still and await the adjustment of such petty controversies. 
The Government of the United States expects no more than 
this, and it will not be satisfied with less. It would not, 
if it could, derive any advantage from the Nicaragua transit 
not common to the rest of the world. 

"Its neutrality and protection for the common use of 
all nations is her only object. She has no objection for 
Nicaragua to demand and receive a fair compensation from 
the companies and individuals who may traverse the route ; 
but she insists that it shall never hereafter be closed by an 
arbitrary decree of that Government. If disputes arise be- 
tween it and those with whom they may have entered into 
contracts, these must be adjusted by some fair tribunal pro- 
vided for the purpose, and the route must not be closed pend- 
ing the controversy. This is our whole policy, and it cannot 
fail to be acceptable to other nations. 



294 . NICARAGUA. 

" All these difficulties might be avoided if, consistently with 
the good faith of Nicaragua, the use of this Transit could be 
thrown open to general competition, providing at the same 
time for the payment of a reasonable rate to the Nicaraguau 
Government on passengers and freight." 

And again: "A Treaty was signed on the 16th day of 
November, IBS'!, by the Secretary of State and the Minister 
of Nicaragua, under the stipulations of which the use and pro- 
tection of the Transit route would have been secured, not only 
to the United States, but equally to all other nations. How 
and on what pretexts this Treaty has failed to receive the 
ratification of the Nicaraguan Government, will appear by the 
papers herewith communicated from the State Department. 
The principal objection seems to have been to the provision 
authorizing the "United States to employ force to k^p the 
route open, in case Nicaragua should fail to perform her duty 
in this respect. 

" From the feebleness of that Republic, its frequent changes 
of government, and its constant internal dissensions, this had 
become a most important stipulation and one essentially neces- 
sary, not only for the security of the route, but for the safety 
of American citizens passing and repassing to and from our 
Pacific possessions. Were such a stipulation embraced in a 
Treaty between the United States and Nicaragua, the knowl- 
edge of this fact would of itself, most probably, prevent hostile 



WANTS TO PROTECT THE TRANSIT BY AN ARMED FORCE. 295 

parties from committing aggressions on the ronte, and render 
our actual interference for its protection unnecessary. 

" The Executive Government of this country, in its intercourse 
with foreign nations, is limited to the employment of diplo- 
macy alone. When this fails, it can proceed no further. It 
cannot legitimately resort to force without the direct authority 
of Congress, except in resisting and repelling hostile attacks. 
It would have no authority to enter the territories of Nicar- 
agua, even to prevent the destruction of the Transit, and pro- 
tect the lives and property of our own citizens on their passage. 
It is true, that on a sudden emergency of this character, the 
President would direct any armed force in the vicinity to 
march to their relief; but in doing this he would act upon his 
own responsibility. 

" Under these circumstances, I earnestly recommend to Con- 
gress the passage of an Act authorizing the President, under 
such restrictions as they may deem proper, to employ the land 
and naval forces of the United States in preventing the Transit 
from being obstructed or closed by lawless violence, and in 
protecting the lives and property of American citizens travel- 
ing thereupon, requiring at the same time that these forces 
shall be withdrawn the moment the danger shall have passed 
away. Without such a provision, our citizens will be con- 
stantly exposed to interruption in their progress, and to lawless 
violence." 



296 NICARAGUA. 

On the- subject of ocean and foreign mail service, the Post- 
master-General, among other things, says " By the time the 
contract for the California line, via Panama and Tehuantepee, 
expires, October 1st, 1859, it is probable that the route by 
Lake Nicaragua will have been reopened and in successful 
operation. This presents the question whether one, two, or 
three of these routes shall thereafter be employed for mail pur- 
poses. The Tehuantepee route is the shortest and most readily 
protected against interruptions, but it will be comparatively 
too new, and the line of stages too long, to furnish with cer- 
tainty adequate and satisfactory communication between our 
Atlantic and Pacific possessions. 

" While it is destined, no doubt, to become a Transit of the 
first importance, and will deserve the highest patronage and 
encouragement, still it cannot supersede the necessity of one 
or more routes through Central America. It is of the highest 
importance that the route by Nicaragua should be reopened, 
and its undisturbed use for the transportation of the mails, 
passengers, troops and munitions of war secured by the solemn 
guarantee of a public Treaty. Without this, in view of the 
unstable condition of the local Governments of Central 
America, the safety and security of transportation can hardly 
be relied on." 

We need not expatiate upon the tenets embraced in the 
President's Message. The importance of the demands therein 



IMrOllTANCE OF KEEPING THE TRANSIT OPEN. 297 

contained speak for themselves. If, as has been fully tested 
already, Nicaragua is incapable of protecting the Transit 
Route, and thereby preventing it from being at any time sum- 
marily closed, it is proper that the United States should, in com- 
mon with all other nations, see that its neutrality be preserved. 

At Leon, Granada, Managua, Masaya, and Rivas in the in- 
terior of the State, many Americans, as also other foreigners, 
have located ; at Realejo and San Juan del Sur on the Pacific, 
at Yirgin Bay on the Lake, and at San Juan del Norte or 
Greytown on the Atlantic side, numbers of our citizens have 
embarked their fortunes in mercantile pursuits. As merchants, 
trading to and from the United States and Europe, they must 
be deeply and vitally interested in the opening of the Transit. 
Why should they be compelled to suffer damage, and even 
ntter bankruptcy, if Nicaragua possesses the power to keep 
the route open ? Claims for losses through the neglect of 
Nicaragua might be sustained, if the State admits her 
efficiency, yet fails to interpose her strong ,arm. The truth 
is, she is weak, her Governments are spasmodic, meteoric, and 
Mr. Buchanan has but demanded that, which will find an echo 
in the heart of every American that throbs on Nicaraguan 
soil. 

At a later period. Monsieur Belly, from France, negotiated 
a Charter for a canal through Nicaragua, which has been the 
cause of much controversy in this country and Europe. If 



298 NICARAGUA. 

the Charter granted to the American Atlantic and Pacific 
Ship Canal Company is in force, then M. Belly and his asso- 
ciates must survey a new route altogether. 

The Paris Press publishes the full correspondence which 
took place between the United States Minister to N'icaragua, 
and the Foreign Minister of Nicaragua, touching M. Belly's 
Conventions. The former says that no arrangement with 
M. Belly shall be recognized or assented to in any thing con- 
trary to the just rights acquired by American citizens, and 
that a liberal policy, resulting from the Transit Treaty of 
November last, shall be constantly maintained. 

The Nicaraguan Minister replies that his Government 
wishes only for justice and its rights, and desires to maintain 
friendly relations with the "United States ; but declares that the 
Transit Treaties are of no value, because the route was not 
opened at the stipulated period. M. Belly had appealed to 
the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty for protection, and Lord Malmes- 
bury's letter to him says that the stipulations thereof will, in 
bis own opinion, apply to his scheme, if carried out. 

The Courier de Paris gives an account of M. Belly's plan 
for opening a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific 
Oceans, by means of a canal through the Isthmus of Panama. 
This project is one which Englishmen often read of in New 
York papers, where it is seldom mentioned without angry 
depreciation, although few, perhaps, could state its features 



THE COURIER DE PARIS AND M. BELLY'S PROJECT. 299 

off-hand. M. Belly, who some short time back obtained a con- 
cession of the ground required for the undertaking, has lately 
published a pamphlet in which he sets forth the advantages 
of the enterprise, and shows by maps the line of country 
through which the proposed canal is to pass. The Courier 
de Paris, in remarking on the project, adds some explanations 
which are of interest. It says : 

" The first name which we meet with in examining the 
history of the project is that of Baron de Humboldt, who, 
after having examined in Central America the positions best 
adapted for the junction of the two coasts, gave the preference 
to the basin of Nicaragua. His ' Historical Essay on New 
Spain,' in which his opinion was expressed, was published 
in 1804. 

" After that of the patriarch of modern science, we find the 
name of the prince who was destined to be Emperor of the 
French. Prince Louis Napoleon, during his stay at Ham, 
occupied himself with the grand idea of cutting through 
Isthmusses, and more particularly that of Panama. Like 
M. de Humboldt, he saw that Nature had taken care to 
indicate to the industry of man the line of communication to 
be established between the two seas, by the depression of the 
chain of the Cordilleras, and by the existence of lakes and of 
the river of San Juan de Nicaragua. 

" A small work on the subject, by the Prince, was printed at 



300 NICARAGUA. 

London, in 1846, but only a very few copies of it were struck 
off. It was, however, republished in 1849 by the Revue 
Britaunique. It is reproduced by M. Belly in the volume, 
' Fercement de Plsthme de Panama,' which he has just pub- 
lished, and which, in addition to an account of the project, 
contains all the documents relative to the great question. 

" The project of M, Belly only differs from that of the Prince 
in not making use of the whole of the Nicaragua, and in 
crossing the Lake in its narrowest part. His plan necessitates 
a cutting in the ridge which separates the Lake from the sea. 
But the line would thus be almost straight, and the distance 
would be considerably shortened, as it would be seventy 
leagues at the outside, whilst in the plan of the Prince, it is 
one hundred and twenty. Such is then the result. By a 
passage of seventy leagues, vessels going from Europe, or 
from jSTew York, to California, or to the seas of China and 
Japan, would be saved all the circumnavigation of South 
America. 

"Let us add that the canal, of a depth of eight metres, 
(twenty-six feet), at a minimum, would admit the largest 
vessels, and that the total expense is estimated at one hun- 
dred and twenty million francs, whilst the annual revenues, 
according to the estimates of the authors of the preliminary 
project, would not be less than fifty million francs. And if 
we consider that the territory passed through is admirably 



POLITICAL BASIS OF M. BELLY'S TROJECT. 301 

fertile, and that M. Belly, in addition to the privilege of the 
canal, has obtained a concession of the complete proprietor- 
ship of the lands on both banks, to the width of four kilo- 
metres, (two-and-a-half miles,) we shall see the full mercan- 
tile value of an enterprise which is really of the very greatest 
value." 

It then adverts to the political bearing of the proposed 
plan, and shows that the intention is to place the canal of 
Nicaragua under the general protection of the great powers, 
England and the United States setting the example. 

" As to the political basis of the enterprise, they are those 
which are laid down in the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty. This 
Treaty, which was signed in 1850, binds England and the 
United States with regard to the inter-oceanic communication. 
According to it the two powers mutually undertake to employ 
all their efforts for the opening of a canal between the Atlantic 
and Pacific Oceans, by way of the Kiver San Juan and the 
Lake of Nicaragua, to protect the Company which may be 
formed for the construction and navigation of the said canal, 
and to guarantee the neutrality of it. 

"They oblige themselves, besides, to form no establishment 
calculated to menace the independence of the States of Central 
America, and to oppose any external attempt calculated to 
encroach on that independence, and they renounce in advance 
all advantages which may be accorded to their subjects to the 



302 NICARAGUA. 

prejudice of those of other States. Lastly, the Treaty says 
that other powers shall be called on to sign it, in order to 
cover with a common protection an enterorise destined to be 
for the interest of all. 

" Such is the spirit of the treaty which gave rise to the Con- 
vention of K-ivas. This Convention, which was signed on 
the 1st of May, 1848, between the Presidents of Costa Rica 
and Nicaragua and M. Belly, confers on the latter the privi- 
lege of constructing and navigating the canal ; it consequently 
only accomplishes what the two Governments which signed 
the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty wished for. 

"In realizing the enterprise dreamed of by Christopher 
Columbus, indicated by M. de Humboldt, and traced out by 
Prince Louis IN'apoleon, the Convention of Rivas completes 
the system of oceanic circulation, prepares the international 
fusion of races, and makes the liberty of the seas a reality. 
The cutting through the Isthmus of Panama, like that of the 
Isthmus of Suez, is neither French, nor English, nor American, 
and does not constitute either privilege or preponderance for 
any nation. France, in both undertakings, desires no other 
advantage than the honor of being able to say that two of her 
children have originated these great works." 

There is little to be apprehended from this array of new 
influence on the Isthmus. That a canal is practicable from the 
mouth of the Pvio San Juan to Lake Nicaragua, I do not 



WHAT THE ENQLTSII AND FRENCH JOURNALS SAY. 303 

believe, save at an enormous expense. A railwa}^ could be aa 
easily constructed along the banks of the river. Once trade 
and travel sought the water — canals were dividend-paying 
enterprises. Now, the route for the traveler and for goods 
of value is overland. A Canal Company will fail here — they 
will reap losses, and their employees will die in the morasses 
after two months' exposure in this wild luxuriance of decay- 
ing and decayed vegetation. 

The English and French journals frequently enlighten their 
readers upon the designs of the American Government in 
respect to Central America. In their view, the Government 
of the United States is' seeking exclusive possession of the 
routes across the Isthmus, both for commercial and political 
ends. We are warned against our ambitious projects, and are 
told that England and France will not allow their commerce 
to be shut out from a free pass across the American continent. 

We hope that the President's explicit declaration in his 
recent Message, that the United States " would not, if they 
could, derive any advantage from the Nicaraguan route not 
common to the rest of the world," will be sufficient to satisfy 
these European journals of their error. General Cass' letter 
to Mr. Lamar, upon the same point, says : " The United States 
do not seek either the control, or the exclusive use of these 
routes ; they desire that the advantages should be equally 
common to all nations." 

It is very plain, ^rom these declarations, that the United 



304 NICARAGUA. 

States are seeking no exclusive advantages, in the settlement 
of the Central American question, but that the purpose is to 
open the routes across the Isthmus to the commerce and travel 
of all nations. While making these declarations regarding the 
intentions of the United States, General Cass is equally 
explicit in respect to the intervention of European powers, in 
any other way than by joining to secure the freedom of these 
routes, and to " make them neutral highways of the world, not 
to be disturbed by the operations of war." Dwelling upon this 
subject, he says : 

" But the establishment of a political protectorate by any 
one of the powers of Europe, over any of the Independent 
States of this continent, or, in other words, the introduction of 
a scheme of policy which would carry with it a right to interfere 
in their concerns, is a measure to which the United States have 
long since avowed their opposition, and which, should the 
attempt be made, they will resist by all the means in their 
power. 

" The reasons for the attitude they have assumed have been 
promulgated, and are everywhere well known. There is no 
need, upon this occasion, to recapitulate them. They are 
founded on the political circumstances of the American con- 
tinent, which has interests of its own, and ought to have a 
policy of its own, disconnected from many of the questions 
which are continually presenting themselves in Europe con- 
cerning the balance of power, and other subjects of controversy 



POLICY OP THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE. 305 

arising out of the condition of its States, and which often find 
their solution or their postponement in war. 

''It is of paramount importance to the States of this hemi- 
sphere, that they should have no entangling union with the 
powers of the Old World, a connection which would almost 
necessarily make them parties to wars having no interest for 
them, and which would often involve them in hostilities with 
the other American States, contiguous or remote. The years 
which have passed by since this principle of separation was 
first announced by the United States, have served still more to 
satisfy the people of this country of its wisdom, and to fortify 
their resolution to maintain it, happen what may. " 

This is language not easily misunderstood, and language that 
the people of the United States will endorse by their action, 
if circumstances should require it. They want no exclusive 
privileges themselves, nor will they permit any other nation 
to have any. They claim for their citizens no exclusive right 
to form contracts for opening Transit Routes in Nicaragua. M. 
Belly or any one else may make such contracts with the Central 
American Powers. But no contract with him, or any one 
else, can interfere with previously-existing engagements with 
American citizens, and the regulations and conditions of the 
Grant shall be such as to render the routes safe and free to 
all nations, but controlled bv none and upon moderate and 
reasonable terms. 
20 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

A DASH AT POLITICAL HISTORY — EXTENT AND POPULATION OF GUATEMALA — 
HOW IT WAS GOVERNED UNDER SPAIN — HER LIBERALITY AND ITS ABUSE BY 
THE MOTHER COUNTRY — DISCONTENT AND INSURRECTIONS — INDEPENDENCE 
DECLARED — GAINZA CHOSEN PRESIDENT — A GENERAL CONGRESS CALLED — 
CONSTITUTION — SUBDIVISION INTO STATES — POPULATION AND CAPITALS — 
BOUNDARIES OF THE UNITED PROVINCES — THE LEGISLATIVE POWER-ESTATE 
REGULATIONS — NATIONAL FLAG AND ITS DEVICES — THE DREAM OF THE 
CASTILIAN. 

The kingdom of Guatemala was governed by a Captain- 
General, appointed by the mother, Spain, and a Royal Audi- 
encia, with powers to take cognizance over an extent of 
country estimated at twenty-six thousand one hundred and fifty- 
two square leagues, and extending from 8° to 17° North 
latitude, and from 82° to 95° West longitude, with a popula- 
tion of about one million two hundred thousand. It was sub- 
divided into fifteen provinces ; five on , the margin of the 
(306) 



GUATEMALA UNDER SPANISH RULE. 307 

Atlantic, five on the Pacific, and five in the interior, each 
governed by inferior officers subject to the Royal Audiencia. 

An Archbishop and three suffragans had charge of spiritual 
affairs. The ecclesiastical division of the kingdom was com- 
posed of four bishoprics, comprising two hundred and twenty 
curacies, seven hundred and fifty-nine parochial churches, and 
four establishments for the conversion of infidels. Fully im- 
pressed with the prowess and greatness of Spain, and believing 
her to be the mistress of Europe, the military force within her 
limits was indeed meagre, not more than fifty soldiers being 
required for the security of her domain. 

The present century undeceived them relative to the actual 
powers of the mother country, and a new era pregnant with 
important events succeeded the dark years of submission. 
Remote as Spain was, and tyrannical as was her colonial sys- 
tem, its administration here was comparatively mild, and her 
stern, harsh edicts were easily evaded. Patents of nobility 
were purchased by some of the wealthier families, and through 
flatteries they won upon the Yiceroys, whom they in turn ruled 
ad libitum. 

About 1803 and '4 the public purse of Spain was so far 
depleted that a voluntary subscription was required from her 
colonies. Guatemala generously furnished her quota, and yet, 
instead of receiving any favor from the mother country, unjust 
and excessive taxations followed as the recompense for her 



308 NICARAGUA. 

known liberality. Her literary and scientific societies were in- 
. censed and suspended by these glaring and repeated acts of 
despotism and ingratitude, and during the years of 1812, '13, 
and '14, feverish symptoms manifested themselves in many of 
the provinces. 

In 1815 an insurrection occurred in Leon (Nicaragua), but it 
was suppressed, and the leaders of the revolt were sent to Spain. 
From that time to 1819, discontent displayed Itself, secret 
meetings were held, and the masses seemed swayed by a vast 
and almost uncontrollable impulse. The spirit of independence 
which had so long been smouldering, flamed in more than one 
quarter of the new world, and the fate of Mexico was decided 
in 1821. News of this reached Guatemala, and only increased 
the universal fermentation. 

At this juncture Gavino Gainza arrived, appointed by the 
Cortes of Spain, bearing intelligence of the late political 
changes in the peninsula, and the establishment of the Con- 
stitution. Meetings were organized, the leading families, and 
the influential members of the Church assembled, and on the 
15th of September, 1822, the Independence of Guatemala was 
publicly proclaimed. A proclamation was issued, and it was 
resolved to call a General Congress for the 1st of March, 1822. 
In the interim a provisional Government was formed, consist- 
ing of a Council composed of individuals selected from the 
different provinces, of which Gainza was chosen President. 



"WHAT WAS DONE BY THE GENERAL CONGRESS. 309 

However, the union of this Congress was prevented by subse- 
quent events. Iturbide ascended the Mexican throne shortly 
after, and strifes occurring between San Salvador and Guate- 
mala, absolute Governments were formed, thus abrogating all 
ideas of the Union anticipated on Sep. 15, 1821. 

A proclamation was issued on the 29th of March, 1823, re- 
convoking the General Congress, and on the following 24th of 
June, the Constituent Assembly, as it was termed, met. With 
the exception of Chiapa, which was firm in its adherence to 
Mexico — and Nicaragua, which was distracted by internal revo- 
lutions, each State sent deputies to this Congress, though San 
Salvador, having dispatched troops to aid J^icaragua, her 
deputies were not so soon seated. After the nomination of an 
executive, one of its first acts was, "the declaring of these 
provinces independent of Spain, Mexico, and every other 
power, either of the old or new world." This is dated July 
1, 1823. 

The basis of its future Constitution, now that the Congress 
was fully organized, was published Dec. Itth, and Guatemala 
was declared a Federal Kepublic, comprising five States con- 
federated, under the title of the " United Provinces of Central 
America, viz., Guatemala, consisting of thirteen Departments, 
the Capital of which was Guatemala. These Departments 
comprised one hundred and fourteen towns and villages, with 
a population of about seven hundred thousand. San Salvador, 



310 NICARAGUA. 

embracing four Departments, Capital, San Salvador, and com- 
prising fifty-five towns and villages, and a population of about 
three hundred and fifty thousand. Honduras, consisting of 
twelve Departments, Capital, Comayagua, fifty-seven towns 
and villages, with a population of about two hundred thou- 
sand. Nicaragua, consisting of eight Departments, Capital, 
Leon, comprising fifty-three towns and villages, with a popu- 
lation of about two hundred thousand. Costa Rica, consist- 
ing of eight Departments, Capital, San Jose, comprising twenty- 
one towns and villages, with a population computed at fifty 
thousand. 

These States contain about twenty-two thousand square 
leagues, bounded on the north by the Atlantic, south and 
southwest by the Pacific, southeast by Yeraguas, and west 
and northeast by Mexico, comprising about one million five 
hundred thousand inhabitants, and were to be governed on 
the principles of Federal Republicanism. The Legislative 
power was ordained to reside — first, in a Federal Congress, 
and second, in a Senate, composed of two Senators popularly 
elected by each State. The Executive power was vested — 
first, in a President popularly chosen, second, in a Yice- 
President, third, in a Supreme Court of Justice. The in- 
ternal afl'airs of each State to be regulated independently 
upon the following basis : first, by an Assembly of Deputies; 
second, by a Council; third, by a Chief; all to be popularly 



THE DREAM OF THE CASTILIAN. 311 

elected; fourth, by a Yice-Chief; fifth, by a Supreme Court 
of Judicature. 

"Wars and revolutions succeeded, and the Constitutions of 
the different States were decreed as follows : That of Guate- 
mala, October 11th, 1825; San Salvador's, June 12th, 1824; 
Honduras', December 11th, 1825 ; Nicaragua's, April 8th, 
1826; Costa Eica's, November 22d, 1824. In 1824, the 
Republic was decreed under the name of " The Republic of 
Central America," with a national flag, having for its armorial 
devices five volcanoes, and bearing the motto, " Dios, Union, 
Libertad," — God, Union, Liberty. 

We close our brief sketch, and as elsewhere we have given 
the various changes which occurred, we shall now direct at- 
tention to the proposed Ship Canal, and present distinctly in 
outline the progress from the Conquest, with the search after 
the Secret of the Strait, the grand desideratum of the Castilian, 
which he supposed would indeed open to the Crown the gates 
of a Paradise, little less in value than those to be reached by 
years of contrition, penitence, and prayer. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

THE VALE OF ANAHUAC — ORIGIN OE THE MEXICANS — EMIGRATION TO YUCATAN 
AND GUATEMALA — THE CASAS GRANDES — THE SIX TRIBES AND DESERTIOU 
OP THE FIVE — THEIR FORTUNES AND MISFORTUNES — FOUND THE CITY OF 
MEXICO — SACRIFICE A CHIEF'S DAUGHTBR-:-ELECT A KING — HOME IMPROVE- 
MENTS COMMENCED — MONTEZUMA THE ELDER SUCCESSFULLY "WAGES VARIOUS 
WARS — MONTEZUMA THE YOUNGER — COMING OF THE SPANIARDS — GUATE- 
MOZIN AND HIS FATE — CORTES RETURNS TO SPAIN — DIES OF A BROKEN 
HEART — WHAT WAS DONE WITH HIS REMAINS — HIS TITLE AND ESTATES — 

THE BLOOD OF THE MONTEZUMAS IN THE VEINS OP CASTILIAN NOBILITY 

ASSASSINATION OP PIZARRO — HIS TITLE, ESTATES, AND DESCENDANTS — WHAT 
WAS DONE WITH HIS REMAINS — ONE OF HIS FINGERS IN BALTIMORE — THE 
HOLY CROSS AND ITS IRRESISTIBLE ARGUMENTS — MONTEZUMA TO RETURN AB A 
DEITY — EL PARAISO DE MAHOMA AND REFLECTIONS. 

From the Yale of Anahuac, or of Waters, embracing a beau- 
tiful district, the whole country, called subsec^uently by the 
Spaniards New Spain, received the name of Anahuac. It 
has since been given to the dominions of Spain in North 
America, occupying the entire extent of the northern bounda- 



ORIGIN OF THE MEXICANS. 313 

ries to the kingdom of Guatemala, and often embracing that 
territory also. 

The origin of the Mexicans, or the nations of Anahuac, is 
very obscure ; but according to Clavigero, the Toltecas, who 
inhabited the country north of Mexico, left their homes, or 
were banished, and journeyed south in search of a proper 
locality whereon to fix their habitation. For the space of 
one hundred and four years they wandered, till at length 
reaching the Yale of Anahuac, they erected a city fifty miles 
east of the city of Mexico. At Tula they founded the capital 
of a dynasty which lasted three hundred and eighty -four 
years. They appear to have been well skilled in arts, indus- 
trious, civilized, and living under the government of kings in 
a peaceable manner. 

In the year 1052, a dearth and pestilence nearly desolated 
the country, and a great number of their people having died 
of famine, many of those who survived emigrated to Yucatan 
and Gruatemala, leaving but a remnant of this once flourishing 
empire in Tula and Cholula. For one hundred years the 
Toltecan country was nearly deserted. After this interval 
from the North came another race — the Cachemecas — whose 
manners were less refined. The source whence they emigrated 
they called Amaquemecan. They settled about six miles from 
the present city of Mexico, and were governed also by kings, 
who encouraged them to cultivate the friendship of these poor 



314 NICARAGUA. 

Toltecans who survived, and who gratefully taught them in re- 
turn many of the arts. 

This monarchy lasted till 1520, nearly five centuries. Other 
tribes, of which the Otomies and the Acolhuans were the chief, 
entered into alliance with the Cachemecas. Eight years after- 
ward came the Tarascas and the Nahuatlacas. The Aztecas, 
or Mexicans were the last ; they came from a country beyond 
the Grulf of California, in the year 1160, when they moved 
southward, and traces of the buildings they left are said to exist 
on the banks of the Rio Colorado, and the Rio Gila. They 
came from a country called Azatlan. They stopped for a time 
at some point in New Biscay, about 250 miles North North- 
west from Chihuahua, and there built the Casas Grandes, in 
29° North latitude. 

This large edifice is constructed with three floors, and is 
crowned by a terrace ; the lower floor has no door, and the 
upper is accessible only by a ladder, which is still the style in 
which the buildings of New Mexico are constructed. This 
House or Fort has been surrounded by a wall, Humboldt says, 
seven feet thick, and in which enormous stones were used ; the 
beams of pine are said still to exist. In the centre is a keep or 
mound — the whole has a ditch about it, and earthen pots and 
jars, with mirrors of the Iztli stone have been dug up in the 
vicinity. 

When the Aztecs left their native land, they consisted of six 



FORTUNES AND MISFORTUNES OF THE FIVE TRIBES. SI 5 

tribes, namely, the Mexicans, Tepauecas, Clialcese, Tlahuicas, 
Tlascans, and Xochimilcaus. They fashioned the image of 
the Deity Huitzilopochtli, at Culiacan, on a throne, to carry 
on the shoulders of four priests. The five tribes deserted them 
on quitting Culiacan, and journeying with the Deity, arrived at 
Tula, the Capital of which the Toltecans had built, erecting 
altars at all their resting-places on the road. 

Here, and in the neighborhood, they remained for twenty 
years. In 1216, they came to Zumpanco, a large town in the 
Yale of Anahuac, where they were kindly received, and the 
son of the Chief, Ilhuicatl, married one of their women, from 
which alliance descended the race of Mexican Emperors. They 
wandered about the Lake of Tezcuco, settling in different 
places, and at last entered into wars with the Cachemicas and 
Acolhuans, and were obliged to % to some islands called Aco- 
colo, in the Southern part of the Mexican lakes. Here they 
remained for fifty-two years, in great poverty and distress, being 
enslaved by the chief of a petty state called Coluachan. It is 
believed by Clavigero and Humboldt, that the Toltecs, Acol- 
huans, Chichimecas, and Nahuatlacs, spoke the same language, 
and probably emigrated from the same degree of North latitude. 

A few years subsequently, a war ensued between the Xoch- 
imilcaus and the Cholhuans, in which the Mexicans assisted 
their masters, and battled so bravely as to win their freedom. 
The latter, however, treated their captives so brutally, in- 



316 NICARAGUA. 

humanly cutting off their ears, and offering human sacrifices 
to their Deity, that the Chief of the Cholhuans commanded 
them to quit his territory. They moved to a spot near the 
junction of Lakes Chalco and Tezcuco, which place they named 
Mexicaltzinco, and thence they went to Iztacolo, nearer the 
location of the present City of Mexico. 

Here they remained some two years, when, wandering about, 
they discovered on an island in the Lake, an omen foretold by 
their oracles to be their future home. They built some miser- 
able reed huts, and having taken captive a Cholhuan, sacrificed 
him to their Deity, erected an altar, and prepared to fix their 
permanent abode here. To this Island and Town they gave 
the name of Tenochtillan, and subsequently building their huts 
round the altar of Mexitli, their Gfod of war, they called the 
town Mexico, or the City of Mexitli. This took place in 1325. 

The omen referred to, was, finding on a rock in the Lake, 
the " Eagle on the Prickly Pear." Here they dwelt long in a 
wretched manner ; the situation being chosen merely from the 
omen, was uncomfortable, and also small, and finally they were 
necessitated to drive stakes, and to make dykes to the adjacent 
islets, by which means they shut out the water, and connected 
the islets so as to gain considerable space for building. They 
then furnished themselves with necessaries, constructed floating 
gardens on the lake, with mud and branches, and thus struggled 
on through a press of privations for thirteen years, when an 



CHANGE IN THEIR FORM OP GOVERNMENT. Sit 

old quarrel having been resumed, they divided into two cliques ; 
one party remained, while the other sought a neighboring 
island, called by them Tlatelolco, afterward joined to the 
others by mounds. 

The original Mexico was now divided into four quarters, 
and in the centre was the temple of Mexitli or Huitzilopochtli. 
They remained in barbarism for some time, and sacrificed a 
daughter of the Chief of Colhuacan, whom, under a specious 
pretext, they had invited into their city. The outraged father 
waged war against them, but they were equally powerful with 
himself; their Government had been hitherto an aristocracy, 
the nation obeying a council of their Great Chieftain. They 
found now, that a Monarchy was best adapted to their views, 
first, because their neighbors had adopted that form of Govern- 
ment, and second, because their territories consisting only of 
the City, one person was better able to perform the duties of 
the kingly office than several. Acamapitzni was therefore 
selected their King and leader. This Prince married a 
daughter of Acolmiztli, King of Coatlican. 

The Tlatelolcos also chose a king, the son of the King of 
the Tepanecans, who oppressed them much for fifty years, 
thirty-seven of which Acamapitzni governed Mexico. He 
took another wife, and had by her a son, Hiutzilihiutl, and 
by his concubines several children, of whom Izcoatl was the 
most renowned. In this reign, buildings of stone were 



818 NICARAGUA. 

erected, and canals for use, and for the adorning of the city, 
were commenced. He died in 1389, having swayed his 
sceptre with great success. Four months afterward his son 
Hiutzilihiutl succeeded him by the universal choice of the 
people. He had two wives, one, the daughter of the King 
of the Tepanecas, the other also a princess. By them he 
had two sons, the latter bearing him the famous Montezuma 
Ilhuicamina. After a reign of twenty years, he died in 1409, 
and was succeeded by his brother Chimalpopoca, who having 
been thrown into prison by the king of Acolhuacan, committed 
suicide. 

Itzcoatl was the son of Acamapitzni by a slave. Thence 
ensued wars between the neighboring rival kings, especially 
the Tlatelolcans, who were fully equal to the Aztecs. Their 
first king died in 1339. Itzcoatl, on his accession to the 
throne, built temples, made many public improvements, sub- 
dued neighboring provinces, and concluded an alliance with 
the exiled prince of Acolhuacan, whose father had been 
killed, and he the son supplanted by an alien. This Prince 
declared war against the usurper, and took several cities. 
Itzcoatl sent Montezuma to congratulate him. He was taken 
prisoner, but by treachery escaped to Mexico, when Maxtlaton, 
the usurper of the Acolhuacan throne, declared war against 
Mexico on account of the Aztecs allying themselves with the 
exiled Prince Nezahualcajotl. The Aztecs were terrified, and 



MONTEZUMA THE ELDER. 319 

demanded of their king to make peace, but Montezuma urged 
their commencing hostilities. 

War followed : victory sat doubtful on either banner for an 
entire day : but as night approached, Montezuma, with other 
chiefs, rushing to the front, captured, with his own hand, the 
general of the enemy, and completely discomfited them. 
Next day the battle was renewed, when the Tepanecans were 
defeated, and their city taken. Subsequently the entire nation 
was subdued, and became subject to Itzcoatl, who replaced 
Nerahualcajotl upon the throne. The Tepanecan country he 
gave to Totoquihuatzin, with the title of King of Tacuba ; 
these kings formed an alliance offensive and defensive. 
The Xochimilcans, fearing the power of the Aztecs, declared 
war against them, but their strongholds and cities were taken 
by Montezuma, and from a petty group of island huts, 
Mexico, through the address and courage of this Prince 
became the most powerful of all the adjacent States. 

In 1436, at an advanced age, Itzcoatl died, and Montezuma 
succeeded to the throne. He erected an immense temple, 
obtaining the victims to be sacrificed at his coronation from a 
war then waging between the Chalcese and Tezcucans, in 
which the former were defeated. This coronation was the 
most magnificent ever witnessed. 

Probably next to the Aztecs, the most valiant tribe w^ere 
the Tezcucans. Although their province was small, it was 



320 NICARAGUA. 

defended by natural fortifica^ons, high rocky ridges, and 
deep gorges, upon whose sides bristled loose boulders, and 
although in a measure subservient to Mexico, the Tezcucans 
ever evinced their love for their province, and their ability to 
defend it. Bernal Diaz gives a full and glowing account of 
the hardy Tezcucan mountaineers, and the old soldier pays 
them merited tributes. 

The King of Tlatelolco having formed a conspiracy against 
Itzcoatl, and having renewed his designs upon Montezuma, 
the latter deposed him and placed Moquihuix on the throne. 
Many provinces were wrested from their chiefs to adorn the 
coronet of Montezuma. He then engaged in war with the 
King of the Mixtacas, the Huexotzincas, and the Tlascalans, 
and suffered a reverse, though he finally defeated them. 
He conquered also the Cholulans, the Chalcese, and other 
tribes, until his empire stretched from the Gulf of Mexico 
nearly to the Pacific. In 1446, Mexico, having suffered from 
an inundation, he constructed a dyke nine miles long, to pre- 
vent any future calamity arising from the same cause. 

Montezuma died in 1468, and was succeeded by Axaycatl. 
It was under the reign of this Prince that the Provinces of the 
Tlatelolcos were added to those of Mexico, and their king's heart 
(Moquihuix) was torn out by Axaycatl. He also waged suc- 
cessful wars against the Matlatzincas, and died in 141Y. His 
brother Tizoc ascended the throne. He was succeeded by his 



MONTEZUMA THE YOUNGER. 321 

son Cacamatzin, who was afterward captured by the Spaniards. 
Then came Ahuitzotl, his brother, who completed the Great 
Temple commenced by Tizoc. The human sacrifices he offered 
at its dedication, it is said, amounted to seventy thousand. 
This took place in 1486 and 1487, when Mexico was violently 
shaken by an earthquake. This monarch was a warrior from 
his birth. His conquests extended to Guatemala, a distance 
of nine hundred miles from his Capital. The Aztecs, how- 
ever, were defeated in 1416 by the Atlexcans, under their 
Chief, Huexotzincas. 

Ahuitzotl died in 1502. Then succeeded Montezuma the 
Second, called Montezuma Xocotzin, or the Younger, who 
was a Priest, and a Prince of extreme bravery. His corona- 
ation was more magnificent than any of his predecessors, while 
his household retinue was composed solely of people of rank, 
whom he favored particularly, at the expense of the other 
classes. His style of living was most sumptuous, and extrava- 
gance marked his every measure ; he was bigoted — a patron 
of the arts, generous, and swayed his sceptre with dignity, 
though his disposition was extremely haughty and tyrannical. 

At this period, when Montezuma's kingdom had risen to 
unusual splendor, the Spaniards having settled in Cuba and 
Hispaniola, determined to explore the Continent to the West, 
and Yasco Nunez de Balboa, having landed on the Coast, 
descried the Pacific from the summit of the mountains. This 
21 



322 NICARAGUA. 

was in 1513. The empire of the Aztecs at this time extended 
five hundred leagues from East to West, and two hundred from 
North to South. Montezuma died, and was succeeded by his 
brother Quetlaoaca or Cuitlahuitzin, in 1520, who gave evi- 
dence of proving a good king. He prepared to receive the 
Spaniards in his Capital, but in the same year, during the prep- 
arations for the continuance of the war which had been so 
vigorously carried on by his brother, he died of the small-po:^ 
and his nephew Guatimozin occupied the throne. 

The characters of Montezuma and Guatimozin are so well 
known, that it would be idle and useless to dwell upon them 
here. The courage and constancy of the latter during his 
defense of Mexico have been favorite themes of former writers, 
and it is well known that he was captured in a canoe by San- 
doval, one of the officers of Cortes. His address to the latter 
when he appeared a prisoner before him will never be forgot- 
ten. " I have done my duty as a king — sheathe your dagger 
in my body — my life is now useless to myself and my subjects." 

Although a captive, and allowed to remain in the Capital upon 
certain pretexts, Cortes took him with him in an expedition to 
Honduras. During the march thither, one of the Indian con- 
verts in his train, informed Cortes that a consp/iracy had been 
set on foot by his captive-king with the Cacique of Tacuba 
and other nobles, to seize a favorable moment when the army 
should be entangled in the defile or morass, and rise upon the 



GUATIMOZIN AND HIS FATE. 323 

Spaniards. After tlie destruction of the latter, the Indians 
were to march on to Honduras, and cut off the Spanish settlers 
there, then to return to Mexico, effect a general rising of 
the tribes, seize the vessels, and thus exterminate the invaders. 

Cortes immediately arrested Guatimozin and the Aztec 
lords in his train. From the latter he learned the truth of the 
Indian's story, they alleging that the plot had been planned by 
the Prince, but denying their own participation in it. The 
Prince neither denied nor acknowledged the accusation, but 
maintained a dogged and stubborn silence. It was evident, 
however, that a rising of the Aztecs had been discussed, if 
not planned. Cortes ordered them to instant execution, and 
the prince with other nobles was hung from the branches of a 
ceiba tree by the roadside. Thus closed the line of the Im- 
perial Aztecs in 1525, although the Imperial career was 
finished on the 13th of August, 1521, the day on which the 
Capital was taken. Here ended the race of Mexican Em- 
perors, after a period of one hundred and ninety-seven years, 
and three hundred years from the emigration of the tribe to 
Mexico. 

Cortes pushed on, but subsequently alarmed by tidings of 
discontent brewing in his Capital, he returned to Mexico. The 
Conquest of Nicaragua, Costa Kica, Darien, and the Gulf of 
Panama, would scarce have been too remote for the brilliant 
schemes of this daring adventurer, had not Fate willed other- 



324 NICARAGUA. 

wise. Basely treated by the country for which he had gathered 
immense revenues, he returned to Spain to urge his claims, 
and to avow his innocence of all preferred charges. After a 
series of misfortunes, he finally withdrew to the village of 
Castilleja de la Cuesta, attended by his son, where, on the 2d 
of December, 154*1, in the sixty-third year of his age, he died 
of a broken heart. 

His remains were transported to the Chapel of the Monastery 
of San Isidro in the City of Seville, where they were placed in 
the family vault of the Duke of Medina Sidona. In 1562, 
they were removed by his son Don Martin, to New Spain, and 
laid in the monastery of St. Francis in Tezcuco, by the side of 
his wife. Dona Catalina Pizarro, and a daughter. In 1629 
they were again removed, and on the death of Don Pedro they 
were taken to the Church of St. Francis in the City of Mexico. 
Notwithstanding this removal, they were not permitted to 
rest by the authorities of Mexico, but in 1794 were taken 
to the Hospital of Jesus of Nazareth. In 1823 a mob, in 
commemoration of the era of their National Independence and 
their detestation of the early Spaniards, prepared to break open 
the tomb holding the ashes of the Conqueror and scatter thera 
to the winds ; the authorities even did not interfere, but the 
family, or their friends, entered the vault by night, and 
secretly removed the relics. 

Cortes, by his first marriage, had no children. By his 



MONTEZUMA'S THERE FAVORITE DAUGHTERS. 325 

second he left four : a son, Don Martin, and three daughters, 
who formed splendid alliances. "He also left," says Prescott, 
" several natural children, whom he particularly mentions in 
his testament, and honorably provides for. Two of these, 
Don Martin, the son of Marina, and Don Luis Cortes, at- 
tained considerable distinction, and were created Comenda- 
dores of the Order of St. Jago. The male line of the Mar- 
quesses of the Yalley, became extinct in the fourth generation. 
The title and estates descended to a female, and by her marriage 
were united with those of the house of Terranova, descendants 
of the ' Great Captain' Gonsalvo de Cordova. By a subse- 
quent marriage, they were carried into the family of the Duke 
of Monteleone, a Neapolitan noble." 

Montezuma, dying, commended three favorite daughters to 
the protection of Cortes. After the death of the emperor, 
they were baptized, and subsequently married to Spaniards 
of honorable descent and family, and from them descended 
several noble houses of Spain. To Dona Isabel, Cortes 
granted the city of Tacuba, and several other places as a 
dowry. The house at Castilleja de la Cuesta, near Seville, 
Spain, formerly occupied by Cortes, has been recently pur- 
chased by the Duke de Montpensier, with a view to its being 
repaired and preserved as a national monument. The Span- 
iards do not often trouble themselves about their antiquities. 

And here having traced the career of Hernando Cortes to 



326 NICARAGUA. 

its close, we may, without violence to our narrative, advert to 
another Spanish adventurer, Pizarro, the Conqueror of Peru, 
who after planting the Cross of the Crusade upon the desolated 
altar of the Incas, was assassinated in his palace on Sunday 
the 26th of June, 1541. Pizarro, unprepared as he was, 
baffled for a long time the combined efforts of sixteen assail- 
ants to dispatch him, but finally overpowered, he sank, his 
body pierced with the swords of several of the conspirators. 
The dying conqueror traced a cross with his finger on the 
bloody floor, bent down his head to kiss it, murmuring •' Jesu ! 
Jesul" when a stroke ended his struggling existence. 

The friends of Pizarro prevailed on his enemies to suffer 
them privately to inter his remains. The body was wrapped 
in a cotton cloth, and removed to the Cathedral ; a grave was 
dug in an obscure corner, the services hurriedly completed, 
and thus, in secrecy, was the Corse of the Conqueror consigned 
to kindred dust. In the language of Gomara, ''There was 
none even to say, ' God forgive him !' " 

Subsequently, upon the restoration of tranquillity, the re- 
mains were placed in a coffin, and deposited under a monu- 
ment in a conspicuous part of the Cathedral. In 160T, his 
bones were removed to the New Cathedral, where they re- 
posed by those of Mendoza, "Viceroy of Peru. Pizarro was 
never married, but by an Indian Princess of the Inca blood, 
he had a son and daughter. Both survived him, but the son 



PIZARRO'S TITLE, ESTATE, AND REMAINS. 321 

died ere reaching mauliood. The mother wedded Ariipuero, 
a Spanish cavalier, and removed witli him to Spain. Her 
daughter Francisca accompanied her, and subsequently mar- 
ried her uncle, Hernando Pizarro. The title and estates of 
Francisco did not descend to his illegitimate offspring ; but 
in the third generation the title was revived in favor of Don 
Juan Hernando Pizarro, who was created Marquis de la 
Conquesta, with a liberal pension. His descendants, bearing 
this title, are still to be found, says Prescott, at Truxillo, in 
the ancient province of Estramadura, the birth-place of the 
Pizarros. 

In a " Ramble from Sydney to Southampton," published in 
1851, the following interesting article appears : " In the crypt, 
under the high altar, are deposited the remains of the cele- 
brated Pizarro, who was assassinated hard by. A small piece 
of silver, which I dropped into the hand of the attending 
sacristan, procured me admission into the crypt. Descending 
a few steps, I entered a small place, some twenty feet long, 
quite light, and whitewashed, and which smelt and looked so 
much like a comfortable wine-cellar, that I caught myself 
more than once looking round for the bins and bottles. The 
first object I saw was a large square tomb, surmounted by 
the erect figure of an Abbot, and, close by, in a narrow open- 
ing in the wall, I noticed, what first appeared to me to be a 
collection of dusty rags, but a closer inspection proved that 



328 NICARAGUA. 

this was all that remained of the renowned Conqueror of 
Peru." 

He had still on him the clothes and shoes which he wore at 
the time of his assassination. Of course his body is nothing 
but a skeleton, covered with dried flesh and skin, so that no 
features are discernible. The body is covered with what was 
white linen swathed around him, but the dust of centuries had 
collected on it, and turned it into a light-brown color, and it 
almost pulverizes when touched. The body is placed on a 
narrow piece of plank, in a sloping position, and was put in 
this hole merely to get it out of the way. The folks in Lima 
do not think any thing of the remains of poor Pizarro, and I 
dare say that a little money, judiciously invested, would procure 
for any curiosity-hunter the whole of his remains." Dr. Cohen 
of Baltimore has one of the fingers of Pizarro. 

Thus closed the lives of the most illustrious leaders of the 
Conquest known in Spanish history. The followers of Pizarro 
and Cortes were far from being the chivalry of Old Spain ; 
they were adventurers, whose minds, excited and elated by the 
returns of gold and precious stones from Mexico and Peru, 
only saw in those new regions a prodigality of wealth, to be 
won by the swords of the daring, and who, probably, bankrupt 
in fortune, dreamed of an El Dorado, where, in a single cam- 
paign, they might regain fabulous riches, and riot in Indian 
pleasures. I 



IRRESISTIBLE ARGUMENTS OF THE HOLY CROSS. 329 

The Cross reared upon despoiled shrines, whether of the 
Aztecas or the Incas, only added a cloak, a solemnity, an 
earnestness to their purpose ; but the cruelties attendant upon 
the introduction of the Holy Catholic Faith were strange 
arguments wherewith to justify the Confessor's lessons of 
Justice, Humility, Good-will, and Love ! From the throne to 
the hut, the population received the new Faith, baptized with 
the blood of their fellow-beings, and the bigotry and reckless- 
ness of the Fathers of the Conquest but illy paralleled the acts 
of Him, who on Golgotha offered himself for the Redemption 
of mankind I It is to these scenes of plunder, pillage, and vio- 
lence, the memory of the exiled Indian reverts, as he gazes upon 
the Holy Cross — he feels an awe creeping over his soul, as 
he marks the Fathers, as of yore, chanting the Mass, and he 
innately shudders as he notes the dominion of the Church 
extending over his native haunts. 

It has been said by some writer, " that from the outermost 
margin of this Continent to the shores of the Atlantic, the name 
and fame of Montezuma is cherished by the various tribes." 
Many of the Indians of Nicaragua, with still unextinguished, 
though secret veneration for their hidden Idols, nourish the 
hope, and sacredly cling to the belief, that this most unfortunate 
of the Aztec Emperors, will yet return and re-establish his 
Empire, and, hoping for the Paraiso of yore, where, ere the 
mailed steeds of Castile brought dismay and carnage, Monte- 



330 NICARAGUA. 

zuma, to his people, was the reflection of their Deity — the 
impersonation of Infinity. 

We have thus given an extended sketch of the origin of 
Mexican civilization, because Guatemala at the time referred 
to comprised Nicaragua, and was peopled by the same tribes 
or their descendants. The flow of Empire has been west- 
ward ; the gems of Honduras, the fertile valleys of Costa Rica, 
with her pearl fisheries, the minerals of Nicaragua, with its 
salubrious climate — these attracted the avaricious Conquerors, 
and ere long they broke in upon the peacefully-governed 
plains whither the shattered remnants of the vanquished had 
fled, and found a temporary retreat. 

Nicaragua was justly termed El Paraiso de Mahoma. The 
early tribes who had journeyed from the far distant North, 
where wars were waging, found, as they progressed in their 
exile, pleasant hills and valleys, luxuriantly covered with shady 
groves and pleasant fruits, where nature offered them a gene- 
rous support and exacted but little, if any labor in return. 
The spirit of the warlike grew more social as he came in con- 
tact with his fellow-man, and the magical power of agriculture 
revealed to him something beyond a subsistence to be gained 
by weapons imbued in his brother's blood. 

The warrior, in his sterner Northern clime, had imbibed a 
spirit, a love for war, but in the soft luxuriancy of the South, 
new scenes suggested new ideas, and prompted the erection 



A STEP TOWARD CIVILIZATION. 331 

of protections against the Sun. The love for war was suc- 
ceeded by enthusiasm, a wish to venerate something. There 
was a Giver — a God — a Deity — a Parent of all this teeming 
grandeur and goodness — and in the deep leafy arcades, on the 
mountain crests, in the dim niches of the echoing valleys, 
pyramids arose, fashioned by the once bloody hands, and 
dedicated to a Deity. Although adored by human sacrifices, 
this was a step toward civilization, inasmuch as the idea born 
might and would in time tend to the cultivation of ennobling 
thoughts and humanizing practices. The Deity they wor- 
shiped had protected them through their weary pilgrimage, 
and the Yale of Anahuac, once the scene of sacrifices, soon 
received the genial influences of the Christian religion, and 
the sacrificial stone and bloody knives were succeeded by the 
Baptismal Font and the Rosary. 

The remains of ancient cities attract the tourist in Guate- 
mala. Kuins of much interest have been found in Nicaragua, 
and we may truly hope that the records of the past may not 
be entirely destroyed, but may yet serve to throw much light 
on the early history of this interesting country. Nations have 
fallen, and been succeeded by others on our Continent. We 
vainly strive to gather data from the archives of oblivion j the 
tide of Time remorselessly sweeps important documents beyond 
our reach, and we must soon rely on the History of the Indian 
— Tradition I 



CHAPTER XXX. 

EL SECRETO DEL ESTRECHO — THE SECRET OF THE STRAIT. 

CORTES IN SEARCH OF THE STRAIT — WHAT PRESCOTT SAYS ABOUT IT — WHAT 
OVIEDO THOUGHT OF CORTES' OPINION — ALVARADO IN SEARCH OF IT — CHRIS- 
TOVAL DE OLID TRIES HIS HAND — THE SECRET TO MAKE CHARLES THE FIFTH 
LORD OF THE WORLD — ALL THE MARITIME NATIONS OP EUROPE TRYING TO 
PENETRATE IT — SPAIN EAGER ON THE SUBJECT — BALBOA CLAIMS THE 
ENTIRE PACIFIC OCEAN — REVELS IN GOLD AND GEMS — FINALLY SUFFERS 
AS A TRAITOR — PEDRO ARIAS AND HIS TREACHERY — THE CONQUERORS OP 
MEXICO AND PERU MEET IN HONDURAS — MUTUAL ASTONISHMENT OF THE WAR- 
RIORS — SPECULATION STILL RIFE AS TO THE STRAIT — THE SECRET YET IN 
EMBRYO — FIVE POINTS OF TRANSIT — THE RIO SAN JUAN AND THE RAPIDS — 
OBJECTIONS TO A SHIP CANAL — ADVANTAGES OP A RAILWAY — ESTIMATES 
AND REMARKS. 

Cortes in 1524 fitted out an Expedition, the principal ob- 
ject of which was to discover a Strait which should connect 
the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. He also had another squad- 
ron of five vessels for the same purpose in the Gulf of Mexico, 
to take the direction of Florida. This discovery was then, as 
(332) 



TnE SECRET OP THE STUAIT. 333 

others have been in our times, " the great ignis fatuus of navi- 
gators." Prescott very justly remarks: "By some it was 
supposed that the Kio San Juan had been at one time naviga- 
ble for frigates, and the Lakes Nicaragua and Managua, as 
well as the Rio Tipitapa, were also considered to be one vast 
sheet, and thence, there seemed to the early Spaniards, to be 
a certain exit to the Pacific." 

Oviedo, although he considered Cortes ''the greatest cap- 
tain and most practiced in military affairs of any we have 
known," thought his opinion relative to the Strait "proved 
him to be no great cosmographer." The conversations and 
correspondences of men of science touch frequently upon this 
subject. Columbus wrote to the Emperor: "Your Majesty 
may be assured that, as I know how much you have at heart 
the discovery of this Great Secret of a Strait, I shall postpone 
all interests and projects of my own for the fulfillment of this 
grand object." {Martyr, Opus, Epist. Up. 811.) Alvarado 
was deputed, with a large force of Spaniards and Indians, 
to descend the southern plateau of the Cordilleras, and pene- 
trate the countries beyond Oaxaca. This Expedition ter- 
minated in the Conquest of Gruatemala. 

An armament was equipped and placed under the command 
of Christoval de Olid, who was to steer for Honduras, and 
plant a colony on its northern coast. A detachment of this 
squadron was subsequently to cruise along its southern shore 



334 NICARAGUA. 

toward Darien in searcli "of the mysterious Strait." The 
country was reported to be so full of gold, that " the fisher- 
men used gold weights for their nets." (^Rel. Quarta, Ap. 
Lorenzana, page dSd.) 

In 1523, the Emperor Charles V. enjoms Cortes to search 
carefully for it, and the latter in reply, adds : " It would render 
the King of Spain master of so many kingdoms that he might 
consider himself Lord of the World." Cortes, however, was 
compelled to return to Spain, and the search was abandoned. 

The Romans knew little of a world beyond the Western 
waves ; their acquaintance with Southern and Middle Europe, 
and a portion of Africa and Asia being imperfect and limited, 
for they were not a maritime nation, and water is the element 
of the discoverer. Subsequently Europe, being divided into 
independent nations, the Republics on the Baltic and Mediter- 
ranean launched their vessels upon the waves, seeking com- 
mercial advantages, while Spain and Portugal competed with 
the Eastern Caravans in their search for another avenue lead- 
ing to the Indian Spice Islands. 

"The discovery of a strait into the Indian Ocean," says 
Prescott, " was the burden of every order from the Government. 
The discovery of an Indian passage is the true key to the 
maritime movements of the fifteenth, and the first half of the 
sixteenth centuries." And again : " The eagerness to explore the 
wonderful secrets of the New Hemisphere became so notive, that 



ENCHANTING TALES OF TTTE SPANISH EL DORADO. 335 

tlic principal cities of Spain were, in a manner, depopulated, 
as emigrants thronged one after another to take their chances 
upon the deep." 

. The Yenitian Ambassador, Andrea INTavagiero, who traveled 
through Spain in 1525, notices the general fever of emigration. 
Seville, in particular, he says, was so stripped of its inhabit- 
ants, that the city was left almost to the women. '' The El 
Dorado," where the sands sparkled with gems, and golden 
pebbles as large as birds'-eggs were said to be dragged out of 
the streams in nets, the emerald mines of Peru, where the gems 
were found upon the surface, the turquoises and amethysts of 
infinite varieties, and the massive chains of gold, composed of 
large lumps of the precious metal, of exquisite quality, wooed 
the adventurous to this Land of Light, called by the Spaniards, 
Castillo del Oro — Golden Castile. 

"What were naked Indians, armed with spears, clubs and 
primitive weapons, to the shield, helm, and coats of mail of 
the Castillian Knights ? What were hunger, thirst, fevers, 
death even, to those who, from continuous poverty, heard tales 
of enchantment, and tottered from their couches, to enrol them- 
selves under the banners of the Conquerors ? What to them 
was the Holy CauGe — the Faith ? Not what buoyed the 
Templars and Hospitallers on the arid sands of the East — a 
watchword of belief — and who dying in defense of the Red 

Cross, were assured of an eternity in Paradise ! No ! The 



336 NICARAGUA. 

incentive was gold, and while the Aztecs mourned their 
national degradation, new altars were builded, and a new God 
adored. Even then, the golden shores of the Pacific were yet 
unexplored — unknown. 

How magnificently resounded through Castile the report of 
Yasco JSTunez de Balboa, the discoverer of the Southern Sea, 
who while weighing some gold collected from the natives, was 
accosted by a young chieftain, who had been attentively mark- 
ing the satisfaction expressed upon the features of the strangers. 

" What ! is it this you desire ?" said the Barbarian. 

''Yes !" replied the Chivalry of the Conquest. " Gold ! Gold !" 

The chief struck the scales with his hand, and scattering 
the treasure far and wide, contemptuously exclaimed, " If this is 
what you so much prize that you are willing to abandon your 
distant homes, and risk even life itself for it, I can tell you of a 
land where they eat and drink out of golden vessels, and gold 
is cheap as iron is with you. To the North ! To the North I" 
and Balboa, armed to the teeth, rushed frantically to the 
Pacific, where he exclaimed, "I claim this unknown sea with 
all that it contains for the King of Castile, and I will make 
good the claim against all. Christian or Infidel, who dare gain- 
say it." — (^Herrera — Dec. 1, Lih. 10, Gap. 2.) 

Darien was occupied, but Balboa in 1519 transferred his 
Capital to the ancient site of Panama, which although un- 
healthy, was favorably located for maritime enterprise. Years 



VASCO NUNEZ DE liALBOA. 337 

elapsed, and the country South of this was unsought, the de- 
tection of a Strait which was supposed must intersect some 
portion of the extended Isthmus, being enforced strictly by 
the Government. Balboa next landed on the shores of a 
territory, the name of whose Prince, was Coura. Thence he 
navigated various streams and bays, and steered toward the 
dominions of a Cacique named Tumaco. 

This Chief opposed the landing of the strangers, but peace 
ensuing, the Spaniards received many valuable presents in 
token of entire pacification. Some of the servants of the chief 
brought gifts of gold to the value of six hundred and fourteen 
pieces-of-eight, and two hundred and forty-five large pearls, 
with many others, which, though small, were bright. These 
gems were not so white as usual, owing to the Indians having 
used fire in opening the oysters. The Spaniards evincing such 
great joy upon receiving the pearls, the Cacique sent some of 
his Indians to fish, who within four days, returned with as 
many as weighed no less than ninety-six ounces. The Cacique 
assured Nunez that there was a country about five leagues 
from thence, where there was an abundance of large oysters, 
which contained pearls as large as beans. 

Subsequently, Nunez was created Lord Lieutenant of the 

Countries on the South Seas by the Crown, Pedro Arias 

d'Avilla having been chosen Grovernor of Castillo del Oro. 

This officer is commonly called Pedrarias by the Spanish 

22 



338 NICARAGUA. 

writers. ISTunez in 151T, in the 42d year of his age, suffered 
as a traitor, for having served his Prince with too much zeal 
and fidelity. A course of cruelty finally compelled Pedro 
Arias to think of removing from his palace at Panama, to 
some remote spot, where his enemies would forget, if they 
would not forgive him. 

About the beginning of 1526, the Court of Spain, wearied 
with continual complaints against him, determined to send a 
successor ; Pedro hearing of this, determined to retire to 
Nicaragua, whose conquest, already attempted by Francisco 
Hernandez, he resolved to secure to himself. Francisco ad- 
vanced cordially to meet him, but Pedro pretending to have 
received information that the latter intended to revolt, treach- 
erously seized, and had him beheaded. Hated and despised, 
yet he was confirmed in his government of Nicaragua, a fitting 
tool for the Inquisitorial rack and cord. 

Yeragua and Costa Rica were subsequently occupied by 
other leaders, and the mailed knights, forcing their way through 
morasses, over mountains, and through dense jungles, started 
aghast, when in Honduras, they heard the trumpets of Christ- 
ian comrades pealing defiance, and rushed astonished into 
mutual view. Then, and not till then, had the survey of this 
wild Realm been completed, and the warriors met, only to 
exchange tales of wonder, feats of daring or legends of pleasure, 
one exhibiting gold and gems, another magnificently painting 



THE VARIOUS POINTS OF TRANSIT. 339 

the beauties of the soft-eyed Amazous, or the dusky daughters 
of down-trodden Azatlan. 

Since that time speculation has been rife, relative to the 
Strait, and five points of Transit have been indicated, which 
we give, although Mr. Squier has already written very ably 
upon the subject. 

First. The Isthmus of Tehuantepec, between the sources of 
the River Chimalpa and the Haasacualco, falling into the 
Atlantic. 

Second. The Isthmus of Nicaragua, by the River San Juan, 
Lake Nicaragua to the Gulf of Fonseca, the Gulf of Papagaya, 
or the Port of Realejo. 

Third. The Isthmus of Panama. 

Fourth. The Isthmus of Darien. 

Fifth. The Isthmus between the Rio Atrato, falling into the 
Atlantic, and the Rio Choco, falling into the Pacific. 

From the Lake Nicaragua, however, several routes have 
been suggested. One by the River Sapoa to the Bay of Sali- 
nas. One by the Rio Lajas near Rivas, (however, utterly 
impracticable), to San Juan del Sur, the present Transit. 
Another, by the Rio Tipitapa to the Port of Tamarinda, on 
the Pacific, or to Realejo, or by the Estero Real to the Bay of 
Fonseca. 

In the first place, the Rio San Juan has many streams 
issuing from it, which bleed it so profusely, that at times eveu 



340 NICARAGUA. 

the boats drawing eighteen inches run aground ; tlie Tauro, Col- 
orado, Serapaqui, and the San Carlos, must first be dammed up, 
ere a sufficient volume of water could be had upon which reliance 
might be based. I have weighed maturely the various sug- 
gestions of those interested in this Canal, and if I mistake not, 
Mr. Squier expresses doubts as to the navigability of the San 
Juan for vessels of large size. He also deems the Castillo 
Rapids a formidable objection. 

I do not believe these Rapids to be the result of any up- 
heaving from natural causes, but are chiefly artificial, and I 
further believe, that were these mouths, the Colorado, Tauro, 
and the San Juan dammed, the immense body of water flowing 
from the Lake, would cut and keep open a very considerable 
s/ channel, which would greatly improve navigation. The Col- 
orado being the heaviest drain, I paid minute attention to this 

bleeder, and do not doubt that a comparatively small sum paid 

I 

to an enterprising Yankee, would sufficiently choke it off. 

The Rapids of Machuca, Mico, Los Yalos, and the Toro, 
are inconsiderable, though of course each of these obstructions 
would receive their quota of a capital raised for their removal. 
The difficulty of Ship Transit never occurred to me to arise 
from any of these, but solely from the nature' of the base of the 
River, and in a measure from the nature of its banks, they being 
BO yielding as to add greatly to the alluvial deposits, during 
the rainy season. The bottom of tlie river is flinty rock, and 



ADVANTAGES OF A RAILWAY. 341 

an incalculable amount of labor and money would be required 
for the construction and completion of the Great Ship Canal. 

But why should the world at large harp forever on this mode 
of Transit ? Why not attempt a railway from Greytown, on 
the right bank of the Rio San Juan, to San Carlos ? The 
idea is as valuable as his who suggested the Canal I For all 
purposes, supposing steamships to augment, trade would be 
as greatly facilitated, if not in a greater degree, than by a 
Canal. Supposing the latter to be completed, would not a 
longer time be required for the passage of ships from the 
Atlantic to the Pacific than would be necessary for the un- 
loading at Greytown and the reloading at San Carlos together 
with the overland railroad conveyance ? Steamers upon the 
Lake would be necessary of course, and yet trade would be 
facilitated immensely, for in the event of such an arrange- 
ment, Americans would form a nucleus around each depot, 
and there need be no necessity for depending upon the Nica- 
raguans. 

A fine trade would ensue from the interior alone — Nica- 
ragua would be benefitted by it, as also Costa Rica, and in a 
much less time could a railroad be constructed. I believe it 
to be as practicable as the Canal. But the latter has occupied 
the general attention, and although the Government of Nica- 
ragua has entered repeatedly into negotiations for such a 
desirable national improvement, the ignis fatuus survives the 



342 NICARAGUA. 

attempt. A pamphlet was written upon this subject by the 
present Emperor of France, Louis Napoleon, when at Ham, 
but it is devoid, I believe, of the merit claimed for it by its 
author, and his estimates are certainly incorrect. 

Baily estimates the Rio San Juan, including its windings, 
to be eighty-eight miles in length, and therefore it has a fall 
of about sixteen inches to the mile. The result of three hun- 
dred and fifty-one levels taken by him in 1838 between San 
Juan del Sur and the mouth of the Rio Lajas, shows that the 
level of the Lake is one hundred and twenty-eight feet three 
inches above that of the Pacific. Mr. Lloyd estimates the 
Pacific at low water in the Bay of Panama, to be six feet six 
inches lower than the Caribbean Sea at Chagres. Assuming 
this, we have Lake Nicaragua one hundred and twenty-one feet 
Bine inches above the Atlantic. The variation of the level with 
the season is about six feet six inches- 
Relative to the cost of making such an immense Canal, 
which would most probably be the largest in the world, and 
fit to be stamped Napoleon de Nicaragua, could it be con- 
structed for two hundred millions of dollars, would the trade 
guaranty its outlay ? Eight out of every ten laborers sent 
there would die — provisions could be obtained only at exor- 
bitant prices, while the comforts of a home could not be had 
on any terms. In many localities on this river it rains every 
day in the year Avhile heavy fogs lie above the tree tops, pro- 



OBJECTIONS TO A SHIP CANAL. b4b 

duciiig a close, damp, choking atmosplicre, markedly op- 
pressive. 

The change is very remarkable as you touch the Lake. 
There the air is fresher and purer, but as you descend the 
river you feel at once that you have reached a different climate. 
And again, fuel along this Transit is fast becoming scarce. 
The wood being porous and wet, generates but little steam, 
and the stations are illy supplied. Coal could be transported 
on the railway from the Atlantic Terminus to the Pacific, but 
this can be done to little extent now, upon the stern-wheel 
boats. At times during the rainy season, they can barely 
carry their load of passengers, and I have known the river- 
boats to run aground on sand-bars formed within twenty -four 
hours, and forced to remain there frequently all night, exposing 
their living freight to the most insinuating rain. There they 
would anchor till daybreak, when, to lighten the craft, the 
passengers would have to leap overboard, and give a " help- 
ing hand." 

To those who dream of a Ship Caual, I only add, be no 
longer befogged — and to those Capitalists whose expectancies 
are merged in vessels and foreign trade, I would suggest the 
Kailway as equally feasible. Beds Of coal have been dis- 
covered in Costa Rica and on the Mosquito Coast, and con- 
sequently this article could be had at less expense than the 
poor wood of the neighboring country. 



344 NICARAGUA. 

For purposes beyond a traveling Tiansit, the Kio San 
Juan will not be used for many years to come ; and should a 
Railway be constructed through the Chiriqui District, where 
advantages are greater for a similar mode of transportation, 
travel would decrease on the Nicaragua Transit, inasmuch as 
there is wanting capital and energy with the inhabitants, and 
the state of the country will be no doubt for years as it has 
been, unsettled, and foreign Capitalists will not venture where 
there are so many chances for outlay, and so few for revenue, 
without the Cass and Yrisarri Treaty be fully and fairly 
entered into. 

4 

Should the Government of Nicaragua be once firmly based, 
and not made the butt for contending factions, as heretofore it 
has been, this State may occupy the most important position 
on the Map of New Spain 5 and should her mines be explored, 
her revenues would guaranty extensive public improvements 
worthy of a nation, which in many respects is far superior to 
the different races which surround her — remnants of the exiles 
from dismantled Azatlan. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

CARDINAL SOURCES OP A NATION'S GREATNESS — THE FUTURE OF NICARAGUA- 
CONTAINS ALL THE ELEMENTS OF "WEALTH — MUST AWAKE OR SLEEP FOR- 
EVER — A VIGOROUS REPUBLIC ON THE WING — THE GREAT NATIONS OF THE 
EAST FEELING HER INFLUENCE — HER SHADOW ALREADY ON THE HALLS OF 
THE MONTEZUMAS — BLIGHTING INFLUENCE OF THE MOTHER COUNTRY — THE 
REPUBLICS OF THE GREAT SOUTHERN CONTINENT — CALIFORNIA A VAST NA- 
TIONAL MART — SAN FRANCISCO THE CONSTANTINOPLE OF THE AMERICAS — OUR 
GOLD HUNTERS AND THOSE OF THE CONQUEST — MOUNTAINS NEVER KEEP 
ACCOUNTS — THE GREAT PACIFIC RAILWAY — THE PRESENT MAIL ROUTE — AN 
AVENUE NEEDED FOR THE TRADE OF ASIA — OUR CONTINENT A WORLD IN IT- 
SELF — ADVANTAGES OF THE PROPOSED SHIP CANAL — GREAT BRITAIN VERSUS 
THE UNITED STATES. 

The cardinal sources of a nation's greatness are, no doubt, 
Agriculture, Commerce, and Manufactures, Nicaragua can 
only, to a very limited extent, claim them as standards of her 
present position as an independent and vigorous Republic. 
Weak in her army, devoid entirely of a marine, she possesses 

(345) 



346 NICARAGUA. 

but little ability to defend herself from the armed aggressors 
or fillibusters, who seek wealth, pleasure, and repose in her 
inviting territory. 

With a population sufficient to rouse her from the lethargy 
of the Past, with products capable of enabling her to assume 
her proper rank among vigorous nations, and with a super- 
abundance of mineral wealth wherewith to support her dignity 
as a Republic, naught seems wanting save an innate spirit of 
Enterprise. As yet, her minerales yield gold only to strangers ; 
her extent of public lands are unredeemed from total neglect ; 
Disunion, that baneful, leprous curse, prowls through her 
realm, and Religion, in the absence of her first-born — Educa- 
tion, doubly mourns the inattention to her invocations. Lying 
in the path of the thriving, enterprising Republic of the United 
States, she must either rouse from her apathy, or she will 
indeed add, in a few years, but one more star to our Banner. 

A wise provision in the Constitution of a State may woo 
the stranger to her domain, a cold reserve will chill his 
approach. The Plain of Leon is admirably adapted to the 
cultivation of sugar, and many sections to the growth of 
cotton. Her tobacco ranks high, her soil is generous, and to 
the agriculturist indeed inviting. Her mines are abundant 
and wealthy. Can it be that she will indulge in the apathy 
of the by-gone ? Where the rank grass waves, crops of 
maize should flourish, and where the swarthy Cayman re- 



MUST AWAKE OR SLEEP FOREVER. 341 

poses, tlie settler would obtaio his muck for vegetation. A 
little liberality upon the part of its Government would quickly 
meet an ample recompense. Erom San Jorge to Realejo are 
found haciendas, with but few exceptions, in even tolerable 
condition. Everywhere is a lack of enterprise and capital. 
A system of drainage would produce an ample supply of 
excellent water, and the climate would hence be improved. 
To an American, life in this land would pass as a pleasant 
dream. 

To him who, reared in the mountainous districts of the 
United States, seeks bracing air and a life of excitement, 
Nicaragua offers great inducements ; to the ardent Southerner, 
Rivas, Granada, Managua, and Leon appeal; to the enthu- 
siast who would woo Nature, here is she prolific in charms, 
and to him who has dived deeply into the yawning gulfs in 
search of ores, I can only add, here he cannot be disappointed. 
With a population introduced, composed of such, the Future 
of this State would indeed be glorious. With the proposed 
Canal and her subsequently-developed resources, we could 
proudly acknowledge this Central Land as a kindred Republic. 
But as I write, her destiny is being recorded. She must awake, 
or sleep forever ; for while she apathetically resigns herself 
to an inactivity neither *' masterly" nor advantageous, a vigor- 
ous Republic is on the wing, whose tramp is heard on the 
neighboring islands as she marches to her Pacific children. 



348 NICARAGUA. 

The European powers are concentrating on the eastern 
borders of Asia. Australia, from being a penal colony, springs 
magically into importance, her gold replenishing the exhausted 
coffers of the Eastern Hemisphere, while her agricultural re- 
sources, vast, illimitable, invite and retain the thrifty husband- 
man, alike with the industrious and enterprising mechanic. 
Japan is opening her sealed ports, and American influence 
has impressed its masses with our ability, courage, and ad- 
vancement as a great people. China and Cochin- China are 
peering from behind their ancient walls, and inquiringly scan 
us vis-a-vis, while Russia, cold in climate, breaks the fetters 
of her serfs, and without jealousy, marks our Flag upon foreign 
lands and seas, and meets us openly and fairly in our national 
exchanges. 

Spain perceives our shadow lying on the threshold of the 
halls of the Montezumas — on the dominions of the Incas — on 
the shores of the Antilles — and she feels we must eventually 
plow her ancient empire on this Continent. And how true 
the suggestion that whatever France, England, Russia, and 
Spain may accomplish here, our Republic must eventually be- 
come enriched thereby. The Empire of Brazil exists, 'tis true, 
and Portugal possesses in her transatlantic territory a treas- 
ure. Yet her minerals are undeveloped, her forests unknown, 
her diamond mines but imperfectly worked, and her agricultu- 
ral resources certainly not in a progressive state 



THE REPUBLICS OF THE SOUTHERN CONTINENT. 349 

The soldiers of Pizarro inculcated in Peru not an idea of 
thrift. They marched over her soil, despoiling, murdering, 
blighting. The industry of her population was crushed in 
the germ, and the public works of the Incas, grand in concep- 
tion and magnificent in design and detail, have fallen to decay, 
or remain in a state of semi-completion, as when the gold- 
shod steeds of the Conquerors knelled on the arched bridges 
death and devastation through the heart of their Empire. 
The Chilians are somewhat awakening from their past degra- 
dation, though the South Americans, generally, are but little 
removed from the slavish condition in w^hich they were when 
the Mother of the Conquest abandoned the ^ew World for 
her Hispanian shores. 

In proportion as the Eastern shores of Asia become thronged 
with Europeans, are the resources of our Pacific States de- 
veloped, and thither are drawn magnetically the Republics of 
the Southern Continents, who, enervated by hitherto spas- 
modic kite-flying in bogus minerales and short-lived specula- 
tions, seek our enterprising markets, not only desiring to ac- 
quire affinities political, but to partake of the wealth which 
is steadily flowing to us in honorable, orthodox, mercantile pur- 
suits. Already are our engineers, architects, and mechanics 
engaged on the Southern Continent, spanning with bridges 
and railways the hitherto trackless wilds, and as our Terri- 
tories fill up, the intercourse between ISTorth and South 



350 NICARAGUA. 

America must increase. Our relations with the world at 
large arc comparatively undisturbed, our resources are 
annually increasing, and the great work of peopling the 
Pacific shores invites our energies and capital. The trafiic 
from our realm is not to be limited to China or Japan. The 
vast Tartarean region of the Amoor River, the Seas of Ochotsk 
and Kamschatka, the Philippines, Borneo, Sumatra, the Eastern 
coast of British India, Burmah, Ceylon, Siam, and the numer- 
ous groups of islands in Oceanica, may be engrossed in the 
account. 

Let us approach the subject, prepared to invest, pro- 
vided we find in its investigation a guaranty for the capital 
desired. California must be made an Emporium — a ISTational 
Mart. Its position justifies the undertaking. Thither various 
routes are already tending from the Atlantic sea-board. 
Railway, Steamship, and Clipper Companies, are all dispatch- 
ing valuable freights of travelers and goods, and all striving 
for advantages over their healthy and energetic competitors. 
Established railways are becoming connected by lateral routes, 
while new ones are springing annually into existence, and 
the two months' travel to ISTew Orleans of a few years past, has 
already been reduced to about four or five days. Prom thence, 
San Prancisco can be made in sixteen days via Teliauiitepec, 
and thence to Shanghai in eighteen more. Presh teas from 
China may therefore be upon the sale-counters in Philadelphia 



MINES AND GOLD WASHINGS. 351 

ill lliirty-eiglit days — now tlie time necessary for sailing 
Tcssels is at least four months — sometimes more. 

Various surveys are traced to the Constantinople of the 
Americas. True, these numerous branches will merge into one 
Capital Trunk, leading thither- ward, and in a few years the 
links thus forged will form a complete chain, and our Republic 
will stand on the Pacific, the Banker of the world. But this 
great chain should be a national one. The climate through 
which surveys have been made possesses every advantage. 
Our territory would be more easily protected, and hence safer 
and more inviting to the native and emigrant. 

From all directions of our country, the mails bring fresh 
news from the Mines, and add new gold washings and findings 
to the already extended list. In the Middle States the precious 
ore has been found, and from Maryland to Yirginia is but a 
pleasant trip ; then the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee, and the States bordering on the great range 
of mountains, all yielding the auriferous deposit, blended in 
rock, or found in the generous streams. Onr new-sprung 
Territories — some of them scarce baptized, with their earliest 
accents, send tidings of continuous washings. Nebraska from 
the Cherry and Dry Creeks, and the Platte River, gives us 
thrilling news ; and far on the outer-basin, Erazer River, in- 
vites the enterprising and hardy. 

There is a vast field in Nicaragua, open for the agriculturist 



Sl2 NICARAGUA. 

and the grazier, for where there is and has been a general 
desire, in fact, a mania, for gold fields, the venders of the ne- 
cessaries of life have accumulated all the wealth, while the 
miners, in the majority of instances, have either returned home 
almost as poor as when they left, or have ruined their consti- 
tutions in incessant toil in damp and unhealthy localities, where 
they amassed their " dust" at the expense of their health. The 
history of the gold hunters of the Conquest compares with 
that of those of the present age, and we should profit, by a 
perusal of those pages which chronicle the vices, the few 
virtues, and the superstitions and violences of the bygone. 

The sudden enjoyment of great wealth had its natural and 
unwholesome effect ; the means thus lightly obtained were little 
prized ; the passion for gaming was indulged in without re- 
straint, and the prize money which was the reward of years of 
toil, was oftentimes staked and lost in a single night. The 
Spaniard Lequizano, whose share of booty in one victory in 
Peru, was the image of the Sun, and who lost it in the indul- 
gence of this national vice, gambling, has fathered the Spanish 
proverb, " Juega el Sol antes que amanezca" — Play away the 
Sun before Sun-rise. The acquisition of fortunes, whether 
by a chain of successes at the gaming table, or by " streaks of 
luck" in mining, are seldom beneficial or lasting, for where the 
soldier stakes his last real and loses, he consoles himself with 
a new conquest, and the miner turns from the monte-table a 



THREE ROUTES FOR THE PACIFIC RAIL-ROAD. 353 

bankrupt, with the proverb, " Well 1 Well 1 Mountains never 
keep accounts." 

The gold-bearing quartz we have traced along the routes 
of the Great Central Road to the Constantinople of the 
Americas, whose history will be written with a pen of gold at 
some remoter period. For the full development of our re- 
sources, and the union of the Pacific with the Atlantic, three 
continental lines of railway are necessary. One, starting from 
the west shore of Lake Superior, traversing Minnesota, Ne- 
braska and Washington, about on the parallel of the forty- 
seventh degree North latitude, and terminating at Puget 
Sound. Another starting from St. Louis, crossing Kansas 
and Utah to San Francisco, in latitude thirty-eighth degree ; 
and the third, from Memphis, Tennessee, traversing Arkansas, 
Texas, the southern part of New Mexico and California to 
San Diego, on the Pacific. ■ 

A wagon-road is even now established between San Fran- 
cisco and the Mississippi, and the feasibility of one of the 
above indicated routes, has been thereby evinced. That road 
has been established within a year past, by order of Congress, 
for the conveyance of mails and passengers between St. Louis 
and Memphis, and California, and per contract, the Company 
stipulate to carry the letter-mails semi-weekly, each way, in 
four-horse post-coaches, suitable for the conveyance of passen- 
gers, and to make the trip within twenty-five days. The 
23 



354 NICARAGUA. 

route selected by the Post-Office Department for this Mail 
Line, probably possesses superior advantages, admitting of 
travel the entire year, without interruption from snow or severe 
cold, affording a practicable stage-road the whole way, and 
furnishing accommodations of water, food, forage and fuel 
along the line. The starting-points on the Mississippi, are 
St. Louis and Memphis, and the two branches converge at 
Little Rock in Arkansas ; thence the road crosses the northern 
portion of Texas, the southern part of Mexico, striking the 
head of the Gulf of California at Eort Yuma, and proceeding 
north-westerly across California to San Francisco. From 
Memphis to San Diego the way is plain. 

This is a practicable Kail-Road Route, for the distance 
traveled by the Post-Coaches, is eighty miles per day. The 
trade with Asia seeks an avenue across the Continent, and this 
as well as travel between Europe and Asia will prefer this 
route, provided we forestall Great Britain in her desire to 
build a rail-road from Halifax through the Canadas to Yictoria 
on the Pacific. This latter, however, would cost at least two 
hundred and fifty millions of dollars, and when completed, 
the track would be covered with snow for six months in each 
year, and for three or four more additional, it is said with 
water. 

A quarter of a century past, and the summer tourist viewed 
a trip beyond the limits of his own State, indeed a journey ; 



AMERICA A WORLD IN ITSELF, 355 

now he seeks the Kocky Mountains, and as he roams through 
its grand ravines, and from some hoary pinnacle gazes far 
down upon the glorious lap of Nature, how grandly do the 
beauties of his own domain — his native land, appeal to his 
soul I The Alps, the Rhine, dwindle into insignificance whea 
compared with creations in our own realm I Our continent is 
indeed a world in itself. On our matchless prairies, and in our 
unexcelled savannahs, we can sow and reap, and the harvests 
are sufficent to feed a world. AYhere find finer timber, 
grander streams, more majestic scenery ? Where find a 
more enlightened nation ? In her progress already, she hath 
proven her strength and activity. 

Our Steamers sweep the Seas, our Clippers sail in the wake 
of no foreign and competing crafts, our mechanics are myriad, 
and that which they must learn they acquire but to excel in. 
Thirty millions strong, and at peace with mankind 1 Even 
this truism seems fabulous I We are adrift upon a Sea, and 
our helmsman fears not the storms beating against our Ship 
of State ! Thirty millions of freemen, proud of their indepen- 
dence, untrammeled, nerved for action, look forward for the 
consummation of the great work leading to the Mediterranean 
of the Future, where the Pacific, far exceeding the Mediterranean 
of the Past, leads to a nation of freemen, not serfs and slaves, 
bigots and despots. In the days of the Conquest, Cortes and 
his followers looked on the Pacific as the famed Indian Ocean, 



356 NICARAGUA. 

Studded witti golden islands and teeming with the rich trea- 
sures of the East. 

The Telegraph and Rail-Road will, in my opinion, advance 
us as a nation, in the present century, beyond the dreaming 
fantasies of the wildest enthusiasts, and with Protection upon 
our Minds as well as upon our Banner, our "Victory is assured. 
San Francisco is already in telegraphic communication with 
"Utah Territory. A line extends to Geneva in Carson Yalley, 
and it will be carried to Salt Lake ; there connecting Salt 
Lake City with our Western telegraphic limits, we shall have 
a working communication from San Francisco to Washington, 
and thence to all our Eastern Cities. 

The advantages to the United States, in point of distance 
from Canton and Calcutta, per the proposed ISTicaragua Ship 
Canal Route, must strike the reader. From England to 
Canton via the Canal, is fifteen thousand eight hundred miles, 
while by the Cape of Good Hope it is only fifteen thousand 
six hundred. From New York via the latter, to the same 
port, seventeen thousand one hundred, but by the former, only 
twelve thousand six hundred miles. From England to Cal- 
cutta via the Cape of Good Hope, thirteen thousand five hun- 
dred miles, and via the Canal, seventeen thousand four hun- 
dred. From New York to the same, by the former route, fif- 
teen thousand miles, and per the latter, fourteen thousand. 

By the best present route, Great Britain enjoys an advan- 



ENGLAND VERSUS THE UNITED STATES. 357 

tage in distance to the Asiatic ports of seventeen hundred 
miles, while, should the Canal ever be perfected, there will be 
a gain in favor of the United States of three thousand miles — 
an average of fifteen to twenty-two days. From England to 
Valparaiso per the Cape of Good Hope, nine thousand one 
hundred and thirty miles, while New York is^ ten thousand 
three hundred and sixty ; but via the Canal, England would 
be eight thousand five hundred, and New York only five thou- 
sand five hundred miles. Again : From England to Callao, 
by the Cape, ten thousand six hundred miles ; New York per 
the same, twelve thousand one hundred, while by the Canal 
we find the distance from England only seven thousand miles, 
and from New York four thousand. 

The Sandwich Islands from England, are fourteen thousand 
five hundred miles per the Cape ; from New York, sixteen 
thousand. Via the Canal, the distance would be from the 
former, eight thousand five hundred miles, and from New 
York five thousand five hundred. Will our nation seize these 
presented advantages, and in concert with others, consummate 
the proposed Ship Canal, or will we concentrate capital ex- 
clusively upon our own domain, and speed the Grand Central 
Kail-Road, which shall connect the children now scattered from 
the maternal side, yet seeking protection ? 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

HOW THE CASTILIAN CONQUEST WAS ACHIEVED — THE ROMANCE OF THE FIF- 
TEENTH CENTURY — CAPITAL OP THE QUICHE KINGDOM — LAS CASAS IN GUA- 
TEMALA — CONFLICTING OPINIONS AMONG AUTHORS — AVHOSE SHALL WE ACCEPT? 

, THE PAST AND PRESENT OF MEXICO — SENATOR HOUSTON'S PROPOSITION 

WHAT BRANTZ MAYER SAYS — WHAT THE ABBE MOLINA SAYS — WANT OF 

CONFIDENCE ILLUSTRATED — NICARAGUA AS IT IS — WHAT PRESCOTT SAYS 

WHAT SPAIN WAS UNDER FERDINAND AND ISABEL — WHAT SHE IS NOW 

CAUSES OF A nation's RISE OR FALL — DESTINY OF THE UNITED STATES — ONE 
OF WEALTH AND UNIVERSAL REDEMPTION. 

The Conquest was achieved by the Castilians, aided by rival 
factions of the countries whose shores the invaders sought ; 
the Tlascalaus, who had been subdued in the onset, by Cortes, 
proved allies subsequently, in the hour of need, without the 
aid of whom, his followers must have perished, as would those 
of Pizarro unsustained by national reinforcements. The 
Aztecs and Peruvians disunited, fell victims to those, who 
with superior weapons, and skilled in warfare, whether in field 
(358) 



ROMANCE OF THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY. 359 

or ambusli, felt their superiority ; and who kindled anew, at 
every advance, the smouldering fires of discord and hate. 

The romantic history of the Incas and Aztecas, possesses an 
interest which flooding years neither erase nor dim. The 
question of the early independence of Guatemala, Don 
Domingo Juarros has especially defended with marked zeal 
and ability ; he has adduced arguments to prove that it was 
never subjected to the Mexican sovereigns, although at the 
same time acknowledging, "that a considerable emigration 
took place from Mexico at a very early period." While 
Cortes was engaged in his wars in the latter, civil war was 
raging in Guatemala, between two of the most powerful 
nations of the Province, the Kachiquels and Zutugils. The 
fame of Cortes having reached this country, the King of the 
Kachiquels sent deputies to him, asking his aid, and offering 
submission to Spain. Pedro Alvarado, with three hundred 
Spaniards and a large force of Mexican allies, were sent, 
arriving in the beginning of the year 1524, when they com- 
menced an attack upon the Quiches, the most warlike and 
numerous of the thirty tribes of the kingdom. Disorganized, 
and disunited, the different races fell under the unrelenting 
sword of Castile. 

The King of the Quiches, joined by other States, mustered 
on the Plain of Tzaccaha, two hundred and thirty-two thou- 
sand warriors, who, defended by entrenchments, and surrounded 



360 NICARAGUA. 

b}^ fosses lined with poisonous stakes, were yet completely de- 
feated in the first contest by the small army of Alvarado. The 
Spaniards pursued their advantage, and by the middle of the 
year, had subdued the entire country. The City of Utatlan, 
the Capital of the Quiche Kingdom, was said by Fuentes, to 
be indeed magnificent ; and so populous, that the king was 
enabled to draft from it ''no less than seventy -two thousand 
combatants to oppose the Spaniards." After a minute de- 
scription of the city, he says, the Grand Palace surpassed 
every other edifice, and in the opinion of Torquemada, it could 
compete with that of Montezuma, or of the Incas. 

We are compelled to forego an account in this volume of 
the early history of Guatemala the Mother of Nicaragua, who 
in the far-gone ages of the Conquest, possessed both wealth 
and civilization. Although Indians — and characterized by 
some recent authors as ignorant, cunning and deceitful — yet 
the most authentic accounts represent them otherwise, and as 
a whole much in advance of the nations surrounding them. Iii 
the variety of its languages, Guatemala presents a still more 
singular phenomenon than Mexico — twenty-five, according to 
Juarros, being still spoken. Of course the Castilian became 
the language in vogue. Philip II. ordered a correct history of 
the inhabitants while in a state of Idolatry, to be written by 
the resident Priests, which, if prepared, cannot be discovered. 
No tradition exists, which proves, or leads to the si\pposition 



CONFLICTING OPINIONS AMONG AUTHORS. 36k 

that human victims were offered to Idols. Las Casas settled in 
Guatemala iu 1530, and with meek humility, mild persuasion, 
and acts of kindness, won Vera Paz, which had bafled the 
arms of the hitherto victorious Castilians. 

Shall we, in reviewing the past of Spanish America, accept 
the statements of Botturini, Gromara, Solis, Robertson, Ber- 
nal Diaz, Clavigero, Sahagun, Ixtlilxochitl, Torquemada, and 
a host of other writers who have labored in this j&eld ? Shall 
we reject the researches of Munoz, who, by a royal edict, was 
allowed free access to the public archives, and to all libraries, 
public, private, and monastic ? Upon what shall we predicate 
our knowledge of the bygone, if we accept and reject care- 
lessly, or confine our researches only to the dim pages of a 
solitary tome ? Upon no subject do historians more widely 
differ in their views and results, than upon the early histories 
of Mexico and South America, some, relying implicitly upon 
the statements of a certain author, or set of authors ; others, 
as in the case of Prescott, principally basing their deductions 
upon Bernal Diaz ; while Judge Wilson, and others, entirely 
disregarding old authorities, hold Diaz as a counterfeit person- 
age, and his history consequently a fiction. By the former 
the Conquerors are held to be soldiers of the Holy Faith, 
glowing with religious fervor, by the latter they are considered 
as demons, who devastated the provinces of poor Indians. 
The majesty of the ancient Aztecs is denied them, and the 



362 NICARAGUA. 

whole career of Cortes and Pizarro, instead of being one of 
romantic chivalry, as depicted by Prescott, is beclouded with 
demoniac ferocity, and rendered, only as a great Indian war, 
or a succession of rapid, startling battles, waged by the expert 
and mailed warriors of the East against naked, ignorant tribes. 

Shall we credit the historian who, regardless of established 
authorities, and by an evident desire to be novel in opinion, 
now seeks to entirely subvert our romantic associations with 
the Aztec's and Incas, and to establish his own arguments, pro- 
claims Gomara, a De Foe, Bernal Diaz, a myth, De Alva, a 
magician, Boturini, Clavigero, Yeytia, and others, romancers, 
and yet what better does he proffer to sustain his sweeping 
charges against the array ? For myself, I have not ventured 
beyond historic realms, my subject only in a measure being 
linked with the Early History of the Aztecs and Peruvians. 
There was a definiteness, a fixedness in the purposes of those 
nations, which I cannot trace with any of the Indian tribes of 
the early United States. 

At the beginning of the Sixteenth century, before the arri- 
val of the Castilians, the dominion of the Aztecs " reached 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, across the continent. Under 
Ahuizotl, its arms had been carried into the farthest corners 
of Gruatemala and Nicaragua.'' Their form of goverumeut, 
pursuits, and mode of life, differed materially from mere 
Indians ; in fmo, tliough in some respects similar, in the aggre- 



SENATOR HOUSTON'S PROPOSITION. 3G3 

gate there appears to me to have been more of intellect in the 
Aztec in those remote ages, than has ever been discovered 
since amid the tribes whom modern writers assimilate, and 
with whom they identify them. Prescott, from a mass of manu- 
scripts, has produced his Conquest of Mexico as perfect as the 
student could desire. He has carefully weighed each authority 
adduced, and when conflicting testimonies presented themselves, 
has invariably scrutinized the positions of the authors, their 
motives, their inducements to miscalculate and mislead, and 
has decided impartially. 

Grovernments, revered by their subjects, would have with- 
stood successfully the feeble arrays brought against them ; but 
foes without, leagued with traitors within, accelerated the 
ruin of the "ill-compacted fabrics." Succeeding generations 
mourn successive turmoils, and the Mexican of the Present, 
witnesses or participates in kindred revolutions, allied to one 
faction or the other, who, in turns, hail with enthusiasm a 
Despotism or a Republic. Like the French, they have had 
both, and still like the former, they have saddened, sickened, 
and revolted under each. They refuse to be devoured by a 
lion, but are being gnawed piecemeal by rats. 

The proposition of Senator Houston, of a Protectorate over 
Mexico, which was received with levity when broached, now 
hath its weight. Shall we interfere to protect bands of ban- 
ditti from ruthlessly murdering each other upon our own con- 



364 NICARAGUA. 

fines ? Have we the riglit to prevent continual warfare on 
our continent and in our midst ? Must all intercourse, politi- 
cal and commercial, be suddenly broken, that the conflicting 
parties may deluge the land in blood, and yearly lessen the 
national revenues? Already do our claims urge Executive 
attention. Shall their justice be deferred and denied, and 
shall we supinely mark the total prostration of Mexico's pros- 
perity, assured of her future inability to discharge our claims, 
if she is thus periodically revolutionized, and not demand a 
cessation of hostilities, or a guaranty against bankruptcy? 
Is it not our right to have one or the other ? Shall we pur- 
chase this ulcerous demesne, and thus assume its sovereignty, 
or shall we occupy the territory as security for our just debt ? 
Will foreign powers interpose, as in the question of the pur- 
chase of Cuba, and shall they dictate, even to the possessor, 
the propriety of disposing of its wares ? Is Spain no longer 
independent ? Is she, as well as Mexico, wards of the European 
powers, and shall we have the Mosquito protectorate attempted 
again ? 

Brantz Mayer, in " Mexico as it was and as it is," remarks, 
"Nations habituated to be ruled for centuries, cannot rule 
themselves in a minute." And again ; " Agriculture must be 
cherished, and farmers made to elevate themselves in society, 
to become rich by their toil, and cultivated by study. The 
mechanical class must become ambitious of being something 



WHAT THE ABBE MOLINA SAYS. 365 

more than the mere servant of tlie capitalist's wants." And again 
he adds : " It has been a difficult thing to make the Mexicans 
believe that they possessed any other kind of wealth but money 
or mines." The same author also observes: " The lesson of 
chicanery and corruption taught to its colony by old Spain, 
through her injustice and oppression, became ^ principle of 
action, and duplicity was raised to the rank of virtue." 

Abbe Molina in his History of Chili, remarks in relation to 
the valleys of the Andes : " The vegetation here is more luxu- 
riant and vigorous, and the animals larger and stronger than 
in the other parts of the country ; but as the people who in- 
habit this district are Nomades or herdsmen, and in reality 
cultivate nothing, it is difficult to determine with precision the 
degree of their fertility." The constant demand upon those, 
who cultivate agriculture, in time of war, in all Spanish 
Countries or Provinces, has been the chief drawback in the 
development of the naturally rich soil. In Nicaragua, the 
mules are taken summarily from the cart and field, and 
*' pressed" with the driver into the ranks. The Indigo plan- 
tations, upon which much lab or and capital have been expended, 
are abandoned, and the crop and the estate left entirely at the 
mercy of marauders and the elements. 

With the Spaniard, the farmer has no caste, save in the light 
of a laborer. The adventurer, who magnanimously proffers 
his services to the State as a soldier, is received with pomp 



366 NICARAGUA. 

and parade, while he who would develop the resources of the 
country is looked upon with distrust, or only causes a ripple 
upon the surface of national attention. As an illustration, I 
offered certain information relative to the establishment of a 
Mint in Granada. There being none in Nicaragua, and the 
currency being chiefly Costa Rican, or that of the United 
States, I had expected that my proposition would receive 
attention. " The idea," I was answered, "was good, but who 
should be the Director ?" I at once perceived the want of con- 
fidence prevalent, and of course discontinued my negotiations. 
At all times, Capital can be enlisted in Spanish districts for 
the development of minerales, but it is impossible to raise any 
wherewith to consummate an agricultural operation, predicated, 
certainly, upon results less fickle and unstable. 

As I have observed, in the former part of this work, a 
grazier in the Chontales district could amass a speedy fortune ; 
yet it is extremely difficult to find even a tolerable horse or 
mule, and if found, the price desired is very extravagant. 
Beef is scarce in the market, and the little to be had, tough 
and lean, yet the abundant herds lowing over the green moun- 
tains, and through the fertile vales, justify my assertion, that 
to an American, life would here pass as a pleasant dream, and 
fortune be easily accessible. No stately modern structures 
pierce the sky in Nicaragua, no grand aqueducts, or macad- 
amized roads, have been constructed by the modern Aztec ; 



WHAT PRESCOTT SAYS. 36t 

the plains are as the race of old left them ; no added pyramids, 
palaces or temples, yet the same Sun glows on the same hills, 
over the same savannahs ; but the present race are broken in 
energy, they shrink from foreign contact, they are content in 
gazing mournfully upon the wrecks about them, and they 
dream, poetically, of the Past, and sigh for the grandeur of 
the era of Montezuma. 

Prescott, in his '' Conquest of Mexico," remarks in relation 
to the Mexicans of the present compared with the ancient 
race : '' The difference is not so great as between the ancient 
Greek and his degenerate descendant, lounging among the 
master-pieces of Art, which he has scarcely taste enough to 
admire — speaking the language of those still more imperishable 
monuments of literature which he has hardly capacity to com- 
prehend." And again: ''The same blood flows in his veins 
that flowed in theirs. But ages of tyranny have passed over 
him — he belongs to a conquered race." The panegyrics of 
Sonnini and Eaton have led us astray, no doubt, on this sub- 
ject, while Thornton and De Pauw have debased the Greeks. 
If they, the Mexicans and IS'icaraguans, may never be truly 
independent, may they not be subjects, or citizens, without 
being slaves ? 

The Jews, and the Catholic peasantry of Ireland, suffer 
moral and physical ills — they live, struggling against truth — 
Are they vicious ? If so, is it not in self-defense ? Is the 



368 NICARAGUA. 

Nicaraguan accustomed to gentleness from the outside world ? 
His Atlantic sea-board occupied by England, Ms town of 
San Juan del Norte taken from him, and even its old name 
whitewashed or greywashed into the very English one of 
Greytown. Tigre Island once summarily occupied. Buccaneers 
and Fillibusters invading his home, is he to be thankful for 
these foreign invaders, and grateful for the introduction of such 
elements ? Dogs, oft-beaten, snap at the fingers that casually 
caress them, and to the journalist who abuses, the traveler who 
misquotes and decries, and the foe who plunders and destroys 
them, the Nicaraguan and Mexican are to return a Laus Deo I 
Although they are divided, dismembered, they have Hope — 
the future will determine whence it tends. 

The flag which waved over the throne of Isabel I. is less 
haughty, and flaunts over a shorn territory now under the 
reign of Isabel II. Under the enterprising regime of the 
former, Spain occupied an eighth part of the known world, its 
inhabitants numbering seventy millions, and its dimensions 
comprising a space of eight hundred thousand square miles. 
Of this vast domain, more than two-thirds have been lost. 
In 1565, the Isle of Malta was given up to the Order of St. 
John. In 1620, the Lower Navarre and Bearne were yielded 
to France, and in 1649, the Kousselon. In 1640 she lost 
Portugal and her colonies. In 1648 she recognized the 
sovereignty of the Netherlands. In 1626, the English wrested 



SPAIN AS SHE WAS. 369 

from her the Barbadoes; in 1665, Jamaica; in 1T04, Gibraltar ; 
in 1U8, the Luccas; in 1Y59, Dominica; and in lT9t, Trini- 
dad. In the seventeenth century, France took possession of 
Martinico, New Grenada, Guadaloupe, and the half of the 
Isle of San Domingo, and in 1800, Louisiana. 

In the eighteenth century she yielded up Sardinia to the 
Duke of Savoy, and to Morocco her rights on Mazalquivir and 
Oran. She ceded to Princes of the House of Bourbon, 
Parma, Placencia, and Lucca, with other dominions in the 
north of Italy, and in 1159, Naples and Sicily were emanci- 
pated from her government. In 1819, Florida was sold to 
the United States ; in 1821 she lost her half of the Isle of 
San Domingo ; and before 1825, all the vast continent which 
her ancestors had acquired by chivalrous conquest, was 
alienated forever. Of all her past immense power, what re- 
mains ? Her African possessions, the Philippines, Porto Rico, 
and the Isles of Cuba, The Antilles comprise nearly all of 
her ancient empire in the New World. 

At no period in her national existence did she occupy a 
more haughty position than under the reign of Ferdinand and 
Isabella. We find, in reverting to her history, that this was 
truly a warlike regime ; then Charles I. the era of the soldier ; 
under Philip 11. the cowl and toga; then the Bourbons, 
courtiers, ribboned and starred ; and again the soldier in 
Ferdinand YII. Her succeeding eras have been devoid of 
24 



StO NICARAGUA. 

enlightened diplomats, marked by no generous spirit, but 
rather by the vacillating policy of yore, and a settled aversion 
to" the introduction of improvements which, encouraged by 
other nations, have rendered Old Castile but a third-rate 
power in our century. Engineers, picks, shovels, railways, 
steam-engines, and the various paraphernalia of material de- 
velopment, have now commenced the grand work of restora- 
tion, and her Future, may be yet as glorious as her Past has 
been chivalrous and brilliant. 

Unnecessary expansion weakens States as well as individ- 
uals. Nations may develop themselves too suddenly ; but by 
amassing their energies, their wealth, and by innate cultiva- 
tion, by the proper protection of national interests, they will 
strengthen themselves, rendering the citizen a soldier at the ■ 
approach of war, a producer in the calm hours of peace and 
prosperity. That country which imports to flatter idle tastes, 
or gratify popular vanities, cannot, in the hour of peril, expect 
heroes in her pampered populace. When the tocsin hath 
sounded, she discovers, too late, that the rank and file are 
indeed degenerate, while the leaders are, at best, but bevies 
of lute-voiced orators, improvident with cologne, but averse 
to powder I 

The well-adjusted fabric of our Republic can stand the 
wear and tear of bomb and expletive, and our hardy pioneers 
are already well-nigh on the Pacific bulwarks. Mexico profits 



THE DESTINY OF THE UNITED STATES. 3*1 I 

not from the Past I Will Nicaragua ? If not, her shattered 
wreck will strew the waters, and the coming of Montezuma 
will indeed remain a traditional echo — a hope — while the 
Anglo-Saxons, ripe with energy and intelligence, will people 
the arid plains, and rescue the minerales from oblivion. Were 
the Ship Canal through Nicaragua, and the Pacific Railroad 
from our East to the West completed, what would be the 
destiny of the United States ? Her Pacific borders would re- 
sound with commerce — thrift on the mountains — wealth in the 
valleys — and from the fastnesses of her northwesternmost 
stations long trains of mules would wend, laden with gold, to 
barter for the silks of the Indies, the spices of the Orient, the 
velvets of Genoa, the embroideries of France, the wines of Spain 
and Portugal, the cutlery of England, and the manufactures 
of thorough Europe. Within the Constantinople of the 
Americas, the turbaned Turk would display his gems and per- 
fumes, and the dark Asiatic his ivory and cachmeres. The 
mines of Mexico would here find vent, and to the Castilian, 
who, of yore, deemed that land alone desirable which teemed 
with gold and gems, our remote possessions would prove El 
Paraiso regained. 

The intervening and neifghboring domains, sooner or later, 
will imitate, if they do not merge. 'Tis the reason we would 
conquer — Step by step we shall advance, surely if slowly. — 
Not by violence is the great battle to be won, the prize to be 



3 [2 ' NICARAGUA. 

gained. We shall stand upon the entire length of the Pacific 
shore, permanently, moral victors, potent, vigorous, and happy, 
not as blood-stained Conquerors, urged forward by rapino 
and false glory. Already Commerce throngs the Gulf of 
California — the waves of the Sea of Cortes ripple under our 
keels, bearing us onward to a peaceful and glorious Conquest. 
However high the storms may dash the warring waves, true 
to her purpose will our gallant Ship of State ride the billows, 
and anchor where the Sun smiles in his decline, upon the 
Mediterranean of the Occident. Where the gonfalon of 
Spain, as Prescott beautifully renders it, "romantic Spain, 
the land where the light of Chivalry lingered longest above 
the horizon," once waved in haughty triumph, the flags of 
vigorously competing nations will flaunt, as Commerce, with 
her votaries, sweeps steadily on, intent upon a destiny of 
wealth and universal redemption. 



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